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On disabling the choke



 
 
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  #1  
Old May 27th 05, 12:02 PM
Jan
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Default On disabling the choke


Some, if not all versions of the Muir repair manual recommend disabling
the choke in order to save fuel.

My thoughts on that:

1) with the engine cold, you end up blipping teh throttle with your foot
to keep it running. The accelerator jets squirts raw gasoline into the
intake manifold each time, and thus you get a "pulsating" VERY rich
condition accompanied by a sudden rise (and fall) in engine RPM.
In my opinion it would be much better to have a steady, choke assisted
idle. You even SAVE FUEL this way.

2) disabling the choke mechanism by "wiring it open" and maybe
disconnecting the choke wire (You should), will render the choke
mechanism motionless. While this may be "okay" for the hot summer
months, you may have a stuck or poorly moving choke components come
wintertime, when you need it the next time. IMHO, it's better to leave
the system intact and keep the parts moving as they are intended

3) The "automatic" choke really isn't *all* automatic. YOu are supposed
to ADJUST IT twice a year, different position for the summer and winter
months. The choke element (round cylindrical thing on the right side of
the carb, with a wire connector sticking out the middle) is secured in
place with three small screws (slot head). Loosen all screws enough so
you can rotate the choke element, and turn it clockwise or
counterclockwise to adjust the choke. If you had the aircleaner off, and
held the throttle open, you would see the choke plate move as you turn
the choke element back and forth. Adjust it to where you want it, with
the engine COLD. Experiment a couple of times with different settings
until you get it to where you like it best. Allow the engine to cool off
completely between sessions. (like, overnight). Tighten the screws up
and forget about it for another 6 months or whatever.

Jan
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  #2  
Old May 27th 05, 01:31 PM
tricky
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Default

Thanks Jan

So I guess you could ajust it way back, so effectivly you are using just
a little choke in the summer, but the components keep moving freely.

Rich


Jan wrote:
>
> Some, if not all versions of the Muir repair manual recommend disabling
> the choke in order to save fuel.
>
> My thoughts on that:
>
> 1) with the engine cold, you end up blipping teh throttle with your foot
> to keep it running. The accelerator jets squirts raw gasoline into the
> intake manifold each time, and thus you get a "pulsating" VERY rich
> condition accompanied by a sudden rise (and fall) in engine RPM.
> In my opinion it would be much better to have a steady, choke assisted
> idle. You even SAVE FUEL this way.
>
> 2) disabling the choke mechanism by "wiring it open" and maybe
> disconnecting the choke wire (You should), will render the choke
> mechanism motionless. While this may be "okay" for the hot summer
> months, you may have a stuck or poorly moving choke components come
> wintertime, when you need it the next time. IMHO, it's better to leave
> the system intact and keep the parts moving as they are intended
>
> 3) The "automatic" choke really isn't *all* automatic. YOu are supposed
> to ADJUST IT twice a year, different position for the summer and winter
> months. The choke element (round cylindrical thing on the right side of
> the carb, with a wire connector sticking out the middle) is secured in
> place with three small screws (slot head). Loosen all screws enough so
> you can rotate the choke element, and turn it clockwise or
> counterclockwise to adjust the choke. If you had the aircleaner off, and
> held the throttle open, you would see the choke plate move as you turn
> the choke element back and forth. Adjust it to where you want it, with
> the engine COLD. Experiment a couple of times with different settings
> until you get it to where you like it best. Allow the engine to cool off
> completely between sessions. (like, overnight). Tighten the screws up
> and forget about it for another 6 months or whatever.
>
> Jan

  #3  
Old May 27th 05, 05:38 PM
Lorem Ipsum
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Default


"Jan" > wrote in message
...

> disconnecting the choke wire (You should), will render the choke mechanism
> motionless.


By doing that the choke is always on, no?



  #4  
Old May 27th 05, 06:55 PM
tricky
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Default

you would disconnect the wire AND adjust it
all the way back, taking the tension off the element.

Hypothetically of coarse ;-)

Lorem Ipsum wrote:

> "Jan" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>
>>disconnecting the choke wire (You should), will render the choke mechanism
>>motionless.

>
>
> By doing that the choke is always on, no?
>
>
>

  #5  
Old May 27th 05, 09:56 PM
Jan Andersson
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Posts: n/a
Default

Lorem Ipsum wrote:
>
> "Jan" > wrote in message
> ...
>
> > disconnecting the choke wire (You should), will render the choke mechanism
> > motionless.

