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1990 Honda Accord with no spark



 
 
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  #1  
Old April 6th 05, 03:57 AM
tepdrake
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Default 1990 Honda Accord with no spark

Looking for help. I replaced the igniter (ICM) already. It was tested bad
at Auto Zone. The new one tested good. After installing, still no spark. I
have 12volts on it like the Haynes manual says I should have. I have
ohmed the coil and it checks good per the Haynes manual.
Does anyone have any ideas of why I may not have spark? I hate to buy
parts that I do not need. I am trying to figure out what tells the ICM to
make the coil spark. I understand the old points and condensor method but
not sure what sensor makes the ICM pulse the coil. Any help will be
appreciated.

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  #2  
Old April 6th 05, 05:32 AM
Comboverfish
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tepdrake wrote:
> Looking for help. I replaced the igniter (ICM) already. It was

tested bad
> at Auto Zone. The new one tested good. After installing, still no

spark. I
> have 12volts on it like the Haynes manual says I should have. I have
> ohmed the coil and it checks good per the Haynes manual.
> Does anyone have any ideas of why I may not have spark? I hate to

buy
> parts that I do not need. I am trying to figure out what tells the

ICM to
> make the coil spark. I understand the old points and condensor

method but
> not sure what sensor makes the ICM pulse the coil. Any help will be
> appreciated.


Are you sure your distributor shaft is turning? Those were known for
distributor shaft bushing failure and covered years ago under a recall.
Even if it IS turning, have you looked into the distributor housing
under the rotor and the removeable black plastic shield and inspected
for rust powder from a failing bushing? The reluctors could be packed
with metal/rust powder.

Are you checking for spark at the coil terminal with the cap off?
That's how I would do it. Eliminate the cap and rotor. If the rotor
gets enough carbon buildup on it, those will track spark to ground
through the shaft. Carboned rotors are a somewhat common no-start
cause on your 2.2. It seems like your ignition switch and PGM FI main
relay are OK if you have full battery voltage to the ignitor and coil
-- MAKE SURE you have B+ there during cranking as well or you probably
have a bad ignition switch (bad in the start position).

FYI, The magnetic pickups inside the distributor all input into the ECM
and the ECM outputs a timing signal to one of the 4 tabs on the igniter
that instruct it to fire the coil. I don't remember the colors, but if
you have the correct wiring diagram, use that knowledge to trace it and
you will see what I am talking about.

Toyota MDT in MO

  #3  
Old April 6th 05, 02:02 PM
TeGGer®
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Default

"Comboverfish" > wrote in
oups.com:


>
> Are you sure your distributor shaft is turning? Those were known for
> distributor shaft bushing failure and covered years ago under a recall.



It's a ball-bearing, not a bushing.

Are you sure it's not the '92+ distributors that had the shaft bearing
failures? The '90s had igniter failures AFAIK. The igniter was changed for
'91.


> Even if it IS turning, have you looked into the distributor housing
> under the rotor and the removeable black plastic shield and inspected
> for rust powder from a failing bushing? The reluctors could be packed
> with metal/rust powder.



That too is a characteristic of the '92+ distributors. I was told it had
something to do with the revised leak cover and rotor holding in the ozone,
causing rust on the metal parts.


>
> Are you checking for spark at the coil terminal with the cap off?
> That's how I would do it. Eliminate the cap and rotor.



According to posts in the various Honda groups, dead coils are common when
the current can't find a proper way to ground, such as when you crank the
car with the cap off or plugs disconnected. Apparently it makes a ground
through the body of the coil, thereby wrecking it.

If correct, the OP may have a damaged coil.

Your opinions?

--
TeGGeR®

  #4  
Old April 7th 05, 04:09 AM
tepdrake
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Default

Thanks everyone for your replies. I had ordered a coil off the internet
before posting this. The new coil secondary to primary measured 19Kohms.
I installed it and the car fired right up! My inlaws had given me this car
and I look forward to getting over 30 MPG with the current gas prices.

  #5  
Old April 7th 05, 02:52 PM
Comboverfish
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TeGGer=AE wrote:

>
> Are you sure it's not the '92+ distributors that had the shaft

bearing
> failures? The '90s had igniter failures AFAIK. The igniter was

changed for
> '91.



The 90 Accord got a new dist housing and the 91 received a shot of
grease forced into the bearing (I recall it being a bushing but
whatever) and possibly a new ignitor. The main problem was the bearing
failure and eventual seizing of the shaft. I'm pretty sure I got the
90 and 91 right but they might
be backwards. I left the Honda dealer in around 1993 so this is memory
stressing stuff here.


> According to posts in the various Honda groups, dead coils are common

when
> the current can't find a proper way to ground, such as when you crank

the
> car with the cap off or plugs disconnected. Apparently it makes a

ground
> through the body of the coil, thereby wrecking it.
>
> If correct, the OP may have a damaged coil.
>
> Your opinions?
>
> --
> TeGGeR=AE


Good call. Of course just about any car's coil can fail from poor
secondary condition.

Toyota MDT in MO

 




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