If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Installed Powertrax No-Slip: IT DOESN'T WORK!
Today I installed the Powertrax No-Slip in my 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 2WD.
It's a regular open differential. The installation, while sometimes challenging for a first-timer, went perfectly. Everything was exactly "by the book." No problemo!!! BUT... Then came time for the final "test." It failed. PLEASE, can anybody help? Here's what happened: To check to see if it's working right, you put the vehicle in gear (e.g. "park"). The wheels won't turn in the same direction at the same time. That's correct. If somebody rolls the driver-side wheel until it stops (a couple of inches) and holds it against the stop, the passenger-side wheel should roll freely in the opposite direction. It should do this in both directions. Then, just the opposite. When somebody holds the passenger-side wheel against the stop, the driver's side wheel should turn freely in the opposite direction. It doesn't. When somebody holds the passenger-side wheel against the stop, and you attempt to rotate the driver-side wheel, the driver-side wheel hits the stop and the PASSENGER side wheel suddenly starts slipping! Any ideas? I'm utterly exasperated. Ron M. |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
In article >, rmorgan7
@austin.rr.com says... > Today I installed the Powertrax No-Slip in my 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 2WD. > It's a regular open differential. > > The installation, while sometimes challenging for a first-timer, went > perfectly. Everything was exactly "by the book." No problemo!!! > BUT... > > Then came time for the final "test." It failed. PLEASE, can anybody > help? > > Here's what happened: > > To check to see if it's working right, you put the vehicle in gear > (e.g. "park"). > > The wheels won't turn in the same direction at the same time. That's > correct. > > If somebody rolls the driver-side wheel until it stops (a couple of > inches) and holds it against the stop, the passenger-side wheel should > roll freely in the opposite direction. It should do this in both > directions. > > Then, just the opposite. When somebody holds the passenger-side wheel > against the stop, the driver's side wheel should turn freely in the > opposite direction. > > It doesn't. When somebody holds the passenger-side wheel against the > stop, and you attempt to rotate the driver-side wheel, the driver-side > wheel hits the stop and the PASSENGER side wheel suddenly starts > slipping! > > Any ideas? I'm utterly exasperated. > > Ron M. > That sounds about right to me, left side slips, diff locks right side and visa-versa. Am I missing something? Does it say to test it like you did in the manual? -- ____________________ Remove "X" from email address to reply. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
In article >, rmorgan7
@austin.rr.com says... > Today I installed the Powertrax No-Slip in my 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 2WD. > It's a regular open differential. > > The installation, while sometimes challenging for a first-timer, went > perfectly. Everything was exactly "by the book." No problemo!!! > BUT... > > Then came time for the final "test." It failed. PLEASE, can anybody > help? > > Here's what happened: > > To check to see if it's working right, you put the vehicle in gear > (e.g. "park"). > > The wheels won't turn in the same direction at the same time. That's > correct. > > If somebody rolls the driver-side wheel until it stops (a couple of > inches) and holds it against the stop, the passenger-side wheel should > roll freely in the opposite direction. It should do this in both > directions. > > Then, just the opposite. When somebody holds the passenger-side wheel > against the stop, the driver's side wheel should turn freely in the > opposite direction. > > It doesn't. When somebody holds the passenger-side wheel against the > stop, and you attempt to rotate the driver-side wheel, the driver-side > wheel hits the stop and the PASSENGER side wheel suddenly starts > slipping! > > Any ideas? I'm utterly exasperated. > > Ron M. > That sounds about right to me, left side slips, diff locks right side and visa-versa. Am I missing something? Does it say to test it like you did in the manual? -- ____________________ Remove "X" from email address to reply. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
have whoever is holding your wheels make sure they are putting some pressure
