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Removing crossover pipe



 
 
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  #1  
Old April 29th 06, 05:20 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Removing crossover pipe


NickySantoro wrote:
> I have to remove the two bolts that hold the crossover pipe to the
> exhaust manifold in order to remove the oil pan to replace the gasket.
> The bolts go through the flange and thread into the manifold. There
> are no nuts on the end.
> The car is a '93 Eldo 4.9 and the pipe has never been removed.
> I plan to heat the manifold where the bolts come through, apply PB
> Blaster several times over a couple of days, slightly tighten to try
> to break it loose, then loosen. Any other technique I might try? I'm
> looking to avoid snapping the bolts. If one of the bolts does snap, is
> there an easy way such as a "cheater" clamp to replace the bolts to
> avoid having to drill out the broken bolt ?
> TIA
> NS


============
============

Sounds like you have a good understanding of getting the bolts out.

The only thing I would add as a sugestion, would be to "knock the hell"
out of the head of the bolt a couple times before you go giving it a
twist.
The technique you've posted is exactly how I take them out. I stick my
socket and extension on them, then knock the hell out of the extension
a couple times with a 5lb sledge to dislodge the rusted threads a bit.
I don't have the luxuary in the shop of the "soak for a few days"
bit,
but that's only going to help you, not hurt you.
Be sure not to overheat the manifold, where as the bolts themselves
are weakened by the heat and shear off. Other than that, go with your
plan.


as to a repair.........
if you're not up to drilling and tapping, there IS a repair clamp but
the cost
is around $30 to $40 best I remember. I HAVE used them several times
in the past, but I found out over the years that it's just a time/cost
thing,
so now I drill and tap.
The clamps resemble a small c-clamp with pointed contacts instead of
pads.
Call NAPA if it gets to that point.




let us know how it turns out



~:~
Marsh
~:~

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  #2  
Old April 29th 06, 06:15 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Removing crossover pipe


"Marsh Monster" > wrote in message
ups.com...
>
> NickySantoro wrote:
> > I have to remove the two bolts that hold the crossover pipe to the
> > exhaust manifold in order to remove the oil pan to replace the

gasket.
> > The bolts go through the flange and thread into the manifold. There
> > are no nuts on the end.
> > The car is a '93 Eldo 4.9 and the pipe has never been removed.
> > I plan to heat the manifold where the bolts come through, apply PB
> > Blaster several times over a couple of days, slightly tighten to try
> > to break it loose, then loosen. Any other technique I might try? I'm
> > looking to avoid snapping the bolts. If one of the bolts does snap,

is
> > there an easy way such as a "cheater" clamp to replace the bolts to
> > avoid having to drill out the broken bolt ?
> > TIA
> > NS

>
> ============
> ============
>
> Sounds like you have a good understanding of getting the bolts out.
>
> The only thing I would add as a sugestion, would be to "knock the

hell"
> out of the head of the bolt a couple times before you go giving it a
> twist.
> The technique you've posted is exactly how I take them out. I stick

my
> socket and extension on them, then knock the hell out of the extension
> a couple times with a 5lb sledge to dislodge the rusted threads a bit.
> I don't have the luxuary in the shop of the "soak for a few days"
> bit,
> but that's only going to help you, not hurt you.
> Be sure not to overheat the manifold, where as the bolts themselves
> are weakened by the heat and shear off. Other than that, go with

your
> plan.
>
>
> as to a repair.........
> if you're not up to drilling and tapping, there IS a repair clamp but
> the cost
> is around $30 to $40 best I remember. I HAVE used them several times
> in the past, but I found out over the years that it's just a time/cost
> thing,
> so now I drill and tap.
> The clamps resemble a small c-clamp with pointed contacts instead of
> pads.
> Call NAPA if it gets to that point.
>
>
>
>
> let us know how it turns out
>
>
>
> ~:~
> Marsh
> ~:~
>

If you can get to the other end of the bolts with a wire brush or cut
them off it makes them a bit less likely to break off from the rust
built up on the threads. Usually you get them loose and after a turn or
two the rust jams them and they break. Other than that and what your
already planning, it comes down to luck. If they do break Drill/Tap is
the better and usually easier solution.


--
Steve W.
Life is not like a box of chocolates
it's more like a jar of jalapenos-
what you do today could burn your ass tomorrow!



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