Chrysler (Dodge) 9.25 differential - anybody been inside of one???

On 23 Feb 2004 11:53:22 -0800, (Ron M.) wrote:

>:|> >:| - I don't have a torque wrench, but I can sufficiently tighten a bolt
>:|> >:|or nut by feel with no problems. Is a torque wrench a life-or-death
>:|> >:|requirement to do this? I'm thinking in particular of:
>:|> >:|
>:|> >:|....the pinion shaft retaining bolt
>:|> >:|....the differential cover bolts
>:|> >:|....the bolts holding on the disc brake calipers
>:|>
>:|> go buy or rent one. over torqueing the diffcover WILL make it leak,
>:|> overtorquing the crosspin retaining bolt can cause it to snap (the
>:|> torque for them is suprisingly low).
>:|>
>:|> the bolts for the calipers usually only need in the 30ftlbs range, but
>:|> they're not nearly as sensative to overtorquing.
>:|
>:|Since you guys are so helpful and knowledgeable, would you happen to
>:|know just what the torque specs ARE for those three bolts? I've
>:|scoured the internet, and can't find it anywhere.
>:|
>:|Ron M.

go buy a haynes book... they should be listed in it.... on my GM small
14 bolt it's 14lbs for the retaining bolt, 30 on the caliper and 25 -
30 on the cover (from memory... book is in truck)

-Bret

Well, I'm all set. I have 3 quarts of Royal Purple 75w-140 synthetic
gear oil, a tube of Valvoline's best synthetic bearing grease, a new
torque wrench, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Blue. Now I just need to
watch for the UPS man to show up with the Powertrax No-Slip. The
tension builds. I'm going to record the whole process with the
digital camera and put the pics up on a website.

It's a strange feeling, kinda scary, going into a area of your vehicle
you've never been before. But I've gone through the steps so many
times I think I can do it in my sleep.

Three things I'm not sure about.. and I'm a person that likes to be
"sure" about things before making the Swan Dive Blindfolded Into The
Abyss:

- The C-clips. How hard are they to get off and back on? Will I need
to grab them with pliers and yank them off, or pry them with
something, or do they just fall off?

- Cripes. I JUST NOW learned, somewhat accidentally, about the RTV
having to cure for 24 hours before you put the oil in. It says it
cures in 24 hours at 70 degrees. The temp around here is 50-60, and
probably very humid - it's been raining on and off for weeks. I
wonder if I should give it some extra time or something.

- The label on the RTV says to put the two surfaces together
IMMEDIATELY, but quite a bunch of people say you need to let it sit
for 10 minutes to give it a little "skin" or it definitely will not
seal. However, in situations like this, I tend to follow the
manufacturer's directions.

Ron M.

Well, I'm all set. I have 3 quarts of Royal Purple 75w-140 synthetic
gear oil, a tube of Valvoline's best synthetic bearing grease, a new
torque wrench, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Blue. Now I just need to
watch for the UPS man to show up with the Powertrax No-Slip. The
tension builds. I'm going to record the whole process with the
digital camera and put the pics up on a website.

It's a strange feeling, kinda scary, going into a area of your vehicle
you've never been before. But I've gone through the steps so many
times I think I can do it in my sleep.

Three things I'm not sure about.. and I'm a person that likes to be
"sure" about things before making the Swan Dive Blindfolded Into The
Abyss:

- The C-clips. How hard are they to get off and back on? Will I need
to grab them with pliers and yank them off, or pry them with
something, or do they just fall off?

- Cripes. I JUST NOW learned, somewhat accidentally, about the RTV
having to cure for 24 hours before you put the oil in. It says it
cures in 24 hours at 70 degrees. The temp around here is 50-60, and
probably very humid - it's been raining on and off for weeks. I
wonder if I should give it some extra time or something.

- The label on the RTV says to put the two surfaces together
IMMEDIATELY, but quite a bunch of people say you need to let it sit
for 10 minutes to give it a little "skin" or it definitely will not
seal. However, in situations like this, I tend to follow the
manufacturer's directions.

Ron M.

Exactly what parts do you intend to replace??? Either you have just
forgotten to mention a few tools or you are going to get into real trouble
real fast.