behind it. You may not be holding it tight enough. "Ron M." > wrote in message om... > Today I installed the Powertrax No-Slip in my 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 2WD. > It's a regular open differential. > > The installation, while sometimes challenging for a first-timer, went > perfectly. Everything was exactly "by the book." No problemo!!! > BUT... > > Then came time for the final "test." It failed. PLEASE, can anybody > help? > > Here's what happened: > > To check to see if it's working right, you put the vehicle in gear > (e.g. "park"). > > The wheels won't turn in the same direction at the same time. That's > correct. > > If somebody rolls the driver-side wheel until it stops (a couple of > inches) and holds it against the stop, the passenger-side wheel should > roll freely in the opposite direction. It should do this in both > directions. > > Then, just the opposite. When somebody holds the passenger-side wheel > against the stop, the driver's side wheel should turn freely in the > opposite direction. > > It doesn't. When somebody holds the passenger-side wheel against the > stop, and you attempt to rotate the driver-side wheel, the driver-side > wheel hits the stop and the PASSENGER side wheel suddenly starts > slipping! > > Any ideas? I'm utterly exasperated. > > Ron M. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
have whoever is holding your wheels make sure they are putting some pressure
behind it. You may not be holding it tight enough. "Ron M." > wrote in message om... > Today I installed the Powertrax No-Slip in my 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 2WD. > It's a regular open differential. > > The installation, while sometimes challenging for a first-timer, went > perfectly. Everything was exactly "by the book." No problemo!!! > BUT... > > Then came time for the final "test." It failed. PLEASE, can anybody > help? > > Here's what happened: > > To check to see if it's working right, you put the vehicle in gear > (e.g. "park"). > > The wheels won't turn in the same direction at the same time. That's > correct. > > If somebody rolls the driver-side wheel until it stops (a couple of > inches) and holds it against the stop, the passenger-side wheel should > roll freely in the opposite direction. It should do this in both > directions. > > Then, just the opposite. When somebody holds the passenger-side wheel > against the stop, the driver's side wheel should turn freely in the > opposite direction. > > It doesn't. When somebody holds the passenger-side wheel against the > stop, and you attempt to rotate the driver-side wheel, the driver-side > wheel hits the stop and the PASSENGER side wheel suddenly starts > slipping! > > Any ideas? I'm utterly exasperated. > > Ron M. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Chris Phillipo > wrote in message > ...
> In article >, rmorgan7 > @austin.rr.com says... > > Today I installed the Powertrax No-Slip in my 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 2WD. > > It's a regular open differential. > > > > The installation, while sometimes challenging for a first-timer, went > > perfectly. Everything was exactly "by the book." No problemo!!! > > BUT... > > > > Then came time for the final "test." It failed. PLEASE, can anybody > > help? > > > > Here's what happened: > > > > To check to see if it's working right, you put the vehicle in gear > > (e.g. "park"). > > > > The wheels won't turn in the same direction at the same time. That's > > correct. > > > > If somebody rolls the driver-side wheel until it stops (a couple of > > inches) and holds it against the stop, the passenger-side wheel should > > roll freely in the opposite direction. It should do this in both > > directions. > > > > Then, just the opposite. When somebody holds the passenger-side wheel > > against the stop, the driver's side wheel should turn freely in the > > opposite direction. > > > > It doesn't. When somebody holds the passenger-side wheel against the > > stop, and you attempt to rotate the driver-side wheel, the driver-side > > wheel hits the stop and the PASSENGER side wheel suddenly starts > > slipping! > > > > Any ideas? I'm utterly exasperated. > > > > Ron M. > > > > > That sounds about right to me, left side slips, diff locks right side > and visa-versa. Am I missing something? Does it say to test it like > you did in the manual? The left side doesn't slip. I can NOT make the left side slip. Only the right (passenger) side can be made to slip. Yep, that's the procedure in the manual: Put it in park: Turn the driver side wheel forward until it stops (a few inches) and hold it firmly against that point. You should not be able to turn the passenger side wheel in that direction, but it should spin freely in the opposite directions. This should happen with both wheels, going in both directions. It doesn't. The driver's side wheel won't disengage. In fact, just giving the passenger side wheel a firm shove will disengage it, even if nobody is even touching the driver's side wheel. I'm calling Powertrax tech support this morning. Hope they can help. I'm really frustrated from this, especially since up to this point, it was a textbook-perfect installation. Ron M. The problem was |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Chris Phillipo > wrote in message > ...
