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#1
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Good penetrating oil on the threads put on several times over several
hours. A sharp hit with a heavy hammer while trying to turn it with the grips. A dremil tool to either cut a slot in it or to flatten two sides so a wrench can maybe grab it again. If room, plumbers pipe wrenches are like vise grips on steroids and will grab even perfectly round heads. A dremil tool to cut the head off if all else fails so the caliper can be removed, then use the pipe wrench to remove the stub. A torch on the threads or anchor plate if you have place to use it. then an impact and grips. Good luck! Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Jackson Wallace wrote: > > I've got a caliper bolt that's stripped and won't come off the front > passenger side of a 99 Ford Taurus. I've tried vice grips but the head of > the bolt is stripped so badly the grips roll right off once I try to turn > them. It isn't one of the bigger mounting bolts, it's the lower one of the > smaller pin bolts (I guess they're called). > > Any advice? |
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#2
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Stripped caliper bolt
"Jackson Wallace" > wrote in message ... > I've got a caliper bolt that's stripped and won't come off the front > passenger side of a 99 Ford Taurus. I've tried vice grips but the head of > the bolt is stripped so badly the grips roll right off once I try to turn > them. It isn't one of the bigger mounting bolts, it's the lower one of > the > smaller pin bolts (I guess they're called). > > Any advice? To begin with, do you not have a proper Allen wrench? If not, use a GOOD small pair of vice grips--needs to be thinner than the bolt head so as to expose the bolt head for tapping it with a hammer--lock them onto the bolt and lightly tap on the end of the bolt head as you apply turning force with the pliers. The bolt should turn out. If all else fails, you can use a dull chisel and hammer. Drive the chisel at an angle into/onto the head of the bolt and in the direction it needs to turn. This combination of blows plus biting-and-driving force should remove it. REPLACE the bolt with a good one, in any case. If you have to go buy a tool, a proper Allen wrench is amazingly cheap & should be a lot cheaper than a (thin) pair of vice grips. You will need it for installion anyway. BTW, purchasing a good very small pair of vice grips is a worthwhile investment that you'll never regret. HTH. s |
#3
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I good set of vice grips will dig in and hold this sufficiently. I did the
same thing with an a-arm bushing nut and the vice grips were old and crappy, they had no teeth left at all. Got a new one of the right size and it worked like a charm. "Jackson Wallace" > wrote in message ... > I've got a caliper bolt that's stripped and won't come off the front > passenger side of a 99 Ford Taurus. I've tried vice grips but the head of > the bolt is stripped so badly the grips roll right off once I try to turn > them. It isn't one of the bigger mounting bolts, it's the lower one of the > smaller pin bolts (I guess they're called). > > Any advice? |
#4
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> I'm using a socket wrench...same thing? The sockets won't grip it. I am assuming the bolts have an Allen head, which is an internal, hexagonal hole into which the Allen tool fits for turning. Some sockets are made as Allen tools--straight, hexagonal shaped 'rods' of various sizes. > How am I to be sure I've tightened these bolts back on tight enough? > These > things were on there real damn tight but I got the other three off. I'm sure there is a specified torque, in ft-lbs or inch-lbs; but sounds like you may not have a torque wrench and I don't have a manual stating proper torque anyway. Not much help to you, but I've always used gut-feel from having done it so much when tightening them. Apparently, yours were seized from the years or rust and corrosion. A caution is in order: I'm sure that they can be overtightened, and you don't want to leave them too loose either. Maybe another poster will be able to help guide you on this. s |
#5
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STOP NOW!! While there is still something there for a shop to work with
(hoping that there is still something to work with). At first sign of these sorts of things, a good shop would weld a new purchase point on to the offending fastener. It would be allowed until cool to the touch - guarranteed to come out. Word to the wise.... worrying at it with a vise grip until there is nothing left will only increase the cost of removing the fastener. HTH "Jackson Wallace" > wrote in message ... > I've got a caliper bolt that's stripped and won't come off the front > passenger side of a 99 Ford Taurus. I've tried vice grips but the head of > the bolt is stripped so badly the grips roll right off once I try to turn > them. It isn't one of the bigger mounting bolts, it's the lower one of the > smaller pin bolts (I guess they're called). > > Any advice? |
#6
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"Jackson Wallace" > wrote in message ... > Why not get it out, replace the brakes like I want to and then buy another > caliper bolt? Because the fiddling with getting it out may get you deeper into the chili.. If you can get it out, do so...I haven't had much luck with Visegrips. I have occasionally used a small thin pipe wrench if I can get it on the head of what I want to remove. I think it holds better IF you have enough left to bite onto and if you have room to use it. Use a good penetrating oil. |
#7
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first of all get a book and the right tools ?
and dont forget the anti sieze all answers are good = if all fails cut it off ? |
#8
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Jackson Wallace wrote:
> I've got a caliper bolt that's stripped and won't come off the front > passenger side of a 99 Ford Taurus. I've tried vice grips but the head of > the bolt is stripped so badly the grips roll right off once I try to turn > them. It isn't one of the bigger mounting bolts, it's the lower one of the > smaller pin bolts (I guess they're called). > > Any advice? well only thing i can suggest is to weld a "nut" to the bolt (note this may damage the caliper) and when that is securely welded heat the other end with torch and then the bolt will come out. In other words take it to a shop cause if you didnt know this allready i am asuming that you arent experienced enough to do this yourself |
#9
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"Jackson Wallace" > wrote in message news > On Sat, 9 Jul 2005 16:33:41 -0400, sdlomi2 wrote: > >>> I'm using a socket wrench...same thing? The sockets won't grip it. >> I am assuming the bolts have an Allen head, which is an internal, >> hexagonal hole into which the Allen tool fits for turning. > > I have another question: I had to unscrew the line from the back of the > caliper that delivers brake fluid to the unit, all the brake fluid leaked > out. > > Is there anything special that needs to be done for putting the fluid back > in? Adding more fluid and bleeding the brakes are necessary. It wouldn't be a bad idea to bleed the whole system and replace the old fluid. Likely you would run into more problems with bleeder valves on the other wheels, so precede with caution here. Ken |
#10
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"NapalmHeart" > wrote in message ... > > "Jackson Wallace" > wrote in message > news >> On Sat, 9 Jul 2005 16:33:41 -0400, sdlomi2 wrote: >> >>>> I'm using a socket wrench...same thing? The sockets won't grip it. >>> I am assuming the bolts have an Allen head, which is an internal, >>> hexagonal hole into which the Allen tool fits for turning. >> >> I have another question: I had to unscrew the line from the back of the >> caliper that delivers brake fluid to the unit, all the brake fluid leaked >> out. >> >> Is there anything special that needs to be done for putting the fluid >> back >> in? > > Adding more fluid and bleeding the brakes are necessary. It wouldn't be a > bad idea to bleed the whole system and replace the old fluid. Likely you > would run into more problems with bleeder valves on the other wheels, so > procede with caution here. > > Ken > |
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