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'95 Accord: Keyless Entry Install
Hi all. I'm contemplating installing a keyless entry system on my '95
Accord. Nothing fancy, just the remote lock/unlock system. Does anyone know how hard it is for a home mechanic to install one? It has standard power locks and I have Haynes and Chiltons manuals for the car. Also, any recommendations as which system to get, and where to get it? The local car stereo shop wants $150 for one installed and I'm trying to save installation costs (so I can pay it to the gas station @ $2.65 a gallon ). Thanks for any help. Ray |
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WaterWatcher wrote:
> Hi all. I'm contemplating installing a keyless entry system on my '95 > Accord. Nothing fancy, just the remote lock/unlock system. Does anyone > know how hard it is for a home mechanic to install one? It has standard > power locks and I have Haynes and Chiltons manuals for the car. Also, any > recommendations as which system to get, and where to get it? The local car > stereo shop wants $150 for one installed and I'm trying to save installation > costs (so I can pay it to the gas station @ $2.65 a gallon ). > > Thanks for any help. > > Ray ----------------------- WalMart has really cheap ones, assuming you're in North America . . . 'Curly' |
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"motsco_ _" <"motsco_ > wrote in message ... > WaterWatcher wrote: >> Hi all. I'm contemplating installing a keyless entry system on my '95 >> Accord. Nothing fancy, just the remote lock/unlock system. Does anyone >> know how hard it is for a home mechanic to install one? It has standard >> power locks and I have Haynes and Chiltons manuals for the car. Also, >> any recommendations as which system to get, and where to get it? The >> local car stereo shop wants $150 for one installed and I'm trying to save >> installation costs (so I can pay it to the gas station @ $2.65 a >> gallon ). >> >> Thanks for any help. >> >> Ray > > > ----------------------- > > WalMart has really cheap ones, assuming you're in North America . . . > Yes, I'm near a Wally World. Any clues as to how hard they are to install? Thanks, Ray |
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Not sure if your car already has power locks?
My 98 Civic didn't and I installed aftermarket lock actuators. You just need to find where the wires for the lock actuators go, and splice them into the unit as per instructions. For me, I just wired the lock actuators into my alarm (aftermarket) and the guy who did the alarm put in an extra relay to control them. Sorry this isn't more helpful... let me know if you already have power locks. t |
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"disallow" <loewen_t at yahoo.ca @> wrote in message lkaboutautos.com... > Not sure if your car already has power locks? > > My 98 Civic didn't and I installed aftermarket > lock actuators. You just need to find where the > wires for the lock actuators go, and splice them > into the unit as per instructions. > > For me, I just wired the lock actuators into > my alarm (aftermarket) and the guy who did the > alarm put in an extra relay to control them. > > Sorry this isn't more helpful... let me know if > you already have power locks. > Yes, I already have power locks. I'm just looking to add the remote control function. Thanks for the help. Ray |
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"WaterWatcher" > wrote in message
... > >> > Yes, I already have power locks. I'm just looking to add the remote > control function. > Thanks for the help. Factory power lock wires can be found in the bundle of wires behind the drivers side kick panel. IIRC, 20ga white and lt blue are the 2 wires. |
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WaterWatcher wrote:
> > Hi all. I'm contemplating installing a keyless entry system on my '95 > Accord. Nothing fancy, just the remote lock/unlock system. Does anyone > know how hard it is for a home mechanic to install one? It has standard > power locks and I have Haynes and Chiltons manuals for the car. It is not hard to do, I put keyless entry in a friend's '96 Accord (4 door, don't remember what trim level) a few years back. That car already had power locks, like yours. My friend is one of those guys who never allow enough time, so we only had about 2 hours and did it in the parking lot of a doughnut shop. I have done this kind of work before, and we didn't add all the bells and whistles. A few weeks later we had another 45-minute session where I hooked up the priority unlock feature and the horn. Same parking lot... I got a $40 unit (part number 330-145) from http://www.partsexpress.com, see http://tinyurl.com/3eb77. I also put one of these in my brother's VW. This unit is nice because it has on-board relays that can be configured to work with pretty much any factor power door lock system. both the installs have worked fine now for several years. The basic install gives you keyless lock and unlock with confirmation by flashing parking lights. By default, the system will lock all doors a few seconds after you turn on the ignition, but this feature can be turned off