If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Setting Toe
Elle wrote:
> > "Eric" > wrote > > Elle wrote: > >> > >> Without serious modifications, my 91 Civic (among other > >> Honda models) permits only one alignment angle to be > >> adjusted: Toe. > >> > >> Has anyone here set the toe themselves? If so, what tools > >> did you use or devise? Was your effort successful as > >> indicated by tire wear and steering feel? > >> > > > > [snip] > > > > If you've had the rear trailing arms replaced, then you > > need to have the > > rear toe adjusted. > > I personally replaced the trailing arm bushings on Monday. > I'm just a little bit curious. Exactly which bushings are you referring to, the ones labeled as part #12 in this diagram http://tinyurl.com/fwt4y or the large one in the middle of the rear trailing arm through which bolt #26 goes to help mount the trailing arm to the car? Eric |
Ads |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Setting Toe
"Eric" > wrote
> Elle wrote: >> I personally replaced the trailing arm bushings on >> Monday. >> > > I'm just a little bit curious. Exactly which bushings are > you referring to, > the ones labeled as part #12 in this diagram > http://tinyurl.com/fwt4y or the > large one in the middle of the rear trailing arm through > which bolt #26 goes > to help mount the trailing arm to the car? I replaced both, but the one to which I refer above is the larger one (with bolts #26 going through it), Honda part #52385-SR3000 , only available in the last several years or so. Schley produced a special (and super fast and super effective) tool for removing it only in the last couple of years. I have a fuller discussion at the bottom of http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lio...tml#tabushings , with some links to excellent sites with photos of the process. The bigger TA bushing is replaced with the TA in place, for the most part. That is, no brake lines need be disconnected and plugged nor bled. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Setting Toe
"Elle" > wrote in
ink.net: > > The bigger TA bushing is replaced with the TA in place, for > the most part. That is, no brake lines need be disconnected > and plugged nor bled. > > The brake lines and hydraulics don't need to be disconnected when you remove the trailing arm. Everything including the parking brake either unbolts or unhooks. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Setting Toe
"TeGGeR®" > wrote
> "Elle" > wrote >> The bigger TA bushing is replaced with the TA in place, >> for >> the most part. That is, no brake lines need be >> disconnected >> and plugged nor bled. >> >> > > > The brake lines and hydraulics don't need to be > disconnected when you > remove the trailing arm. Everything including the parking > brake either > unbolts or unhooks. I meant those who intend to take the trailing arm to a shop or put it into a vise to press out the big bushing (and then install a new one) would have to disconnect the brake lines. With the (relatively new) Schley tool, only five bolts need be removed. |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Setting Toe
"Elle" > wrote in
ink.net: > "TeGGeR®" > wrote >> "Elle" > wrote >>> The bigger TA bushing is replaced with the TA in place, >>> for >>> the most part. That is, no brake lines need be >>> disconnected >>> and plugged nor bled. >>> >>> >> >> >> The brake lines and hydraulics don't need to be >> disconnected when you >> remove the trailing arm. Everything including the parking >> brake either >> unbolts or unhooks. > > I meant those who intend to take the trailing arm to a shop > or put it into a vise to press out the big bushing (and then > install a new one) would have to disconnect the brake lines. It just occurred to me: You're partially right. Opening the hydraulics *would* be necessary on a drum-brake car if you were to remove the trailing arm from the car entirely. If you had rear *disc* brakes, you do *not* need to open the hydraulics. Finally I find ONE advantage to having rear disc brakes! LOL > > With the (relatively new) Schley tool, only five bolts need > be removed. > Sounds like a boon for drum-brake equipped cars. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
Setting Toe
"TeGGeR®" > wrote in message
... > Finally I find ONE advantage to having rear disc brakes! LOL > I'm a lurker in a.a.h., and I have noticed that you seem very knowledgable. So, your comment about rear disc breake intrigues me. I thought rear discs were desirable? If not, why not? Thanks, -- R Flowers |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Setting Toe
