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#21
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On Wed, 12 Jan 2005, Comboverfish wrote:
>> Oh, come on, now, COF, I'm not sure it's a matter of sanity. I've had >> 40-year-old radiators re-cored, with fine results. As long as the tanks >> and brackets are intact, there's no reason not to reuse them. Of >> course, this assumes a *competent* radiator specialist who knows how to >> do the job right. >>> At this point the Tstat should be replaced at a real repair shop, not >>> a radiator specialist. And the vehicle should be diagnosed by a >>> mechanic. >> I'd reverse the order of those two suggestions, but I agree with them. > Yeah, but a radiator could be had for ~$160 plus markup. It doesn't > seem worth the hassle. Well, you're right on that one -- new complete radiators for my 40-year-old application cannot be had. |
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#22
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Hi - fan does turn on.
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#23
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Is it electric?
If so then you sure sound like you are looking at a t-stat or pump or head gasket. I would be letting it warm up with the rad cap off and watch what happens. If you get explosive burps, the t-stat could be sticking. If you get smoke or millions of tiny bubbles, suspect head gasket. If there is little to no flow visible, then suspect the pump. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's wrote: > > Hi - fan does turn on. |
#24
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> wrote in message
oups.com... >I have a 1990 Mits van that started overheating. May also be a head gasket on the way out ... Stewart DIBBS www.vysor.com/lancerproject |
#25
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#26
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#27
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"Mike Romain" > wrote in message ... > I would be suspecting the fan isn't turning on. > > Mike Good point. If it overheats at speed, of course, the fan is not likely the issue. If this isn't a thermostat, or a fan problem, I would start feeling nervous about a head gasket or cracked block. But diagnose first. |
#28
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Lots of guys have replaced water pumps and thermostats and
radiators, and have overlooked that lower rad hose. As they get old, the hoses tend to get soft. The water pump (usually) draws the water out of the rad through the lower hose, creating a low pressure condition that can, if the flow is high enough, collapse the hose and restrict the flow. This usually shows up at higher RPMs, never at idle. Revving the engine while watching the hose will catch it, as long as the engine is hot enough that the thermostat is wide open. Water pumps get worn bearings or leaky seals. Haven't heard of an impeller wearing out. A bad fan motor or switch is obvious. Replacing a thermostat can eliminate that possibility, or you could drop the old one into boiling water to see if it opens. Dan |
#29
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Lots of guys have replaced water pumps and thermostats and
radiators, and have overlooked that lower rad hose. As they get old, the hoses tend to get soft. The water pump (usually) draws the water out of the rad through the lower hose, creating a low pressure condition that can, if the flow is high enough, collapse the hose and restrict the flow. This usually shows up at higher RPMs, never at idle. Revving the engine while watching the hose will catch it, as long as the engine is hot enough that the thermostat is wide open. Water pumps get worn bearings or leaky seals. Haven't heard of an impeller wearing out. A bad fan motor or switch is obvious. Replacing a thermostat can eliminate that possibility, or you could drop the old one into boiling water to see if it opens. Dan |
#30
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If the vehicle has the proper mix and volume of coolant run the engine until it is warm . If the thermostat is working the upper hose and radiator will become warm.Feel around the radiator to be sure the entire radiator gets warm(no blockage) Watch Your Fingers!! Once this happens turn on the A/C,most PCM's will turn the fan on. I didnot see the entire post,is the overheating causing a poor running condition or is it just a guage indicating the temp? Are you useing/leaking coolant? |
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