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New Clutch Slips Terribly but only after 10 miles - Dodge Stealth
Had a new clutch put in my 2WD 1993 Dodge Stealth a month ago -
$900.00. It starts the day just fine with no slipping and quick acceleration. After about 10-20 miles it starts slipping terribly in all gears where the RPM's go from 2000 to 4000 without ANY acceleration. Why does this happen only after 10-20 miles are driven? Is it overheating? Could it be the wrong clutch parts? Is it overheating? Do I have a leak of some kind (I see no fluid on the driveway)? Thanks for any thoughts |
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that would cause the clutch to not disengage ...
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Who did this installation, Chris? What do they tell you?
Seems pretty expensive. I found a clutch kit for that car for about $200, but there could be cheaper and more expensive. Did you go with some sort of trick aftermarket clutch? I agree with another poster that overheating in the hydraulics to the clutch is suggested. Let us know what you find. |
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Thank you all for your wonderful suggestions. No word from the mechanic
yet - he hasn't looked at it yet. This is actually the fourth time I have been back there this month about the new clutch (once before for slipping and twice for clutch pedal not springing back completely (O.K. now) - each time he went to the floor pedal to make adjustments on what he says is "a wierd clutch pedal setup"). The mechanic was puzzled 2 days ago when I returned again and explained that the new clutch he installed slips ONLY after ten miles, yet when I went back yesterday to review with him all of your thoughtful posts he said "I never needed no internet to fix a car" (sigh). I think he agreed to try and bleed the hydraulic system first cause your suggestions that the cause may be air in the lines that heats and expands after ten miles is a great diagnosis and could be explained by a sloppy clutch installation. While there I started it up cold and then pressed and released the clutch pedal 30 times to try the suggestion re pressure buildup from multiple uses of the clutch. I then drove it (still cold) - no slipping until 5-10 miles of driving. There is no visual leakage but still could be a problem with the hydraulics - (?? cylinder, plunger, or whatever all is involved). Maybe the clutch is overheating due to poor installation or wrong parts. The clutch fork had snapped and was replaced at the same time. All parts should hopefully be stock - this ain't no race car (though my black Dodge Stealth is pretty and has PA license plate BATM0BL). Total cost = $900.00. Clutch kit = $262; Clutch fork (was snapped)= $71; Resurface flywheel = $75; Labor (5.5 hours at $75/hr) = $412.50; Shop supplies = $11; PA Sales Tax = $50. Will repost once it is fixed and no longer slips after ten miles. THANKS AGAIN!!! |
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Answer: Air in the lines that expands when heated up resulting in
clutch slip only after ten miles. Or, at least I think that was the cause. Drove 200 miles with no clutch slip. The mechanic said he adjusted the clutch (a fourth time) AND bled the system. Thanks for the great diagnosis! |
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> wrote in message oups.com... > > > wrote: >> Answer: Air in the lines that expands when heated up resulting in >> clutch slip only after ten miles. Or, at least I think that was the >> cause. Drove 200 miles with no clutch slip. The mechanic said he >> adjusted the clutch (a fourth time) AND bled the system. >> >> Thanks for the great diagnosis! > > "adjusted the clutch"... in a hydralic system? > > He's giving you a load of bunk. He likely adjusted the pushrod between the clutch pedal and master cylinder. If that rod is too long the port in the master cylinder is closed which traps the fluid. When that fluid heats up it expands and pushes against the piston on the slave cylinder which makes the clutch slip. His problem had nothing to do with air trapped in the system, it had every thing to do with a misadjusted clutch linkage, just not in the traditional way. Bob |
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