--
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving


"Ron M." > wrote in message
om...
> Well, I'm all set. I have 3 quarts of Royal Purple 75w-140 synthetic
> gear oil, a tube of Valvoline's best synthetic bearing grease, a new
> torque wrench, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Blue. Now I just need to
> watch for the UPS man to show up with the Powertrax No-Slip. The
> tension builds. I'm going to record the whole process with the
> digital camera and put the pics up on a website.
>
> It's a strange feeling, kinda scary, going into a area of your vehicle
> you've never been before. But I've gone through the steps so many
> times I think I can do it in my sleep.
>
> Three things I'm not sure about.. and I'm a person that likes to be
> "sure" about things before making the Swan Dive Blindfolded Into The
> Abyss:
>
> - The C-clips. How hard are they to get off and back on? Will I need
> to grab them with pliers and yank them off, or pry them with
> something, or do they just fall off?
>
> - Cripes. I JUST NOW learned, somewhat accidentally, about the RTV
> having to cure for 24 hours before you put the oil in. It says it
> cures in 24 hours at 70 degrees. The temp around here is 50-60, and
> probably very humid - it's been raining on and off for weeks. I
> wonder if I should give it some extra time or something.
>
> - The label on the RTV says to put the two surfaces together
> IMMEDIATELY, but quite a bunch of people say you need to let it sit
> for 10 minutes to give it a little "skin" or it definitely will not
> seal. However, in situations like this, I tend to follow the
> manufacturer's directions.
>
> Ron M.

Exactly what parts do you intend to replace??? Either you have just
forgotten to mention a few tools or you are going to get into real trouble
real fast.

--
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving


"Ron M." > wrote in message
om...
> Well, I'm all set. I have 3 quarts of Royal Purple 75w-140 synthetic
> gear oil, a tube of Valvoline's best synthetic bearing grease, a new
> torque wrench, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Blue. Now I just need to
> watch for the UPS man to show up with the Powertrax No-Slip. The
> tension builds. I'm going to record the whole process with the
> digital camera and put the pics up on a website.
>
> It's a strange feeling, kinda scary, going into a area of your vehicle
> you've never been before. But I've gone through the steps so many
> times I think I can do it in my sleep.
>
> Three things I'm not sure about.. and I'm a person that likes to be
> "sure" about things before making the Swan Dive Blindfolded Into The
> Abyss:
>
> - The C-clips. How hard are they to get off and back on? Will I need
> to grab them with pliers and yank them off, or pry them with
> something, or do they just fall off?
>
> - Cripes. I JUST NOW learned, somewhat accidentally, about the RTV
> having to cure for 24 hours before you put the oil in. It says it
> cures in 24 hours at 70 degrees. The temp around here is 50-60, and
> probably very humid - it's been raining on and off for weeks. I
> wonder if I should give it some extra time or something.
>
> - The label on the RTV says to put the two surfaces together
> IMMEDIATELY, but quite a bunch of people say you need to let it sit
> for 10 minutes to give it a little "skin" or it definitely will not
> seal. However, in situations like this, I tend to follow the
> manufacturer's directions.
>
> Ron M.

On 24 Feb 2004 12:07:17 -0800, (Ron M.) wrote:

>:|Well, I'm all set. I have 3 quarts of Royal Purple 75w-140 synthetic
>:|gear oil, a tube of Valvoline's best synthetic bearing grease, a new
>:|torque wrench, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Blue. Now I just need to
>:|watch for the UPS man to show up with the Powertrax No-Slip. The
>:|tension builds. I'm going to record the whole process with the
>:|digital camera and put the pics up on a website.
>:|
>:|It's a strange feeling, kinda scary, going into a area of your vehicle
>:|you've never been before. But I've gone through the steps so many
>:|times I think I can do it in my sleep.

this is a piece of cake..... setting up the R&P is where true skills
are required.


>:|
>:|Three things I'm not sure about.. and I'm a person that likes to be
>:|"sure" about things before making the Swan Dive Blindfolded Into The
>:|Abyss:
>:|
>:| - The C-clips. How hard are they to get off and back on? Will I need
>:|to grab them with pliers and yank them off, or pry them with
>:|something, or do they just fall off?

once you have the crossshaft removed, the C clips will come out very
easily with a bent pick or a telescoping magnet. don't forget to have
someone push in on the axle shaft.


