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#1
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1990 Honda Accord with no spark
Looking for help. I replaced the igniter (ICM) already. It was tested bad
at Auto Zone. The new one tested good. After installing, still no spark. I have 12volts on it like the Haynes manual says I should have. I have ohmed the coil and it checks good per the Haynes manual. Does anyone have any ideas of why I may not have spark? I hate to buy parts that I do not need. I am trying to figure out what tells the ICM to make the coil spark. I understand the old points and condensor method but not sure what sensor makes the ICM pulse the coil. Any help will be appreciated. |
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#2
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tepdrake wrote: > Looking for help. I replaced the igniter (ICM) already. It was tested bad > at Auto Zone. The new one tested good. After installing, still no spark. I > have 12volts on it like the Haynes manual says I should have. I have > ohmed the coil and it checks good per the Haynes manual. > Does anyone have any ideas of why I may not have spark? I hate to buy > parts that I do not need. I am trying to figure out what tells the ICM to > make the coil spark. I understand the old points and condensor method but > not sure what sensor makes the ICM pulse the coil. Any help will be > appreciated. Are you sure your distributor shaft is turning? Those were known for distributor shaft bushing failure and covered years ago under a recall. Even if it IS turning, have you looked into the distributor housing under the rotor and the removeable black plastic shield and inspected for rust powder from a failing bushing? The reluctors could be packed with metal/rust powder. Are you checking for spark at the coil terminal with the cap off? That's how I would do it. Eliminate the cap and rotor. If the rotor gets enough carbon buildup on it, those will track spark to ground through the shaft. Carboned rotors are a somewhat common no-start cause on your 2.2. It seems like your ignition switch and PGM FI main relay are OK if you have full battery voltage to the ignitor and coil -- MAKE SURE you have B+ there during cranking as well or you probably have a bad ignition switch (bad in the start position). FYI, The magnetic pickups inside the distributor all input into the ECM and the ECM outputs a timing signal to one of the 4 tabs on the igniter that instruct it to fire the coil. I don't remember the colors, but if you have the correct wiring diagram, use that knowledge to trace it and you will see what I am talking about. Toyota MDT in MO |
#3
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"Comboverfish" > wrote in
oups.com: > > Are you sure your distributor shaft is turning? Those were known for > distributor shaft bushing failure and covered years ago under a recall. It's a ball-bearing, not a bushing. Are you sure it's not the '92+ distributors that had the shaft bearing failures? The '90s had igniter failures AFAIK. The igniter was changed for '91. > Even if it IS turning, have you looked into the distributor housing > under the rotor and the removeable black plastic shield and inspected > for rust powder from a failing bushing? The reluctors could be packed > with metal/rust powder. That too is a characteristic of the '92+ distributors. I was told it had something to do with the revised leak cover and rotor holding in the ozone, causing rust on the metal parts. > > Are you checking for spark at the coil terminal with the cap off? > That's how I would do it. Eliminate the cap and rotor. According to posts in the various Honda groups, dead coils are common when the current can't find a proper way to ground, such as when you crank the car with the cap off or plugs disconnected. Apparently it makes a ground through the body of the coil, thereby wrecking it. If correct, the OP may have a damaged coil. Your opinions? -- TeGGeR® |
#4
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Thanks everyone for your replies. I had ordered a coil off the internet
before posting this. The new coil secondary to primary measured 19Kohms. I installed it and the car fired right up! My inlaws had given me this car and I look forward to getting over 30 MPG with the current gas prices. |
#5
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TeGGer=AE wrote: > > Are you sure it's not the '92+ distributors that had the shaft bearing > failures? The '90s had igniter failures AFAIK. The igniter was changed for > '91. The 90 Accord got a new dist housing and the 91 received a shot of grease forced into the bearing (I recall it being a bushing but whatever) and possibly a new ignitor. The main problem was the bearing failure and eventual seizing of the shaft. I'm pretty sure I got the 90 and 91 right but they might be backwards. I left the Honda dealer in around 1993 so this is memory stressing stuff here. > According to posts in the various Honda groups, dead coils are common when > the current can't find a proper way to ground, such as when you crank the > car with the cap off or plugs disconnected. Apparently it makes a ground > through the body of the coil, thereby wrecking it. > > If correct, the OP may have a damaged coil. > > Your opinions? > > -- > TeGGeR=AE Good call. Of course just about any car's coil can fail from poor secondary condition. Toyota MDT in MO |
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