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Gland nut removal on an automatic



 
 
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  #1  
Old January 26th 05, 03:31 AM
Animal
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Default Gland nut removal on an automatic

Group,

I inherited a '73 standard Beetle with an unknown engine and automatic
stick transaxle. I can not identify the engine because I'm a newbie and
the serial number is not located under the generator stand like the Muir
book and manual says it should be. Am I missing something, or is there
another way to tell what type this thing is?

My real question, though, has to do with the removal of the gland nut.
The Muir (I hope I'm spelling that right) goes into nice detail on how
to get this off a manual, but I can't seem to figure it out for what I
have. Note: The engine was not installed when I got the vehicle and is
in a few pieces already.

There is only a thin aluminum disc where the book says the flywheel
should be. This has a few holes on the outside edge, most of which look
like they've been bent, re-drilled, bent again, then pounded into
submission. Are these the holes where I am supposed to attach dowels
which in turn hold down a metal bar, which then keeps the crank from
turning as I loosen the nut?

Thanks,
Animal
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  #2  
Old January 26th 05, 04:12 AM
Scott H
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"Animal" wrote ...
> Group,
>
> I inherited a '73 standard Beetle with an unknown engine and automatic
> stick transaxle. I can not identify the engine because I'm a newbie and
> the serial number is not located under the generator stand like the Muir
> book and manual says it should be. Am I missing something, or is there
> another way to tell what type this thing is?
>
> My real question, though, has to do with the removal of the gland nut.
> The Muir (I hope I'm spelling that right) goes into nice detail on how
> to get this off a manual, but I can't seem to figure it out for what I
> have. Note: The engine was not installed when I got the vehicle and is
> in a few pieces already.
>
> There is only a thin aluminum disc where the book says the flywheel
> should be. This has a few holes on the outside edge, most of which look
> like they've been bent, re-drilled, bent again, then pounded into
> submission. Are these the holes where I am supposed to attach dowels
> which in turn hold down a metal bar, which then keeps the crank from
> turning as I loosen the nut?


Check out this site:
http://vwar.org/

Specifically, this page:
http://www.volks.org/vwar/tecnical/the_nut.php

hth

--
Scott





  #3  
Old January 26th 05, 04:13 AM
Speedy Jim
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Posts: n/a
Default

Animal wrote:

> Group,
>
> I inherited a '73 standard Beetle with an unknown engine and automatic
> stick transaxle. I can not identify the engine because I'm a newbie and
> the serial number is not located under the generator stand like the Muir
> book and manual says it should be. Am I missing something, or is there
> another way to tell what type this thing is?
>
> My real question, though, has to do with the removal of the gland nut.
> The Muir (I hope I'm spelling that right) goes into nice detail on how
> to get this off a manual, but I can't seem to figure it out for what I
> have. Note: The engine was not installed when I got the vehicle and is
> in a few pieces already.
>
> There is only a thin aluminum disc where the book says the flywheel
> should be. This has a few holes on the outside edge, most of which look
> like they've been bent, re-drilled, bent again, then pounded into
> submission. Are these the holes where I am supposed to attach dowels
> which in turn hold down a metal bar, which then keeps the crank from
> turning as I loosen the nut?
>
> Thanks,
> Animal


You may be screwed, but we'll go over a few things.

1. Buy the Bentley Official Manual for '70 thru '79 Beetle.
Good section on the autostick.

2. The holes in the outer edge of the drive plate are for
very special bolts which connect the drive plate to the
torque converter.

3. There is a special tool which locks the teeth on the
"flywheel" (drive plate) to the case so the gland nut can
be loosened.
You may be better off dragging the engine to a tire shop and
have them impact it off.

Why are you removing the drive plate?

If the intake manifold has 2 rubber booties on it,
chances are this is a 1600cc engine, correct for '73.

Do get the manual.

There is a forum just for autosticks:
http://www.stickshift.de/


Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
  #4  
Old January 26th 05, 04:20 AM
Remco
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The gland nut is what holds the flywheel on, no?

You need to lock the flywheel in so you can take a breaker bar or
pneumatic impact wrench to it. That locking is done with a special
tool: http://vwsplace.com/Images/tools.jpg (it is the tool in the
middle of the picture -- vwplace.com sells it for around $5).
They sell a number of clever little tools -- as you dig into the car,
their usefulness will become cleaer.

