That little screw & nut combo on top of most steering gear boxes . . .

I bring this up because a couple of years ago I was looking for ways
to improve tightness/feedback of the steering on my 2008 Kia Optima -
already both a responsive and tight driver with little need for
constant correction on the road.

What I know about the subject: This screw has been used, mostly on
older vehicles both with/without power steering, to reduce the amount
of play in the steering gear before the driver's intensions are
translated to tires and pavement.

What I recall from "class" - #1. Tighten conservatively!! Rack the
car, loosen the nut, 1/4 turn screw, retighten nut, test drive.

#2. Repeat step #1 if and when nec.

#3. Over tightening can bind up the steering, sometimes locally, and
override the functions of Caster/SAI(kingpin) to aid steering wheel
return. It can also result in long-term damage to the box if it's
overtightened.

The rest of class I was staring out the window at that '64 Buick I'm
dreaming of owning one day. LOL.

My question is: Is this something that can/should be undertaken with a
car less than 5 years old, less than 50,000miles and has next to no
play in the steering? Will it make the steering wheel "stiffer"
without hindering returnability?

-ChrisCoaster

On 07/17/2011 08:05 AM, ChrisCoaster wrote:
> I bring this up because a couple of years ago I was looking for ways
> to improve tightness/feedback of the steering on my 2008 Kia Optima -
> already both a responsive and tight driver with little need for
> constant correction on the road.
>
> What I know about the subject: This screw has been used, mostly on
> older vehicles both with/without power steering, to reduce the amount
> of play in the steering gear before the driver's intensions are
> translated to tires and pavement.
>
> What I recall from "class" - #1. Tighten conservatively!! Rack the
> car, loosen the nut, 1/4 turn screw, retighten nut, test drive.
>
> #2. Repeat step #1 if and when nec.
>
> #3. Over tightening can bind up the steering, sometimes locally, and
> override the functions of Caster/SAI(kingpin) to aid steering wheel
> return. It can also result in long-term damage to the box if it's
> overtightened.
>
> The rest of class I was staring out the window at that '64 Buick I'm
> dreaming of owning one day. LOL.
>
> My question is: Is this something that can/should be undertaken with a
> car less than 5 years old, less than 50,000miles and has next to no
> play in the steering? Will it make the steering wheel "stiffer"
> without hindering returnability?
>
> -ChrisCoaster

If there is no discernable play, don't mess with it. If you overtighten
a steering box adjustment, you will get a steering wheel that is
marginally harder to turn, but you will get no additional steering feel
(in fact, you will get less, as you are introducing friction into the
mechanism) and you will experience increased steering gear wear, and
also the self-centering of the steering will be reduced (again, due to
increased friction.)

Additionally, if you *do* feel play, still be careful. Most boxes are
set up to have a "high spot" on center where you make your adjustment; a
little play off center is perfectly normal. Unfortunately the high spot
is also where the gear sits while driving perfectly straight down the
road. So if you have an ultra-high-mileage car with a little
perceptible play on center, it's possible that you still may not be able
to adjust out all the play because the high spot may have worn so much
that it is now looser than the gears are in the off-center position.
(not applicable to your situation)

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Be sure the ball joints and tie rods are in good condition.They can get
sloppy.
cuhulin

ChrisCoaster wrote:
> I bring this up because a couple of years ago I was looking for ways
> to improve tightness/feedback of the steering on my 2008 Kia Optima -
> already both a responsive and tight driver with little need for
> constant correction on the road.
>
> What I know about the subject: This screw has been used, mostly on
> older vehicles both with/without power steering, to reduce the amount
> of play in the steering gear before the driver's intensions are
> translated to tires and pavement.
>
> What I recall from "class" - #1. Tighten conservatively!! Rack the
> car, loosen the nut, 1/4 turn screw, retighten nut, test drive.
>
> #2. Repeat step #1 if and when nec.
>
> #3. Over tightening can bind up the steering, sometimes locally, and
> override the functions of Caster/SAI(kingpin) to aid steering wheel
> return. It can also result in long-term damage to the box if it's
> overtightened.
>
> The rest of class I was staring out the window at that '64 Buick I'm
> dreaming of owning one day. LOL.
>
> My question is: Is this something that can/should be undertaken with a
> car less than 5 years old, less than 50,000miles and has next to no
> play in the steering? Will it make the steering wheel "stiffer"
> without hindering returnability?
>
> -ChrisCoaster

