Rust converter

Well, I'm in the process of removing all the old body filler on my '72 SB
and cutting all the rust holes out down to good metal so I can weld new
pieces over the holes in the body and I'm confronted with the follow
questions:

1) Should I treat all the rust underneath the body and frame before welding
all the patches? (Seems to me I can get to more of the underside and hidden
areas by treating them before patching all the holes)

If so:

A) What is the best treatment for the rust? I've been told POR 15, Rustoleum
Rust Reformer, Mar-Hyde and RustMort are all good products.
B) I'm going to have the body media blasted after the patching, should I
spray a primer shot over the patches as soon as I have them finished to stop
any rusting or does it not matter?

Thanks in advance.
H-S-F

read here about some of the "rust" chemicals
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...ORY&itemID=372

I have my own opinions from limited experience that I will keep to myself
until this thread grows more.

later,
dave
(One out of many daves)


"help-slip-franklin" > wrote in message
news:Zw%Ig.2940$XD1.62@trnddc01...
> Well, I'm in the process of removing all the old body filler on my '72 SB
> and cutting all the rust holes out down to good metal so I can weld new
> pieces over the holes in the body and I'm confronted with the follow
> questions:
>
> 1) Should I treat all the rust underneath the body and frame before
> welding
> all the patches? (Seems to me I can get to more of the underside and
> hidden
> areas by treating them before patching all the holes)
>
> If so:
>
> A) What is the best treatment for the rust? I've been told POR 15,
> Rustoleum
> Rust Reformer, Mar-Hyde and RustMort are all good products.
> B) I'm going to have the body media blasted after the patching, should I
> spray a primer shot over the patches as soon as I have them finished to
> stop
> any rusting or does it not matter?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> H-S-F
>
>

> > 1) Should I treat all the rust underneath the body and frame before
> > welding
> > all the patches? (Seems to me I can get to more of the underside and
> > hidden
> > areas by treating them before patching all the holes)
> >
> > If so:
> >
> > A) What is the best treatment for the rust? I've been told POR 15,
> > Rustoleum
> > Rust Reformer, Mar-Hyde and RustMort are all good products.
> > B) I'm going to have the body media blasted after the patching, should I
> > spray a primer shot over the patches as soon as I have them finished to
> > stop
> > any rusting or does it not matter?

I know Mar-Hyde works very well but is flammable.

Mario
Vintage werks resto

I thought that you would normaly do media blasting prior to any body
work to reveal any rust, bondo and etc.

It doesn't really make sence to me to do both patching and PORing the
car. It's one or another. I have used POR on the floor pans mainly
because I don't have a facility to replace them and patching some of
the areas is imposisible due to the location of the rust and the
damage. Seems to be ok.

Anton




wrote:
> > > 1) Should I treat all the rust underneath the body and frame before
> > > welding
> > > all the patches? (Seems to me I can get to more of the underside and
> > > hidden
> > > areas by treating them before patching all the holes)
> > >
> > > If so:
> > >
> > > A) What is the best treatment for the rust? I've been told POR 15,
> > > Rustoleum
> > > Rust Reformer, Mar-Hyde and RustMort are all good products.
> > > B) I'm going to have the body media blasted after the patching, should I
> > > spray a primer shot over the patches as soon as I have them finished to
> > > stop
> > > any rusting or does it not matter?
>
> I know Mar-Hyde works very well but is flammable.
>
> Mario
> Vintage werks resto

I bought Rust Bullet.. Cheaper.. Is this bad to use?

anton wrote:
> I thought that you would normaly do media blasting prior to any body
> work to reveal any rust, bondo and etc.
>
> It doesn't really make sence to me to do both patching and PORing the
> car. It's one or another. I have used POR on the floor pans mainly
> because I don't have a facility to replace them and patching some of
> the areas is imposisible due to the location of the rust and the
> damage. Seems to be ok.
>
> Anton
>
>
>
>
> wrote:
> > > > 1) Should I treat all the rust underneath the body and frame before
> > > > welding
> > > > all the patches? (Seems to me I can get to more of the underside and
> > > > hidden
> > > > areas by treating them before patching all the holes)
> > > >
> > > > If so:
> > > >
> > > > A) What is the best treatment for the rust? I've been told POR 15,
> > > > Rustoleum
> > > > Rust Reformer, Mar-Hyde and RustMort are all good products.
> > > > B) I'm going to have the body media blasted after the patching, should I
> > > > spray a primer shot over the patches as soon as I have them finished to
> > > > stop
> > > > any rusting or does it not matter?
> >
> > I know Mar-Hyde works very well but is flammable.
> >
> > Mario
> > Vintage werks resto

I bought Masterseries for mine. It came highly recommended off of Samba
forums:

http://www.masterseriesct.com/

Rust bullet was in my selection choice, as well as POR15. I have heard
good things about all three of these...

