just bought my (and my daughter's) first bug, a 72 Super Beetle!

Congrats,
I just purchase a 74 Super Beetle for my daughter about a month ago and
will be our project for her to drive in about 4-5 years too!. She loves it.
I also got a good deal and am reading up quite a bit as it's our first
bug...;
Let the fun begin!

"Barnhart Pinball" > wrote in message
.. .
> wrote in
> oups.com:
>
>> I once owned a Super Beetle.. now my Super Beetle was an Autostick,
>> and rotted.. so the horror stories are much more than usual.. Like the
>> front end almost falling out on the way home.. the Wheel falling off
>> while then being towed, and causing a wreck.. Taking my girlfriend for
>> a ride and the ball joint busting.. dragging down the road.. etc..
>>
>> So here's what I suggest.
>>
>> If you drive, and at 40MPH feel shimmy in the steering.. Then you have
>> the Super Beetle blues, and will need to look into the Tie Rods, Ends,
>> Balljoints, etc.. or.. you may end up like I did. I highly reccomend
>> to replace the ball joints just for fun, and maybe new tie rod ends,
>> if the tie rods look ok.
>
> Tracks straight and no shimmy up to 70mph. The struts/shocks are solid.
> But
> since I have 4 years to play with it - I'll rebuild the whole thing.
>
>> As for brakes.. Mine was the same.. It is hard to find brake lines at
>> a local store. I would reccomend not replacing just the master
>> cylinder.. this is an old vehicle. The wheel cylinders are only about
>> $20 or less each. A must. I changed the shoes too. You will most
>> likely find if you do not also change the wheel clyinders, that the
>> bleeder valves will most likely be clogged anyways or snap off. Unless
>> it had recent brake work, inwich the master cylinder was simply
>> overlooked. However, since your daughter may be driving, you may want
>> to do a front disc brake conversion. The brakes are not all that good
>> to begin with. I have all around disc brakes on my new bug, and it
>> stops on a dime.
>
> The guy had just replaced the master before I got it and when I test drove
> it the day before - all was good. I'm thinking leaking line or wheel
> cylinder - or he didn't bleed the master. Where is the master cylinder on
> this critter? It has a recent brake job. Where do I find info on a disc
> brake conversion?
>
>>
>>
>> Welting color is no major deal for a daily driver. Most amateur paint
>> jobs paint right over them. Matching color to vehicle. You may wonder
>> why?? Unless you have serious plans on redoing the vehicle to full
>> extent, I wouldn't bother. Sometimes the fender bolts rust, and will
>> snap off.. etc.. or pieces of the vehicle snap off while trying to
>> loosen the fender for changing the welting. May open a can of beans.
>> Again, mine was a beast!!! Maybe I am wrong with saying that. My new
>> bug has 100% new bolts on every fender, so I know it would be ok to
>> loosen them. My welting will be black.. only because it will be
>> painted with fenders off. Then the fenders painted seperately. If
>> yours are black, consider it a bonus!! That means that the fenders
>> were removed without much issue and reinstalled.
>
> Again, 4 years. So off come all the pieces and will be sanded and
> repainted
> factory orange with new welting.
>
>>
>> All in all, sounds like you got a great deal. Especially with the A/C
>> components. Compressors used are on Thesamba.com for no more than $50.
>>>From my personal opinion, it is becoming very hard to find solid Bugs
>> these days. Before you dump a ton of money, make sure the heater
>> channels are solid. Make sure where the door pillars meet the floor,
>> that they are solid to the floor. I would personally pull up the
>> carpet edge near the doors to inspect the heater channels. These are
>> very important.
>
> All is solid and rust free except for some body surface rust here and
> there
> (nothing serious). It does need a right front fender as the headlight
> bucket is pushed in. Heater channels are good and solid. I was discussing
> with my Dad since we have the time - if it wouldn't be to our advantage
> and
> yank the frame/pan from the body and have it coated up at someplace like
> Line-X? Do it once, never worry about it ever again.
>
> Oh, it's missing the a/c piece that went under the dashboard
> unfortunately.
> I was thinking of going through Hot Rod Air (www.hotrodair.com) and
> getting
> the conversion kit for it - give it an update.
>>
>>
>>
>> Regardless of any situation, you will have alot of fun!!! I started in
>> the VW's nearly 6 years ago.. from horror stories.. and still at it
>> now. No longer a horror story. Every single day, I think about a VW. I
>> proposed in my 1960 Bug. When I went to purchase it, the family
>> snickered that a wedding was more important. I bought it. Went to
>> Kayes Jewellers, and proposed in it on Christmas Eve. Heck, I even
>> bought one of those new Beetles for my girlfriend just the other week.
>> Going to buy a 70 Bug to restore this weekend too.
>>
>>
>> Now sit back.. relax..
>> Go to Youtube.com and search for "Bug Drag Racing" videos.
>>
>> My 1960 is on their.. not drag racing though.. I wish.. Acting drag
>> racing with a stock 1600cc engine.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Barnhart Pinball wrote:
>>> Picked the little dude up today. Mechanically tight (new engine,
>>> trans mounts, tons of new parts) and runs great. Handles like a
>>> go-kart. I got lucky with this one as it has what looks to be the
>>> original paint, no rust (well, except for one or 2 small places on
>>> the driver door and a couple where it got scratched) and a perfect
>>> underpan. It's a color code 21E (looking though the net) "blood
>>> orange", and was equipped with factory air conditioning. Someone
>>> removed the part under the dash and the compressor is gone. All the
>>> lines and condensor/fan are still present. Wheels and hubcaps are
>>> striaght and present.
>>>
>>

