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Value of '71?



 
 
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  #1  
Old February 24th 05, 06:55 PM
tony kujawa
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Default Value of '71?

There is a red '71 by me for sale and I'd like to know if it is worth
looking at or not. I have not seen it yet, but am going tomorrow or
Saturday. 350 (Not original) 4 speed, A/C, PW, $8500. I had a 68 about 6
years ago that was a decent driver that I bought and sold for $6500. I'm
sure that very car would fetch 10K today. All that being said, if this 71
is in the same shape as my 68 was, I'm jumping on it. I guess I just need
some confirmation of what you all think. I'm just looking for a decent
driver, no desire to restore. I knew my 68 pretty well and the inherent
problems they had so I'm not going into this blind, I was just wondering if
there are any frame issues I should look for. i.e. weak spots where it may
rust out etc.

Thanks, Tony


Ads
  #2  
Old February 24th 05, 08:23 PM
WayneC
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Default

tony kujawa wrote:
> There is a red '71 by me for sale and I'd like to know if it is worth
> looking at or not. I have not seen it yet, but am going tomorrow or
> Saturday. 350 (Not original) 4 speed, A/C, PW, $8500. I had a 68 about 6
> years ago that was a decent driver that I bought and sold for $6500. I'm
> sure that very car would fetch 10K today. All that being said, if this 71
> is in the same shape as my 68 was, I'm jumping on it. I guess I just need
> some confirmation of what you all think. I'm just looking for a decent
> driver, no desire to restore. I knew my 68 pretty well and the inherent
> problems they had so I'm not going into this blind, I was just wondering if
> there are any frame issues I should look for. i.e. weak spots where it may
> rust out etc.
>
> Thanks, Tony
>
>

Should be well worth the money if it's a decent driver (even more so if
it's a convertible).

Check for an even fit of the doors to the body, large differences in
spacing along the front and rear vertical edges from the top to the
bottom can be a harbinger of frame rust or collision damage.

Look for serious rust in the area where the trailing arms bolt to the
frame (forward of the rear wheel kickups) and for signs of rust in the
metal birdcage around the front of the door openings (especially inside
the hinge pockets, and where the pillar meets the doorsill) and around
the windshield (you may have to lift carpet and peer up under the dash
with a flashlight, etc). Frame rust can be repaired (or the frame
replaced), but that's very expensive; serious birdcage rust is
definitely a deal-breaker.

Look for signs of body damage on the underside of panels and around
headlights and wheel wells, and for telltale serious stress cracking in
the paint, because repair and repaint will cost more than you pay for
the car. Window relacement isn't cheap, either.
  #3  
Old February 24th 05, 08:28 PM
tony kujawa
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Default


"WayneC" > wrote in message
...
> tony kujawa wrote:
> > There is a red '71 by me for sale and I'd like to know if it is worth
> > looking at or not. I have not seen it yet, but am going tomorrow or
> > Saturday. 350 (Not original) 4 speed, A/C, PW, $8500. I had a 68 about

6
> > years ago that was a decent driver that I bought and sold for $6500.

I'm
> > sure that very car would fetch 10K today. All that being said, if this

71
> > is in the same shape as my 68 was, I'm jumping on it. I guess I just

need
> > some confirmation of what you all think. I'm just looking for a decent
> > driver, no desire to restore. I knew my 68 pretty well and the inherent
> > problems they had so I'm not going into this blind, I was just wondering

if
> > there are any frame issues I should look for. i.e. weak spots where it

may
> > rust out etc.
> >
> > Thanks, Tony
> >
> >

> Should be well worth the money if it's a decent driver (even more so if
> it's a convertible).
>
> Check for an even fit of the doors to the body, large differences in
> spacing along the front and rear vertical edges from the top to the
> bottom can be a harbinger of frame rust or collision damage.
>
> Look for serious rust in the area where the trailing arms bolt to the
> frame (forward of the rear wheel kickups) and for signs of rust in the
> metal birdcage around the front of the door openings (especially inside
> the hinge pockets, and where the pillar meets the doorsill) and around
> the windshield (you may have to lift carpet and peer up under the dash
> with a flashlight, etc). Frame rust can be repaired (or the frame
> replaced), but that's very expensive; serious birdcage rust is
> definitely a deal-breaker.
>
> Look for signs of body damage on the underside of panels and around
> headlights and wheel wells, and for telltale serious stress cracking in
> the paint, because repair and repaint will cost more than you pay for
> the car. Window relacement isn't cheap, either.


THANKS! I'm printing this out, great advise.

