Can't get the drum off Jeep Wrangler 97

97 Wrangler TJ

I'm pretty sure the wheel cylinder needs to be replaces from the
leaking fluid. But I can't get the stupid drum off to get inside. The
wheel itself took a few kicks to actually come off. I've soaked the
area around the threads with a penetrating fluid and WD-40, hit it with
a hammer for a bit and doesn't seem to budge. Am I missing something
easy?

:/

sisco did pass the time by typing:
> 97 Wrangler TJ
>
> I'm pretty sure the wheel cylinder needs to be replaces from the
> leaking fluid. But I can't get the stupid drum off to get inside. The
> wheel itself took a few kicks to actually come off. I've soaked the
> area around the threads with a penetrating fluid and WD-40, hit it with
> a hammer for a bit and doesn't seem to budge. Am I missing something
> easy?

Yep.

Get under and release the emergency brake cable. Your looking for the
line that runs back to a Y, at the Y you should be able to pull the cable
off. That will let the pads move back and not catch on the lip inside the
drum.

--
DougW

Well I don't know if that helped or not for later, but it's still on.

Here's what I'm staring at. The is the casing the same as the drum?

http://flickr.com/photos/francisco/159444164/

I believe I had this problem once. I put a big three armed
puller on the rim and applied some force. Then after a period of tapping
with a rubber hammer it broke free. In this case there was no leaking
cylinder. Just a maintenance check.

Fred
85 GW

"DougW" > wrote in message
news:RAjgg.52412$9c6.4530@dukeread11...
> sisco did pass the time by typing:
>> 97 Wrangler TJ
>>
>> I'm pretty sure the wheel cylinder needs to be replaces from the
>> leaking fluid. But I can't get the stupid drum off to get inside. The
>> wheel itself took a few kicks to actually come off. I've soaked the
>> area around the threads with a penetrating fluid and WD-40, hit it with
>> a hammer for a bit and doesn't seem to budge. Am I missing something
>> easy?
>
> Yep.
>
> Get under and release the emergency brake cable. Your looking for the
> line that runs back to a Y, at the Y you should be able to pull the cable
> off. That will let the pads move back and not catch on the lip inside the
> drum.
>
> --
> DougW
>

sisco did pass the time by typing:
> Well I don't know if that helped or not for later, but it's still on.
>
> Here's what I'm staring at. The is the casing the same as the drum?

Yes, the common term is drum.

> http://flickr.com/photos/francisco/159444164/

Once you have disconnected the cable that should relax the
brake shoes enough to get the drum off. The cable should
have slack in it.

Usually you then just have to wiggle it a bit, and maby tap
from side to side.

The internal star adjuster might have to be backed off.
That can be a pain if it has never been done before.
You can use a couple of screwdrivers or a tool like this
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kd287.html

There should be a little rubber plug at the bottom on the
back of that assembly. Behind that plug is the star gear that
adjusts the brake pads as you drive. It has to be turned to
loosen (forgot the direction) the pads.

This is kinda old but should give you an idea.
http://www.venturetrailers.com/pdfs/...stallation.pdf

Another site to read through.
http://www.dippy.org/svcman/sm05b.html

--
DougW

If the drum wiggles when you pull from one side and then the other, and
the resitance feels "soft', you are hung on either the emergancy brake
cable or the shoes. Not sure if the TJ has the brake adjustment hole but
if it does, you stick a screw driver in and tweak the star wheel inside.

If the drum will spin but not wiggle in the least when you pull on
alternate sides, your drum is frozen on the axle. In your picture, the
center 3" projection is the axle, the rest is the drum. Spray the joint
with PB Blaster or Kroil (Don't even bother with WD-40!) several times
over a few days. Then take a BIG hammer (at least 2-1/2 pounder) and
give the edge a good whack, rotate about 90 degrees, repeat a dozen
times until it loosens up.

A friend had a '96 BMW that lived in the salt belt with the same
trouble. We wound up soaking the hub for a couple of days, using a
monstrous puller on it overnight, and giving it a few licks with a 6
pound hammer. When it finally let go it went half way across the garage.

You may want to go to one of the local brake and muffler shops that
advertises "free brake inspection" They will take it off and give you a
quote. You can always say no and go home to do it yourself.

sisco wrote:
> 97 Wrangler TJ
>
> I'm pretty sure the wheel cylinder needs to be replaces from the
> leaking fluid. But I can't get the stupid drum off to get inside. The
> wheel itself took a few kicks to actually come off. I've soaked the
> area around the threads with a penetrating fluid and WD-40, hit it with
> a hammer for a bit and doesn't seem to budge. Am I missing something
> easy?
>
> :/
>

"sisco" > wrote in
ps.com:

> Well I don't know if that helped or not for later, but it's still on.
>
> Here's what I'm staring at. The is the casing the same as the drum?
>
> http://flickr.com/photos/francisco/159444164/

There's two ways you might say the drum won't come off.

One is if you try to pull it off and it moves slightly and then hangs
on something, if that's the case you'll have to release the emergency
brake cable and back of the brake adjusters until it does come off.

The other way is if the drum will not budge, it's frozen on. If that's
the case tapping, heat or a puller might be needed.

DougW wrote:

> The internal star adjuster might have to be backed off.


Ahh, I just saw that bit in the repair book going to try that now.

Thanks everyone

sisco did pass the time by typing:
> DougW wrote:
>
>> The internal star adjuster might have to be backed off.
>
>
> Ahh, I just saw that bit in the repair book going to try that now.
>
> Thanks everyone

Just remember that star is usually bloody sharp.

If it looks dirty/rusty your better off putting a new one
in there. No grease as it just attracts dirt.

--
DougW

DougW wrote:

> Just remember that star is usually bloody sharp.
>
> If it looks dirty/rusty your better off putting a new one
> in there. No grease as it just attracts dirt.


Well I can't seem to locate the star, pulled off all three of the
rubber covers and shined a light inside, either I'm missing it or
something.

I'm actually starting to think it's just very rusted/fused to the hub.
I think I'm going to just take it in to the shop. Blah.