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1991 Lebaron rear end rattle



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 7th 05, 09:51 AM
GAlan
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Default 1991 Lebaron rear end rattle

"Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in
n.umich.edu:

> On Fri, 16 Jul 2004, User wrote:
>
>> I have a 1991 Le baron and the rear rattles. Upon further
>> investigation I found that the rear sway bar was banging the axle
>> causing the rattle. how do I stop this rattle.

>
> Very common failure on all the K-derivatives except the Spirit R/T and
> IROC R/T. On all others, the tubular sway bar breaks at its weld(s) to
> the trailing arm channel ends, and/or splits longitudinally. This
> causes different kinds of squeaks, creaks, sproings, clunks and
> rattles depending on how and where the failure(s) occur(s).
>
> The factory fix is a new trailing arm assembly -- $$$.
>
> The better fix is to have a competent welder remove the failed tubular
> bar, clean up the channel ends and weld in a correct-length round
> piece of solid spring steel. If the welding is done correctly, this
> results in a permanent fix and better handling.


How about some more info on this bar, such as diameter and type
of steel, torsional properties etc?

A "correct-length round piece of solid spring steel" covers a
very large range of metal properties!
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  #2  
Old March 7th 05, 04:29 PM
Daniel J. Stern
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Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 7 Mar 2005, GAlan wrote:

> "Daniel J. Stern" > wrote:


> >> I have a 1991 Le baron and the rear rattles. Upon further
> >> investigation I found that the rear sway bar was banging the axle
> >> causing the rattle. how do I stop this rattle.

> >
> > Very common failure on all the K-derivatives except the Spirit R/T and
> > IROC R/T. On all others, the tubular sway bar breaks at its weld(s) to
> > the trailing arm channel ends, and/or splits longitudinally. This
> > causes different kinds of squeaks, creaks, sproings, clunks and
> > rattles depending on how and where the failure(s) occur(s).
> >
> > The factory fix is a new trailing arm assembly -- $$$.
> >
> > The better fix is to have a competent welder remove the failed tubular
> > bar, clean up the channel ends and weld in a correct-length round
> > piece of solid spring steel. If the welding is done correctly, this
> > results in a permanent fix and better handling.

>
> How about some more info on this bar, such as diameter and type of
> steel, torsional properties etc? A "correct-length round piece of solid
> spring steel" covers a very large range of metal properties!


Not really. It's not as though you have to reroute auxiliary power via the
ODN conduits to the secondary EPS relays or anything. All you have to do
is pick or make a good quality steel bar of the correct length. It should
be round in cross section.

Lots of people have figured this out. You can, too.

DS
 




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