Tony


  #4  
Old February 24th 05, 10:44 PM
Bob G.
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Default

On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 12:55:19 -0500, "tony kujawa"
> wrote:

>There is a red '71 by me for sale and I'd like to know if it is worth
>looking at or not. I have not seen it yet, but am going tomorrow or
>Saturday. 350 (Not original) 4 speed, A/C, PW, $8500. I had a 68 about 6
>years ago that was a decent driver that I bought and sold for $6500. I'm
>sure that very car would fetch 10K today. All that being said, if this 71
>is in the same shape as my 68 was, I'm jumping on it. I guess I just need
>some confirmation of what you all think. I'm just looking for a decent
>driver, no desire to restore. I knew my 68 pretty well and the inherent
>problems they had so I'm not going into this blind, I was just wondering if
>there are any frame issues I should look for. i.e. weak spots where it may
>rust out etc.
>
>Thanks, Tony
>

====================
Impossible to even give an opinion....

That said you should have enough experience gained via your 68 to make
a reasonable decision...

That said...my NOM 72 Ragtop would NOT leave my hands for twice the
asking price of this 71 and it is nowhere near "perfect" .t even if it
were for sale...

Look it over.. see what it needs then walk or buy

Bob Griffiths
64 72 76 79 & 95 Corvettes
Come to think of it NONE of my Corvettes wouild leave my hands for
$8500.
  #5  
Old February 25th 05, 02:09 PM
tony kujawa
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Posts: n/a
Default


"Bob G." > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 12:55:19 -0500, "tony kujawa"
> > wrote:
>
> >There is a red '71 by me for sale and I'd like to know if it is worth
> >looking at or not. I have not seen it yet, but am going tomorrow or
> >Saturday. 350 (Not original) 4 speed, A/C, PW, $8500. I had a 68 about

6
> >years ago that was a decent driver that I bought and sold for $6500. I'm
> >sure that very car would fetch 10K today. All that being said, if this

71
> >is in the same shape as my 68 was, I'm jumping on it. I guess I just

need
> >some confirmation of what you all think. I'm just looking for a decent
> >driver, no desire to restore. I knew my 68 pretty well and the inherent
> >problems they had so I'm not going into this blind, I was just wondering

if
> >there are any frame issues I should look for. i.e. weak spots where it

may
> >rust out etc.
> >
> >Thanks, Tony
> >

> ====================
> Impossible to even give an opinion....
>
> That said you should have enough experience gained via your 68 to make
> a reasonable decision...


Yes, with WayneC's advise I think I'm pretty well informed.



>
> That said...my NOM 72 Ragtop would NOT leave my hands for twice the
> asking price of this 71 and it is nowhere near "perfect" .t even if it
> were for sale...



Yeah, I bought my 68 when I was like 26 with 1 young one and another on the
way. I had no business buying it then, and had to sell. Now I am no longer
with the money sucking ball and chain, have come along in my career, and
inherated some $. I want a Stingray again.




> Look it over.. see what it needs then walk or buy
>
> Bob Griffiths
> 64 72 76 79 & 95 Corvettes
> Come to think of it NONE of my Corvettes wouild leave my hands for
> $8500.



  #6  
Old February 26th 05, 12:20 AM
dave
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Default

Major things to look at for that year :

1. Rusted frame just in front of the rear wheels.

2. Windshield pillar rusting ..on the top and both sides.

3. Check all fenders inside on the top, for being in a wreck.

  #8  
Old March 5th 05, 10:55 AM
ThaDriver
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Posts: n/a
Default

>>3. Check all fenders inside on the top, for being in a wreck.
>You lost me on this one...I have no doubt you have your

reasons what I honestly would like to know is why do you specifically
say inside on top... Inside I can understand (anywhere)...
*******
I think he's talking about *under* the fenders at the wheel arch. When hit
that's the most likely place for them to crack, & a lot of folks will just
fiberglass them back instead of replacing parts. Of course, if done right
there's nothing wrong with that for a daily driver.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!


  #9  
Old March 5th 05, 03:01 PM
Bob G.
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Default

On Sat, 05 Mar 2005 04:55:03 -0500, "ThaDriver"
<imangeloneAThotmailDOTcom@> wrote:

>>>3. Check all fenders inside on the top, for being in a wreck.

>>You lost me on this one...I have no doubt you have your

>reasons what I honestly would like to know is why do you specifically
>say inside on top... Inside I can understand (anywhere)...
>*******
>I think he's talking about *under* the fenders at the wheel arch. When hit
>that's the most likely place for them to crack, & a lot of folks will just
>fiberglass them back instead of replacing parts. Of course, if done right
>there's nothing wrong with that for a daily driver.
>~ Paul
>aka "Tha Driver"
>
>Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!
>

=================================
Ok I think you are correct on what the OP meant....

It is the "HEY I KNOW my stuff" ....move... many Corvette Lookers
preform to impress their girl friend when they are looking at a
Corvette... LOL...

I see that "move" every weekend....

Bob Griffiths
  #10  
Old March 6th 05, 04:44 PM
The Truth Squad
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Default

why not look in dave's empty head? lots of luggage room in there

 




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