> In article >, rmorgan7 > @austin.rr.com says... > > Today I installed the Powertrax No-Slip in my 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 2WD. > > It's a regular open differential. > > > > The installation, while sometimes challenging for a first-timer, went > > perfectly. Everything was exactly "by the book." No problemo!!! > > BUT... > > > > Then came time for the final "test." It failed. PLEASE, can anybody > > help? > > > > Here's what happened: > > > > To check to see if it's working right, you put the vehicle in gear > > (e.g. "park"). > > > > The wheels won't turn in the same direction at the same time. That's > > correct. > > > > If somebody rolls the driver-side wheel until it stops (a couple of > > inches) and holds it against the stop, the passenger-side wheel should > > roll freely in the opposite direction. It should do this in both > > directions. > > > > Then, just the opposite. When somebody holds the passenger-side wheel > > against the stop, the driver's side wheel should turn freely in the > > opposite direction. > > > > It doesn't. When somebody holds the passenger-side wheel against the > > stop, and you attempt to rotate the driver-side wheel, the driver-side > > wheel hits the stop and the PASSENGER side wheel suddenly starts > > slipping! > > > > Any ideas? I'm utterly exasperated. > > > > Ron M. > > > > > That sounds about right to me, left side slips, diff locks right side > and visa-versa. Am I missing something? Does it say to test it like > you did in the manual? The left side doesn't slip. I can NOT make the left side slip. Only the right (passenger) side can be made to slip. Yep, that's the procedure in the manual: Put it in park: Turn the driver side wheel forward until it stops (a few inches) and hold it firmly against that point. You should not be able to turn the passenger side wheel in that direction, but it should spin freely in the opposite directions. This should happen with both wheels, going in both directions. It doesn't. The driver's side wheel won't disengage. In fact, just giving the passenger side wheel a firm shove will disengage it, even if nobody is even touching the driver's side wheel. I'm calling Powertrax tech support this morning. Hope they can help. I'm really frustrated from this, especially since up to this point, it was a textbook-perfect installation. Ron M. The problem was |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Ok, it's all done. It works FINE.
Talked to Powertrax tech support, they said it was the synchronizer ring; they're sometimes very tight when they're new, and won't disengage. They will under the weight of the vehicle, but not when you're just turning the wheels by hand. He said just drive it around and it'll loosen up. So I drove the truck around. YAHOO! Beautiful. I can't really tell it's back there. I backed down the boat ramp - it was raining, so it was wet. I gave it some gas, and you could just FEEL both wheel shoving the truck up that ramp. Wonderful. Wonderful. Wonderful Ron M. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Ok, it's all done. It works FINE.
Talked to Powertrax tech support, they said it was the synchronizer ring; they're sometimes very tight when they're new, and won't disengage. They will under the weight of the vehicle, but not when you're just turning the wheels by hand. He said just drive it around and it'll loosen up. So I drove the truck around. YAHOO! Beautiful. I can't really tell it's back there. I backed down the boat ramp - it was raining, so it was wet. I gave it some gas, and you could just FEEL both wheel shoving the truck up that ramp. Wonderful. Wonderful. Wonderful Ron M. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
First I want to thank all you guys for your advice and encouragement.
I could NOT have done this without you. Literally. In my case, there's really not a down side. It works perfectly. Note here I'm talking about the Powertrax No-Slip, and NOT the Powertrax Lock-Right. The No-Slip releases the inside wheel during turns, which eliminates the problems (tire chirping, jerking, etc.) associated with driving lockers on the street. When not turning, however, it locks up absolutely rock solid. Most of the time, I can't even tell it's back there. It does sort of "clunk" a little bit, more felt than heard, sort of like a gear shifting, when you accelerate out of a turn or from coasting, but it's really not noticeable. The fact that I'm using 75W-140 synthetic gear oil helps, too. But it's great. The inside tire quietly disengages in a turn, and in straight lines, it locks up steel-beam-solid, with full power to both rear wheels. There's one place leaving my house where you stop at a stop sign going up a VERY steep slope. When it's raining, it's almost impossible to move out of that stop without spinning a rear wheel fast enough to smoke the rubber. With THIS baby, though, my truck moved up that hill, in a pouring rain, like it was being pulled with an invisible cable. Wonderful. I can hardly wait to try a little mud. I have heard of some people having problems with Powertraxes, or a lot of noise or whatever, but they are in a small minority. Of course you'd feel it more if you slammed the gas pedal to the floorboard every time you went through a turn or