"TeGGeR®" > wrote
> "Elle" > wrote >> "TeGGeR®" > wrote >>> "Elle" > wrote >>>> The bigger TA bushing is replaced with the TA in place, >>>> for >>>> the most part. That is, no brake lines need be >>>> disconnected >>>> and plugged nor bled. >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> The brake lines and hydraulics don't need to be >>> disconnected when you >>> remove the trailing arm. Everything including the >>> parking >>> brake either >>> unbolts or unhooks. >> >> I meant those who intend to take the trailing arm to a >> shop >> or put it into a vise to press out the big bushing (and >> then >> install a new one) would have to disconnect the brake >> lines. > > > > It just occurred to me: You're partially right. Opening > the hydraulics > *would* be necessary on a drum-brake car if you were to > remove the trailing > arm from the car entirely. If you had rear *disc* brakes, > you do *not* need > to open the hydraulics. > > Finally I find ONE advantage to having rear disc brakes! > LOL Yes, I was only talking about drums as well as thinking of the coupla sites that talk about how this new tool makes life easier. Guess they too were only thinking of drums. I trust you are correct about the discs. I hadn't thought about it. >> With the (relatively new) Schley tool, only five bolts >> need >> be removed. >> > > > Sounds like a boon for drum-brake equipped cars. Yes, I'm sure you can tell I'm just tickled about it. Best $140 I've spent. Of course, the job's not done until all is newly aligned... |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Setting Toe
"R Flowers" > wrote in
m: > "TeGGeR®" > wrote in message > ... >> Finally I find ONE advantage to having rear disc brakes! LOL >> > > I'm a lurker in a.a.h., and I have noticed that you seem very > knowledgable. I pretend well, huh? > So, your comment about rear disc breake intrigues me. I > thought rear discs were desirable? If not, why not? > Rear dics brakes in a FWD car are desirable to the marketing department. Buyers tend to get a woody over them because they sound so hi-tech and sporty. They enable the sales department to have greater success liberating greenbacks from your wallet. Rear discs in a road-going FWD car are otherwise utterly useless and trouble-prone. They never work hard enough to get very hot, so they rust, seize and wear out with distressing haste and regularity unless the car is used in SoCal or Arizona. Any more questions? -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Setting Toe
"TeGGeR®" > wrote in message
... > Rear dics brakes in a FWD car are desirable to the marketing department. > Buyers tend to get a woody over them because they sound so hi-tech and > sporty. > > Any more questions? > No, just a comment. I guess their marketing worked well, because I didn't even think about it. Back in the old days, many cars had drums all around. Then the front 2 discs came out, and I guess people thought "Well, if 2 are good, let's do all 4!" I remember sports cars in the 70s and 80s touting their 4 wheel discs. -- R Flowers |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Setting Toe
Elle wrote:
> > "Eric" > wrote > > Elle wrote: > >> I personally replaced the trailing arm bushings on Monday. > > > > I'm just a little bit curious. Exactly which bushings are > > you referring to, the ones labeled as part #12 in this diagram > > http://tinyurl.com/fwt4y or the large one in the middle of the rear > > trailing arm through which bolt #26 goes to help mount the trailing > > arm to the car? > > I replaced both, but the one to which I refer above is the > larger one (with bolts #26 going through it), Honda part > #52385-SR3000 , only available in the last several years or > so. Schley produced a special (and super fast and super > effective) tool for removing it only in the last couple of > years. I have a fuller discussion at the bottom of > http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lio...tml#tabushings, > with some links to excellent sites with photos of the > process. OK, thanks for clarifying the work that you did. > >> But I gather your advice does not change. No, a four wheel alignment is definitely in order. Eric |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
SPARK PLUG GAP SETTING - 02 PT | pe2 | Chrysler | 1 | December 14th 05 12:14 AM |
90 Accord how to setting idle speed and timing | crw | Honda | 5 | August 5th 05 03:48 AM |
Fan only works on highest setting - 2000 Caravan | Gary | Chrysler | 10 | November 25th 04 07:35 PM |