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#1
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Brakeline replacement
I need to replace the brake line on my 74 bug. Any suggestions where to
look for good instructions on this? Do you guys have any opinons on steel lines vs. zinc plated? tim |
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#2
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Brakeline replacement
tdfm wrote:
> I need to replace the brake line on my 74 bug. Any suggestions where to > look for good instructions on this? Do you guys have any opinons on > steel lines vs. zinc plated? > > tim The Main line to the rear? I don't recall seeing any how-to articles. Follow the contour of the old one. You can get at the M/C end by removing the wheel or (better) taking the tank out. The really big problem is the fitting at the rear. It is a TEE fitting bolted to the underside of the pan. It's almost impossible to get the flare nut loose to take the old line out. Best is to drop the TEE down by unbolting it (if it co-operates). There is a rubber grommet at each end where the line passes thru the bulkhead. You have to be creative to get the line thru it. Strongly recommend applying caulking afterward to prevent water leaks. I don't have any bias about types of lines. Speedy Jim http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ |
#3
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Brakeline replacement
Yeah - Like speedy said. That back one is a PITA !
I did mine with the body off, but had to just tighten it a bit after the body was on. I used Copper Line British Safety Approved. (I'm in the UK). Rich "Speedy Jim" > wrote in message y.com... > tdfm wrote: > >> I need to replace the brake line on my 74 bug. Any suggestions where to >> look for good instructions on this? Do you guys have any opinons on >> steel lines vs. zinc plated? >> >> tim > > The Main line to the rear? I don't recall seeing any > how-to articles. > > Follow the contour of the old one. You can get at the > M/C end by removing the wheel or (better) taking the > tank out. > > The really big problem is the fitting at the rear. > It is a TEE fitting bolted to the underside of the > pan. It's almost impossible to get the flare nut > loose to take the old line out. Best is to drop the > TEE down by unbolting it (if it co-operates). > > There is a rubber grommet at each end where the > line passes thru the bulkhead. You have to be > creative to get the line thru it. Strongly > recommend applying caulking afterward to prevent > water leaks. > > I don't have any bias about types of lines. > > Speedy Jim > http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ |
#4
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Brakeline replacement
tricky wrote:
> Yeah - Like speedy said. That back one is a PITA ! > > I did mine with the body off, LOL! That's how it was done at the factory! That's how they could get away with burying the TEE fitting. Jim |
#5
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Brakeline replacement
> > > >> I need to replace the brake line on my 74 bug. Any suggestions where to > >> look for good instructions on this? Do you guys have any opinons on > >> steel lines vs. zinc plated? > >> I just did 2 main brake line replacements and they were both 74 , I started by taking out the drivers seat. It helps if you jack the drivers side up to move under comfortable, cut the old line at the nuts so you can get the ends off with a socket. string the line thru the front then under the heater cable tube then thruthe back pan hole. I find it easyier to loosen the 10mm bolt holding the T when tredding the new line. hope this helps. Mario Vintage Werks resto |
#6
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Brakeline replacement
Speedy Jim wrote: > tdfm wrote: > > > I need to replace the brake line on my 74 bug. Any suggestions where to > > look for good instructions on this? Do you guys have any opinons on > > steel lines vs. zinc plated? > > > > tim > > The Main line to the rear? I don't recall seeing any > how-to articles. > > Follow the contour of the old one. You can get at the > M/C end by removing the wheel or (better) taking the > tank out. > > The really big problem is the fitting at the rear. > It is a TEE fitting bolted to the underside of the > pan. It's almost impossible to get the flare nut > loose to take the old line out. Best is to drop the > TEE down by unbolting it (if it co-operates). > > There is a rubber grommet at each end where the > line passes thru the bulkhead. You have to be > creative to get the line thru it. Strongly > recommend applying caulking afterward to prevent > water leaks. > > I don't have any bias about types of lines. > > Speedy Jim > http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ Thanks for the information of the type of lines. My pan is nearing completion so was looking to renew the lines and have been looking on what kind of line to get. You not having bias on any type makes me feel better. Remco |
#7
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Brakeline replacement
I did mine with the body off... i was soooooo easy. lol but taking the
body off for that one bolt.... not an option. Its a real pain to get to, but it can be done. dw "tricky" > wrote in message ... > Yeah - Like speedy said. That back one is a PITA ! > > I did mine with the body off, but had to just tighten it a bit after the > body was on. > > I used Copper Line British Safety Approved. (I'm in the UK). > > Rich > > > |
#8
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Brakeline replacement
dragenwagen wrote: > I did mine with the body off... i was soooooo easy. lol but taking the > body off for that one bolt.... not an option. Its a real pain to get to, > but it can be done. > > dw I will be doing mine since I have the body off. Do you think it would be beneficial to just relocate that brass connector to an easier spot, while I can? > > > "tricky" > wrote in message > ... > > Yeah - Like speedy said. That back one is a PITA ! > > > > I did mine with the body off, but had to just tighten it a bit after the > > body was on. > > > > I used Copper Line British Safety Approved. (I'm in the UK). > > > > Rich > > > > > > |
#9
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Brakeline replacement
"Remco" > wrote in message ups.com... > > dragenwagen wrote: >> I did mine with the body off... i was soooooo easy. lol but taking the >> body off for that one bolt.... not an option. Its a real pain to get to, >> but it can be done. >> >> dw > > I will be doing mine since I have the body off. Do you think it would > be beneficial to just relocate that brass connector to an easier spot, > while I can? > > i have done several brakeline replacements...both full replacements and just the main to the back....i can honestly say, i have never had a problem....the TEE is in plain veiw and really not that hard to get to...take the LR tire off, and the accordian for the heat on that side....you can remove the screw that mounts the tee to the chassis to give you some "wiggle" room.... |
#10
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Brakeline replacement
Joey Tribiani wrote: > "Remco" > wrote in message > ups.com... > > > > dragenwagen wrote: > >> I did mine with the body off... i was soooooo easy. lol but taking the > >> body off for that one bolt.... not an option. Its a real pain to get to, > >> but it can be done. > >> > >> dw > > > > I will be doing mine since I have the body off. Do you think it would > > be beneficial to just relocate that brass connector to an easier spot, > > while I can? > > > > > > i have done several brakeline replacements...both full replacements and just > the main to the back....i can honestly say, i have never had a > problem....the TEE is in plain veiw and really not that hard to get > to...take the LR tire off, and the accordian for the heat on that > side....you can remove the screw that mounts the tee to the chassis to give > you some "wiggle" room.... Ok, thanks! I forgot exactly where that brake connector ends up in relation to the body with my IRS - it is a little hard to envision with the body off. I'll just leave it where it is, then. |
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