something. But otherwise, if it's installed correctly, it works. There's a 2-year warranty, by the way, and it's approximately 3 times stronger than your rear axle itself. A couple of things. First, it's kinda scary installing it the first time, especially if you've never been in a differential before. Sometimes things don't line up the way they're supposed to, so you push and pull on stuff or do it over and then it works. You have to be a little creative, because it doesn't always work exactly the way the instructions say. For example: - I couldn't turn the case so the pinion shaft hole would line up. I had to lever a big screwdriver against the pinion gear teeth to turn it. - When replacing the bolts in the differential cover and the pinion shaft retaining bolt, there is NO mention of using Loctite, which is absolutely vital. - The "final test," where somebody holds one wheel and the other one rotates freely in the opposite direction, didn't work right. The R wheel would disengage while somebody held the L wheel, but not vice-versa. I could NOT disengage the L wheel. In a panic, I called Powertrax tech support, and they were nonchalant: they said it was just a stiff synchro ring, no problem, just drive it a while to break it in and loosen it up, don't worry about it. - I had to remove the disk brake calipers so I could slide the axle in and out a few inches, as is required. No big deal, just two bolts holding on each caliper, and then I hung it from the axle to keep the weight off the rubber hose. Easy. BUT.... I had NO idea that the brakes would "close up" after I took them off the rotor!!!!! The rotor was an inch thick, but the brakes had closed up to about 1/2 an inch!!! What I did was get a 1/2" ratchet wrench, then put a 12" socket extension on it. Then I stuck the handle of the wrench between the brake pads and twisted it using the extension as a lever. It forced the pads far enough apart to get them back onto the rotor. It had me worried for a while there... (-; Since I went slowly, it was my first time, and I was being meticulously careful, I spent two days on this. Now, though, I could easily do it in less than an hour, and most of that would be spent removing tires, brakes, the differential cover, etc., the actual installation taking maybe 10 minutes. These aren't designed in new cars because they can sometimes be tricky to drive, especially on ice or snow. Since most streets slope downwards to the outside, on ice the outside wheel can "pull" you down to the curb if you're not careful. There's also the matter of occasional clunks and thunks, which can bother some people. The "limited slip" which is standard on almost all so-called "4 by 4s" isn't a locker. If one wheel is spinning, it allows about 15%-20% power to go to the other wheel. That's all. They are expensive, and have numerous parts to wear out and break. Differentials are critical parts, and MUST be reliable. Working on a differential is NOT something you're going to do by the side of the road under a tire jack. Trust me. The Powertrax No-Slip releases the inside wheel during turns, but in a straight line, it locks up solid, with full, 100% power going to both wheel, spinning or not. That's why they call it a "locker." There is NO slipping of any kind within the system. The standard open differential is simple, cheap, quiet, lasts forever, and they're what most people are used to. So that's why they are pretty much the standard. Total cost of this for me was about $460. The Powertrax No-Slip was ordered from a web site for $386 + $20 shipping. Then I spent about $50 on 3 quarts of Royal Purple 75W-140 gear oil, Valvoline premium synthetic bearing grease, and some Permatex RTV Ultra Blue sealant. Well, that's it. I'm thrilled and a little proud to have installed this thing successfully. It DOES work; it works like the dickens, and I have this nifty "Powertrax Extreme Traction Products" decal on the back of my truck. (-; I'll be heading out to my hunting lease in the next couple of weeks, and some of the ranch roads should be pretty muddy from all the recent rains. It'll be interesting to see how much it helps in those conditions, especially with the new BF Goodrich T/A KO's. Feel free to ask questions, if you have any. Otherwise, thanks again, and adios. Ron M. Mark > wrote in message >... > What's the down side to having Powertrax? > Why don't vehicles have this designed in? > How much did it cost you? > > In article >, > says... > > > > > >Ok, it's all done. It works FINE. > > > >Talked to Powertrax tech support, they said it was the synchronizer > >ring; they're sometimes very tight when they're new, and won't > >disengage. They will under the weight of the vehicle, but not when > >you're just turning the wheels by hand. He said just drive it around > >and it'll loosen up. > > > >So I drove the truck around. YAHOO! Beautiful. I can't really tell > >it's back there. I backed down the boat ramp - it was raining, so it > >was wet. I gave it some gas, and you could just FEEL both wheel > >shoving the truck up that ramp. > > > >Wonderful. Wonderful. Wonderful > > > >Ron M. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
New *FREE* Corvette Discussion Forum | JLA ENTERPRISES TECHNOLOGIES INTEGRATION | Corvette | 12 | November 30th 04 06:36 PM |