need advice on Tranny problem, 92 stick

Hi,
I bought a '92 a couple years ago, and it has 85,000 miles on it now.
For the past few months it's been getting harder, and harder to shift, and
today,
there for a while, I couldn't get into any gear at all, but I finally manged
to
get it into 5th and drove home feathering the clutch at every stop.

The clutch is working but when driving if i take it out of gear, i
can't get it back into gear.

When I got home and got it in the garage, what a releaf, and turned
off the motor, i could get it into all of the gears. You know, the gear
box felt normal.

Can anybody tell me what may be the cause of this?

TIA

Mike

Sounds like the classic case of a failing slave cylinder, or possibly a
master and slave.
The inside of the rubber bellows on the rod end of the slave cylinder is
likely full of fluid.
~ $50 replaces the slave (you do it), oe you may be able to find and use a
rebuild kit. ~$20 (You supply the hone and elbow grease.)
A few hints--
Loosen the fluid line fittings at the slave cylinder before you remove the
mounting bolts.
Have something to plug the open fluid line while the slave cylinder is not
connected to it.
Flush the system before you remove the slave cylinder.
Prefill the new slave cylinder, and let what will drain out do so. This
helps to prelubricate the new seals and cylinder wall before
use.
Use thick high temp grease to lubricate the rod end(s). This helps to
prevent squeaks when the clutch is operated.
You must bleed the system after the slave cylinder is mounted. A pint or two
of new brake fluid should be enough for the whole job.
Wash off any brake fluid when done. (It smells)

"~Mike Hollywood" > wrote in message
...
> Hi,
> I bought a '92 a couple years ago, and it has 85,000 miles on it now.
> For the past few months it's been getting harder, and harder to shift, and
> today,
> there for a while, I couldn't get into any gear at all, but I finally
manged
> to
> get it into 5th and drove home feathering the clutch at every stop.
>
> The clutch is working but when driving if i take it out of gear, i
> can't get it back into gear.
>
> When I got home and got it in the garage, what a releaf, and turned
> off the motor, i could get it into all of the gears. You know, the gear
> box felt normal.
>
> Can anybody tell me what may be the cause of this?
>
> TIA
>
> Mike
>
>

On May 6, 8:44 pm, "Chuck" > wrote:
> Sounds like the classic case of a failing slave cylinder, or possibly a
> master and slave.
> The inside of the rubber bellows on the rod end of the slave cylinder is
> likely full of fluid.
> ~ $50 replaces the slave (you do it), oe you may be able to find and use a
> rebuild kit. ~$20 (You supply the hone and elbow grease.)
> A few hints--
> Loosen the fluid line fittings at the slave cylinder before you remove the
> mounting bolts.
> Have something to plug the open fluid line while the slave cylinder is not
> connected to it.
> Flush the system before you remove the slave cylinder.
> Prefill the new slave cylinder, and let what will drain out do so. This
> helps to prelubricate the new seals and cylinder wall before
> use.
> Use thick high temp grease to lubricate the rod end(s). This helps to
> prevent squeaks when the clutch is operated.
> You must bleed the system after the slave cylinder is mounted. A pint or two
> of new brake fluid should be enough for the whole job.
> Wash off any brake fluid when done. (It smells)
>
> "~Mike Hollywood" > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
> > Hi,
> > I bought a '92 a couple years ago, and it has 85,000 miles on it now.
> > For the past few months it's been getting harder, and harder to shift, and
> > today,
> > there for a while, I couldn't get into any gear at all, but I finally
> manged
> > to
> > get it into 5th and drove home feathering the clutch at every stop.
>
> > The clutch is working but when driving if i take it out of gear, i
> > can't get it back into gear.
>
> > When I got home and got it in the garage, what a releaf, and turned
> > off the motor, i could get it into all of the gears. You know, the gear
> > box felt normal.
>
> > Can anybody tell me what may be the cause of this?
>
> > TIA
>
> > Mike

No question in my mind you've got one or two bad cylinders. It's the
kind of thing where it's made noticeable by air in the line...but how
did that air get in there? Bad cylinder! The slave is more likely to
go, and it's really not all that hard to rebuild, if you're fairly
handy. Just wear some kind of waterproof mechanics gloves...you'll
have your hands in SO much brake fluid.

If the slave turned out to not be the (only) problem, and you end up
rebuilding the master cylinder, get a set of circlip pliers before you
start. It's a $10 tool that will save you three hours of cursing (and
probably $10 of beer, the way most of you guys work :-P ). Other than
that...the only challenges i had were a)pulling the bolts to get the
damn thing off the car and b)putting everything in the slave cylinder
in the wrong order. I ****ed brake fluid for ten minutes before i
realized what I might have done. Get the pages from the manual, do it
right, and on a warm night. Best of luck.

