odometer fix A1. Some notes and variations on how to

Hi,
First, a thank you to all the people before who have posted tips,
methods, and detailed pictures ot the web. Gives me much more
confidence to attempt tackling such a repair. Much appreated.

I'll post my experience here as I had some variations relative to
approaches described by others. Primarily, I ended up avoiding taking
the speedo needle off to make the repair. And rather than gluing or
peening the grey gear wheel hole to decrease the diameter of the hole
for a better mechanical interference fit, I enlarged the diameter of
the shaft where the grey wheel sits. Finally, I avoided the problem
that the digits were mis-aligned when everything was reassembled again.


I found the following sources of info useful.
1) http://www.4130-products.com/step/odometer/index.htm
2) two postings in this group (there are likely others). Search for the
following terms "My odometer stopped!!!!" and "VDO speedo gear
replacement available for A1?".

After a lot of trial and error, my eventual approach:
- Pull gauge cluster out as per www.4130-products.com instructions.
- Check if plastic gear or grey wheel are cracked (mine weren't). Using
small screwdriver, try turning grey wheel on end of odometer digits
wheels (grey wheel is on passenger side of odometer). Mine turned on
the shaft so I guessed that's where the slippage was occuring. Also,
using pliers I turned the shaft relative to the small plastic gear on
the driver side end of the same shaft. The plastic gear seemed tight on
the shaft. Everyone points to these 2 gears as problem areas.
- An observation that no one mentions the worm gear nor the plastic
gear at the other end of the worm gear, furthest from the digit wheels,
as problem parts. So focus on the grey gear wheel and the plastic gear
on the same shaft as the digits wheels.
- I contemplated pulling the needle off the speedo but others cautioned
that the spring can come out or break. I tried, but the needle is tight
on the shaft.
- Instead I pulled on the small plastic gear with my fingers and pulled
out the the attached shaft that runs through the digit wheels and the
grey wheel. The shaft came out easily.
- I marked off on the shaft where the grey wheel normally sits.
- Using a metal work centre punch, anvil, and very small hammer, I put
little divets into the shaft between my two marks. The sharp, raised
edges of the divets (craters) effectively increased the diameter of the
shaft. Others have suggested using ridged pliers to apply ridges to
the shaft, but the width of my pliers is wider than the width of where
the grey wheel sits on the shaft. You don't want to create extra
friction either on the housing or on the adjacent digits wheel.
- I then reinserted and pushed the shaft back through all the digit
wheels and finally through the grey wheel and out the otherside of the
casing. I used a small upholstry hammer (couple of ounce weight) to tap
the shaft back in. At first, it was too tight a fit going through the
first digits wheel. Back to the anvil, I gently hammered the divets
back down a bit (decrease diameter of shaft). Second try, the shaft
went in with some resistance and I drove it home (lightly) into the
grey wheel. If I measured correctly, that part of the shaft with
enlarged diameter should only be where the grey wheel sits.
- On re-testing using a small screwdriver, I could no longer turn the
grey wheel on the shaft. The divet edges securely grabbed the grey
wheel.
- Re-assembly was reverse. Tip. keep everything clean so there are no
smudge marks on your speedo face or debris beind the plastic window of
your gauge cluster.
- In the end, I didn't have to take the needle off and I found the
digits wheels lined up properly in each of their little "windows". No
half numbers showing.

Other tips
- If you really need to pry the speedo needle off, cover face of speedo
with paper or cardboard to avoid scratches (using the above method, you
don't need to take needle off). Also, before taking needle off, raise
the needle over the stop pin and let it come to rest. Compare the
needle position realtive to the tiny reference paint mark on speedo
face. That's where you position the needle when you put it back on.
- The gear mechanism is lightly oiled/greased. Avoid transferring
lubricant to speedo dial face, hard to get clean again (yeah, that
would be me).
- Lubricate the shaft lightly before reinserting.
- Lubricate gears with light grease before reassembly
- Check to see that the holes in the digits wheels and grey gear wheel
are lined up with shaft before tapping the shaft with the hammer.
- Replace all 3 dash board lights while you've got the cluster out.
This is your only expense on this job.
- Road test with bare minimum of dash re-installed. Don't want to take
the trim off a second time in case something didn't work.
- Bentley manual suggests disconnecting battery ground before taking
gauge cluster out. Seems like a good idea for avoiding a short.
- A trick I learned elsewhe put screws and other small parts in the
cups of an egg carton, in order of disassembly. On re-assembly, run
through the cups in reverse order. Less chance of forgetting something
plus it's a guide to the order in which the parts go back in.

