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#21
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On Thu, 27 Jan 2005, Anthony wrote:
> > Both of them are silly kid stuff. Kroil and Mopar 3418039 are the only > > two penetrating fluids worth messing with. > Kroil is the stuff that works. Not sure what the Mopar is...but > probably Kroil packaged in a Mopar bottle. Nope. Totally different. Different consistency, color, smell, and probably taste. I don't prefer either to the other; they're best at different things. Nothing frees up manifold heat control valves and turbo wastegates and *keeps them free* as well as the Mopar fluid, for instance, not even Kroil. |
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#22
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On Thu, 27 Jan 2005, Gene Gardner wrote:
<snip broken spark plug adventure> > Needless to say, I used Anti-seize paste on the threads, although some > claim that changes the "heat-range" value. Wow. People will make all kinds of baseless, dumb claims to make themselves feel authoritative. |
#23
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On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 10:22:44 -0500, "Chas Hurst" >
wrote: > >"Lawrence Glickman" > wrote in message .. . >> On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 01:04:24 -0500, "Chas Hurst" > >> wrote: >> >> >There's no need to drill anything with the correct size easy-out. The >> >correct size being 9/16 IIRC. >> >> You are ass/u/ming that all the porcelain is removed? He only has a >> threaded metal cylinder to remove? >> >> >Since all that remains is the threads the entire porcelain can be removed >> >with a flex grabber. >> >> Oh, there IS porcelain remaining, but it can be removed with a flex >> grabber. What makes you so sure? A flex grabber is a puny little >> tool for picking up nuts and bolts at the bottom of water tanks, not >> wrestling spark plugs out of their mounts. > >Once the hex is torn off the plug the porcelain comes out quite easily. >And since I use a magnetic spark plug socket, the porcelain usually remains >in the head. >Why are you argueing about a job you have never done? You guys are freaking me out. I have to wait until Springtime before I can pull my plug wires and loosen & re-tighten my plugs. I have 3 on bank 1 that are a beatch, they are under the intake manifold, but if I use a _small_ wrench handle I should be able to get in there and do it by feel. This is only a 2003 vehicle, 14,000 miles, so they shouldn't snap off. But I do want to be certain that they are not becoming frozen in place, I will check to be sure there is antiseize on the threads, or I will put it on myself. I get the eebee jeebees thinking about a broken plug now. All the things that can go wrong, and you know my plugs don't need Service for 100,000 miles. But I am going to give it to them anyhow. Bank 2 is a no-brainter because it is looking you in the face when you raise the engine cowl. Bank 1 is the deep mystery because it is covered up with so much stuff. I must say, that was the first thing I noticed when I looked under the hood at the dealership. Bank 1 is going to be a bitch to get to if I ever have to. Lg |
#24
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"Lawrence Glickman" > wrote in message ... > On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 10:22:44 -0500, "Chas Hurst" > > wrote: > > > > >"Lawrence Glickman" > wrote in message > .. . > >> On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 01:04:24 -0500, "Chas Hurst" > > >> wrote: > >> > >> >There's no need to drill anything with the correct size easy-out. The > >> >correct size being 9/16 IIRC. > >> > >> You are ass/u/ming that all the porcelain is removed? He only has a > >> threaded metal cylinder to remove? > >> > >> >Since all that remains is the threads the entire porcelain can be removed > >> >with a flex grabber. > >> > >> Oh, there IS porcelain remaining, but it can be removed with a flex > >> grabber. What makes you so sure? A flex grabber is a puny little > >> tool for picking up nuts and bolts at the bottom of water tanks, not > >> wrestling spark plugs out of their mounts. > > > >Once the hex is torn off the plug the porcelain comes out quite easily. > >And since I use a magnetic spark plug socket, the porcelain usually remains > >in the head. > >Why are you argueing about a job you have never done? > > You guys are freaking me out. > I have to wait until Springtime before I can pull my plug wires and > loosen & re-tighten my plugs. I have 3 on bank 1 that are a beatch, > they