1999 SL2 rear brakes

Hello,
I have an '99 SL2 and need to replace the rear brakes (I've already
replaced the front disc brakes). I have seen a rear drum brake model
in a classroom setting and have a spring tool, but I have not worked on
an actual car (i.e., there was no parking brake on the classroom setup,
but I understand to work on one side and to use the other as reference
for reassembling the springs, etc.).

Are there any tricks, tips or quirks anyone can pass along before I
start this task?

Thank you,
Dave

Take apart one side at a time so that you have a correct, working model to
use when re-assembling the side you took apart. There is nothing special
here and they are fairly easy to do. I'd recommend you replace the hardware
(springs, etc.). The rear brake hardware kits are fairly cheap. Also get
the drums resurfaced too or replace them completely if they are damaged.

Good luck.

Bob

> wrote in message
ups.com...
> Hello,
> I have an '99 SL2 and need to replace the rear brakes (I've already
> replaced the front disc brakes). I have seen a rear drum brake model
> in a classroom setting and have a spring tool, but I have not worked on
> an actual car (i.e., there was no parking brake on the classroom setup,
> but I understand to work on one side and to use the other as reference
> for reassembling the springs, etc.).
>
> Are there any tricks, tips or quirks anyone can pass along before I
> start this task?
>
> Thank you,
> Dave
>

I agree with Bob. Check the cost difference on turning drums vs. new drums.
It likely won't cost that much more to just replace them. Additionally,
look the wheel cylinders over for any sign of leakage and check the
condition of the lines and hose. Make sure that when you bleed the brakes
that before you stop you see clean, fresh fluid coming out of the bleeder.

Ken


"Bob Shuman" > wrote in message
. net...
> Take apart one side at a time so that you have a correct, working model to
> use when re-assembling the side you took apart. There is nothing special
> here and they are fairly easy to do. I'd recommend you replace the
> hardware (springs, etc.). The rear brake hardware kits are fairly cheap.
> Also get the drums resurfaced too or replace them completely if they are
> damaged.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Bob
>
> > wrote in message
> ups.com...
>> Hello,
>> I have an '99 SL2 and need to replace the rear brakes (I've already
>> replaced the front disc brakes). I have seen a rear drum brake model
>> in a classroom setting and have a spring tool, but I have not worked on
>> an actual car (i.e., there was no parking brake on the classroom setup,
>> but I understand to work on one side and to use the other as reference
>> for reassembling the springs, etc.).
>>
>> Are there any tricks, tips or quirks anyone can pass along before I
>> start this task?
>>
>> Thank you,
>> Dave
>>
>
>

On 12 Jan 2007 14:42:09 -0800, "
> wrote:

>Hello,
>I have an '99 SL2 and need to replace the rear brakes (I've already
>replaced the front disc brakes). I have seen a rear drum brake model
>in a classroom setting and have a spring tool, but I have not worked on
>an actual car (i.e., there was no parking brake on the classroom setup,
>but I understand to work on one side and to use the other as reference
>for reassembling the springs, etc.).
>
>Are there any tricks, tips or quirks anyone can pass along before I
>start this task?
>
>Thank you,
>Dave

imho:

The only tip I can remember when working with rear brakes is this.
Safely jack the car, remove both wheels, remove both drums, and then
only work on one set of brakes at a time. Use the 'other' brake as a
model how everything should look when done.

That worked for me in the past.

Tom @ www.Texas-VOIP.com

Pick up a pair of needle-nose locking pliers if you don't already own
some too. They work much easier than the hook type brake tool for the
return springs, just lock them on the springs right near the hook ends.

In article . com>, wrote:
>Pick up a pair of needle-nose locking pliers if you don't already own
>some too. They work much easier than the hook type brake tool for the
>return springs, just lock them on the springs right near the hook ends.

No, they don't. Used properly, the purpose-built brake spring tool is *far*
easier than a locking pliers. I haven't used a locking pliers on brake springs
once in thirty years, since I bought the proper tool.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.