>:|
>:| - Cripes. I JUST NOW learned, somewhat accidentally, about the RTV
>:|having to cure for 24 hours before you put the oil in. It says it
>:|cures in 24 hours at 70 degrees. The temp around here is 50-60, and
>:|probably very humid - it's been raining on and off for weeks. I
>:|wonder if I should give it some extra time or something.


nah.... just wait 20-30 mins before you dump the lube in. the 24hrs is
for a full cure
>:|
>:| - The label on the RTV says to put the two surfaces together
>:|IMMEDIATELY, but quite a bunch of people say you need to let it sit
>:|for 10 minutes to give it a little "skin" or it definitely will not
>:|seal. However, in situations like this, I tend to follow the
>:|manufacturer's directions.
>:|
>:|Ron M.


in my experience, the first side will skin over sufficiently during
the time it takes to put the RTV on the second.


-Bret

On 24 Feb 2004 12:07:17 -0800, (Ron M.) wrote:

>:|Well, I'm all set. I have 3 quarts of Royal Purple 75w-140 synthetic
>:|gear oil, a tube of Valvoline's best synthetic bearing grease, a new
>:|torque wrench, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Blue. Now I just need to
>:|watch for the UPS man to show up with the Powertrax No-Slip. The
>:|tension builds. I'm going to record the whole process with the
>:|digital camera and put the pics up on a website.
>:|
>:|It's a strange feeling, kinda scary, going into a area of your vehicle
>:|you've never been before. But I've gone through the steps so many
>:|times I think I can do it in my sleep.

this is a piece of cake..... setting up the R&P is where true skills
are required.


>:|
>:|Three things I'm not sure about.. and I'm a person that likes to be
>:|"sure" about things before making the Swan Dive Blindfolded Into The
>:|Abyss:
>:|
>:| - The C-clips. How hard are they to get off and back on? Will I need
>:|to grab them with pliers and yank them off, or pry them with
>:|something, or do they just fall off?

once you have the crossshaft removed, the C clips will come out very
easily with a bent pick or a telescoping magnet. don't forget to have
someone push in on the axle shaft.


>:|
>:| - Cripes. I JUST NOW learned, somewhat accidentally, about the RTV
>:|having to cure for 24 hours before you put the oil in. It says it
>:|cures in 24 hours at 70 degrees. The temp around here is 50-60, and
>:|probably very humid - it's been raining on and off for weeks. I
>:|wonder if I should give it some extra time or something.


nah.... just wait 20-30 mins before you dump the lube in. the 24hrs is
for a full cure
>:|
>:| - The label on the RTV says to put the two surfaces together
>:|IMMEDIATELY, but quite a bunch of people say you need to let it sit
>:|for 10 minutes to give it a little "skin" or it definitely will not
>:|seal. However, in situations like this, I tend to follow the
>:|manufacturer's directions.
>:|
>:|Ron M.


in my experience, the first side will skin over sufficiently during
the time it takes to put the RTV on the second.


-Bret

"Ron M." > wrote in message
om...
> Well, I'm all set. I have 3 quarts of Royal Purple 75w-140 synthetic
> gear oil, a tube of Valvoline's best synthetic bearing grease, a new
> torque wrench, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Blue. Now I just need to
> watch for the UPS man to show up with the Powertrax No-Slip. The
> tension builds. I'm going to record the whole process with the
> digital camera and put the pics up on a website.
>
> It's a strange feeling, kinda scary, going into a area of your vehicle
> you've never been before. But I've gone through the steps so many
> times I think I can do it in my sleep.
>
> Three things I'm not sure about.. and I'm a person that likes to be
> "sure" about things before making the Swan Dive Blindfolded Into The
> Abyss:
>
> - The C-clips. How hard are they to get off and back on? Will I need
> to grab them with pliers and yank them off, or pry them with
> something, or do they just fall off?
>
> - Cripes. I JUST NOW learned, somewhat accidentally, about the RTV
> having to cure for 24 hours before you put the oil in. It says it
> cures in 24 hours at 70 degrees. The temp around here is 50-60, and
> probably very humid - it's been raining on and off for weeks. I
> wonder if I should give it some extra time or something.
>
> - The label on the RTV says to put the two surfaces together
> IMMEDIATELY, but quite a bunch of people say you need to let it sit
> for 10 minutes to give it a little "skin" or it definitely will not
> seal. However, in situations like this, I tend to follow the
> manufacturer's directions.
>
> Ron M.