Recirculating ball systems disappeared with the advent of
McP strut suspension about 30 years ago.
Few rack and pinions are adjustable. Mostly they are on
high performance or luxury cars.
Looking at kiatechinfo, I don't see any adjustments or
discussion about adjusting.
I looked at my 06 Spectra and don't see any adjustment.

On Jul 17, 8:05*am, ChrisCoaster > wrote:
>
> What I recall from "class" - #1. Tighten conservatively!! *Rack the
> car, loosen the nut, 1/4 turn screw, retighten nut, test drive.

#1b. Caution: Some of those lock nuts are L-hand thread.

> My question is: Is this something that can/should be undertaken with a
> car less than 5 years old, less than 50,000miles and has next to no
> play in the steering?

Not IMO. Of course the way people beat the **** out of their cars
these days...

> Will it make the steering wheel "stiffer"
> without hindering returnability?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlash_%28engineering%29
-----

- gpsman

As others have suggested, and I echo, it is a lot
better to leave that alone.
If you HAVE to muck with it, do it in slow steps
and check to see if you have accomplished anything.

You will, I think, NEVER get the response out of a recirculating ball system
that you get out of
a rack and pinion. You just cant make a filet mignon out of a hot dog.

Best regards

"hls" > wrote in message
...
> As others have suggested, and I echo, it is a lot
> better to leave that alone.
> If you HAVE to muck with it, do it in slow steps
> and check to see if you have accomplished anything.
>
> You will, I think, NEVER get the response out of a recirculating ball
> system that you get out of
> a rack and pinion. You just cant make a filet mignon out of a hot dog.
>
> Best regards

You're under the impression that rack and pinion
is superior to recirculating ball and nut? Except for
racing applications, I far prefer the longer-lasting,
rugged former to the much more fragile former.

"Adrian" > wrote in message
...
> "hls" > wrote in message
> ...
>> As others have suggested, and I echo, it is a lot
>> better to leave that alone.
>> If you HAVE to muck with it, do it in slow steps
>> and check to see if you have accomplished anything.
>>
>> You will, I think, NEVER get the response out of a recirculating ball
>> system that you get out of
>> a rack and pinion. You just cant make a filet mignon out of a hot dog.
>>
>> Best regards
>
> You're under the impression that rack and pinion
> is superior to recirculating ball and nut? Except for
> racing applications, I far prefer the longer-lasting,
> rugged former to the much more fragile former.

Oops, should have read: "I far prefer the longer-lasting,
rugged latter to the much more fragile former".

"Adrian" > wrote in message > Oops, should have read: "I far
prefer the longer-lasting,
> rugged latter to the much more fragile former".

Yes, recirculating ball is a robust system.

It is a station wagon system, an old man's system, however.

IMO, if you want response, rack and pinion
is the way to go.

"hls" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Adrian" > wrote in message > Oops, should have read: "I
> far prefer the longer-lasting,
>> rugged latter to the much more fragile former".
>
> Yes, recirculating ball is a robust system.
>
> It is a station wagon system, an old man's system, however.

Oh I don't know about that, the blown 155+ mph
Chrysler Crossfire SRT-6 used it, not exactly either
of the above in my humble estimation.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysle...n_and_features
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_Crossfire#Models
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_Crossfire#SRT-6

> IMO, if you want response, rack and pinion
> is the way to go.

If you're participating in a competitve racing event,
sure, otherwise R&P was incorporated as a cost and
weight savings measure that all the deluded Walter
Mitty boy-racers surely think is the cat's pajamas.