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A coil spring waggy ! Wow.
Dave Milne, Scotland 91 Grand Waggoneer, 99 TJ "Chip" > wrote in message .. . > In that case, I have a link for you. About 1/3 of the way down the page, > you'll see the oil line kit installed. > http://www.fullsizejeep.com/1024/p_engine.htm > > Chip > > > > > "L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" > wrote in message > ... > > Hi Chip, > > I not familiar with APP, nor any oil line kit for AMC's V8, would > > you give an URL to check out. > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > http://www.billhughes.com/ > > > > Chip wrote: > >> > >> Bill, > >> I do not really know the history of that engine. I'll never know what > >> happened to the engine before it was installed in my jeep. The original > >> engine was a 304 and has probably been melted down to make fence posts. > >> I > >> do know that the terrible condition of the bearings (some of the cam > >> bearings had buildup on the inside, bearing surface) had a great deal to > >> do > >> with the bad oil pressure. I'm thinking that I should replace the timing > >> cover just to be on the safe side and install the oil line kit from APP > >> in > >> the block to help oil rear main. Does that seem to be the safe appraoch, > >> in > >> your opinion? > >> > >> Thanks, > >> > >> Chip > >> > >> "L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" > wrote in message > >> ... > >> > Hi Chip, > >> > If the 360" is sitting in a Real Jeep, you can say with one hundred > >> > percent assurances that it needs a new timing chain cover. Especially > >> > when you tell us you have fifty instead of eighty pounds bypass cold > >> > Idling and zero hot, means the bypass valve was whacked and stuck fully > >> > open. You may not see the damage from out side, unless some paint is > >> > chipped away from the impact with the differential. Usually there's a > >> > combination of things that let that happen, first you must do a jump > >> > that'll fully compress your springs and be missing the bump stop on > >> > that > >> > side or have a weak engine mount on that side, but that is the reason > >> > most of AMC's V8 have gone to Chevy. > >> > I don't believe you need the distributor gear oiler modification, > >> > again that is the bypass problem only this time it's stuck shut, and > >> > the > >> > gear is not strong enough to twist the shaft in two. You may see the > >> > little piston valve at: http://www.drivetrain.com/jeepengineparts.html > >> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > >> > http://www.billhughes.com/ > >> > > >> > WKJ wrote: > >> >> > >> >> When I get my block back from the shop, I'm thinking about making a > >> >> modification to it to assist in the engine oiling and oil pressure. > >> >> Granted, the condition of the bearings did not help the situation but, > >> >> I > >> >> do > >> >> not want to have a freshly rebuilt engine and no oil pressure. Before > >> >> I > >> >> pulled the thing, I had about 50lbs at startup and it went down to > >> >> (almost) > >> >> non-existant when it warmed up. I do not, however, know the accuracy > >> >> of > >> >> the > >> >> gage. There are two issues here 1) oiling the rear and front of the > >> >> engine > >> >> and 2) oil pressure due to warn timing cover. > >> >> > >> >> I've found a few pieces of information on how to handle problem #1, > >> >> but > >> >> it > >> >> is not sufficient. In case not everyone is up on this subject, I've > >> >> grabbed > >> >> this bit of information from a Q&A on the 'net. > >> >> > >> >> 11) Engine Oiling: > >> >> - AMC V8s tend to starve the rear crankshaft bearings and distributor > >> >> gears. > >> >> The solution is to put a TIG welding tip into a oil gallery plug. > >> >> TeamRush's > >> >> instructions follow: I drilled the left (odd) bank lifter gallery plug > >> >> in > >> >> the front at an angle directed at the fuel pump eccentric and the > >> >> distributor gear. I threaded the plug, and screwed it back into the > >> >> block, > >> >> then screwed a 0.024" mig welder tip into it. When the oil pressure is > >> >> up, > >> >> it sprays a continuous stream of oil on the top crankshaft gear. > >> >> > >> >> If this is the thing to do, I'd like to see a few pictures of the > >> >> process, > >> >> if they exist. > >> >> > >> >> For the rear main, I found a kit from American Performance Products > >> >> that > >> >> and > >> >> I'm going to inquire about to see if I need to have the block machined > >> >> in > >> >> a > >> >> few locations before it get it back. > >> >> > >> >> For the pressure issue, it is recommended is to check the clearances > >> >> on > >> >> the > >> >> timing cover/oil pump cover and either rebuild it or replace it. I've > >> >> rebuit the oil pump when I replaced the timing set, but some say that > >> >> is > >> >> not > >> >> enough. Not sure what to do here. I can check the clearance on the > >> >> one > >> >> that I have or should I just buy an aftermarket timing cover? > >> >> > >> >> Chip > >> >> > >> >> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet > >> >> News==---- > >> >> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > >> >> 120,000+ > >> >> Newsgroups > >> >> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption > >> >> =---- > > |
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