Other things I found with the '85 Golf (A1).
- the trim around the gauge, heater controls, radio comes straight out,
no fasteners, just some pins that go into holes in the dash. Pull
straight out with your fingers and pry gently as needed. After 20
years, the plastic is brittle.
- As others have mentioned, the speedo cable disconnects from behind
the speedo rather than from the black box beside the coil and coolant
bottle in the engine compartment. Squeeze hard on the ridged plastic
keeper and cable will slip off back of speedo. A really tight fit for
hands though.
- Oh, the '85 Golf had 20 years use and 235,000 kilometres on it before
the gear failed. Not bad.

-Tony
Vancouver BC.

an 85 golf is an A2

-Ken
> wrote in message
oups.com...
> Hi,
> First, a thank you to all the people before who have posted tips,
> methods, and detailed pictures ot the web. Gives me much more
> confidence to attempt tackling such a repair. Much appreated.
>
> I'll post my experience here as I had some variations relative to
> approaches described by others. Primarily, I ended up avoiding taking
> the speedo needle off to make the repair. And rather than gluing or
> peening the grey gear wheel hole to decrease the diameter of the hole
> for a better mechanical interference fit, I enlarged the diameter of
> the shaft where the grey wheel sits. Finally, I avoided the problem
> that the digits were mis-aligned when everything was reassembled again.
>
>
> I found the following sources of info useful.
> 1) http://www.4130-products.com/step/odometer/index.htm
> 2) two postings in this group (there are likely others). Search for the
> following terms "My odometer stopped!!!!" and "VDO speedo gear
> replacement available for A1?".
>
> After a lot of trial and error, my eventual approach:
> - Pull gauge cluster out as per www.4130-products.com instructions.
> - Check if plastic gear or grey wheel are cracked (mine weren't). Using
> small screwdriver, try turning grey wheel on end of odometer digits
> wheels (grey wheel is on passenger side of odometer). Mine turned on
> the shaft so I guessed that's where the slippage was occuring. Also,
> using pliers I turned the shaft relative to the small plastic gear on
> the driver side end of the same shaft. The plastic gear seemed tight on
> the shaft. Everyone points to these 2 gears as problem areas.
> - An observation that no one mentions the worm gear nor the plastic
> gear at the other end of the worm gear, furthest from the digit wheels,
> as problem parts. So focus on the grey gear wheel and the plastic gear
> on the same shaft as the digits wheels.
> - I contemplated pulling the needle off the speedo but others cautioned
> that the spring can come out or break. I tried, but the needle is tight
> on the shaft.
> - Instead I pulled on the small plastic gear with my fingers and pulled
> out the the attached shaft that runs through the digit wheels and the
> grey wheel. The shaft came out easily.
> - I marked off on the shaft where the grey wheel normally sits.
> - Using a metal work centre punch, anvil, and very small hammer, I put
> little divets into the shaft between my two marks. The sharp, raised
> edges of the divets (craters) effectively increased the diameter of the
> shaft. Others have suggested using ridged pliers to apply ridges to
> the shaft, but the width of my pliers is wider than the width of where
> the grey wheel sits on the shaft. You don't want to create extra
> friction either on the housing or on the adjacent digits wheel.
> - I then reinserted and pushed the shaft back through all the digit
> wheels and finally through the grey wheel and out the otherside of the
> casing. I used a small upholstry hammer (couple of ounce weight) to tap
> the shaft back in. At first, it was too tight a fit going through the
> first digits wheel. Back to the anvil, I gently hammered the divets
> back down a bit (decrease diameter of shaft). Second try, the shaft
> went in with some resistance and I drove it home (lightly) into the
> grey wheel. If I measured correctly, that part of the shaft with
> enlarged diameter should only be where the grey wheel sits.
> - On re-testing using a small screwdriver, I could no longer turn the
> grey wheel on the shaft. The divet edges securely grabbed the grey
> wheel.
> - Re-assembly was reverse. Tip. keep everything clean so there are no
> smudge marks on your speedo face or debris beind the plastic window of
> your gauge cluster.
> - In the end, I didn't have to take the needle off and I found the
> digits wheels lined up properly in each of their little "windows". No
> half numbers showing.
>
> Other tips
> - If you really need to pry the speedo needle off, cover face of speedo
> with paper or cardboard to avoid scratches (using the above method, you
> don't need to take needle off). Also, before taking needle off, raise
> the needle over the stop pin and let it come to rest. Compare the
> needle position realtive to the tiny reference paint mark on speedo
> face. That's where you position the needle when you put it back on.
> - The gear mechanism is lightly oiled/greased. Avoid transferring
> lubricant to speedo dial face, hard to get clean again (yeah, that
> would be me).
> - Lubricate the shaft lightly before reinserting.
> - Lubricate gears with light grease before reassembly
> - Check to see that the holes in the digits wheels and grey gear wheel
> are lined up with shaft before tapping the shaft with the hammer.
> - Replace all 3 dash board lights while you've got the cluster out.
> This is your only expense on this job.
> - Road test with bare minimum of dash re-installed. Don't want to take
> the trim off a second time in case something didn't work.
> - Bentley manual suggests disconnecting battery ground before taking
> gauge cluster out. Seems like a good idea for avoiding a short.
> - A trick I learned elsewhe put screws and other small parts in the
> cups of an egg carton, in order of disassembly. On re-assembly, run
> through the cups in reverse order. Less chance of forgetting something
> plus it's a guide to the order in which the parts go back in.
>
> Other things I found with the '85 Golf (A1).
> - the trim around the gauge, heater controls, radio comes straight out,
> no fasteners, just some pins that go into holes in the dash. Pull
> straight out with your fingers and pry gently as needed. After 20
> years, the plastic is brittle.
> - As others have mentioned, the speedo cable disconnects from behind
> the speedo rather than from the black box beside the coil and coolant
> bottle in the engine compartment. Squeeze hard on the ridged plastic
> keeper and cable will slip off back of speedo. A really tight fit for
> hands though.
> - Oh, the '85 Golf had 20 years use and 235,000 kilometres on it before
> the gear failed. Not bad.
>
> -Tony
> Vancouver BC.
>