gvl2 > wrote in
news

> Look at the brake pedal.
>
> Now, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right.
>
> Get out of the car and look throght the fender well at the spot where
> your foot would be if you shoved the brake pedal all the way therough
> the floor.
>
> There's the master cylinder.
>
> Easiest way to do brake work up front is to put the whole front up on
> stands and remove both wheels. You can pretty much see the whole
> system from underneath.
>
> If you're REALLY replacing everything brake related and you can have
> the car off the road a couple of days -- pull the fuel tank out. You
> can actually reach all the components up front through the hole
> without having to crawl around under a car that's on jackstands.
>
I like the idea of pulling the tank as I have a leak anyway (I think the
small vent hose has a hole), or at least a "gassy smell" right up where
the filler tube is. That way I can inspect the gas tank for any issues.

Thanks for the tip!

Thanks for the tip on Hotrod air. $1100 for AC for my 69 bug, plus
shipping.

Paul

Barnhart Pinball wrote:
> wrote in
> oups.com:
>
> > I once owned a Super Beetle.. now my Super Beetle was an Autostick,
> > and rotted.. so the horror stories are much more than usual.. Like the
> > front end almost falling out on the way home.. the Wheel falling off
> > while then being towed, and causing a wreck.. Taking my girlfriend for
> > a ride and the ball joint busting.. dragging down the road.. etc..
> >
> > So here's what I suggest.
> >
> > If you drive, and at 40MPH feel shimmy in the steering.. Then you have
> > the Super Beetle blues, and will need to look into the Tie Rods, Ends,
> > Balljoints, etc.. or.. you may end up like I did. I highly reccomend
> > to replace the ball joints just for fun, and maybe new tie rod ends,
> > if the tie rods look ok.
>
> Tracks straight and no shimmy up to 70mph. The struts/shocks are solid. But
> since I have 4 years to play with it - I'll rebuild the whole thing.
>
> > As for brakes.. Mine was the same.. It is hard to find brake lines at
> > a local store. I would reccomend not replacing just the master
> > cylinder.. this is an old vehicle. The wheel cylinders are only about
> > $20 or less each. A must. I changed the shoes too. You will most
> > likely find if you do not also change the wheel clyinders, that the
> > bleeder valves will most likely be clogged anyways or snap off. Unless
> > it had recent brake work, inwich the master cylinder was simply
> > overlooked. However, since your daughter may be driving, you may want
> > to do a front disc brake conversion. The brakes are not all that good
> > to begin with. I have all around disc brakes on my new bug, and it
> > stops on a dime.
>
> The guy had just replaced the master before I got it and when I test drove
> it the day before - all was good. I'm thinking leaking line or wheel
> cylinder - or he didn't bleed the master. Where is the master cylinder on
> this critter? It has a recent brake job. Where do I find info on a disc
> brake conversion?
>
> >
> >
> > Welting color is no major deal for a daily driver. Most amateur paint
> > jobs paint right over them. Matching color to vehicle. You may wonder
> > why?? Unless you have serious plans on redoing the vehicle to full
> > extent, I wouldn't bother. Sometimes the fender bolts rust, and will
