If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Removing crossover pipe
NickySantoro wrote: > I have to remove the two bolts that hold the crossover pipe to the > exhaust manifold in order to remove the oil pan to replace the gasket. > The bolts go through the flange and thread into the manifold. There > are no nuts on the end. > The car is a '93 Eldo 4.9 and the pipe has never been removed. > I plan to heat the manifold where the bolts come through, apply PB > Blaster several times over a couple of days, slightly tighten to try > to break it loose, then loosen. Any other technique I might try? I'm > looking to avoid snapping the bolts. If one of the bolts does snap, is > there an easy way such as a "cheater" clamp to replace the bolts to > avoid having to drill out the broken bolt ? > TIA > NS ============ ============ Sounds like you have a good understanding of getting the bolts out. The only thing I would add as a sugestion, would be to "knock the hell" out of the head of the bolt a couple times before you go giving it a twist. The technique you've posted is exactly how I take them out. I stick my socket and extension on them, then knock the hell out of the extension a couple times with a 5lb sledge to dislodge the rusted threads a bit. I don't have the luxuary in the shop of the "soak for a few days" bit, but that's only going to help you, not hurt you. Be sure not to overheat the manifold, where as the bolts themselves are weakened by the heat and shear off. Other than that, go with your plan. as to a repair......... if you're not up to drilling and tapping, there IS a repair clamp but the cost is around $30 to $40 best I remember. I HAVE used them several times in the past, but I found out over the years that it's just a time/cost thing, so now I drill and tap. The clamps resemble a small c-clamp with pointed contacts instead of pads. Call NAPA if it gets to that point. let us know how it turns out ~:~ Marsh ~:~ |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Removing crossover pipe
"Marsh Monster" > wrote in message ups.com... > > NickySantoro wrote: > > I have to remove the two bolts that hold the crossover pipe to the > > exhaust manifold in order to remove the oil pan to replace the gasket. > > The bolts go through the flange and thread into the manifold. There > > are no nuts on the end. > > The car is a '93 Eldo 4.9 and the pipe has never been removed. > > I plan to heat the manifold where the bolts come through, apply PB > > Blaster several times over a couple of days, slightly tighten to try > > to break it loose, then loosen. Any other technique I might try? I'm > > looking to avoid snapping the bolts. If one of the bolts does snap, is > > there an easy way such as a "cheater" clamp to replace the bolts to > > avoid having to drill out the broken bolt ? > > TIA > > NS > > ============ > ============ > > Sounds like you have a good understanding of getting the bolts out. > > The only thing I would add as a sugestion, would be to "knock the hell" > out of the head of the bolt a couple times before you go giving it a > twist. > The technique you've posted is exactly how I take them out. I stick my > socket and extension on them, then knock the hell out of the extension > a couple times with a 5lb sledge to dislodge the rusted threads a bit. > I don't have the luxuary in the shop of the "soak for a few days" > bit, > but that's only going to help you, not hurt you. > Be sure not to overheat the manifold, where as the bolts themselves > are weakened by the heat and shear off. Other than that, go with your > plan. > > > as to a repair......... > if you're not up to drilling and tapping, there IS a repair clamp but > the cost > is around $30 to $40 best I remember. I HAVE used them several times > in the past, but I found out over the years that it's just a time/cost > thing, > so now I drill and tap. > The clamps resemble a small c-clamp with pointed contacts instead of > pads. > Call NAPA if it gets to that point. > > > > > let us know how it turns out > > > > ~:~ > Marsh > ~:~ > If you can get to the other end of the bolts with a wire brush or cut them off it makes them a bit less likely to break off from the rust built up on the threads. Usually you get them loose and after a turn or two the rust jams them and they break. Other than that and what your already planning, it comes down to luck. If they do break Drill/Tap is the better and usually easier solution. -- Steve W. Life is not like a box of chocolates it's more like a jar of jalapenos- what you do today could burn your ass tomorrow! ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
AWA [OFFER] Sell Exhaust Flexible Pipe In Stock | [email protected] | General | 0 | November 25th 05 01:52 PM |
AWA [OFFER] Sell Exhaust Flexible Pipe In Stock | [email protected] | General | 0 | November 25th 05 01:51 PM |
Questions about Repairing My Exhaust | Julie P. | Technology | 12 | April 7th 05 09:54 PM |
pipe to pipe temp muffler fix (91 integra gs) | o. phooey | Honda | 3 | January 5th 05 03:13 PM |
pipe to pipe temp muffler fix (91 integra gs) | o. phooey | Honda | 0 | January 3rd 05 11:49 PM |