You're right. But I don't think there's any way now to change the "A1"
that appears in the title of this discussion topic to "A2".

I was under the impression A1's were the Golfs/Jettas introduced (in
Canada at least) in 1985. I knew there had been Golfs in Europe before
that. Then there appeared to be a major facelift to the Golf in the
1990 model year which I've been calling A2. So what was the A1? The
Rabbit? So turns out we have two A2s then, an '85 and '90.

>From a google search:
Golf: 1999-2005 (A4)
Golf: 1993-1999 (A3)
Golf: 1985-1992 (A2)

Congrats on fixing the problem, informing us how you fixed it........and of
course THAT you fixed it! lol
A lot of people forget to inform the group if the problem(s) ever got
solved. ;-)

note the Subject heading now.

thanks,
dave
(One out of many daves)

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> Hi,
> First, a thank you to all the people before who have posted tips,
> methods, and detailed pictures ot the web. Gives me much more
> confidence to attempt tackling such a repair. Much appreated.
>
> I'll post my experience here as I had some variations relative to
> approaches described by others. Primarily, I ended up avoiding taking
> the speedo needle off to make the repair.
SNIP

yes A1 is Rabbit

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> You're right. But I don't think there's any way now to change the "A1"
> that appears in the title of this discussion topic to "A2".
>
> I was under the impression A1's were the Golfs/Jettas introduced (in
> Canada at least) in 1985. I knew there had been Golfs in Europe before
> that. Then there appeared to be a major facelift to the Golf in the
> 1990 model year which I've been calling A2. So what was the A1? The
> Rabbit? So turns out we have two A2s then, an '85 and '90.
>
>>From a google search:
> Golf: 1999-2005 (A4)
> Golf: 1993-1999 (A3)
> Golf: 1985-1992 (A2)
>