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#1
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97 Accord Tuneup?
Would like to put new pvc valve, distributor cap, plug wires, plugs, oxygen
sensors on 97 Accord 2.2 SOHC 16 valve. Of all I have been reading, it looks as though the OEM parts are the way to go. Any thoughts? Anything special to look for in changing above? Did I miss anything? Weekend mechanic only |
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#2
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97 Accord Tuneup?
Do you have a reason for doing the oxygen sensors? They are
not routine maintenance, and they are not cheap for this car. I'd change the air filter and fuel filter. I don't care if those are OEM or not on my car. Consider changing the distributor rotor, too. Use an OEM one. (Plugs should be per the owner's manual's specs. Ignition wires and cap should be OEM.) Get a timing light and check the ignition timing. How old is the coolant? Put a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel injector yada cleaner in the fuel tank when it's near empty. Fill tank. Try to schedule an oil change a couple weeks later. Wal-Mart and Autozone carry this product for around $7 a bottle. Got a manual? Your library may have one for your Accord. Or buy a Chilton's for it on Ebay (though that may take a month) or at some place like Autozone. Or piece together the steps using the free online manuals and parts drawing sites for Accords close to the 1997 at http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id9.html . Anything in particular lead to your decision to do a full tune-up? How many miles on your car? "Enuf4me" > wrote > Would like to put new pvc valve, distributor cap, plug > wires, plugs, oxygen > sensors on 97 Accord 2.2 SOHC 16 valve. Of all I have been > reading, it looks > as though the OEM parts are the way to go. Any thoughts? > Anything special to > look for in changing above? Did I miss anything? Weekend > mechanic only |
#3
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97 Accord Tuneup?
Miles: 111,000
Coolant: 1 year old Reason: milage going down a few miles per gallon. around 28-30 highway No reason for oxy sensor, just looking for a way to get a PM done and increase milage a little. "Elle" > wrote in message nk.net... > Do you have a reason for doing the oxygen sensors? They are > not routine maintenance, and they are not cheap for this > car. > > I'd change the air filter and fuel filter. I don't care if > those are OEM or not on my car. > > Consider changing the distributor rotor, too. Use an OEM > one. (Plugs should be per the owner's manual's specs. > Ignition wires and cap should be OEM.) > > Get a timing light and check the ignition timing. > > How old is the coolant? > > Put a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel injector yada cleaner > in the fuel tank when it's near empty. Fill tank. Try to > schedule an oil change a couple weeks later. Wal-Mart and > Autozone carry this product for around $7 a bottle. > > Got a manual? Your library may have one for your Accord. Or > buy a Chilton's for it on Ebay (though that may take a > month) or at some place like Autozone. Or piece together the > steps using the free online manuals and parts drawing sites > for Accords close to the 1997 at > http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id9.html . > > Anything in particular lead to your decision to do a full > tune-up? > > How many miles on your car? > > "Enuf4me" > wrote > > Would like to put new pvc valve, distributor cap, plug > > wires, plugs, oxygen > > sensors on 97 Accord 2.2 SOHC 16 valve. Of all I have been > > reading, it looks > > as though the OEM parts are the way to go. Any thoughts? > > Anything special to > > look for in changing above? Did I miss anything? Weekend > > mechanic only > > |
#4
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97 Accord Tuneup?
I'd skip the oxygen sensors then, and see if you get some
improvement. Check your tires' air pressure, too. Maybe just thoroughly purge the cooling system of air and make sure it's at the correct level. "Enuf4me" > wrote > Miles: 111,000 > Coolant: 1 year old > Reason: milage going down a few miles per gallon. around > 28-30 highway > No reason for oxy sensor, just looking for a way to get a > PM done and > increase milage a little. |
#5
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97 Accord Tuneup?
Re. O2 sensors: if you decide to replace an O2 sensor make sure you
replace all the O2 sensors on your car at the same time. I've had good results with Denso O2 sensors in both Honda (190K miles) and Toyota (170K miles) products. These are available with OEM connectors at about half the price of what looks to be the exact same parts in a Honda or Toyota parts box. New O2 sensors improved the mpg in both the cars I've put them in. As others have suggested, to increase mpg start with the basics; air filter, distributor cap, rotor, new spark plugs (standard NGKs, nothing fancy) and check for tire pressure. At 8-9 years your ignition wires are getting a little old and replacement isn't a bad idea if you intend to keep the car. Your O2 sensors are probably OK for another 50K miles. Doesn't this engine require periodic valve adjustments? The timing should have been set when the timing belt was replaced at 90K miles but checking is a good idea. |
#6
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97 Accord Tuneup?