> > snap off.. etc.. or pieces of the vehicle snap off while trying to
> > loosen the fender for changing the welting. May open a can of beans.
> > Again, mine was a beast!!! Maybe I am wrong with saying that. My new
> > bug has 100% new bolts on every fender, so I know it would be ok to
> > loosen them. My welting will be black.. only because it will be
> > painted with fenders off. Then the fenders painted seperately. If
> > yours are black, consider it a bonus!! That means that the fenders
> > were removed without much issue and reinstalled.
>
> Again, 4 years. So off come all the pieces and will be sanded and repainted
> factory orange with new welting.
>
> >
> > All in all, sounds like you got a great deal. Especially with the A/C
> > components. Compressors used are on Thesamba.com for no more than $50.
> >>From my personal opinion, it is becoming very hard to find solid Bugs
> > these days. Before you dump a ton of money, make sure the heater
> > channels are solid. Make sure where the door pillars meet the floor,
> > that they are solid to the floor. I would personally pull up the
> > carpet edge near the doors to inspect the heater channels. These are
> > very important.
>
> All is solid and rust free except for some body surface rust here and there
> (nothing serious). It does need a right front fender as the headlight
> bucket is pushed in. Heater channels are good and solid. I was discussing
> with my Dad since we have the time - if it wouldn't be to our advantage and
> yank the frame/pan from the body and have it coated up at someplace like
> Line-X? Do it once, never worry about it ever again.
>
> Oh, it's missing the a/c piece that went under the dashboard unfortunately.
> I was thinking of going through Hot Rod Air (www.hotrodair.com) and getting
> the conversion kit for it - give it an update.
> >
> >
> >
> > Regardless of any situation, you will have alot of fun!!! I started in
> > the VW's nearly 6 years ago.. from horror stories.. and still at it
> > now. No longer a horror story. Every single day, I think about a VW. I
> > proposed in my 1960 Bug. When I went to purchase it, the family
> > snickered that a wedding was more important. I bought it. Went to
> > Kayes Jewellers, and proposed in it on Christmas Eve. Heck, I even
> > bought one of those new Beetles for my girlfriend just the other week.
> > Going to buy a 70 Bug to restore this weekend too.
> >
> >
> > Now sit back.. relax..
> > Go to Youtube.com and search for "Bug Drag Racing" videos.
> >
> > My 1960 is on their.. not drag racing though.. I wish.. Acting drag
> > racing with a stock 1600cc engine.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Barnhart Pinball wrote:
> >> Picked the little dude up today. Mechanically tight (new engine,
> >> trans mounts, tons of new parts) and runs great. Handles like a
> >> go-kart. I got lucky with this one as it has what looks to be the
> >> original paint, no rust (well, except for one or 2 small places on
> >> the driver door and a couple where it got scratched) and a perfect
> >> underpan. It's a color code 21E (looking though the net) "blood
> >> orange", and was equipped with factory air conditioning. Someone
> >> removed the part under the dash and the compressor is gone. All the
> >> lines and condensor/fan are still present. Wheels and hubcaps are
> >> striaght and present.
> >>
> >