by programming. You can also connect a wire to the horn relay and get the system to give confirmation by beeping the horn. If you do connect the horn wire, the feature can be turned off by programming the system after your next door neighbor complains about the noise... With an additional relay, the system will turn on the dome light every time you use the remote to unlock the car. The dome light will turn off after 30 seconds or when you turn on the ignition, whichever comes first. This feature is not programmable, if you wire up the dome light it will always come on with when you unlock with the remote. The unit can also be wired for remote trunk release. You will need an actuator unless the car already has one, most Honda's use a cable release rather than an electrical actuator for the trunk. A relay is also needed. There is an option to add a starter cut relay. If the car was locked with the remote, the starter cut relay will prevent the starter from engaging until you unlock the car with the remote. If you lock with the remote and unlock with the key (or break the window), the car will not start. I did not install this option, I think of it more as a hassle than security. Any would-be thief worth his crow bar will easily hot-wire around the starter-cut relay. Note that the wiring diagram for the starter cut relay is wrong in the instructions that came with the keyless entry system. Lastly, the system can be wired so that only the driver's door unlocks on the first press of the button, the rest of the doors unlock on the second press of the button. All doors will always lock on the first press of the lock button. The wires for this setup are already in your car, but you will need to open up the driver's door to install a relay (not a big deal at all). If you opt for a basic installation initially, you can add this feature later with minimal rewiring. I mounted the control unit under the dash on the driver's side. I used tie wraps to mount the control unit to a fat wire harness. The unit is light weight, so no worries about super secure mounting. To get access, remove the coin pocket and unscrew the screw located inside the coin pocket opening. Then pry out the lower dash cover, it is mounted with clips and that one screw. Then remove the sheet metal knee bolster, one bolt in each corner, then lift up and pull towards you. Be careful when removing the bolts on the right hand side, I dropped one and it ended up deep inside the center console. You can see details of the cover / bolster removal if you go to http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/.../16659_01.html This is a very useful reference, many of the things you need to do are described here. Honda has been nice enough to provide options connectors in the fuse box on your Accord. See http://www.geocities.com/ng_randolph...ons_accord.pdf for a drawing of the fuse box in the 94-97 Accord. These connectors are infinitely useful when installing keyless entry, alarms and other good stuff. The function of each connector is as follows: Options connector "A" has battery voltage with the ignition switch in "ACC" and "RUN" but not "START". You will not need options connector "A". "B" has battery voltage with the ignition switch in "RUN" but not "START". The keyless remote system calls for a connection that is live in both "START" and "RUN", but unless you are connecting the starter cut relay (again, I wouldn't bother) you can safely use options connector "B" for your ignition switched power. "B" already has a 7.5 Amp fuse, so no absolute need to provide your own in-line fuse. "C" is connected to the parking lights. The keyless remote receiver can flash the parking lights to confirm locking and unlocking. The parking lights wire from the keyless entry can be connected directly to options connector "C". Inline fuse already provided. "D" has battery voltage at all times, fused only with a 50 Amp fuse in the under-hood fuse box. Connect the constant power lead from the keyless entry system here. You need an in-line fuse which the wiring harness for the PartsEspress unit already has. To connect to to options connectors, regular 1/4" quick-connects work fine. See http://tinyurl.com/2zpux There are two ways to connect to the power door lock system. someone else suggested tapping in to the wires to the lock actuators. This works, and in some cars is your only option. It is better to connect to the control wires for the power locks rather than the actuator wires, and in the Accord the control wires are already made available for this. See point 20 in the instructions at hondaautomotiveparts. For a basic install, you will need only two of those three wires, ORN for unlock, BLK/WHT for lock. When taping into the car wires, most people use wire taps like http://tinyurl.com/ac5un. They work fine, but you have no easy way of disconnecting your own wiring from the car. I like to use on of these http://tinyurl.com/afr9j snapped onto the factory wire. Then I put one of these http://tinyurl.com/cbrdh on my own wire, and plug the two together. It is a very snug and secure fit, but it can be unplugged should there be a need. So, for a wiring summary, assuming you do not use