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#7
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97 Accord Tuneup?
Elle wrote:
>Do you have a reason for doing the oxygen sensors? They are >not routine maintenance, and they are not cheap for this >car. > >I'd change the air filter and fuel filter. I don't care if >those are OEM or not on my car. > >Consider changing the distributor rotor, too. Use an OEM >one. (Plugs should be per the owner's manual's specs. >Ignition wires and cap should be OEM.) > >Get a timing light and check the ignition timing. > >How old is the coolant? > >Put a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel injector yada cleaner >in the fuel tank when it's near empty. Fill tank. Try to >schedule an oil change a couple weeks later. Wal-Mart and >Autozone carry this product for around $7 a bottle. > >Got a manual? Your library may have one for your Accord. Or >buy a Chilton's for it on Ebay (though that may take a >month) or at some place like Autozone. Or piece together the >steps using the free online manuals and parts drawing sites >for Accords close to the 1997 at >http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id9.html . > >Anything in particular lead to your decision to do a full >tune-up? > >How many miles on your car? > >> Would like to put new pvc valve, distributor cap, plug >> wires, plugs, oxygen >[quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >> look for in changing above? Did I miss anything? Weekend >> mechanic only I've been running Hondas for over twenty years and I've had absolutely zero problems with aftermarket parts. You DON'T need to use Honda's cap, rotor and ignition wires. And don't fool around with anything but Honda's ATF....trust me. I agree with the NGK plugs and Chevron fuel system cleaner though. -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200603/1 |
#8
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97 Accord Tuneup?
"Headknocker via CarKB.com" <u18602@uwe> wrote
> trust me. Trust me and many others here. We have much more anecdotal data than many mechanics or any one amateur. Just the other day we had another report of poor aftermarket ignition part performance: An aftermarket distributor rotor was made of such cheap material that it broke after less than a year. The owner compared the old with the new OEM. Big difference. Use only OEM ignition parts (cap, rotor, wires, ignition coil, igniter, distributor housing). |
#9
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97 Accord Tuneup?
E Meyer wrote:
> On 3/16/06 6:16 AM, in article > , > " > wrote: > > > Re. O2 sensors: if you decide to replace an O2 sensor make sure you > > replace all the O2 sensors on your car at the same time. > > Why? > Unless you know the other O2s are operating as well as the new sensor, how can you predict how the on board computer will interpret the different inputs from the new vs old O2 sensors? (Use of a scan tool can eliminate this uncertainly, of course.) Is there a doubt about sensor performance degradation over time? excerpted from http://www.autotap.com/articles/Unde...n_Sensors.html You can read the O2 sensor's output with a scan tool or digital voltmeter, but the transitions are hard to see because the numbers jump around so much. Here's where a PC based scantool such as AutoTap really shines. You can use the graphing features to watch the transitions of the O2 sensors voltage. The software will display the sensor's voltage output as a wavy line that shows both it's amplitude (minimum and maximum voltage) as well as its frequency (transition rate from rich to lean). A good O2 sensor should produce an oscillating waveform at idle that makes voltage transitions from near minimum (0.1 v) to near maximum (0.9v). Making the fuel mixture artificially rich by feeding propane into the intake manifold should cause the sensor to respond almost immediately (within 100 milliseconds) and go to maximum (0.9v) output. Creating a lean mixture by opening a vacuum line should cause the sensor's output to drop to its minimum (0.1v) value. If the sensor doesn't flip-flop back and forth quickly enough, it may indicate a need for replacement. If the O2 sensor circuit opens, shorts or goes out of range, it may set a fault code and illuminate the Check Engine or Malfunction Indicator Lamp. If additional diagnosis reveals the sensor is defective, replacement is required. But many O2 sensors that are badly degraded continue to work well enough not to set a fault code-but not well enough to prevent an increase in emissions and fuel consumption. The absence of a fault code or warning lamp, therefore, does not mean the O2 sensor is functioning properly. end excerpt |
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