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#11
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Murphy wrote: > I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into > another method. Too bad there's not a way to, say, staple and glue the two split parts back together, assuming the rest of the boot is good... -- OM |
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#12
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This makes sense. I guess I confused "remove" with "disassemble". It would
be nice if you didn't have to disassemble the front suspension. On my wife's mazda, on the passenger side, after taking the suspension apart and sliding the spline out, removing the axle is just a tap but on the diriver's side I guess there is an advantage of not removing the shaft as the transmission fluid falls out. Thanks for all of the dialog. Bob "Murphy" > wrote in message et... > You can download step-by-step instructions on how to install he > > http://tinyurl.com/awbpe > > You still have to remove the axle nut and separate the wheel hub from > the axle, but the axle can stay attached to the transmission. > > In article >, says... > > Murphy wrote > > > another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools: > > > http://tinyurl.com/bodpj > > > > what does this "tube looking thing with a black pointy cone" (in the picture) do? > > > > > using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this > > > tool): > > > > > > http://tinyurl.com/avt8e > > > > > > Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will > > > last longer than a split boot. > > > > isn't this another split boot? I mean, how can it be installed "without disassembly"? > > the page has a model/name "CV Flex Boot Standard - Astoria 2000" > > > > FB3000 > > Standard Flex Boot > > Features & Benefits: > > # Universal Flex Boot > > # Fits 90% Of Domestic/Import Cars > > # Replace without dissasembly > > # Includes heavy duty band clamp > > |
#13
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#14
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"Ayre Schnell" > wrote in message ...
> what does this "tube looking thing with a black pointy cone" (in the picture) do? "With lubricant. Place the (black pointy cone) on the ground and center the boot over the cone. Holding the boot to the installer use a firm and fluent motion to press the boot to the base of the cone. Place the installer & cone over the joint. Drive the boot over the joint by striking the base of the installer grease the joint. And stretch don't over the joint until a tight fit is formed. " Read more http://www.jonnesway.com.tw/ar060023.htm |
#15
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#16
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"Alex Rodriguez" > wrote in message ... > In article >, > says... > > >There is a new technique which allows an integral boot to be installed > >without dissembling everything > >but it requires a special stretching tool to do it. > > It sounds like a good idea, but it really isn't. If you can't clean the joint > before you put the new boot on, it is just a matter of time before it will > fail. You need to clean the joint before putting the new boot on. > ------------- > Alex Of course, if the boot is compromised and there is water, salt, dirt inside, the joint should be cleaned and repacked. You might be able to get it clean enough using a solvent wash without opening the joint, but getting new grease into the inner bearings might be a problem. Some people actually identify and replace deteriorating boots before they go completely to hell. The first boot I replaced, I inadvertantly allowed the joint to separate(even after being warned and taking considerable care) , and needle bearings and balls went everywhere. I finally managed to find them all, clean everything meticulously, and packed everything back into place. This was a real learning experience which I do not care to repeat. |
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