the priority unlock featu Wire color in keyless entry harness Connects to 1. BLACK Body Ground 2. RED Options connector "D" 3. WHITE Options connector "C" 4. VIOLET Body Ground 5. BLUE/BLACK ORANGE, car lock harness 6. BROWN/BLACK Not used. Tape off 7. VIOLET/BLACK Body Ground 8. GREEN/BLACK BLACK/WHITE, car lock harness 9. WHITE/BLACK Not used. Tape off 10. ORANGE Not used. Tape off 11. BLACK/YELLOW Not used. Tape off 12. GRAY Not used. Tape off 13. BROWN/WHITE LIGHT GREEN/ BLUE wire by horn relay 14. BLUE/WHITE Not used. Tape off 15. YELLOW Options Connector "B" Should you want the dome light feature, get a relay like http://tinyurl.com/34457. BLACK/YELLOW wire from keyless unit to terminal 86 of the relay (numbers stamped on bottom of relay), terminal 30 to body ground, terminal 85 to options connector "D" using 10 Amp in-line fuse and terminal 87 to the dome light wire. This is going to be a pain, you need the BLACK/WHITE wire that goes between the dome light and the instrument cluster. You can not use the wires to the door switches, as this will cause a "door open" alarm and (if using the driver's door switch) a headlights on alarm during the 30 seconds the keyless entry unit turns on the dome light. Should you want to wire it with the priority unlock feature, let me know and I'll post the wiring for that too. |
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Wow, Randolph! What a great writeup! Thanks for taking the time for
helping me out. I have some replies and questions inline: "Randolph" > wrote in message ... > WaterWatcher wrote: >> >> Hi all. I'm contemplating installing a keyless entry system on my '95 >> Accord. Nothing fancy, just the remote lock/unlock system. Does anyone >> know how hard it is for a home mechanic to install one? It has standard >> power locks and I have Haynes and Chiltons manuals for the car. > > It is not hard to do, I put keyless entry in a friend's '96 Accord (4 > door, don't remember what trim level) a few years back. That car already > had power locks, like yours. My friend is one of those guys who never > allow enough time, so we only had about 2 hours and did it in the > parking lot of a doughnut shop. I have done this kind of work before, > and we didn't add all the bells and whistles. A few weeks later we had > another 45-minute session where I hooked up the priority unlock feature > and the horn. Same parking lot... > > I got a $40 unit (part number 330-145) from http://www.partsexpress.com, > see http://tinyurl.com/3eb77. I also put one of these in my brother's > VW. This unit is nice because it has on-board relays that can be > configured to work with pretty much any factor power door lock system. > both the installs have worked fine now for several years. This unit looks like what I want. > > The basic install gives you keyless lock and unlock with confirmation by > flashing parking lights. By default, the system will lock all doors a > few seconds after you turn on the ignition, but this feature can be > turned off by programming. > > You can also connect a wire to the horn relay and get the system to give > confirmation by beeping the horn. If you do connect the horn wire, the > feature can be turned off by programming the system after your next door > neighbor complains about the noise... > It's my wife's car, and she likes that feature, so I'll want to include it. > With an additional relay, the system will turn on the dome light every > time you use the remote to unlock the car. The dome light will turn off > after 30 seconds or when you turn on the ignition, whichever comes > first. This feature is not programmable, if you wire up the dome light > it will always come on with when you unlock with the remote. > > The unit can also be wired for remote trunk release. You will need an > actuator unless the car already has one, most Honda's use a cable > release rather than an electrical actuator for the trunk. A relay is > also needed. It's an Accord wagon, so it has a power lock for the tailgate. I need an additional relay for that? > There is an option to add a starter cut relay. If the car was locked > with the remote, the starter cut relay will prevent the starter from > engaging until you unlock the car with the remote. If you lock with the > remote and unlock with the key (or break the window), the car will not > start. I did not install this option, I think of it more as a hassle > than security. Any would-be thief worth his crow bar will easily > hot-wire around the starter-cut relay. Note that the wiring diagram for > the starter cut relay is wrong in the instructions that came with the > keyless entry system. I think I will take your advice and not install this. > Lastly, the system can be wired so that only the driver's door unlocks > on the first press of the button, the rest of the doors unlock on the > second press of the button. All doors will always lock on the first > press of the lock button. The wires for this setup are already in your > car, but you will need to open up the driver's door to install a relay > (not a big deal at all). If you opt for a basic installation initially, > you can add this feature later with minimal rewiring. I would like to