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#11
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Jackson Wallace wrote:
> > Is it feasible to just put some brake fluid in the car and bring it > somewhere to be bled? That seems like tedious work to say the least. > > A related question: > > I muscled the piston down so that I had room for the new pads. I read > somewhere that one has 20 seconds or so for the piston to reset itself into > the up position. However, the piston didn't return. > > Does the piston return to the normal position once the brakes are pressed? You are in trouble. You cannot drive the car without bleeding the brakes, even if you get a bit of pedal, it will not be stable and the front/rear pressure difference can fast take out the master cylinder so you will have nothing when you hit the pedal. If you don't know how to bleed brakes, it is tow truck time... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's |
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#12
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Jackson Wallace wrote:
> > On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 12:01:32 -0400, Mike Romain wrote: > > > Jackson Wallace wrote: > >> > >> Is it feasible to just put some brake fluid in the car and bring it > >> somewhere to be bled? That seems like tedious work to say the least. > >> > >> A related question: > >> > >> I muscled the piston down so that I had room for the new pads. I read > >> somewhere that one has 20 seconds or so for the piston to reset itself into > >> the up position. However, the piston didn't return. > >> > >> Does the piston return to the normal position once the brakes are pressed? > > > > You are in trouble. You cannot drive the car without bleeding the > > brakes, even if you get a bit of pedal, it will not be stable and the > > front/rear pressure difference can fast take out the master cylinder so > > you will have nothing when you hit the pedal. > > > > If you don't know how to bleed brakes, it is tow truck time... > > Well, I didn't know how to change the brake pads before yesterday so I > guess it's time to learn how to bleed the brakes. Because you only opened the one side, sometimes you can just open the bleeder screw on that side and keep the reservoir filled up while gravity hopefully pushes the air out. Eventually only clear liquid will come out if you are very lucky. This might give you enough pedal to get it to a garage for a proper bleed. Bleeding is a two person job. One pushes the pedal, the other is under and opens the bleeder as the pedal goes down. Then hold the pedal down and tighten the bleeder *before letting the pedal back up. Repeat many times until no air comes out while topping up the fluid. Normally you start with the wheel farthest away from the reservoir, then work your way closer finishing with the front drivers side.. The problem is getting the bleeder screw open... You should start soaking it in penetrating oil. All the rest of them also for that matter, someone is going to have to open them. Then use a socket wrench on them. On something rusted enough to not have a head on the caliper bolt, the odds of getting the bleeder open without snapping it are small. Then you need to change the caliper which brings you back to that bolt..... If you have any gearhead friends, now is the time to get a case of beer and fire up the BBQ and ask nice..... It works lots of times, I had a BBQ last weekend when a few friends showed up to help me work on my Jeeps. Hey they even came back the second day for another BBQ and another fixit job. I wish you luck. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's |
#13
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Jackson Wallace wrote: > On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 12:57:48 -0400, Mike Romain wrote: > > > Because you only opened the one side, sometimes you can just open the > > bleeder screw on that side and keep the reservoir filled up while > > gravity hopefully pushes the air out. Eventually only clear liquid will > > come out if you are very lucky. > > > > This might give you enough pedal to get it to a garage for a proper > > bleed. Bleeding is a two person job. One pushes the pedal, the other > > is under and opens the bleeder as the pedal goes down. Then hold the > > pedal down and tighten the bleeder *before letting the pedal back up. > > Repeat many times until no air comes out while topping up the fluid. > > > > Normally you start with the wheel farthest away from the reservoir, then > > work your way closer finishing with the front drivers side.. > > > > The problem is getting the bleeder screw open... You should start > > soaking it in penetrating oil. All the rest of them also for that > > matter, someone is going to have to open them. Then use a socket wrench > > on them. > > > > On something rusted enough to not have a head on the caliper bolt, the > > odds of getting the bleeder open without snapping it are small. Then > > you need to change the caliper which brings you back to that bolt..... > > > > If you have any gearhead friends, now is the time to get a case of beer > > and fire up the BBQ and ask nice..... It works lots of times, I had a > > BBQ last weekend when a few friends showed up to help me work on my > > Jeeps. Hey they even came back the second day for another BBQ and > > another fixit job. > > > > I wish you luck. > > Thanks, but things didn't turn out very well. > > I didn't know that it was unnecessary to take the brake line off the > caliper just to change the pads. So all of this was unneeded headache. > > I wasn't able to remove all four bleeder screws, only two. So it looks > like I'm going to have to get it towed in the morning. I was only trying > to avoid some extra cost. I'm sure they won't charge much to do a bleed > and make sure all the bolts on the calipers are set tight enough. I > managed to change the pads and learned a few things and will forever be > able to change the brakes on my car in the future. > > I guess I'm an idiot for trying all of this, pretty stupid to remove the > brake line. Doesn't matter, you should change the brake fluid whenever you change pads or every 2 years anyway, so it should be done no matter what. No need to feel dumb. nate |
