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#1
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broke the bleeder screw
Hi out there, I think there was a little air in my brake lines, and
when I went to bleed the brakes one of my screws broke off, just about flush with the caliper. There is no leakeage of brake fluid, but I want to get that screw out and put in a good one. I got one from the junkyard. Does anyone know of a tool of some sort that could somehow get the screw out? Any and all help appreciated! |
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#2
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#3
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I have tried with no luck and have never seen anyone have any success
getting a broken bleeder out. For the time and effort, usually it is cheaper/easier to replace the whole thing. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's wrote: > > Hi out there, I think there was a little air in my brake lines, and > when I went to bleed the brakes one of my screws broke off, just about > flush with the caliper. There is no leakeage of brake fluid, but I > want to get that screw out and put in a good one. I got one from the > junkyard. Does anyone know of a tool of some sort that could somehow > get the screw out? Any and all help appreciated! |
#5
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While you were at the boneyard, you shoulda grabbed the whole caliper,
would have been the way to fly. Take it home, bolt it on, have a nice day. You already know the bleeder is loose too. Good luck. |
#6
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Winston wrote:
> wrote: > Well, I can see that my links for a left hand drill bit are less than functional. Try it the old - fashioned way: Log to http://www.mcmaster.com/ In the Search window near the top left corner of your screen, type in the phrase: left hand drill Page 2281 of their catalog should pop up. Scroll to the bottom of the page and select a drill that is slightly smaller than the minor diameter of the tapped hole for your bleeder screw. It should cost you less than US $10. Now you are all set! --Winston |
#7
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I'm not a mechanic and I don't really know if this would work but maybe you
could loosen the brake line at the caliper and blead some air out. Maybe it would help to remove the caliper and position it so the line is on top. Nah, this is crazy, don't try it. Sometimes new/rebuilt calipers are amasingly cheap. John "Winston" > wrote in message ... > Winston wrote: > > wrote: > > > Well, I can see that my links for a left hand drill bit > are less than functional. Try it the old - fashioned way: > Log to http://www.mcmaster.com/ > > In the Search window near the top left corner of your > screen, type in the phrase: > > left hand drill > > Page 2281 of their catalog should pop up. Scroll to the > bottom of the page and select a drill that is slightly > smaller than the minor diameter of the tapped hole for > your bleeder screw. It should cost you less than > US $10. > > Now you are all set! > > > --Winston > |
#8
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On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 09:27:09 -0800, Winston >
wrote: >Winston wrote: >> wrote: >> >Well, I can see that my links for a left hand drill bit >are less than functional. Try it the old - fashioned way: >Log to http://www.mcmaster.com/ > >In the Search window near the top left corner of your >screen, type in the phrase: > >left hand drill > >Page 2281 of their catalog should pop up. Scroll to the >bottom of the page and select a drill that is slightly >smaller than the minor diameter of the tapped hole for >your bleeder screw. It should cost you less than >US $10. > >Now you are all set! > > >--Winston IIRC, Sears has or used to have them in the stores. FWIW YMMV DFB "When a legislature undertakes to proscribe the exercise of a citizen's constitutional rights it acts lawlessly and the citizen can take matters into his own hands and proceed on the basis that such a law is no law at all." - Justice William O. Douglas |
#9
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Seeing as how it broke off flush with the caliper, it won't hurt to try and
remove this because you'll probably have to replace it anyway. Bleeding through the brake line would often work on wheel cylindres, but any air in a caliper tends to migrate to the top of the fluid chamber - where the bleeder is located. I would suggest slightly enlarging the ID of the bleeder screw using a standard drill bit, and then using an EZ Out screw extracter to remove the broken bleeder. A few tips: Try drilling different size holes in a piece of scrap material and then checking how well the EZ Out engages it. Use the replacement bleeder screw as a guide for how deep you can drill Heat never hurts - use a propane torch to heat the caliper immediately around the screw hole just prior to using the EZ Out I've done this job quite a few times over the years - sometimes it works, sometimes not. But if you are going to need to replace it anyway, give it a go!! doug > wrote in message ups.com... > Hi out there, I think there was a little air in my brake lines, and > when I went to bleed the brakes one of my screws broke off, just about > flush with the caliper. There is no leakeage of brake fluid, but I > want to get that screw out and put in a good one. I got one from the > junkyard. Does anyone know of a tool of some sort that could somehow > get the screw out? Any and all help appreciated! > |
#10
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"doug" > wrote in message ... > Seeing as how it broke off flush with the caliper, it won't hurt to try and > remove this because you'll probably have to replace it anyway. Bleeding > through the brake line would often work on wheel cylindres, but any air in a > caliper tends to migrate to the top of the fluid chamber - where the bleeder > is located. > > I would suggest slightly enlarging the ID of the bleeder screw using a > standard drill bit, and then using an EZ Out screw extracter to remove the > broken bleeder. > > A few tips: > > Try drilling different size holes in a piece of scrap material and then > checking how well the EZ Out engages it. > Use the replacement bleeder screw as a guide for how deep you can drill > Heat never hurts - use a propane torch to heat the caliper immediately > around the screw hole just prior to using the EZ Out > > I've done this job quite a few times over the years - sometimes it works, > sometimes not. But if you are going to need to replace it anyway, give it a > go!! > > doug I've used the same basic procedure that Doug has, with a couple of small differences. After heating with a propane torch, I use a penetrating oil on it while it is still hot and expanded. BE CAREFUL, as most penetrants are flammable. I also have a very small (approx. 1/4" wide) chisel that I have used to turn broken bleeders out, often after drilling. You can also try using a chisel or small drift punch to collapse the bleeder inward after drilling. Good luck. Ken |
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