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#11
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"TeGGeR®" > wrote
Elle > > Particularly if it's the original PCV valve, I would replace it. Just > > one easy thing to eliminate. > > I fianlly replaced my original a few weeks ago. It had 14 years and 248,000 > miles on it. Didn't make a bit of difference to gas consumption or engine > running. By your own admission, you totally baby your car. > New FAQ page on that saga: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/pcv-replace/index.html Needs work. You and I continue to disagree on this. A guzillion web sites back up my (along with like every other regular's) position on this. |
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#12
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"Elle" > wrote in
nk.net: > "TeGGeR®" > wrote > Elle >> > Particularly if it's the original PCV valve, I would replace it. >> > Just one easy thing to eliminate. >> >> I fianlly replaced my original a few weeks ago. It had 14 years and > 248,000 >> miles on it. Didn't make a bit of difference to gas consumption or >> engine running. > > By your own admission, you totally baby your car. That is my point. Cars that are not taken care of are the ones that suffer from this. > >> New FAQ page on that saga: >> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/pcv-replace/index.html > > Needs work. > > You and I continue to disagree on this. A guzillion web sites back up > my (along with like every other regular's) position on this. And every working mechanic I have ever spoken to about this says exactly what I put up on that page. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#13
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5-spd...I've been thinking about checking the timing for a while, but
last time I had the engine torn apart I studied the crank pulley for a good 10 minutes in fairly good light looking for a timing mark and found nothing. Is it a paint mark? or a metal nub? I cleaned it off with some degreaser when I changed my timing belt and still couldn't find any mark. What gives? Maybe this is just related to late-80s/early-90s Civics... My 88 Toyota PU has a very obvious orange mark on the pulley and it's really easy to see. |
#14
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Bruce wrote:
> 5-spd...I've been thinking about checking the timing for a while, but > last time I had the engine torn apart I studied the crank pulley for a > good 10 minutes in fairly good light looking for a timing mark and > found nothing. > > Is it a paint mark? or a metal nub? I cleaned it off with some > degreaser when I changed my timing belt and still couldn't find any > mark. > > What gives? Maybe this is just related to late-80s/early-90s Civics... > My 88 Toyota PU has a very obvious orange mark on the pulley and it's > really easy to see. > if the pulley is rusted, it's not so easy to see, but it's a tiny cut between the alternator & a/c bands. should be painted too. you can't see it from the side - you have to look down the gap between motor & body near the l/h motor mount. |
#15
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Well, I'm going to change the PCV just because I kind of doubt the
previous owner put in an OEM Valve, IF he changed it at all. One less thing that could be causing my mileage problems, and it probably needs done anyway. But, I'd also like to check the timing... any advice on finding the timing mark on the crank pulley? I assume it's just a little dab of paint and that I'll have to put some white-out on it to make it visible with the timing light, but I can't see ANY mark on the pulley. Nada. And I need to short the contacts under the kick plate in the passenger compartment to disable the auto-timing adjustment too, right? That sounds easy enough, but if I can't find the mark on the pulley it's a moot point. Thanks guys. -Bruce |
#16
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Gotcha... should have considered that as I know you have to look down
and line up those two little pointy things on the timing belt cover to check it. A little white-out will help me see it w/ the timing light while the pulley's turning. Thanks |
#17
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"Elle" > wrote in
nk.net: > > You and I continue to disagree on this. A guzillion web sites back up > my (along with like every other regular's) position on this. > > I just tried two experiments on my own 1991 Integra just now. ----------------------------- Firstly, I tried plugging the PCV hose shut. The idle dropped momentarily, then climbed smoothly back up to 750 and remained there. When I let go of the hose, the idle surged briefly, then settled back to 750rpm. As expected, the engine management system was adjusting air flow to achieve correct idle speed. ----------------------------- Secondly, with the car fully warm, I unplugged the PCV valve hose at the pipe where it enters the intake manifold, so the PCV intake was completely open as a massive air leak into the intake downstream from throttle plate. The idle dropped momentarily, then began smoothly surging between 1,000rpm and 2,500 rpm. As expected, the engine management system, crude as it is, was attempting to adjust the mixture to be correct. The air leak being too great, however, it was unsuccessful in doing so. (Interestingly, air flow from the PCV valve itself stopped dead, suggesting that ambient air pressure was keeping the valve shut. IOW, crankcase pressure was lower than ambient.) I then plugged the PCV intake pipe with my thumb, mimicking a plugged PCV valve. The idle returned to a smooth 750rpm and stayed there. I discovered that I could uncover up to a quarter of the PCV intake pipe before the idle began surging again, the severity of the surging directly related to the amount of exposed intake pipe. ------------------------- Conclusion: Cars with engine management systems do not suffer noticeable problems from a plugged or stuck-open PCV valve unless an extremely unusual situation is present. History: I once had a 1975 Toyota Corolla with a carburetor and no feedback system. This car would not idle at all with the PCV valve removed. Unlike the Integras's feedback system, the carburetor was unable to compensate for the excess air. I discovered this quite by accident when an aftermarket PCV valve came apart on me. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#18
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"Bruce" > wrote
> Well, I'm going to change the PCV just because I kind of doubt the > previous owner put in an OEM Valve, IF he changed it at all. One less > thing that could be causing my mileage problems, and it probably needs > done anyway. > > But, I'd also like to check the timing... any advice on finding the > timing mark on the crank pulley? I assume it's just a little dab of > paint and that I'll have to put some white-out on it to make it visible > with the timing light, but I can't see ANY mark on the pulley. Nada. Like Jim said, it is hard to see. You should go at it from the top, and with a flashlight, using the directions he gave. That degreaser you applied may have helped shorten the life of the pulley's timing paint marks. The marks are mechanically etched into the pulley, though, so they should still be somewhat visible. You do realize it's four marks, all within about 10 degrees (too lazy to think about the exact degrees apart they are), right? There was a photo online of the c. 90 Civic's timing marks at a certain site that I'm trying to pull up now. My Chilton's has a drawing and photo, so Autzone.com and probably the UK site should have at least the drawings, too, under "ignition timing." I'll post a link if I find it. > And I need to short the contacts under the kick plate in the passenger > compartment to disable the auto-timing adjustment too, right? Yes. |
#19
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"Elle" > wrote
> There was a photo online of the c. 90 Civic's timing marks at a certain site > that I'm trying to pull up now. My Chilton's has a drawing and photo, so > Autzone.com and probably the UK site should have at least the drawings, too, > under "ignition timing." I'll post a link if I find it. FWIW, go to http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/ConcertoManual/index.html , and click on Engine Tune-Up, then "Ignition Timing... " at the bottom for some drawings of the engine and its timing marks. Check out the CRX manual's drawings, too, at the UK site. They are slightly different. www.autozone.com has the drawings and photo (under its free repair guides; "engine performance and tune-up"; "ignition timing") too. I have been having error messages when I accessing some of Autozone's sites from home, but I found that repeatedly refreshing usually clears this up. > > And I need to short the contacts under the kick plate in the passenger > > compartment to disable the auto-timing adjustment too, right? > > Yes. Ignore the UK site's steps on this. The c. 1990 Concerto and CRX have a different set up for disabling the automatic ignition timing adjustment. |
#20
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Bruce wrote:
> Gotcha... should have considered that as I know you have to look down > and line up those two little pointy things on the timing belt cover to > check it. A little white-out will help me see it indeed, but don't make the mark too big - even 2 degrees out made my 91 crx hesitate. > w/ the timing light > while the pulley's turning. > > Thanks > |
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