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#1
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1991 Civic warm up time
This is the 3rd winter I have owned this 1991
Civic. The first winter I owned it I replaced the OEM thermostat because it took way too long to warm up, and on really cold (-12F) days, the engine temp gauge dipped when I would run the heater wide open. It hasn't been that cold since so I don't know if I fixed that little problem. In sept I adjusted the valves so I changed the thermostat again. Again OEM. Now that winter is here, 10F today, the engine still takes to long to warm up. This is the first Honda car I have owned. I used to ride motorcylcles, but in realy cold wether they never warm up! This morning I started the engine, scrapped the windows and after I got back int he car I had to wait 10 minutes before the inside windows un froze/fogged. I placed a lab grqde Omega thermocouple on the inlet to the heater coil and the heater exhaust air temp pretty much matched the inlet temp. My 1985 Celica produced heat much sooner. But the Celica had a much larger engine. I felt the radiator hose and it did not warm up until after the engine temp guage started to climb. I wish I had a multi channel lab grade thermoter, but I can only measure anyone point with real accuracy I would like to monitor and record the heater coil inlet/exhasut temps, the inlet/exhaust air temps and the radiator inlet/exuast temps. But in the meantime it looks like the themrostat is doing it's job and that the heater core is fine. Any ideas on what is happening here? Terry |
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#4
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TeGGer=AE wrote: > floridly penned in > oups.com: > > > > I have debated forcing the engine to a higher cold start idle, > > > I wouldn't do that. > > > > which ought to warm it up faster. Any downside, other then fuel > > consumption? > > > Don't know, but it doesn't sound like a good idea. > > > Your car is reaching operating temperature at a normal rate. > > I have the same problem (and always have) with my Integra, of windows that > fog up easily until the heater begins putting out heat. The only answer > I've been able to find is to run the blower full-blast on recirc and cross > my fingers, an approach that is only marginally effective. > > Usually I have to either scrape off the ice by hand or pull over and wait > for a sliver of clear windshield to appear at the bottom. > > -- > TeGGeR=AE > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ > www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ My problen is I live 1000mtrs from the highspeed highway that I have to use to get to work. It is downright frightening to try to drive when every headlight produces a "white out". Even when I drive slowly in first gear it still doesn't get warm enough to be safe. While I don't want to hurt the car, or even to waste the gasoline, I am forced to the conclusion that this is safer then trying to drive blind. I have palced a 500 watt heater in the car and I intend to see if I can shave some warmup time by starting it 10 minutes before I start the car. Terry |
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#6
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#7
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Well my bright plan to use a 500 watt heater before
starting was foiled by an overnight temp rise from 20F to 40F. I was so disapointed. Not. But Christmas Eve and day ought to be a good test. Temps are forecast to be 0 or below. I had hoped to change the gasket, but I think it will have to wait a few days! Terry |
#8
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maybe you should just wake up a few minutes earlier and let the car
warm up, or get a block heater? |
#9
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The "problem" is that it takes about 10~15 minutes on "really"
cold (<10F) mornings. The common wisdom is that allowing any modern engine to idle that long is a bad idea. The oil will become loaded with unburnt combustion byproducts. If need be, I will change the oil once a month until spring gets here. The issue comes down to what to risk? The engine? Or tme and the rest fo the car? I have ordered a block heater, but it will not arrive until next week. And Christmas is going to have temps of around 0F. A friend has suggested a catolytic propane heater, but I want any "fire" to be in the cyliners! Terry |
#10
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We visit our favorite restraunt in a town about an
hour away every Sunday afternoon. Today I had to let her idle for about 25~30 minutes. 1/4" of ice was difficult to fight. I had to climb in through the rear hatch and as I am 6'1" it was interesting. The doors wouldn't budge from the inside. I managed to use Lysol, 99% alcohol to break through the ice. This ice was the tuffest I have ever fought. I tried to scrape the windshield, but this ice thoguht it was a diamond coating. Even with the defrost on, I used one can of lysol getting the ice off. I had 2 gallons of isopropal in my storage building, but the lock and door was iced over as well. Alcohol is a lot cheaper then Lysol, but Lysol is much cheaper then a new door handle. I just read wher one guy broke his door handle off trying to force it in the ice. Snow is nasty, but at least you can fight it. Ice is a real pain. But at least we didn't get 16" like some places just north-west of us! |
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