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#11
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"SoCalMike" > wrote
> Elle wrote: > > > > These OEM filters are tiny in diameter, though. I assume I have the correct > > ones and will compare their heads to some generic ones today at Wal-Mart, > > "spec'd" for Honda. I have to find a cap wrench to fit them, as neither of > > the two sizes of small cap wrenches I have fit. > > i gave up on cap wrenches. theyre nice if you stick with identical > filters. ive found the "pliers-style" oil filter wrench from harbor > freight works on just about anything. Yeahbut now I have three laying around that fit the various brands of 91 Honda Civic acceptable oil filters... Wal-Mart had a perfect cap wrench for my new OEM filters for three dollars. Maybe when I get my Honda Jazz, Toyota Echo, or Scion I'll check out what Harbor Freight has. (Aside: The staff of a new Honda dealership near me have never heard of the Jazz.) |
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#12
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Elle wrote:
> Maybe when I get my Honda Jazz, Toyota Echo, or Scion I'll check out what > Harbor Freight has. (Aside: The staff of a new Honda dealership near me have > never heard of the Jazz.) cool thing about the echo/scion 1.5l engine is that the oil filter is at the bottom front. to change the filter on my moms scion, i just lay down on the driveway, reach my hand behind the bumper, and twist it off with a gloved hand. no tools needed at all! and since its low and toward the front, oil doesnt drip down (name your favorite place): a)your arms b)the engine block c)the exhaust pipe/manifold |
#13
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SoCalMike wrote:
> Elle wrote: > > Maybe when I get my Honda Jazz, Toyota Echo, or Scion I'll check > > out what Harbor Freight has. (Aside: The staff of a new Honda > > dealership near me have never heard of the Jazz.) > > cool thing about the echo/scion 1.5l engine is that the oil filter > is at the bottom front. to change the filter on my moms scion, i > just lay down on the driveway, reach my hand behind the bumper, and > twist it off with a gloved hand. no tools needed at all! and since > its low and toward the front, oil doesnt drip down (name your > favorite place): > > a)your arms > b)the engine block > c)the exhaust pipe/manifold The only problem is the possibility that a rock can damage a filter, which isn't as "robust" as other components on the underside. My latest car is a WRX, and it's just as easy once the underspoiler is removed, but when attached, it will protect the filter against debris. I remember the pain in the butt that was my '95 Integra GS-R oil change. I didn't have jack stands, so I did it halfway between the garage and an inclined driveway. If I parked it just right, I could slip in between a little triangular opening. Of course I used wheel chocks. Then I used aluminum foil to make a custom funnel to route oil past the left front axle and CV boot. The perfect cap tool for the OEM filter (15400-PR3-014/15400-P0H- 305/etc) was a Flotool Graphite #3. However - once the filter was spun off, there was no clearance to pull off the cap, since the oil cooler took an additional 3/4" of space. I'd remove the cap once the filter was off. Of course my WRX has its own set of problems, like almost no source for a proper cap wrench for the 67mm OEM filter, and limited clearance around the filter to use my claw or band wrench. But once the filter is off it doesn't spill everywhere. |
#14
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> I remember the pain in the butt that was my '95 Integra GS-R oil > change. I didn't have jack stands, so I did it halfway between > the garage and an inclined driveway. If I parked it just right, > I could slip in between a little triangular opening. Of course > I used wheel chocks. Then I used aluminum foil to make a custom > funnel to route oil past the left front axle and CV boot. The > perfect cap tool for the OEM filter (15400-PR3-014/15400-P0H- > 305/etc) was a Flotool Graphite #3. However - once the filter > was spun off, there was no clearance to pull off the cap, since > the oil cooler took an additional 3/4" of space. I'd remove the > cap once the filter was off. Yeah changing the oil filter on the smaller Honda enigines is a PITA with the filter high on the back of the block. Now I pop off the front driver tire after I drain the pan which makes accessing the filter and reinstalling the drain plug a lot easier. Dirty oil going up your sleeve and landing in your armpit hair is just nasty! |
#15
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"> > Yeah changing the oil filter on the smaller Honda enigines is a PITA with > the filter high on the back of the block. Now I pop off the front driver > tire after I drain the pan which makes accessing the filter and > reinstalling the drain plug a lot easier. Dirty oil going up your sleeve > and landing in your armpit hair is just nasty! Edit: remove the front *passenger* tire |
#16
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My 2 cents.
Filter wrench is good as long as they don't change the filter on you which is what happened to me and now I have a useless oil filter wrench (used only twice). Now I just use my hand to hand loose and hand tighten. works everytime. the civic is easy to get to. the crv is a different story. isn't the honda brand oil filter ~$5? "Elle" > wrote in message news > "Ron" > wrote >> The best filter is the Filtech. > > All right, thanks. > >> Check your local dealer, I can buy the >> filter for $5 (filtech) locally. > > I will, but I am not optimistic. They want IIRC 59 cents for the oil drain > bolt crush washer. > >> The wrench is worth every penny, it is >> about $18 -order it. > > Looks like the usual cap wrench, of which I have a few sizes, already, so > I'm not seeing this. > > SL Honda said they no longer sell the "filter set," anyway. > >> "Elle" > wrote >> > "Elle" > wrote >> > >> >> FILTER SET, OIL (TOYO) $4.78 >> >> FILTER, OIL (FILTECH INC.) $5.20 >> >> FILTER, OIL (TOYO) $5.20 >> > >> > Oops. Just checked the drawing. It appears the "filter set" includes a >> > wrench for the filter. I'll call and find out why the price for the set > is >> > less than the price for the Toyo filter by itself. >> > >> > >> > >> >> >> > > |
#17
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The Honda brand oil filter goes for $5.20 (not including shipping/handling)
at SL Honda. It is $6.50 at my nearest dealer's. I paid $3 for a filter wrench at Wal-Mart. Now I have three, each of which fits different brands of filters (e.g. K-Mart's generic; Fram; Shell's top of the line) that fit my 91 Civic. I had a few more filter wrenches before this, for the other cars in my life. Three bucks isn't enough to raise my ire. From my collection acquired since I bought the car, I doubt now I'll ever have to buy another wrench. (I also own a "crusher" wrench, a last resort wrench should the old filter become too tight over time. Saved me twice over 14 years.) I tried to go the 3/4 turn on my latest filter by hand and could not do it. I am a woman; small hands; have to lie on my back under the car with my nose nearly touching the exhaust pipe and my arm kind of weaved between components to get a hand on the filter. I did notice the OEM filters have a torque spec on them: 10-14 Newton Meters, or about 7.4 to 10 foot-lbs, which based on my torquing experience, isn't much, so I can completely believe hand torquing can achieve the 3/4 turn and approx. 7-10 ft-lbs. "t" > wrote > My 2 cents. > Filter wrench is good as long as they don't change the filter on you which > is what happened to me and now I have a useless oil filter wrench (used only > twice). Now I just use my hand to hand loose and hand tighten. works > everytime. the civic is easy to get to. the crv is a different story. > > isn't the honda brand oil filter ~$5? |
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