add this perhaps later. I'll just do the basic install now and see how that goes before tackling anything more complicated. > I mounted the control unit under the dash on the driver's side. I used > tie wraps to mount the control unit to a fat wire harness. The unit is > light weight, so no worries about super secure mounting. To get access, > remove the coin pocket and unscrew the screw located inside the coin > pocket opening. Then pry out the lower dash cover, it is mounted with > clips and that one screw. Then remove the sheet metal knee bolster, one > bolt in each corner, then lift up and pull towards you. Be careful when > removing the bolts on the right hand side, I dropped one and it ended up > deep inside the center console. You can see details of the cover / > bolster removal if you go to > http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/.../16659_01.html > This is a very useful reference, many of the things you need to do are > described here. > > Honda has been nice enough to provide options connectors in the fuse box > on your Accord. See > http://www.geocities.com/ng_randolph...ons_accord.pdf for a > drawing of the fuse box in the 94-97 Accord. These connectors are > infinitely useful when installing keyless entry, alarms and other good > stuff. The function of each connector is as follows: > > Options connector "A" has battery voltage with the ignition switch in > "ACC" and "RUN" but not "START". You will not need options connector > "A". > > "B" has battery voltage with the ignition switch in "RUN" but not > "START". The keyless remote system calls for a connection that is live > in both "START" and "RUN", but unless you are connecting the starter cut > relay (again, I wouldn't bother) you can safely use options connector > "B" for your ignition switched power. "B" already has a 7.5 Amp fuse, so > no absolute need to provide your own in-line fuse. > > "C" is connected to the parking lights. The keyless remote receiver can > flash the parking lights to confirm locking and unlocking. The parking > lights wire from the keyless entry can be connected directly to options > connector "C". Inline fuse already provided. > > "D" has battery voltage at all times, fused only with a 50 Amp fuse in > the under-hood fuse box. Connect the constant power lead from the > keyless entry system here. You need an in-line fuse which the wiring > harness for the PartsEspress unit already has. > > To connect to to options connectors, regular 1/4" quick-connects work > fine. See http://tinyurl.com/2zpux > > There are two ways to connect to the power door lock system. someone > else suggested tapping in to the wires to the lock actuators. This > works, and in some cars is your only option. It is better to connect to > the control wires for the power locks rather than the actuator wires, > and in the Accord the control wires are already made available for this. > See point 20 in the instructions at hondaautomotiveparts. For a basic > install, you will need only two of those three wires, ORN for unlock, > BLK/WHT for lock. I'm a little confused here. Step 20 says something about plugging the connector marked E into the fuse box. Is that what you mean by point 20? Are the ORN and BLK/WHT wires there? > When taping into the car wires, most people use wire taps like > http://tinyurl.com/ac5un. They work fine, but you have no easy way of > disconnecting your own wiring from the car. I like to use on of these > http://tinyurl.com/afr9j snapped onto the factory wire. Then I put one > of these http://tinyurl.com/cbrdh on my own wire, and plug the two > together. It is a very snug and secure fit, but it can be unplugged > should there be a need. > > So, for a wiring summary, assuming you do not use the priority unlock > featu > > Wire color > in keyless > entry harness Connects to > > 1. BLACK Body Ground > 2. RED Options connector "D" > 3. WHITE Options connector "C" > 4. VIOLET Body Ground > 5. BLUE/BLACK ORANGE, car lock harness > 6. BROWN/BLACK Not used. Tape off > 7. VIOLET/BLACK Body Ground > 8. GREEN/BLACK BLACK/WHITE, car lock harness > 9. WHITE/BLACK Not used. Tape off > 10. ORANGE Not used. Tape off > 11. BLACK/YELLOW Not used. Tape off > 12. GRAY Not used. Tape off > 13. BROWN/WHITE LIGHT GREEN/ BLUE wire by horn relay > 14. BLUE/WHITE Not used. Tape off > 15. YELLOW Options Connector "B" > > Should you want the dome light feature, get a relay like > http://tinyurl.com/34457. BLACK/YELLOW wire from keyless unit to > terminal 86 of the relay (numbers stamped on bottom of relay), terminal > 30 to body ground, terminal 85 to options connector "D" using 10 Amp > in-line fuse and terminal 87 to the dome light wire. This is going to be > a pain, you need the BLACK/WHITE wire that goes between the dome light > and the instrument cluster. You can not use the wires to the door > switches, as this will cause a "door open" alarm and (if using the > driver's door switch) a headlights on alarm during the 30 seconds the > keyless entry unit turns on the dome light. The dome light feature would be nice but perhaps is not worth the trouble. > Should you want to wire it with the priority unlock feature, let me know > and I'll post the wiring for that too. I'd like to eventually add this but I'll probably just start with the basic lock/unlock/flash lights/blow horn/ and perhaps unlock the rear hatch too. Sounds like I need to order the unit itself, the connectors you suggested, and a relay for the rear hatch? Anything else I'll need? Several hours of my time and a trip to the chiropractor? ;-) Thanks again Randolph. I really appreciate it! Ray |
