92 Voyager-Possible Wiring Problems-Need Help!

Really need some help, as I am stumped over these problems.

Acquired 92 Voyager AWD. I have no turn signals, tho the hazard lights
do work. They use the same multi-function blinker switch.

I have no AC fan or heater blower motor. Fuses check out OK.

The good thing...it does run and drives out nicely.

Any and all help, suggestions sincerely appreciated. I'm stumped!!

P.S. There is juice at the bulkhead connector. So my deduction is: The
problem is in the wiring harness from the bulkhead to the engine
compartment wiring. Swapping out a wiring harness from a 93, same
engine, tranny, etc.

If there's something I might be missing before tearing out the wiring,
please let me know.

Many, Many Thanks!



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Ted: No, didn't check at blower motor because of access. As stsated,
there is juice at the firewall bulkhead, so I surmise there is an
issue with turn signal wiring in the engine compartment wiring.

As you can understand, I don't want to keep playing 'poke and hope'
with this vehicle forever. It's been nearly two months of trying just
about everything under the sun. Have the Chrysler shop manual, which
has been tremendous help. How can you be sure it's the turn signal
switch? BTW, the wipers do work

Looking forward to your followup. Thank You for your time and help.


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"CaravanGuy" > wrote in message
...
> Ted: No, didn't check at blower motor because of access. As stsated,
> there is juice at the firewall bulkhead, so I surmise there is an
> issue with turn signal wiring in the engine compartment wiring.
>
> As you can understand, I don't want to keep playing 'poke and hope'
> with this vehicle forever. It's been nearly two months of trying just
> about everything under the sun. Have the Chrysler shop manual, which
> has been tremendous help. How can you be sure it's the turn signal
> switch? BTW, the wipers do work
>

Because a switch is a mechanical device and that's going to fail a lot
faster than wires, that just sit there. Sure it's possible that the wires
brushed up against an exhaust manifold or some such, but you can easily
check for that.

Do yourself a favor and go to an electronics shop and get some real
test probes. There's probes that have needles for the tip and a thing
that captures the wire so it is easy to test for the presense of power
without tearing apart everything. Remove the lower drivers dash and
find the turn signal wires from the switch, actuate the turn signals and
see if you see power coming from the switch, I will bet you won't.

Ted

Ted: Going to pull a switch at my friendly bone yard this morning.
It's possible the heater switch is bad, so I'll pull that. I should
tell you there was a break in a fusible link, which I repaired. I had
originally thought this was the problem, but have triple checked and
there's juice running thru the new link.

I'll let U know what happens.

I hope this cures the problem (s). Thank You for your help.

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Ted: Installed another switch I got from our local boneyard, and
nothing. No change. Didn't have time to get to Radio Shack for tester,
as you described. I satill think the problem is not under the dash,
but using a proper tester will tell all.

I got another heater/AC switch, but did not install it until the solve
the turn signal situation. Any other suggestions appreciated.



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"Ted Mittelstaedt" > wrote in message
>
> Because a switch is a mechanical device and that's going to fail a lot
> faster than wires, that just sit there. Sure it's possible that the wires
> brushed up against an exhaust manifold or some such, but you can easily
> check for that.
>
> Do yourself a favor and go to an electronics shop and get some real
> test probes. There's probes that have needles for the tip and a thing
> that captures the wire so it is easy to test for the presense of power
> without tearing apart everything. Remove the lower drivers dash and
> find the turn signal wires from the switch, actuate the turn signals and
> see if you see power coming from the switch, I will bet you won't.
>
> Ted
>

My 90 Acclaim lost it's turn signals a couple weeks ago. There was power to
the fuse block but I couldn't get the lights to come on, even if I flipped
the turn switch manually. Had the hardest time locating the relay but once I
found it that was the problem. The relay had failed in the open position and
wasn't letting any power through the circuit. The OP mentioned that his
emergency flashers worked and might not realize that they are two different
relays.

Mark R

Mark: I replaced the relay and the turn signals still would not work.
I bought a couple of testers today and it's back to the drawing board.
I have current at the fuse panel for the turn signals and hazards. I
cannot seem to narrow it down. I'm trying now to see if the feed wire
for the turn signals is the same as the AC and heater blower motor.
That isn't working either. I have swapped out another entire AC/Heater
switch. That didn't solve that problem. The rear defogger isn't
working, either. That's probably going to be a pain in the butt.

Some folks on this forum have said it's possible each of these
components failed and were never replaced. That's possible, but I
think highly improbable.

This 92 AWD van has other issues as well. For whatever reason, both
front doors were replaced with an 89 and 90 door. None of them is the
same. Got a build sheet from my local dealer which says this thing
came with power locks and power mirrors. The wires were cut in the
harness between the door and the body and the doors replaced. WHY, I
have no idea.

This is proving to be a nightmare, in terms of time and money spent to
date. I paid $450 for the van. It was in some sort of accident because
the passenger side fender is mangled up. Otherwise, the body is nice!
Interior is dirty because of rug rats. The interior was full of candy
wrappers and such when I got it! There is no body rust, as it came
from Southern Idaho, where they don't use salt. Red in color. Know
anyone who wants to buy a project vehicle. I'm losing interest. Engine
and tranny are excellent, btw.

