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#1
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Ignitor / Main Relay on 92 Accord
Greetings,
I recently came across a 92 Accord that wasn't running quite right, but the price was right (50 bucks). My girlfriends old Honda had the same problem so I started checking into the main relay and Ignitor. The main relay had some dry sockets and after I fixed it the Accord ran better but still would run badly at low RPMs, sometimes dying and not wanting to start again. I then went after the Ignitor which I replaced at the same time as the rotar. The Accord now runs better, but still seems to idle poorly, with fits and starts. When you get it up to about 1.5K RPM it runs like a champ. It also still seems to idle rougher the longer its been started.... So what did I miss? Did I miss something in main relay that I need to go back and catch? Is there something else? Is it just a matter of the car sitting for a long time before it was handed over to me (I ran most of the old gas out and added new)? Any help would be great. Thanks D |
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#2
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> wrote
> I recently came across a 92 Accord that wasn't running quite right, but > the price was right (50 bucks). > > My girlfriends old Honda had the same problem so I started checking > into the main relay and Ignitor. The main relay had some dry sockets > and after I fixed it the Accord ran better but still would run badly at > low RPMs, sometimes dying and not wanting to start again. I then went > after the Ignitor which I replaced at the same time as the rotar. > > The Accord now runs better, but still seems to idle poorly, with fits > and starts. When you get it up to about 1.5K RPM it runs like a champ. > It also still seems to idle rougher the longer its been started.... > > So what did I miss? Did I miss something in main relay that I need to > go back and catch? Is there something else? Is it just a matter of the > car sitting for a long time before it was handed over to me (I ran most > of the old gas out and added new)? Any help would be great. On the cheap side, and for things you'd do anyway within a couple of years, try replacing: Plugs Plug wires Air filter Fuel filter Also, check the radiator coolant level. If there is any question about air being in the radiator cooling system, purge the cooling system of air. That costs nothing but your time. The cooling system cools not just the engine but some engine control components. If these components are not being cooled properly, idle problems may occur. (Though last summer, my idle problems were on the high side. An air purge of the cooling system fixed this.) Then consider replacing the distributor coil. Especially if the dying and not starting again for awhile happens after the car is warmed up. A bad coil can damage a good distributor. Check the timing, too. It's probably not related to the idling/dying problem above, but consider replacing the PCV valve for $20 or so, too. Or at least check and inspect it. |
#3
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"Elle" > wrote
> A bad coil can damage a good distributor. Oops. Post-o. That should read, "A bad coil can damage a good ignitor." |
#4
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"Elle" > wrote in
ink.net: > > wrote >> So what did I miss? Did I miss something in main relay that I need to >> go back and catch? Is there something else? Is it just a matter of >> the car sitting for a long time before it was handed over to me (I >> ran most of the old gas out and added new)? Any help would be great. > > On the cheap side, and for things you'd do anyway within a couple of > years, try replacing: > Plugs > Plug wires That can have a BIG effect on power. Use OEM. > Air filter > Fuel filter Also clean the throttle body and EACV, then readjust the idle speed. Check as well for oil in the throttle body and intake tube. This points to a plugged (sludged up) PCV valve. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#5
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