As one VW newbie to another, get all the manuals you can afford -
Bentley's VW bug manual is very detailed. You may want to look into
getting the bugme videos (www.bugmevideo.com). Those CDs are the best
tools you can have and explain it all very well in a friendly easygoing
style.
Also stay tuned to this newsgroup - there are some really knowledgeable
nice people here.

Regards,
Remco

  #5  
Old January 26th 05, 06:09 AM
Animal
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Posts: n/a
Default

Speedy Jim wrote:
> Animal wrote:
>

{snip}
>>
>> There is only a thin aluminum disc where the book says the flywheel
>> should be. This has a few holes on the outside edge, most of which
>> look like they've been bent, re-drilled, bent again, then pounded into
>> submission. Are these the holes where I am supposed to attach dowels
>> which in turn hold down a metal bar, which then keeps the crank from
>> turning as I loosen the nut?

{snip}
>
> You may be screwed, but we'll go over a few things.
>
> 1. Buy the Bentley Official Manual for '70 thru '79 Beetle.
> Good section on the autostick.


I'll get it.
>
> 2. The holes in the outer edge of the drive plate are for
> very special bolts which connect the drive plate to the
> torque converter.


If I find a torque converter in the pile of parts, could I reattach it
and then remove the nut normally?

>
> 3. There is a special tool which locks the teeth on the
> "flywheel" (drive plate) to the case so the gland nut can
> be loosened.


I bought one of those already.

> You may be better off dragging the engine to a tire shop and
> have them impact it off.
>
> Why are you removing the drive plate?


The engine needs to be completely torn apart and rebuilt, at least. When
I tipped the engine over, nice rusty water poured out of the intake and
exhaust manifold.
{snip}
>
> Speedy Jim
> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/


Remember that I got this thing (pieces) free, so I've nothing to lose. I
would rather not spend the money up-front on a turn-key, but would
rather learn-by-doing on this probably-broken-forever engine first. If I
absolutely can not tear it apart or if it can't be rebuilt, then I'll
fork out the ~$1.5K for a new one.

Thanks for the advice.
  #6  
Old January 26th 05, 06:11 AM
Animal
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Posts: n/a
Default

Remco wrote:
> The gland nut is what holds the flywheel on, no?
>

{snip}
>
> Regards,
> Remco
>


That's what I thought and that's what the books say, but there ain't
nothing. One side has a belt pulley, the other has this thin metal disc
with no teeth on the outside edge.

Animal
  #7  
Old January 26th 05, 04:37 PM
Speedy Jim
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Default

Animal wrote:

> Remco wrote:
>
>> The gland nut is what holds the flywheel on, no?
>>

> {snip}
>
>>
>> Regards,
>> Remco
>>

>
> That's what I thought and that's what the books say, but there ain't
> nothing. One side has a belt pulley, the other has this thin metal disc
> with no teeth on the outside edge.
>
> Animal


LOL! Had I bothered to read *my*manual, it would have
jogged my memory that the teeth are on the converter,
not the drive plate.

Impact it off and be done with it.

As for tearing the engine down, go for it; it will be
an excellent learning experience.

-------------------------------------------------------

Now, before anyone asks, this is what you will
need to convert the car to 4-speed:


You need a lot! Helps to have a complete donor car
of the same vintage.

A tranny, of course. Make sure it has the same
front mount and rear mount design.
(It changed in '73)

If you will be using the old engine, you'll need
a flywheel, pressure plate, clutch.
Make sure the pressure plate is compatible with the tranny
you use. (That combo changed in '71)

Oil pump. Your old engine has a dual oil pump.
Either replace the pump with the single stage or disable
the second stage and block the lines off.

Complete pedal assy.

Shift Lever.

Shift Rod (in the tunnel) Yep, auto and 4-speed
are different. They also differed in length by year
so you need to get one from a similar year.

Clutch cable conduit (in the tunnel).
Some later years already have a spare conduit in the tunnel.
Check for this first thing. If no tube, you'll have to snake one
in and weld it.



Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

 




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