96 LHS problem

Ok if the vehicle is drivable i would not suspect a timing belt issue, by
the exhaust being cooler on one side then the other i would suspect maybe
a cylinder misfire or even 2 on the same side, thats why it is colder,The
plug(s) possibly arent firing causing it to run cooler and the raw gas is
also cooling the manifold, i new it wasnt water in the system, you need to
check to see what fault codes are in ther memory..once again, when was the
last time this engine had plugs and wires installed????Having PC issues
here now, maybe be a multiple post coming

JWald wrote:

> Mic,
> I don't know. We do not have a code reader. Sorry.

Cycle the ignition key 3 times (without starting) and leave in the "on"
position, then count flashes on the "check engine" light. Those are your
codes. The procedure is detailed on allpar.com.

JWald wrote:

> Mic,
> I don't know. We do not have a code reader. Sorry.

Cycle the ignition key 3 times (without starting) and leave in the "on"
position, then count flashes on the "check engine" light. Those are your
codes. The procedure is detailed on allpar.com.

i thinki would do a compression test on the cylinders and see if that side
has some washed out valves/springs since the temp is so low

damnnickname wrote:

> Ok if the vehicle is drivable i would not suspect a timing belt issue, by
> the exhaust being cooler on one side then the other i would suspect maybe
> a cylinder misfire or even 2 on the same side, thats why it is colder,The
> plug(s) possibly arent firing causing it to run cooler and the raw gas is
> also cooling the manifold, i new it wasnt water in the system, you need to
> check to see what fault codes are in ther memory..once again, when was the
> last time this engine had plugs and wires installed????Having PC issues
> here now, maybe be a multiple post coming

i thinki would do a compression test on the cylinders and see if that side
has some washed out valves/springs since the temp is so low

damnnickname wrote:

> Ok if the vehicle is drivable i would not suspect a timing belt issue, by
> the exhaust being cooler on one side then the other i would suspect maybe
> a cylinder misfire or even 2 on the same side, thats why it is colder,The
> plug(s) possibly arent firing causing it to run cooler and the raw gas is
> also cooling the manifold, i new it wasnt water in the system, you need to
> check to see what fault codes are in ther memory..once again, when was the
> last time this engine had plugs and wires installed????Having PC issues
> here now, maybe be a multiple post coming

It's fixed. Timing belt was bad and it jumped out of time. Only problem is
that I think she got screwed on the repair bill. As she was out of town at
the time of the breakdown, I think the guy took advantage of her and
replaced a bunch of stuff that didn't seem to be needed. In addition to the
belt, she got a water pump, thermostat/gasket, a couple of pulleys, plugs,
oil change, and something else. With labor.... $790.
--
jwald
"Steve" > wrote in message
...
> JWald wrote:
>
>> Mic,
>> I don't know. We do not have a code reader. Sorry.
>
> Cycle the ignition key 3 times (without starting) and leave in the "on"
> position, then count flashes on the "check engine" light. Those are your
> codes. The procedure is detailed on allpar.com.

It's fixed. Timing belt was bad and it jumped out of time. Only problem is
that I think she got screwed on the repair bill. As she was out of town at
the time of the breakdown, I think the guy took advantage of her and
replaced a bunch of stuff that didn't seem to be needed. In addition to the
belt, she got a water pump, thermostat/gasket, a couple of pulleys, plugs,
oil change, and something else. With labor.... $790.
--
jwald
"Steve" > wrote in message
...
> JWald wrote:
>
>> Mic,
>> I don't know. We do not have a code reader. Sorry.
>
> Cycle the ignition key 3 times (without starting) and leave in the "on"
> position, then count flashes on the "check engine" light. Those are your
> codes. The procedure is detailed on allpar.com.

In article >,
"JWald" > wrote:

> It's fixed. Timing belt was bad and it jumped out of time. Only problem is
> that I think she got screwed on the repair bill. As she was out of town at
> the time of the breakdown, I think the guy took advantage of her and
> replaced a bunch of stuff that didn't seem to be needed. In addition to the
> belt, she got a water pump, thermostat/gasket, a couple of pulleys, plugs,
> oil change, and something else. With labor.... $790.

Just like I said...

As for your suspicions that she was taken advantage of;
the water pump is normally replaced when the T-belt is replaced,
and it is very likely the cause of the failure to begin with,
Spark plugs were a good call also since 3 of the cylinders were
not creating compression, they were probably fuel fouled.
T-stat, probably needed it, besides, you or we have no way of
knowing if it was working correctly, and since the coolant is
already drained to do the water pump, it's cheap preventative
maintenance.
Oil change, good call again, probably loaded with gasoline from
the dead cylinders.
Pulleys, probably the timing belt tensioner assembly, another
good call.
Hopefully, they replaced the O-rings behind the right side timing
belt cover also.

Sounds to me like your sister got a good thorough job done with
all the bases covered.

At 133K miles, you should ask her when the timing belt was last
changed, and explain to her that this is a maintenance item that
needs doing at periodic intervals.

In article >,
"JWald" > wrote:

> It's fixed. Timing belt was bad and it jumped out of time. Only problem is
> that I think she got screwed on the repair bill. As she was out of town at
> the time of the breakdown, I think the guy took advantage of her and
> replaced a bunch of stuff that didn't seem to be needed. In addition to the
> belt, she got a water pump, thermostat/gasket, a couple of pulleys, plugs,
> oil change, and something else. With labor.... $790.

Just like I said...

As for your suspicions that she was taken advantage of;
the water pump is normally replaced when the T-belt is replaced,
and it is very likely the cause of the failure to begin with,
Spark plugs were a good call also since 3 of the cylinders were
not creating compression, they were probably fuel fouled.
T-stat, probably needed it, besides, you or we have no way of
knowing if it was working correctly, and since the coolant is
already drained to do the water pump, it's cheap preventative
maintenance.
Oil change, good call again, probably loaded with gasoline from
the dead cylinders.
Pulleys, probably the timing belt tensioner assembly, another
good call.
Hopefully, they replaced the O-rings behind the right side timing
belt cover also.

Sounds to me like your sister got a good thorough job done with
all the bases covered.

At 133K miles, you should ask her when the timing belt was last
changed, and explain to her that this is a maintenance item that
needs doing at periodic intervals.

JWald wrote:

> It's fixed. Timing belt was bad and it jumped out of time. Only problem is
> that I think she got screwed on the repair bill. As she was out of town at
> the time of the breakdown, I think the guy took advantage of her and
> replaced a bunch of stuff that didn't seem to be needed. In addition to the
> belt, she got a water pump, thermostat/gasket, a couple of pulleys, plugs,
> oil change, and something else. With labor.... $790.


On the 3.5, it makes sense to change the water pump and timing belt
tensioner pulley while you're in there, and "getting in there" is most
of the labor cost. Since you have to drain the cooling system, a
thermostat makes sense too. A tensioner and water pump might add around
$150 to the total parts cost, almost nothing to the labor cost. OTOH, if
you put it all back together and the water pump were to fail in 5000
miles, you'd be paying several hundred in labor (again) PLUS the ~150
for the parts.

The oil change and any other pulleys besides the timing-belt tensioner
would be a rip off unless they were visibly damaged for some reason.