>
> By doing that the choke is always on, no?


Yes. But that's the problem I described that results from the Muir
advice.

It was part of disabling the choke: you also jammed the mechanical
parts open all the time.
if you had the wire still on, it would mess up the bimetal coil hookup
to the choke mechanism lever inside.

I can't explain it, take it apart and you will see how it works.

Jan
  #6  
Old May 27th 05, 09:58 PM
Jan Andersson
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Posts: n/a
Default


Yea, good point

Jan

tricky wrote:
>
> you would disconnect the wire AND adjust it
> all the way back, taking the tension off the element.
>
> Hypothetically of coarse ;-)
>
> Lorem Ipsum wrote:
>
> > "Jan" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >
> >
> >>disconnecting the choke wire (You should), will render the choke mechanism
> >>motionless.

> >
> >
> > By doing that the choke is always on, no?
> >
> >
> >

  #7  
Old May 27th 05, 10:20 PM
Lorem Ipsum
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Jan Andersson" > wrote in message
...

> I can't explain it, take it apart and you will see how it works.


I have. We agree. I just missed the part where you said to ALSO turn the
thermo adjuster to keep it open.

FWIW, my dual 44s have an incomplete choke; the plungers for the enrichment
system seem to be in there but the area is capped off. I'd not mind coming
up with the external parts to make them work. It would sure shorten startup
time.


  #8  
Old May 28th 05, 03:11 AM
Eduardo K.
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Posts: n/a
Default

In article >,
Jan > wrote:
>
>Some, if not all versions of the Muir repair manual recommend disabling
>the choke in order to save fuel.
>


As someone who has benn tweaking his Peugeot Choke for a year
until his wife can drive it... I now hate carburatos and love
Fuel Inyection...



--
Eduardo K. |
http://www.carfun.cl | "World domination, now"
http://e.nn.cl | Linus Torvalds
  #9  
Old May 28th 05, 05:50 AM
KWW
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Posts: n/a
Default

Eduardo,
You do NOT hate carburators! You hate automatic chokes! You just did
not realize it! I have had two cars (years ago) that were DOGS. One would
sometimes just chug and chug down the road, running WAY too rich and bucking
and making life miserable. When I put a manual choke on it, the problems
went away! (that was a Chevette) I also added a manual choke to a '69 Nova
because GM was having problems getting the "choke thing" sorted out. They
were actually tollerable to drive after that.

I would like to figure out how to add a manual choke to my bug. The
eletric choke does work fairly well, I just like the control that a manual
choke provides.
KWW

"Eduardo K." > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> Jan > wrote:
> >
> >Some, if not all versions of the Muir repair manual recommend disabling
> >the choke in order to save fuel.
> >

>
> As someone who has benn tweaking his Peugeot Choke for a year
> until his wife can drive it... I now hate carburatos and love
> Fuel Inyection...
>
>
>
> --
> Eduardo K. |
> http://www.carfun.cl | "World domination, now"
> http://e.nn.cl | Linus Torvalds



  #10  
Old May 28th 05, 02:44 PM
tricky
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I guess it would be pretty easy. Without thinking about it too much, so
just an idea !

Run your self a cable to the choke, loosen the ajusting nuts, fix the
cable to it somehow, when you move the cable it effectivly 'ajusts' the
choke on and off ?

Anyone think this might work ?

Rich


KWW wrote:
> Eduardo,
> You do NOT hate carburators! You hate automatic chokes! You just did
> not realize it! I have had two cars (years ago) that were DOGS. One would
> sometimes just chug and chug down the road, running WAY too rich and bucking
> and making life miserable. When I put a manual choke on it, the problems
> went away! (that was a Chevette) I also added a manual choke to a '69 Nova
> because GM was having problems getting the "choke thing" sorted out. They
> were actually tollerable to drive after that.
>
> I would like to figure out how to add a manual choke to my bug. The
> eletric choke does work fairly well, I just like the control that a manual
> choke provides.
> KWW
>
> "Eduardo K." > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>In article >,
>>Jan > wrote:
>>
>>>Some, if not all versions of the Muir repair manual recommend disabling
>>>the choke in order to save fuel.
>>>

>>
>>As someone who has benn tweaking his Peugeot Choke for a year
>>until his wife can drive it... I now hate carburatos and love
>>Fuel Inyection...
>>
>>
>>
>>--
>>Eduardo K. |
>>http://www.carfun.cl | "World domination, now"
>>http://e.nn.cl | Linus Torvalds

>
>
>

 




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