#14
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> I guess I'm an idiot for trying all of this, pretty stupid to remove the
> brake line. For many years I've felt that to avoid ever making a mistake, just never do anything--but that results in probably the biggest mistake of all! Congrats on the attempt, JW. Good luck in the future. s |
#15
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"Jackson Wallace" > wrote in message ... > On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 12:57:48 -0400, Mike Romain wrote: > >> Because you only opened the one side, sometimes you can just open the >> bleeder screw on that side and keep the reservoir filled up while >> gravity hopefully pushes the air out. Eventually only clear liquid will >> come out if you are very lucky. >> >> This might give you enough pedal to get it to a garage for a proper >> bleed. Bleeding is a two person job. One pushes the pedal, the other >> is under and opens the bleeder as the pedal goes down. Then hold the >> pedal down and tighten the bleeder *before letting the pedal back up. >> Repeat many times until no air comes out while topping up the fluid. >> >> Normally you start with the wheel farthest away from the reservoir, then >> work your way closer finishing with the front drivers side.. >> >> The problem is getting the bleeder screw open... You should start >> soaking it in penetrating oil. All the rest of them also for that >> matter, someone is going to have to open them. Then use a socket wrench >> on them. >> >> On something rusted enough to not have a head on the caliper bolt, the >> odds of getting the bleeder open without snapping it are small. Then >> you need to change the caliper which brings you back to that bolt..... >> >> If you have any gearhead friends, now is the time to get a case of beer >> and fire up the BBQ and ask nice..... It works lots of times, I had a >> BBQ last weekend when a few friends showed up to help me work on my >> Jeeps. Hey they even came back the second day for another BBQ and >> another fixit job. >> >> I wish you luck. > > Thanks, but things didn't turn out very well. > > I didn't know that it was unnecessary to take the brake line off the > caliper just to change the pads. So all of this was unneeded headache. > > I wasn't able to remove all four bleeder screws, only two. So it looks > like I'm going to have to get it towed in the morning. I was only trying > to avoid some extra cost. I'm sure they won't charge much to do a bleed > and make sure all the bolts on the calipers are set tight enough. I > managed to change the pads and learned a few things and will forever be > able to change the brakes on my car in the future. > > I guess I'm an idiot for trying all of this, pretty stupid to remove the > brake line. No, you're not an idiot for trying. You're just a beginner. If you learned something there's been a value in your efforts, even if you only learned that you don't want to do your own work. The best thing you could do would be to get some repair manuals for the vehicles you want to work on. That and find some friends that could show you hands-on stuff. Good Luck, Ken |
#16
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On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 17:49:37 -0500, Jackson Wallace
> wrote: >I guess I'm an idiot for trying all of this, pretty stupid to remove the >brake line. Not at all. It was kind of silly to start the project without a manual or asking someone how to do it first but you learned a lot and that knowledge will transfer to every vehicle you own. Half of us here have learned many lessons the hard way myself included! Steve B. |
#17
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#18
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Jackson Wallace > wrote in article >... > I wasn't able to remove all four bleeder screws, only two. So it looks > like I'm going to have to get it towed in the morning. I was only trying > to avoid some extra cost. I'm sure they won't charge much to do a bleed > and make sure all the bolts on the calipers are set tight enough. I cannot think of a professional shop in my area that would simply bleed the brakes and make sure that YOU tightened the bolts correctly. Once they apply a wrench to the car, they assume at least partial ownership of any resulting problems - including anything YOU may have screwed up - because they are considered to be professionals under the law, and they should NOT release a vehicle whose repair they do not believe has been done correctly. Bring it to my shop, and even if you COULD convince me to work on it after a DIY has screwed it up, I would insist on doing the entire job over from the beginning. If you take me to court, I want to be able to prove that the problem had nothing to do with what I worked on. |
#19
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Jackson Wallace wrote:
> > > I guess I'm an idiot for trying all of this, pretty stupid to remove the > brake line. You never learn anything if you don't make the attempt. You for sure aren't the first to remove one thing too many..... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's |
#20
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"Jackson Wallace" > wrote in message ... > I guess I'm an idiot for trying all of this, pretty stupid to remove the > brake line. For whatever it is worth, everybody has to start somewhere, and we have all had jobs go bad. Dont feel bad about it. One thing I learned early on is to have the right tool for the job. Never buy cheap cast wrenches, etc. They will cost you money and get you hurt. I don't use Vicegrips very much, although they have their place. One thing my ex father-in-law taught me was that there is never anything you can screw up so badly that it can't be fixed (except maybe a marriage). |
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