For gasketed parts, I prefer Permatex "Aviation Form-A-Gasket" -- I use RTV
only when I need to fill a void. I got that tip from my machinist, who's
been at it "since dirt was new".
Bryan

"Ron M." > wrote in message
om...
> Well, I'm all set. I have 3 quarts of Royal Purple 75w-140 synthetic
> gear oil, a tube of Valvoline's best synthetic bearing grease, a new
> torque wrench, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Blue. Now I just need to
> watch for the UPS man to show up with the Powertrax No-Slip. The
> tension builds. I'm going to record the whole process with the
> digital camera and put the pics up on a website.
>
> It's a strange feeling, kinda scary, going into a area of your vehicle
> you've never been before. But I've gone through the steps so many
> times I think I can do it in my sleep.
>
> Three things I'm not sure about.. and I'm a person that likes to be
> "sure" about things before making the Swan Dive Blindfolded Into The
> Abyss:
>
> - The C-clips. How hard are they to get off and back on? Will I need
> to grab them with pliers and yank them off, or pry them with
> something, or do they just fall off?
>
> - Cripes. I JUST NOW learned, somewhat accidentally, about the RTV
> having to cure for 24 hours before you put the oil in. It says it
> cures in 24 hours at 70 degrees. The temp around here is 50-60, and
> probably very humid - it's been raining on and off for weeks. I
> wonder if I should give it some extra time or something.
>
> - The label on the RTV says to put the two surfaces together
> IMMEDIATELY, but quite a bunch of people say you need to let it sit
> for 10 minutes to give it a little "skin" or it definitely will not
> seal. However, in situations like this, I tend to follow the
> manufacturer's directions.
>
> Ron M.

For gasketed parts, I prefer Permatex "Aviation Form-A-Gasket" -- I use RTV
only when I need to fill a void. I got that tip from my machinist, who's
been at it "since dirt was new".
Bryan

"Bryan Swadener" > wrote in message
news:4ZU_b.117745$jk2.509822@attbi_s53...
>
> "Ron M." > wrote in message
> om...
> > Well, I'm all set. I have 3 quarts of Royal Purple 75w-140 synthetic
> > gear oil, a tube of Valvoline's best synthetic bearing grease, a new
> > torque wrench, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Blue. Now I just need to
> > watch for the UPS man to show up with the Powertrax No-Slip. The
> > tension builds. I'm going to record the whole process with the
> > digital camera and put the pics up on a website.
> >
> > It's a strange feeling, kinda scary, going into a area of your vehicle
> > you've never been before. But I've gone through the steps so many
> > times I think I can do it in my sleep.
> >
> > Three things I'm not sure about.. and I'm a person that likes to be
> > "sure" about things before making the Swan Dive Blindfolded Into The
> > Abyss:
> >
> > - The C-clips. How hard are they to get off and back on? Will I need
> > to grab them with pliers and yank them off, or pry them with
> > something, or do they just fall off?
> >
> > - Cripes. I JUST NOW learned, somewhat accidentally, about the RTV
> > having to cure for 24 hours before you put the oil in. It says it
> > cures in 24 hours at 70 degrees. The temp around here is 50-60, and
> > probably very humid - it's been raining on and off for weeks. I
> > wonder if I should give it some extra time or something.
> >
> > - The label on the RTV says to put the two surfaces together
> > IMMEDIATELY, but quite a bunch of people say you need to let it sit
> > for 10 minutes to give it a little "skin" or it definitely will not
> > seal. However, in situations like this, I tend to follow the
> > manufacturer's directions.
> >
> > Ron M.
>
> For gasketed parts, I prefer Permatex "Aviation Form-A-Gasket" -- I use
RTV
> only when I need to fill a void. I got that tip from my machinist, who's
> been at it "since dirt was new".
> Bryan
>

Red must be your machinist!! <G>