I have a new Caravan transmission for under $100

I asked for the gasket too at the dealer assuming the gasket was standard in
the change and they said there is no gasket for that unit, just use sealant.

Gary

"Bill Putney" > wrote in message
...
> gary wrote:
>
>
>> ...BTW next edition of your tips, you might mention to remember to
>> replace the magnet after cleaning the pan, for the odd weekend mechanic
>> like me. I lined up the pan after putting the sealant on and ran a
>> couple of bolts into it when I had the sinking thought that I didn't
>> remember replacing the magnet........ added a little extra work.....sigh.
>
> And...next edition, he might mention the metal sandwich pan gasket you can
> get from the dealer - re-useable and none of the mess of the silicone
> sealer - would have been less traumatic when you had to take it off again
> for that magnet. Much easier in taking the pan off next time, and no
> clean up of sealing surfaces.
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> adddress with the letter 'x')

"Bill Putney" > wrote in message
...
> gary wrote:
>
>
> > ...BTW next edition of your
> > tips, you might mention to remember to replace the magnet after cleaning
the
> > pan, for the odd weekend mechanic like me. I lined up the pan after
putting
> > the sealant on and ran a couple of bolts into it when I had the sinking
> > thought that I didn't remember replacing the magnet........ added a
little
> > extra work.....sigh.
>
> And...next edition, he might mention the metal sandwich pan gasket you
> can get from the dealer - re-useable and none of the mess of the
> silicone sealer - would have been less traumatic when you had to take it
> off again for that magnet. Much easier in taking the pan off next time,
> and no clean up of sealing surfaces.

Heh - I'll write these suggestions up and mail them to Allpar, good
suggestions!

I think in a properly running a604/41te you really aren't going to see much
in the
way of metal particles on the magnet - mostly kind of a sludge of very fine
particles.
I think if you see large chunks or slivers the thing is toasted.

Ted

There is a gasket, but dealers do not use them ... Next time ask them to
check again for the metal/silicone re-usable gasket. (They told me the same
thing...) I've posted the part numbers are in previous threads if you do a
Google search.

Bob

"gary" > wrote in message
news:EFSEe.27798$5V4.4085@pd7tw3no...
> I asked for the gasket too at the dealer assuming the gasket was standard
in
> the change and they said there is no gasket for that unit, just use
sealant.
>
> Gary

On Sun, 24 Jul 2005, gary wrote:

> I asked for the gasket too at the dealer assuming the gasket was standard in
> the change and they said there is no gasket for that unit, just use sealant.

You need to use the CORRECT sealant, not just any RTV. There is a
particular RTV, available from the Mopar parts counter, that has chemistry
specifically compatible with ATF.

"Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message
.umich.edu...
> On Sun, 24 Jul 2005, gary wrote:
>
> > I asked for the gasket too at the dealer assuming the gasket was
standard in
> > the change and they said there is no gasket for that unit, just use
sealant.
>
> You need to use the CORRECT sealant, not just any RTV. There is a
> particular RTV, available from the Mopar parts counter, that has chemistry
> specifically compatible with ATF.
>

What, you mean you can't use bathtub caulk? ;-)

The Mopar sealer is called "ATF-RTV" it's part is MS-GF41 aka 05010884aa

Look on the back in the fine print where the tube says "developed
specifically
to retain sealing when exposed to automatic transmission fluid"

By the way, Permatex Ultra Black and Ultra Blue both claim resistance to
ATF.

Ted

In article <9nEEe.25144$5V4.5789@pd7tw3no>, says...
>
>
>A year and a half ago I was in an accident with my 2000 grand caravan 3.8L
>4sp. (not my fault). Tranny fluid spewed everywhere. Got the van repaired
>and it shifted slightly rough after that. I assumed it was because of the
>accident but never pursued it.
>
>A month and a half ago my solenoid pack went. Van in for repair. Got it
>back and it had extremely hard shifting. It would make the whole van
>chatter from 2nd to 3rd and coins in the ashtray would dance. Even shifting
>down to 1st would cause a jerk of the vehicle. I did some internet research
>and found that they might not have retrained the computer. Also found that
>I have to have ATF+4 in there. Went back to my invoice and see that they
>used 3 quarts of Quaker State FLM fluid. Did another internet search
>yesterday and found on Quaker States site...
>
>"Type F (FLM)- Specially compounded fluid that meets the latest Ford
>ESW-M2C33F specifications, and is compatible with all M2C33 series Ford
>specs. All 1983 and later model Ford automatic transmissions use Quaker
>State® DEXRON®-III/ MERCON® or MERCON® V automatic transmission fluids."
>
>I have Ford tranny fluid in there!!! I put 2 and 2 together and maybe my
>bad shifting in the 1st place was what the body shop used for fluid and got
>worse by the addition of FLM. WOW. I found a site at
>www.allpar.com/eek/atf.html that says rough shifting can be caused by the
>wrong fluid and gives directions on how to clear that up. Basically I
>dropped the pan and changed the filter, cleaned it all up and replaced.
>Added 4 quarts of fluid and then took the lower tranny line off of the rad
>and pumped another 5 quarts out that way and replaced with new.
>
>Took it for a spin and it was like I was driving a brand new vehicle. I had
>gotten so used to the hard shifts and cringing when it came to a shift
>change that I forgot what it was like to drive a smooth vehicle. I took it
>out for several spins after and it was so smooth I could hardly tell where
>the shift change was.
>
>I'm writing this for anyone who has hard shifting and might want to know a
>cure. It was so simple. I feel like I am driving a new vehicle after a
>year and a half. If your vehicle calls for ATF4+ only use ATF4+ do not use
>a substitute and from what I gather do not use an additive that "converts"
>it to ATF4+.