are under the intake manifold, but if I use a _small_ wrench > handle I should be able to get in there and do it by feel. > > This is only a 2003 vehicle, 14,000 miles, so they shouldn't snap off. > But I do want to be certain that they are not becoming frozen in > place, I will check to be sure there is antiseize on the threads, or I > will put it on myself. > > I get the eebee jeebees thinking about a broken plug now. All the > things that can go wrong, and you know my plugs don't need Service for > 100,000 miles. But I am going to give it to them anyhow. > > Bank 2 is a no-brainter because it is looking you in the face when you > raise the engine cowl. Bank 1 is the deep mystery because it is > covered up with so much stuff. > > I must say, that was the first thing I noticed when I looked under the > hood at the dealership. Bank 1 is going to be a bitch to get to if I > ever have to. > > Lg > > |
#25
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I'm sure most of the guys in here would have an opinion about your
mentioning that the plugs don't need service for 100,000 miles; here's mine FWIW: Aside from the obvious risk of not being able to get the old ones out after 100K; also by this time the gap in them is wider than hell, shortening the life of the coil as it's working way overtime trying to fire across that way-too-wide gap, and of course by this stage of the game the vehicle is out of warranty so you're buying coils and etc as well as hassling with the busted off plug(s)... In other words, anyone who suggests that you don't need to change plugs until 100K...FORGET THAT! :-) Just my 2=E7 |
#26
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BTDT,
Wifes 94 had a plug blow apart in it, the only thing left was the threaded portion of the plug. It was stuck real good. Came out real easy. First step - Stick a small rag or towel into the hole and clean up all the oil/penetrant and any other dirt. Second - Used a very small torch tip to heat the insert almost red hot. (I picked up a small oxy/MAPP kit since it was smaller than my big torch). Third - Use an easy out and screw it in as far as possible. The insert may come out while it is hot BUT I waited till it cooled. Clean up the tools and put a new set of Delco plugs in. Drive away happy. -- Steve Williams "jbarts" > wrote in message ... > > > >I think you mean the plug broke in half where the threads are left in > >the block along with the bottom part? > > > YES! That's it. > > >This is time for REAL penetrating oil, NOT WD40, which is not a REAL > >penetrating oil. > > I'm going to get some this morning. > > >Use _real_ penetrating oil. Everybody owns at least some. Then let > >it soak, go out and give it a tap every now and then with a hammer and > >a screwdriver, and add MORE "Real" penetrating oil. Repeat as often > >as necessary until you've loosened the corrosion enough to get it out > >of the spark plug hole. > > > >Lg > > Thank you. > |
#27
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"Steve W." wrote:
> > BTDT, > Wifes 94 had a plug blow apart in it, the only thing left was the > threaded portion of the plug. It was stuck real good. > Came out real easy. > > First step - Stick a small rag or towel into the hole and clean up all > the oil/penetrant and any other dirt. > Second - Used a very small torch tip to heat the insert almost red hot. > (I picked up a small oxy/MAPP kit since it was smaller than my big > torch). > Third - Use an easy out and screw it in as far as possible. The insert > may come out while it is hot BUT I waited till it cooled. > > Clean up the tools and put a new set of Delco plugs in. Drive away > happy. > > -- > Steve Williams > Delco plugs in a Mopar?!!! Never!!! JAM |
#28
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#29
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Daniel J. Stern wrote:
> On Wed, 26 Jan 2005, William. Boyd wrote: > > > I use Liquid wrench, WD is good but the LW is a tad better. > > Both of them are silly kid stuff. Kroil and Mopar 3418039 > are the only two penetrating fluids worth messing with. > How well does PB Blaster compare? |
#30
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On Fri, 28 Jan 2005, larry moe 'n curly wrote:
> > > I use Liquid wrench, WD is good but the LW is a tad better. > > > > Both of them are silly kid stuff. Kroil and Mopar 3418039 are the only > > two penetrating fluids worth messing with. > How well does PB Blaster compare? Better than Liquid Wrench, not nearly as good as Kroil and 3418039. |
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