91 corolla ball joints

I recently took my 91 corolla to get the suspension checked out after
hearing a popping noise while driving straight that I pinned down to
something connected to the front driver's side strut. (creaking/popping
while letting my weight off the fender)

I got it looked at and they were nice enough to show it to me while it
was up on the rack, and the guy took the front left wheel and shook it
pretty hard up and down and said look, there shouldnt be any play in
the wheel (looked like there was about 1/4 inch or so) so that means
the ball joints are bad. And look again, there shouldnt be any play
left-to-right either and he grabbed the tire and shook the wheel pretty
hard that way and it had about the same amount of play. So that means
you need a new tie rod end. I didn't hear the popping sound at all
during all of this, but maybe thats because there wasnt any weight on
the suspension components. (and also i could be backwards about the tie
rod ends and ball joints.. i just cant remember which direction he said
means which).

They said they werent sure what was causing the popping noise exactly,
but that those things definitely needed to be replaced and that I would
need an alignment.

Then, I was shown my tires and the one on the passenger side was really
worn away on the very inside tread, and so was the driver's side, on
the inside, so my tires must have been sitting like this: / \
while driving causing that wear pattern.

In fact, the driver's side tire was so worn away you could see the
steel belting in a strip about a foot long where the rubber had just
torn away!

So, I guess I need to find out if this
clicking/popping/grinding/burping/creaking sound could indeed be a ball
joint on one side, and if i definitely need an alignment after ball
joints and a tie rod end are done, and how much it should all cost for
parts and labor (rough estimate).

Will the new set of walmart tires last until 2 weeks from now when I
can afford to have this done (driving a total of about 10 miles a day
at 35mph)? Is it terribly dangerous to be driving with a popping noise
coming from some sort of worn suspension part heard every 2 seconds or
so? I've driven the car for months with the noise intermittently. I
realize these last questions can't be answered, just adding them for
dramatic effect. :S

Thanks for any input,
Bill


They gave me a rough estimate of $400 for parts and labor, for a new
ball joint on either side and a new tie rod end on the left

It sounds very much like they told you the truth.

The popping noise could be caused by the bad parts, likely the ball
joint.

The next sound you 'might' hear after the popping noise is 'OH CRAP' as
the front wheel falls off. Been there, it isn't any fun....

You can burn off a tire in 'very' few miles if the joints are bad
enough.

Yes you will need an alignment.

Have no idea what the cost is, but not likely cheap. You can do a lot
of it yourself if you are so inclined.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

" wrote:
>
> I recently took my 91 corolla to get the suspension checked out after
> hearing a popping noise while driving straight that I pinned down to
> something connected to the front driver's side strut. (creaking/popping
> while letting my weight off the fender)
>
> I got it looked at and they were nice enough to show it to me while it
> was up on the rack, and the guy took the front left wheel and shook it
> pretty hard up and down and said look, there shouldnt be any play in
> the wheel (looked like there was about 1/4 inch or so) so that means
> the ball joints are bad. And look again, there shouldnt be any play
> left-to-right either and he grabbed the tire and shook the wheel pretty
> hard that way and it had about the same amount of play. So that means
> you need a new tie rod end. I didn't hear the popping sound at all
> during all of this, but maybe thats because there wasnt any weight on
> the suspension components. (and also i could be backwards about the tie
> rod ends and ball joints.. i just cant remember which direction he said
> means which).
>
> They said they werent sure what was causing the popping noise exactly,
> but that those things definitely needed to be replaced and that I would
> need an alignment.
>
> Then, I was shown my tires and the one on the passenger side was really
> worn away on the very inside tread, and so was the driver's side, on
> the inside, so my tires must have been sitting like this: / \
> while driving causing that wear pattern.
>
> In fact, the driver's side tire was so worn away you could see the
> steel belting in a strip about a foot long where the rubber had just
> torn away!
>
> So, I guess I need to find out if this
> clicking/popping/grinding/burping/creaking sound could indeed be a ball
> joint on one side, and if i definitely need an alignment after ball
> joints and a tie rod end are done, and how much it should all cost for
> parts and labor (rough estimate).
>
> Will the new set of walmart tires last until 2 weeks from now when I
> can afford to have this done (driving a total of about 10 miles a day
> at 35mph)? Is it terribly dangerous to be driving with a popping noise
> coming from some sort of worn suspension part heard every 2 seconds or
> so? I've driven the car for months with the noise intermittently. I
> realize these last questions can't be answered, just adding them for
> dramatic effect. :S
>
> Thanks for any input,
> Bill
>
> They gave me a rough estimate of $400 for parts and labor, for a new
> ball joint on either side and a new tie rod end on the left

