A Cars forum. AutoBanter

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » AutoBanter forum » Auto newsgroups » 4x4
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

starting problem with 87 bronco,part 2



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old May 29th 05, 09:32 PM
nkbronco
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default starting problem with 87 bronco,part 2

I cleaned every connection, got starter tested, its ok. Still nothing when
I turn the key, battery fully charged, all other electrical works. I
couldn't get to the negative ground on block, so I bought a new negative
cable and grounded it on the bolt on the emissions pump bracket. I am
stumped now. Any ideas? Thank you.

Ads
  #2  
Old May 29th 05, 10:38 PM
Mike Romain
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I would try a booster cable from the battery negative to the firewall
next, then to the base of the solenoid. If the body ground is bad, the
ignition sometimes won't work. The solenoid needs a good ground to
fire.

Did you get the correct solenoid? Some of them look identical, but the
side terminal isn't hooked the same so maybe the trigger from the
starter is on the wrong post.

Does the key go to the 'acc' position or the 'run' position correctly
with the dash lights coming on in the 'run'?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

nkbronco wrote:
>
> I cleaned every connection, got starter tested, its ok. Still nothing when
> I turn the key, battery fully charged, all other electrical works. I
> couldn't get to the negative ground on block, so I bought a new negative
> cable and grounded it on the bolt on the emissions pump bracket. I am
> stumped now. Any ideas? Thank you.

  #3  
Old May 29th 05, 11:11 PM
nkbronco
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thank you. Is a booster cable a second cable or something? I thought the
ground I made on the emissions pump bracket didn't look to good. You mean
run the ground from the negative battery post to the firewall, then from
that same bolt back to the negative side of the selanoid? About the
selanoid, it did look the same, but the main posts on each side that
everything goes on were slightly bigger, I had to buy new larger nuts to
put on them to hold everything tight. I did wonder if it was maybe the
wrong one. The shape and number of posts and places of everything looks
the same. Thought about maybe going to the Ford dealer on tuesday for a
different one, I bought this one at schucks. Thanks for the info.

  #4  
Old May 29th 05, 11:13 PM
nkbronco
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Ya, the dash lights come on in the run position.

  #5  
Old May 29th 05, 11:53 PM
Mike Romain
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I use the booster cable to verify connections. You could be missing the
engine to body ground strap and the engine is rubber mounted.....

You might want to even run the booster cable to the block to verify that
pump connection.

One of the small side posts for the solenoid is the power trigger. It
need power there and a good ground on the base to make the starter
connection. I have seen lots of rusty fenders that crapped out
solenoids, even more dead grounds that caused it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

nkbronco wrote:
>
> Thank you. Is a booster cable a second cable or something? I thought the
> ground I made on the emissions pump bracket didn't look to good. You mean
> run the ground from the negative battery post to the firewall, then from
> that same bolt back to the negative side of the selanoid? About the
> selanoid, it did look the same, but the main posts on each side that
> everything goes on were slightly bigger, I had to buy new larger nuts to
> put on them to hold everything tight. I did wonder if it was maybe the
> wrong one. The shape and number of posts and places of everything looks
> the same. Thought about maybe going to the Ford dealer on tuesday for a
> different one, I bought this one at schucks. Thanks for the info.

  #6  
Old May 30th 05, 02:10 AM
Peter D. Hipson
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Sun, 29 May 2005 16:32:46 -0400, "nkbronco" >
wrote:

>I cleaned every connection, got starter tested, its ok. Still nothing when
>I turn the key, battery fully charged, all other electrical works. I
>couldn't get to the negative ground on block, so I bought a new negative
>cable and grounded it on the bolt on the emissions pump bracket. I am
>stumped now. Any ideas? Thank you.


Is this a automatic or stick?

  #7  
Old May 30th 05, 08:04 AM
nkbronco
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Hi, it is an automatic. I tried the booster cable thing, didn't matter how
I tried to ground the negative, I still get nothing when I turn the key as
far as the starter turning. The dash lights come on, but the motor and
starter are totally dead. I am thinking about going to the Ford
dealership and buying another selanoid to try and make sure I have exactly
the right one on Tuesday. Don't know what else to do.
Thanks, Nate

  #8  
Old May 30th 05, 01:31 PM
Mike Romain
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Ok, I would then try to start it with the shifter in neutral! Maybe the
safety switch has got out of adjustment.

You also 'can' just start it up with a booster cable and the key in run
and the tranny in park. You put the booster cable on the positive
battery post and touch the post on the starter side of the solenoid
where the heavy cable hooks on.

This 'must' cause the starter to spin up. Make sure it isn't in gear
first or it will take off!!!!

If it does not spin up, you have a bad power cable, dirty connection on
the starter, bad starter or no engine block ground. Or a freaking dead
battery!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

nkbronco wrote:
>
> Hi, it is an automatic. I tried the booster cable thing, didn't matter how
> I tried to ground the negative, I still get nothing when I turn the key as
> far as the starter turning. The dash lights come on, but the motor and
> starter are totally dead. I am thinking about going to the Ford
> dealership and buying another selanoid to try and make sure I have exactly
> the right one on Tuesday. Don't know what else to do.
> Thanks, Nate

  #9  
Old May 30th 05, 02:44 PM
Peter D. Hipson
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 30 May 2005 03:04:31 -0400, "nkbronco" >
wrote:

>Hi, it is an automatic. I tried the booster cable thing, didn't matter how


Neutral safety switch comes to mind...
  #10  
Old May 30th 05, 10:32 PM
nkbronco
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I also did all this with it in park and in nuetral. Same thing.

 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hard starting problem dodge 360 [email protected] Technology 9 March 21st 05 12:57 AM
89 Jeep Cherokee 4L Weird starting problem Glen Hudgin Jeep 8 March 13th 05 02:53 AM
Problem starting 530d (2001) Griff BMW 4 February 7th 05 10:56 AM
Starting problem thaiguy Dodge 2 July 19th 04 07:00 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 06:50 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 AutoBanter.
The comments are property of their posters.