I hope you send a bill to the repair shop for all the work you did.
----------------
Alex

Funny thing is I told him I know Chrysler trannys are sensitive to the type
of ATF they use, so when you top it up, could you write on the bill what
type of tranny fluid I should be using in it. (I did not know it was ATF4+
at the time). So when I got the bill - it said Type F (FLM) for Chrysler 4
speed trannys.

Should we be using a special coolant too in that engine (3.8L)?


"Alex Rodriguez" > wrote in message
...
> In article <9nEEe.25144$5V4.5789@pd7tw3no>,
> says...
>>
>>
>>A year and a half ago I was in an accident with my 2000 grand caravan 3.8L
>>4sp. (not my fault). Tranny fluid spewed everywhere. Got the van
>>repaired
>>and it shifted slightly rough after that. I assumed it was because of the
>>accident but never pursued it.
>>
>>A month and a half ago my solenoid pack went. Van in for repair. Got it
>>back and it had extremely hard shifting. It would make the whole van
>>chatter from 2nd to 3rd and coins in the ashtray would dance. Even
>>shifting
>>down to 1st would cause a jerk of the vehicle. I did some internet
>>research
>>and found that they might not have retrained the computer. Also found
>>that
>>I have to have ATF+4 in there. Went back to my invoice and see that they
>>used 3 quarts of Quaker State FLM fluid. Did another internet search
>>yesterday and found on Quaker States site...
>>
>>"Specially compounded fluid that meets the latest Ford
>>ESW-M2C33F specifications, and is compatible with all M2C33 series Ford
>>specs. All 1983 and later model Ford automatic transmissions use Quaker
>>State® DEXRON®-III/ MERCON® or MERCON® V automatic transmission fluids."
>>
>>I have Ford tranny fluid in there!!! I put 2 and 2 together and maybe my
>>bad shifting in the 1st place was what the body shop used for fluid and
>>got
>>worse by the addition of FLM. WOW. I found a site at
>>www.allpar.com/eek/atf.html that says rough shifting can be caused by the
>>wrong fluid and gives directions on how to clear that up. Basically I
>>dropped the pan and changed the filter, cleaned it all up and replaced.
>>Added 4 quarts of fluid and then took the lower tranny line off of the rad
>>and pumped another 5 quarts out that way and replaced with new.
>>
>>Took it for a spin and it was like I was driving a brand new vehicle. I
>>had
>>gotten so used to the hard shifts and cringing when it came to a shift
>>change that I forgot what it was like to drive a smooth vehicle. I took
>>it
>>out for several spins after and it was so smooth I could hardly tell where
>>the shift change was.
>>
>>I'm writing this for anyone who has hard shifting and might want to know a
>>cure. It was so simple. I feel like I am driving a new vehicle after a
>>year and a half. If your vehicle calls for ATF4+ only use ATF4+ do not
>>use
>>a substitute and from what I gather do not use an additive that "converts"
>>it to ATF4+.
>
> I hope you send a bill to the repair shop for all the work you did.
> ----------------
> Alex
>

On Sat, 30 Jul 2005, gary wrote:

> Should we be using a special coolant too in that engine (3.8L)?

Yes, your van (all '98-up Chrysler products, too) requires G-05 coolant.

Can this be bought aftermarket or only through a dealer?

"Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message
n.umich.edu...
> On Sat, 30 Jul 2005, gary wrote:
>
>> Should we be using a special coolant too in that engine (3.8L)?
>
> Yes, your van (all '98-up Chrysler products, too) requires G-05 coolant.

gary wrote:

> Can this be bought aftermarket or only through a dealer?
>
> "Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message
> n.umich.edu...
>
>>On Sat, 30 Jul 2005, gary wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Should we be using a special coolant too in that engine (3.8L)?
>>
>>Yes, your van (all '98-up Chrysler products, too) requires G-05 coolant.

Four sources that I know of (there may be more):

(1) Mopar brand from the DC dealer - their long-life stuff - it is
reddish-orange colored, but it is G-05 (not DexCool™, which you
definitely don't want)
(2) Ford Motorcraft brand at Ford dealers - bright yellow color
(3) Shell aftermarket - bright yellow color
(4) Zerex aftermarket - bright yellow color

It can be hard to find in the auto parts stores in the Shell and Zerex.
You might try places that service trucks (it is diesel approved) or
police cars. I don't hink it will be significantly cheaper at one place
or another - around $12-$13 everywhere I've seen it, including dealers.
If you've got a Ford dealer nearby, might as well get it there - I
like the bright yellow color - looks nice in a new pressure bottle.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
adddress with the letter 'x')