#9
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WaterWatcher wrote: > I have some replies and questions inline: > > The unit can also be wired for remote trunk release. You will need an > > actuator unless the car already has one, most Honda's use a cable > > release rather than an electrical actuator for the trunk. A relay is > > also needed. > > It's an Accord wagon, so it has a power lock for the tailgate. I need an > additional relay for that? Yes, a relay is needed. http://tinyurl.com/34457 will do the job. Terminal 86 goes to the gray wire in the remote entry wire harness. Terminal 85 goes to options connector "D", terminal 87 goes to the wire that leads to the tail gate actuator. I don't have the wiring diagram for the wagon, so I don't know the wire color. Most likely one side of the tail gate actuator is connected to ground, the other side to +12V through a switch or relay. If this is the case, terminal 30 of your relay should connect to options connector "D". Haynes will have the wiring diagram for the wagon so you can find out how it is wired and what wire colors to look for. > > There are two ways to connect to the power door lock system. someone > > else suggested tapping in to the wires to the lock actuators. This > > works, and in some cars is your only option. It is better to connect to > > the control wires for the power locks rather than the actuator wires, > > and in the Accord the control wires are already made available for this. > > See point 20 in the instructions at hondaautomotiveparts. For a basic > > install, you will need only two of those three wires, ORN for unlock, > > BLK/WHT for lock. > > I'm a little confused here. Step 20 says something about plugging the > connector marked E into the fuse box. Is that what you mean by point 20? > Are the ORN and BLK/WHT wires there? My mistake, I was looking at a the '96 instructions, not the '95 ones. Point 21 is what you want. This difference is kind of a bummer; The '95 was /not/ pre-wired for the priority unlock feature (driver's door only on first button press). If you want the priority unlock feature you will have to pull a new wire into the door. That /can/ be done, but is kind of a pain. > > Should you want the dome light feature, get a relay like > > http://tinyurl.com/34457. BLACK/YELLOW wire from keyless unit to > > terminal 86 of the relay (numbers stamped on bottom of relay), terminal > > 30 to body ground, terminal 85 to options connector "D" using 10 Amp > > in-line fuse and terminal 87 to the dome light wire. This is going to be > > a pain, you need the BLACK/WHITE wire that goes between the dome light > > and the instrument cluster. You can not use the wires to the door > > switches, as this will cause a "door open" alarm and (if using the > > driver's door switch) a headlights on alarm during the 30 seconds the > > keyless entry unit turns on the dome light. > The dome light feature would be nice but perhaps is not worth the trouble. While you have the lower dash cover off, poke around in there. You might just find the wire you need. The wires from the dome light should come down along or inside the driver's side A-pillar. Do you have a sun/moon roof? > > Should you want to wire it with the priority unlock feature, let me know > > and I'll post the wiring for that too. > > I'd like to eventually add this but I'll probably just start with the basic > lock/unlock/flash lights/blow horn/ and perhaps unlock the rear hatch too. As mentioned above, that feature would be quite a bit more work to implement on the '95 than it was on the '96. > Sounds like I need to order the unit itself, the connectors you suggested, > and a relay for the rear hatch? Anything else I'll need? Several hours of > my time and a trip to the chiropractor? ;-) I'd spring for a good crimping tool. The style you find in most auto parts stores (looks like http://tinyurl.com/8l33d) makes it very hard to do good crimps. This type: http://tinyurl.com/92mhu works really well. The only thing to keep in mind is that this tool is not symmetrical. If you look at the jaws of the tool, there are colored dots on one side next to the different size crimp slots (Usually Red, Blue and Yellow). The back side has no colored dots. You place the connector in the jaws of the tool in such a way that you insert the wire from the side with the colored dots. If you reverse this, the crimps won't hold. One last word of caution: There might be slight differences in wiring in different body styles and different model years of each generation Accord. '95 and '96 are the same generation, but some differences occur. The differences are usually pointed out in the shop manuals (Haynes, Chilton, Helm etc.) if they are significant. |
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