Wrote:
> I recently took my 91 corolla to get the suspension checked out after
> hearing a popping noise while driving straight that I pinned down to
> something connected to the front driver's side strut. (creaking/popping
> while letting my weight off the fender)
>
> I got it looked at and they were nice enough to show it to me while it
> was up on the rack, and the guy took the front left wheel and shook it
> pretty hard up and down and said look, there shouldnt be any play in
> the wheel (looked like there was about 1/4 inch or so) so that means
> the ball joints are bad. And look again, there shouldnt be any play
> left-to-right either and he grabbed the tire and shook the wheel pretty
> hard that way and it had about the same amount of play. So that means
> you need a new tie rod end. I didn't hear the popping sound at all
> during all of this, but maybe thats because there wasnt any weight on
> the suspension components. (and also i could be backwards about the tie
> rod ends and ball joints.. i just cant remember which direction he said
> means which).
>
> They said they werent sure what was causing the popping noise exactly,
> but that those things definitely needed to be replaced and that I would
> need an alignment.
>
> Then, I was shown my tires and the one on the passenger side was really
> worn away on the very inside tread, and so was the driver's side, on
> the inside, so my tires must have been sitting like this: / \
> while driving causing that wear pattern.
>
> In fact, the driver's side tire was so worn away you could see the
> steel belting in a strip about a foot long where the rubber had just
> torn away!
>
> So, I guess I need to find out if this
> clicking/popping/grinding/burping/creaking sound could indeed be a ball
> joint on one side, and if i definitely need an alignment after ball
> joints and a tie rod end are done, and how much it should all cost for
> parts and labor (rough estimate).
>
> Will the new set of walmart tires last until 2 weeks from now when I
> can afford to have this done (driving a total of about 10 miles a day
> at 35mph)? Is it terribly dangerous to be driving with a popping noise
> coming from some sort of worn suspension part heard every 2 seconds or
> so? I've driven the car for months with the noise intermittently. I
> realize these last questions can't be answered, just adding them for
> dramatic effect. :S
>
> Thanks for any input,
> Bill
>
>
> They gave me a rough estimate of $400 for parts and labor, for a new
> ball joint on either side and a new tie rod end on the left

If that estimate includes the alignment when it's done, that's not
bad...

The ball joints on your car when bad will show horizontal movement,
sliding back and forth where the lower control arm and spindle
join...that's the best location to observe that movement, otherwise, it
could be a hub bearing or something else causing it...tie rod ends
(outer) will show vertical play in the ball socket when worn, again,
you check this at the PART, not at the wheel...and the inners, being
inside the rack end boots, aren't visible, but you can still feel them
by squeezing the boot while moving the wheel left/right...you can feel
the slop as a slight popping sensastion, most likely what you hear/feel
when driving, as it transmits directly through the steering rack to the
body, right down near your feet when driving.

If all these parts are truly that worn on your car, and it's tearing up
tires as you descibe, I personally wouldn't drive it as far as I could
throw it...ever had a ball joint seperate and let the spindle go at
speed? I have, that's why I wouldn't do it again....


--
jeffcoslacker
------------------------------------------------------------------------
jeffcoslacker's Profile: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...?userid=219638
View this thread: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=612032

http://www.automotiveforums.com

" > wrote in
oups.com:

> I recently took my 91 corolla to get the suspension checked out after
> hearing a popping noise while driving straight that I pinned down to
> something connected to the front driver's side strut. (creaking/popping
> while letting my weight off the fender)



First thing to check is the stabilizer bar balljoints. These go bad all the
time. They are easy to change. Part is ~$70 or so.

Raise car. Pull up and down on the stabilizer bar link. It's usually the
upper ball that goes bad and play is readily obvious.


--
TeGGeR®