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touch halogen, lose low beams if installing
Okay, before the snow storm, noticed left headlight was out.
Just the low beam, not its high beam. Thought, there are spares in the car. Simple Phillips Halogens for a 94 Plymouth Voyager. Not fun driving in the dark in a snowstorm. Really not funny. Where is the damn road? Found it hard to take out in the cold and dark. But undid the clamp holding the socket to the bulb. Never could get back on the holding plastic nut knob on tight. It's a large plastic nut that holds the bulb in. So just sandwiched it in with a plastic shopping bag. So far so good until I can get some daylight to see better and look in the manual. Within minutes, the new halogen's low also blew. Not its high. Just the low beams on othe new bulb, same as the old bulb. Hmmm. Thought of the discussion here. Aha, the relay or the switch. But the fellow at Pep Boys - dealer was closed and was in a part of the state where I did not see any other parts stores and was not familiar and was past 5-6 pm when most other stores are closed. Just wanted to discuss this. The fellow suggested that touching the bulb could predispose it to burning out. I said, heh, I remember that from halogens, but usually they explode. And he said, it IS a halogen. Duh, me. But these don't explode, just ruins the bulb. So clean it with a rag and some 70% isopropyl alcohol and use latex gloves? I think I used toilet paper and alcohol to install my floor lamp's halogen. I guess it makes sense. Oil on the bulb would create, theoretically, a superheated hotspot which might cause the low light's filament to prematurely expire? I gather the low filament is closer to the outer edge? Just guessing. After I get some sleep, I'll inspect the bulb and all and try a new bulb. I gather the relay or switch is a double-throw, so if it burned out, I would have both lows out? Not just one? Makes sense. Relieved if this is true. Not a good time to take apart the dash, assuming one takes apart the dash for the relay or switch. Although that poster who suggested wiring one to the other. Hmmm, remembered that. Would need just the hot wire for the low? That's assuming the Ground and the other hot are good. Just guessing again. After I send this post I'll get out the Chrysler factory shop manual and see if this is discussed in detail. My little owner's manual does not mention replacing the headlamps. I guess it's too technical, but dash it, it's extremely important. I didn't realize it until there's a howling snowstorm and I am many miles from home with needing to use country roads, unfamiliar ones, in the dark. Nest time I keep the shop manual in the car as I used to. |
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touch halogen, lose low beams if installing
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touch halogen, lose low beams if installing
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touch halogen, lose low beams if installing
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#5
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touch halogen, lose low beams if installing
Thanks Daniel, very informative (as usual)
---Greg--- > Years ago, halogen bulbs (known then as "quartz Iodine" or just "quartz" > bulbs) were made out of fused quartz. If you touch fused quartz, skin oil > gets on it. When skin oil is heated to the high temperatures found on an > operating bulb, it devitrifies the quartz. The result is an opaque > fingerprint-shaped spot, or a blister on the bulb, or a severely balooned > area of the bulb, or a shattered bulb. Which thing happens depends on the > type of bulb and how hot it is. > > And so we were all carefully taught never to touch the bulb. Never touch > the bulb! If you do, clean it with alcohol! Never touch the bulb or it'll > fail quickly! Never touch the bulb or it'll explode! Never touch the bulb! > > Thing is, most automotive halogen bulbs are now made out of hardglass, not > quartz. Hardglass doesn't devitrify or do anything else untoward if you > touch it and then light the lamp. No opaque spots. No blisters. No > shattering, no ballooning, no exploding, no shortened life. Hardglass does > not know or care it's been touched by human hands. So, from a bulb-health > perspective, the "don't touch!" warning is thoroughly obsolete. |
#6
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touch halogen, lose low beams if installing
Daniel J. Stern wrote:
> So, no, you didn't cause short bulb life by touching the bulb. There are > several causes of short bulb life (low bulb quality, high or spiky line > voltage, insecure bulb mounting, etc.). Take a close look at the failed > filaments: Are the ends broken cleanly off, or are there little round > globs of molten metal either at the broken ends or rattling around inside > the bulb? I did a quick peak at the bulb. I am waiting to put in another new bulb tomorrow. I'm having trouble getting the plastic hold-down screw nut to screw back in. To my surprise, both filaments seem intact. This is a Phillips 9004. I will put in a Sylvania 9004LL tomorrow. The filaments in the Sylvania, to my uneducated eye, appear somewhat more robust and not so flimsy. The bulb may have failed not because I touched it (as you pointed out) but because it is not secure in place with the screw nut. It's not coming out and appears to be stuck but maybe my jostling it around around messed it up. Or keeping it in the little drawer under the passenger seat for 4-5 years probably did not help matters. The length of time and the bumps and vibrations of all those year probably weakened the filaments? But the highs work, so don't know. The high's filament looks about the same as the low's filament so one would think they both would be bad. > No. The left bulb does not know or care the condition of the right bulb. > Headlamp switches and relays are usually not difficult to replace. That's good to know because I could not glean this info from the factory manual with a first glance. I was hoping it was just a relay or some such which I could grab from beneath the dash - but that was on cars built long ago. > Depending on the model and year, you may not have two hots and a ground. > Chrysler uses ground-switched circuitry on some models. > > DS There are three wires leading to the socket so I guessed two hots, low and high, and a ground. I don't know what ground-switch circuitry is. The ground completes the circuit so acts like a switch then? Instead of switch the hots, one switches the grounds? Interesting. Thanks for your informative reply. |
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touch halogen, lose low beams if installing
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touch halogen, lose low beams if installing
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#9
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touch halogen, lose low beams if installing
Bill Putney wrote: > Sometimes filaments break, with the two ends at the break staying so > close together that you can't tell by looking at them that there is a > break - this will often be the case if the filament broke due to shock > rather than burning in two. If it is in fact broken, check the filament > with a multimeter for continuity - if this is the case, you might even > get an intermittent connection by shaking the bulb around a bit with the > meter connected thru it. If the filament is solid good but not lighting > in the vehicle, then the problem is elsewhere (connector, wiring, whatever). You're right. One circuit was open, presumably the Low which does not work. Thanks for all the good advice. |
#10
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touch halogen, lose low beams if installing
Daniel J. Stern wrote: > On Tue, 17 Jan 2006, wrote: > LL = Long Life but Less Light. Those "more robust" filaments you see > produce less light, lower-quality light, and poorer beam focus. Not a wise > choice if you're trying to squeeze the best possible performance out of > headlamps that are fairly rotten to begin with, fed by lousy wiring. That's so. Noticeable difference between the LL and the Regular for output. Not a lot but definitely the LL is a less bright. Good advice to avoid the LL. |
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