sudden engine overheating

I have a '93 Saturn SL1 with 146k miles that catastrophically
overheated on the highway recently (still need to get it towed and into
a repair shop from a mall parking lot!). I'm trying to get an idea of
what might have happened and whether there could be significant engine
damage. This problem came mostly out of nowhere, although there have
been a few odd things lately:

1. Had the EGR valve replaced a few weeks ago after a hesitation
problem - after my mechanic forced the valve closed, essentially
disconnecting it from the pneumatic mechanism, the hesitation
completely disappeared. So he installed a new valve, hesitation was
gone.
2. Soon after having the EGR valve replaced, the check engine light
came on again (code 26 - quad drive module), which only happened at
speeds in excess of 65 mph. This light first came on at high speeds 8
months ago, and it didn't seem to be a big issue, and the light went
off once slowing down to 60 mph or lower - I figured it was something
worthless like the canister purge solenoid, or after the EGR incident,
that it was perhaps because of the EGR. Apparently not.
3. Although the entire car is a rattling piece of plastic junk and I
give up trying to diagnose individual rattles, since shortly before the
EGR valve went bad, there has been a loud rattle and occasionally a
grinding sound coming from somewhere under the hood. Other than the
sound, everything seemed to run fine. Right before overheating, there
was a chirping sound, but after a prolonged horrible squealing after
overheating and attempting to drive again, it looks like these sounds
are due to the drive belt covered in coolant ejected from the
reservoir.
4. A few months ago, the coolant overheat/fill light flashed at me a
few times (while the engine was still cold). I never had to add
coolant before, but it was very slightly below the fill bar. I added
some coolant and the light didn't come back.

I don't know how long I was driving with the engine really hot, but
suddenly I looked down and the temp gauge was way up in the red zone.
Since it was pitch black, late at night, and freezing outside, and I
don't own a cell phone, I decided to try to get the car to an area near
a phone. The fan was blowing after turning the car off, so it must
have known it was overheating. Turned it on once more after about 10
minutes, horrible squealing (wet drive belt?) when reentering the
highway, and it shot up to past the red mark within 30 seconds and for
the first time the coolant overheat light started flashing. I pulled
over again, turned the car off, and after a few minutes once more
entered the highway and drove, with the light flashing, to a mall off
the highway. The car was 'smoking' but it smelled only like burning
coolant. Coolant was belched everywhere under the hood and it lost
possibly up to half a liter pouring onto the pavement. What are the
chances that serious damage was done to the engine? Is there any
relationship at all between the vacuum used to open/close the EGR
valve, engine pressure, and possible head gasket seal leaks? Any
suggestions are appreciated.

Also - this is eerily similar to major problems I had with my last car,
an 87 Nova. I had perpetual problems trying to prevent the car from
overheating, but it was usually fine so long as it wasn't the middle of
summer in stop-and-go traffic. Something was pressurizing the coolant
(head gasket seal problem? It was blown years before and fixed, but
maybe not well enough) and it was being ejected from the reservoir.
The radiator appeared empty, as it had a cap and was accessible, unlike
the Saturn. The car probably only badly overheated once when I tried
some stupid tip I read online about leaving the radiator cap slightly
open while driving to alleviate the pressure drop (I was desperate, and
it was 100 degrees that day...), and it died of what was probably a
cracked cylinder catastrophically on the interstate a couple months
afterwards. If this is likely to happen to the Saturn, I don't think I
want to spend $1000 or more fixing it now.

I do not believe items 1 through 3 are related to your engine overheating.
Item #4 though was a warning sign that there was a problem, possibly a major
one like a head gasket or a minor one like a stuck closed thermostat, a
leaking water pump/hose/radiator.

By not addressing the issue at the early warning sign, this has now
definitely turned into a major problem. I'd guess that you probably blew
the head gasket, then cooked the oil.

Never, ever continue to drive an overheated vehicle without at least letting
it cool down completely and then checking to make sure the coolant level is
full. Continuing to drive it, especially at high RPM/speed was the worst
thing you could have done. In the future, you should immediately turn the
heater and blower on full hot to help provide additional cooling to the
engine and if the temperature does not go down, then pull over and shut it
down completely.

Please post what they find and estimated cost to repair. Also make sure you
change the oil and filter as well as the coolant when you do the required
mechanical repairs.

Bob

> wrote in message
oups.com...
>I have a '93 Saturn SL1 with 146k miles that catastrophically
> overheated on the highway recently (still need to get it towed and into
> a repair shop from a mall parking lot!). I'm trying to get an idea of
> what might have happened and whether there could be significant engine
> damage. This problem came mostly out of nowhere, although there have
> been a few odd things lately:
>
> 1 > 2 & > 3 Totally unrelated and common EGR valve issue.

> Right before overheating, there
> was a chirping sound, but after a prolonged horrible squealing after
> overheating and attempting to drive again, it looks like these sounds
> are due to the drive belt covered in coolant ejected from the
> reservoir.

> 4. A few months ago, the coolant overheat/fill light flashed at me a
> few times (while the engine was still cold). I never had to add
> coolant before, but it was very slightly below the fill bar. I added
> some coolant and the light didn't come back.

> I don't know how long I was driving with the engine really hot, but
> suddenly I looked down and the temp gauge was way up in the red zone.
> Since it was pitch black, late at night, and freezing outside, and I
> don't own a cell phone, I decided to try to get the car to an area near
> a phone. The fan was blowing after turning the car off, so it must
> have known it was overheating. Turned it on once more after about 10
> minutes, horrible squealing (wet drive belt?) when reentering the
> highway, and it shot up to past the red mark within 30 seconds and for
> the first time the coolant overheat light started flashing. I pulled
> over again, turned the car off, and after a few minutes once more
> entered the highway and drove, with the light flashing, to a mall off
> the highway. The car was 'smoking' but it smelled only like burning
> coolant. Coolant was belched everywhere under the hood and it lost
> possibly up to half a liter pouring onto the pavement. What are the
> chances that serious damage was done to the engine? Is there any
> relationship at all between the vacuum used to open/close the EGR
> valve, engine pressure, and possible head gasket seal leaks? Any
> suggestions are appreciated.