Ben
63 Ghia
"Der PMP"


wrote:
> I bought Rust Bullet.. Cheaper.. Is this bad to use?
>
> anton wrote:
> > I thought that you would normaly do media blasting prior to any body
> > work to reveal any rust, bondo and etc.
> >
> > It doesn't really make sence to me to do both patching and PORing the
> > car. It's one or another. I have used POR on the floor pans mainly
> > because I don't have a facility to replace them and patching some of
> > the areas is imposisible due to the location of the rust and the
> > damage. Seems to be ok.
> >
> > Anton
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > wrote:
> > > > > 1) Should I treat all the rust underneath the body and frame before
> > > > > welding
> > > > > all the patches? (Seems to me I can get to more of the underside and
> > > > > hidden
> > > > > areas by treating them before patching all the holes)
> > > > >
> > > > > If so:
> > > > >
> > > > > A) What is the best treatment for the rust? I've been told POR 15,
> > > > > Rustoleum
> > > > > Rust Reformer, Mar-Hyde and RustMort are all good products.
> > > > > B) I'm going to have the body media blasted after the patching, should I
> > > > > spray a primer shot over the patches as soon as I have them finished to
> > > > > stop
> > > > > any rusting or does it not matter?
> > >
> > > I know Mar-Hyde works very well but is flammable.
> > >
> > > Mario
> > > Vintage werks resto

help-slip-franklin wrote:
> Well, I'm in the process of removing all the old body filler on my '72 SB
> and cutting all the rust holes out down to good metal so I can weld new
> pieces over the holes in the body and I'm confronted with the follow
> questions:
>
> 1) Should I treat all the rust underneath the body and frame before welding
> all the patches? (Seems to me I can get to more of the underside and hidden
> areas by treating them before patching all the holes)
>
> If so:
>
> A) What is the best treatment for the rust? I've been told POR 15, Rustoleum
> Rust Reformer, Mar-Hyde and RustMort are all good products.
> B) I'm going to have the body media blasted after the patching, should I
> spray a primer shot over the patches as soon as I have them finished to stop
> any rusting or does it not matter?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> H-S-F

Just finished a total off chassis rebuilt 74 1200 T1, felt the only way
to get rid of the rust was to remove every thing that looked faintly
rusty, there is no such product as a rust converter, try as many as you
like, then attack it with a powered wire brush and you will see more
rust. Get the shot blasting done, apply a good primer before the bare
matal can rust, and I mean in minutes, then weld in all the new bits.
each time cleaning the repair and getting primer on quickly.

> wrote in message
ups.com...
> Just finished a total off chassis rebuilt 74 1200 T1, felt the only way
> to get rid of the rust was to remove every thing that looked faintly
> rusty, there is no such product as a rust converter, try as many as you
> like, then attack it with a powered wire brush and you will see more
> rust.

Rust cannot advance without air, which includes moisture in most of our
climates. A seal stops rust. It ain't like cancer.

Are we good with that?

I have been trying Naval (Navel?) Jelly with some success so far. Of course
I ground most of the rust away first.
I tried without using this chemical and rust seemed to come back quickly
(1-2 years) even using POR-15 and paint.
I have done other vehicles using Naval Jelly and it seemed to kill the rust.
I did many treatments to make sure that the treated area did not turn black
anymore.

JMHO
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)
http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/



"j" > wrote in message
...
> > wrote in message
> ups.com...
>> Just finished a total off chassis rebuilt 74 1200 T1, felt the only way
>> to get rid of the rust was to remove every thing that looked faintly
>> rusty, there is no such product as a rust converter, try as many as you
>> like, then attack it with a powered wire brush and you will see more
>> rust.
>
> Rust cannot advance without air, which includes moisture in most of our
> climates. A seal stops rust. It ain't like cancer.
>
> Are we good with that?
>
>
>