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"CaravanGuy" > wrote in message
...
> Mark: I replaced the relay and the turn signals still would not work.
> I bought a couple of testers today and it's back to the drawing board.
> I have current at the fuse panel for the turn signals and hazards. I
> cannot seem to narrow it down. I'm trying now to see if the feed wire
> for the turn signals is the same as the AC and heater blower motor.
> That isn't working either. I have swapped out another entire AC/Heater
> switch. That didn't solve that problem. The rear defogger isn't
> working, either. That's probably going to be a pain in the butt.
>
> Some folks on this forum have said it's possible each of these
> components failed and were never replaced. That's possible, but I
> think highly improbable.
>
> This 92 AWD van has other issues as well. For whatever reason, both
> front doors were replaced with an 89 and 90 door. None of them is the
> same. Got a build sheet from my local dealer which says this thing
> came with power locks and power mirrors. The wires were cut in the
> harness between the door and the body and the doors replaced. WHY, I
> have no idea.
>

Uh, oh. I wish you had mentioned that. Did they just cut them and leave
the hacked off ends free to short against the body or did they do a nice job
of tying them off so they woudn't get into trouble?

I don't know that you can get decent probes at Radio Shack. Here I can
get them at Fry's Electronics, or a distributor in town who sells to
electronic
repair people. If your town isn't large you won't have that and will have
to
order the stuff online.

When you pulled the turn signal switch did you test the wires going to the
switch for the presense of power? If there was no power to the switch
then you will have to work backwards through the wiring harness. That is
where the needle probes come in handy. Of course you can do the same
thing with ordinary pins, but it's more tricky. And naturally that probably
means the entire dash has to come out which if your 92 is anything like my
94 it is a lot of time and effort.

> This is proving to be a nightmare, in terms of time and money spent to
> date. I paid $450 for the van. It was in some sort of accident because
> the passenger side fender is mangled up. Otherwise, the body is nice!
> Interior is dirty because of rug rats. The interior was full of candy
> wrappers and such when I got it! There is no body rust, as it came
> from Southern Idaho, where they don't use salt. Red in color. Know
> anyone who wants to buy a project vehicle.

I just bought a project van myself a few months ago.

Ted

They cut the wires, Ted, and left them in the rubber boot. The ends
were not taped off at all. Something could have shorted out in the
instrument panel, and yes, you are correct. it may entail tearing
apart the entiredash to get to anything.

My town is only 20 thousand people, and unfortunately, we don't have
every convenience big city folks have. We just got a Super WalMart
opened last month. Radio Shack is a skeleton of what's in larger
cities.

I think you understand the gravity of this situation. I'm thinking
it's better to cut my losses and find another car and use this one for
parts.



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"CaravanGuy" > wrote in message
...
> They cut the wires, Ted, and left them in the rubber boot. The ends
> were not taped off at all. Something could have shorted out in the
> instrument panel, and yes, you are correct. it may entail tearing
> apart the entiredash to get to anything.
>
> My town is only 20 thousand people, and unfortunately, we don't have
> every convenience big city folks have. We just got a Super WalMart
> opened last month. Radio Shack is a skeleton of what's in larger
> cities.
>
> I think you understand the gravity of this situation. I'm thinking
> it's better to cut my losses and find another car and use this one for
> parts.
>

Well sleep on it a few days before deciding anything you may change your
mind. A lot of this depends on what you intended to get when you bought it.

If the goal was to buy a puzzle and put it together then you just need to
take
a breather for a week or so and come back at at again, you will learn and
the sense of satisfaction when you find the problem will be worth it, trust
me.

But if the goal was to get a great deal on some cheap wheels with a minimum
of effort, then I can understand your wanting to cut your losses. If you
think you
can still sell it for the same $450 you paid for it then that might be the
best way.
Or you could just mount some cheap trailer lights on it and put a separate
switch
near the drivers position - there's no law that says that the turn signals
have to
be actuated from the stalk switch, after all. Who cares what it looks like
it's a
$450 vehicle, right? ;-) And after you get another 20K miles out of it and
the
transmission goes kaput, you can probably pull the engine and use it or sell
it for
what you paid for the entire van, and have the last laugh, right?

If you haven't seen this, here's my project minivan, this is my puzzle and
so far
it's been fun. I also have to tear the entire dash out in it but that is
not because
of wiring. It is because at some long past time in the van's history the
airbags
exploded and while they did replace the bag in the steering column, they did
a
total hack job on the passenger side, and the passenger dash is still torn
up.
I bought the dash pieces and air bag from a U pull it wrecking yard (correct
color and everything) for about $30 and I have the factory manual and used
that to pull
the dash at the wrecker. Chrysler thoughtfully designed the dash so that
everything
overlaps everything else so you have to take ALL of it off to get at the
screws you
need to get at. But, when I get done with it, the inside will look the way
it
should:

http://www.freebsd-corp-net-guide.co...s/project.html


Ted