1995 Dodge Intrepid 3.5L Engine Control Module fuse blowing

My 1995 Dodge Intrepid blows the 20 amp fuse that coresponde the the Engine
controlr in the power distribution box when cranking the engine over, only
when starter is engauged. I had the battery neg. cable off put in new fuse
in put cable back turnned ign. switch on off on off on got the code 12
telling me that the battrey had been unhooked and code 55 for end of scan.
So no codes show any thing bad but if you crank the engine the fuse blows.
Could this be a bad starter or alt? If anyone has anyyone other idea
please lets hear it.

Thanks

"SKIPPY5897" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> My 1995 Dodge Intrepid blows the 20 amp fuse that coresponde the the
Engine
> controlr in the power distribution box when cranking the engine over, only
> when starter is engauged. I had the battery neg. cable off put in new fuse
> in put cable back turnned ign. switch on off on off on got the code 12
> telling me that the battrey had been unhooked and code 55 for end of scan.
> So no codes show any thing bad but if you crank the engine the fuse blows.
> Could this be a bad starter or alt? If anyone has anyyone other idea
> please lets hear it.
>
> Thanks
>

Well if you just turn the key to the run position and the fuse doesn't blow
you can eliminate the Generator, then turn the key to the start position
and it blows........a very good chance that your starter solenoid is shot

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

Glenn,
Thank you for the response. If the solenoid is bad and causing the
problem would the starter still be able to crank the engine over? Because
it does but it seems as though it drains the battery faster than it should.


Thanks

"SKIPPY5897" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> Glenn,
> Thank you for the response. If the solenoid is bad and causing the
> problem would the starter still be able to crank the engine over? Because
> it does but it seems as though it drains the battery faster than it
should.
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
You may get an intermittent click if it were the solenoid, but if the
solenoid was not working the starter would not turn at all

Ok it's not the starter it was replaced the fuse still blows only when you
engage the starter not when the key is on. Any other idea of what the
problem is with this thing?

Thanks

"SKIPPY5897" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> Ok it's not the starter it was replaced the fuse still blows only when you
> engage the starter not when the key is on. Any other idea of what the
> problem is with this thing?
>
> Thanks
>

You need to find out what is on that circuit that is blowing besides the
starter.

Ok, here is the cause and the solution. My son put a wrench on the cam
sprocket drivers side to rotate the engine in doing so he losened the bolt
and threw the cam out of time, then computer caused the fuse to blow.
Solution buy the timing fixtures that bolt to the back of the head and
follow the cam timing procedure.

"SKIPPY5897" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> Ok, here is the cause and the solution. My son put a wrench on the cam
> sprocket drivers side to rotate the engine in doing so he losened the bolt
> and threw the cam out of time, then computer caused the fuse to blow.
> Solution buy the timing fixtures that bolt to the back of the head and
> follow the cam timing procedure.
>
You lost me on this one!! either you started another thread or I deleted
mine cause they were to old, what are you talking about? and how would a
computer blow a fuse buy turning the cam shaft?

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

Cam and crank sensors not in sink.
Ok it is my fault because I failed to tell the hole story so let me go by
the numbers

1. My car was running and driving fine except after driving down the
interstate when you would get off the thing would over heat, so ten year
old car I decided that I would have the son put in new radiator and a new
water pump and new timing belt, air condenser and air drier because your
there.
2. The son got down to where he need to align up the timing marks and he
made a poor choice putting a wrench on the bolt that holds the sprocket to
the cam shaft on the drivers side of the car, it broke loose causing the
camshaft and the sprocket to be miss aligned. The sprocket sits on a D
shape on the camshaft but the D shape will not align the two, many degrees
of slop. It is necessary to buy fixture plates that bolt to the back of the
heads to align the sprockets to the camshafts and use a dial indicator to
find top dead center of the # one cylinder If this alignment is not
correct the 20 amp fuse in the box under the hood that corresponds to the
PCM blows.
3. But I did not know 2 above and went on a wild goose chase replaced the
coil plugs and the PCM with one from a junk yard being very careful to get
the right one matching the numbers and making sure the PCM came off a car
without VTSS. The fuse was still blowing.
4. Finely just taking it all apart again aligning the sprockets and
camshafts properly putting it back to gather hit the key started right up
no blown fuse.
5. But now there is a new problem.
6. The car runs great for about forty or forty five minutes and shuts
off.. Any ideas? It was sitting running not being driven.
7. Had to remove the battery cables and let it set for ten minutes put
cables back it starts back and shuts off in the same amount of time.

Sorry the thought to be problem solved is not please disregard the
previous. The 20 amp Fuse in B has starting blowing again.