-r0ll

Hey Guys, Thanks for the replies. YOu were right on. Guess what? I left
it in reverse overnight and this afternoon started it up, and it proceeded
to go backwards all by itself. I think the master does that. Since it's a
'92 I'm thinkin' the bores are pitted, so I'm going to replace both units
instead of rebuilding them. price wise, here's what I found :

PBR - Clutch Master Cylinder -
$58.99 Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch Parts.

Tokico - Clutch Master Cylinder -
$68.99 Performance Suspension Parts & Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch
Cylinders.

Aftermarket - Clutch Master Cylinder -
$34.99 High Quality Stock Replacement Parts.

Raybestos - Clutch Master Cylinder -

$66.99 Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch Parts.


PBR - Clutch Slave Cylinder -
$37.99 Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch Parts.


Tokico - Clutch Slave Cylinder -
$57.99 Performance Suspension Parts & Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch
Cylinders.

Raybestos - Clutch Slave Cylinder -
$40.99 Quality Stock Replacement Parts.

Vero Fl. Mazda Dealer: master $101
Slave $ 81

Is it a good idea to buy from the dealer for $192 what I can get on line for
$76? I mean
are the dealer parts any better?

Thanks,

Mike

The dealer's parts are generally no better than name brand replacement
parts, and, in fact, may be the same as the replacement part.

"~Mike Hollywood" > wrote in message
.. .
> Hey Guys, Thanks for the replies. YOu were right on. Guess what? I left
> it in reverse overnight and this afternoon started it up, and it proceeded
> to go backwards all by itself. I think the master does that. Since it's a
> '92 I'm thinkin' the bores are pitted, so I'm going to replace both units
> instead of rebuilding them. price wise, here's what I found :
>
> PBR - Clutch Master Cylinder -
> $58.99 Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch Parts.
>
> Tokico - Clutch Master Cylinder -
> $68.99 Performance Suspension Parts & Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch
> Cylinders.
>
> Aftermarket - Clutch Master Cylinder -
> $34.99 High Quality Stock Replacement Parts.
>
> Raybestos - Clutch Master Cylinder -
>
> $66.99 Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch Parts.
>
>
> PBR - Clutch Slave Cylinder -
> $37.99 Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch Parts.
>
>
> Tokico - Clutch Slave Cylinder -
> $57.99 Performance Suspension Parts & Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch
> Cylinders.
>
> Raybestos - Clutch Slave Cylinder -
> $40.99 Quality Stock Replacement Parts.
>
> Vero Fl. Mazda Dealer: master $101
> Slave $ 81
>
> Is it a good idea to buy from the dealer for $192 what I can get on line
for
> $76? I mean
> are the dealer parts any better?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
>

On May 7, 10:39 pm, "Chuck" > wrote:
> The dealer's parts are generally no better than name brand replacement
> parts, and, in fact, may be the same as the replacement part.
>
> "~Mike Hollywood" > wrote in message
>
> .. .
>
> > Hey Guys, Thanks for the replies. YOu were right on. Guess what? I left
> > it in reverse overnight and this afternoon started it up, and it proceeded
> > to go backwards all by itself. I think the master does that. Since it's a
> > '92 I'm thinkin' the bores are pitted, so I'm going to replace both units
> > instead of rebuilding them. price wise, here's what I found :
>
> > PBR - Clutch Master Cylinder -
> > $58.99 Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch Parts.
>
> > Tokico - Clutch Master Cylinder -
> > $68.99 Performance Suspension Parts & Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch
> > Cylinders.
>
> > Aftermarket - Clutch Master Cylinder -
> > $34.99 High Quality Stock Replacement Parts.
>
> > Raybestos - Clutch Master Cylinder -
>
> > $66.99 Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch Parts.
>
> > PBR - Clutch Slave Cylinder -
> > $37.99 Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch Parts.
>
> > Tokico - Clutch Slave Cylinder -
> > $57.99 Performance Suspension Parts & Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch
> > Cylinders.
>
> > Raybestos - Clutch Slave Cylinder -
> > $40.99 Quality Stock Replacement Parts.
>
> > Vero Fl. Mazda Dealer: master $101
> > Slave $ 81
>
> > Is it a good idea to buy from the dealer for $192 what I can get on line
> for
> > $76? I mean
> > are the dealer parts any better?
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > Mike

They usually *are* the dealer part. Few others will make the
casting. What might change is the internal parts--but not in a way
that is significant to keep them from working. Get the cheapest, and
if it ever breaks again, just rebuild. (and hold on to that old
casting!)

Best of luck, let us know what happens!

-r0ll