Bob Shuman wrote:
> I do not believe items 1 through 3 are related to your engine overheating.
> Item #4 though was a warning sign that there was a problem, possibly a major
> one like a head gasket or a minor one like a stuck closed thermostat, a
> leaking water pump/hose/radiator.
>
> By not addressing the issue at the early warning sign, this has now
> definitely turned into a major problem. I'd guess that you probably blew
> the head gasket, then cooked the oil.
>
> Never, ever continue to drive an overheated vehicle without at least letting
> it cool down completely and then checking to make sure the coolant level is
> full. Continuing to drive it, especially at high RPM/speed was the worst
> thing you could have done. In the future, you should immediately turn the
> heater and blower on full hot to help provide additional cooling to the
> engine and if the temperature does not go down, then pull over and shut it
> down completely.
>
> Please post what they find and estimated cost to repair. Also make sure you
> change the oil and filter as well as the coolant when you do the required
> mechanical repairs.

Thanks for your reply. The car was started briefly to bring it up onto
the tow truck bed and there was some white smoke (but nothing like the
billowing huge clouds). There really wasn't much of an early warning
sign since if the coolant was leaking, it wasn't doing it very much
(which could be anything minor in an old car from an aging hose to a
corroding radiator). It didn't seem to leak anymore after the initial
refill, and I checked it a few times afterwards. The mechanic it was
towed to said if it's a blown head gasket (and likely if there's *any*
white smoke), it would be something like $1200-2000 to fix it, and he
doesn't recommend doing so, and may even refuse to do so, on a car with
over 100k miles since something else could go a month later. I don't
really appreciate this mindset, since if I bought another car, it would
probably have over 100k on it from the start, and something is just as
likely if not more likely to be wrong with it. My Nova's head gasket
was replaced at close to 100k for $600 and it survived another 4-5
years (billowing white clouds, and as a stupid teenager I drove it for
2 days like that). So I'll probably get it fixed even if I have to
have it towed somewhere else after diagnosis, which is worth it for
$60. Is $1200-$2000 a ridiculous price for replacing the head gasket
on a Saturn? I know these cars are expensive to repair but that sounds
a little crazy. The repair shop looked a little too pretty and nice
for my price range, so it wouldn't surprise me if they charge top
prices. But I trust them to diagnose it well.

I know it's my fault for driving it further, but things are a little
scary in this area for a young woman walking alone at 11:30pm on a
Saturday night, plus I wasn't well-prepared for the cold weather nor
did I have a cell phone. I probably should have driven it in more
short spurts but that wasn't going too well. I also had nonrefundable
airplane tickets and had to leave for the airport in 5 hours! It was
a tough judgment call, having a vague idea but not knowing how much
damage was already done or would be done by driving an extra mile or
so. Will let you know what the diagnosis is.

> Is $1200-$2000 a ridiculous price for replacing the head gasket
on a Saturn?

Yes, that is ridiculous. Get a 2nd or 3rd estimate.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]
---
Visit my Saturn Car Audio and Performance Page at http://www.evilplastic.com



> wrote in message
ps.com...
>
> Bob Shuman wrote:
> > I do not believe items 1 through 3 are related to your engine
overheating.
> > Item #4 though was a warning sign that there was a problem, possibly a
major
> > one like a head gasket or a minor one like a stuck closed thermostat, a
> > leaking water pump/hose/radiator.
> >
> > By not addressing the issue at the early warning sign, this has now
> > definitely turned into a major problem. I'd guess that you probably
blew
> > the head gasket, then cooked the oil.
> >
> > Never, ever continue to drive an overheated vehicle without at least
letting
> > it cool down completely and then checking to make sure the coolant level
is
> > full. Continuing to drive it, especially at high RPM/speed was the
worst
> > thing you could have done. In the future, you should immediately turn
the
> > heater and blower on full hot to help provide additional cooling to the
> > engine and if the temperature does not go down, then pull over and shut
it
> > down completely.
> >
> > Please post what they find and estimated cost to repair. Also make sure
you
> > change the oil and filter as well as the coolant when you do the
required
> > mechanical repairs.
>
> Thanks for your reply. The car was started briefly to bring it up onto
> the tow truck bed and there was some white smoke (but nothing like the
> billowing huge clouds). There really wasn't much of an early warning
> sign since if the coolant was leaking, it wasn't doing it very much
> (which could be anything minor in an old car from an aging hose to a
> corroding radiator). It didn't seem to leak anymore after the initial
> refill, and I checked it a few times afterwards. The mechanic it was
> towed to said if it's a blown head gasket (and likely if there's *any*
> white smoke), it would be something like $1200-2000 to fix it, and he
> doesn't recommend doing so, and may even refuse to do so, on a car with
> over 100k miles since something else could go a month later. I don't
> really appreciate this mindset, since if I bought another car, it would
> probably have over 100k on it from the start, and something is just as
> likely if not more likely to be wrong with it. My Nova's head gasket
> was replaced at close to 100k for $600 and it survived another 4-5
> years (billowing white clouds, and as a stupid teenager I drove it for
> 2 days like that). So I'll probably get it fixed even if I have to
> have it towed somewhere else after diagnosis, which is worth it for
> $60. Is $1200-$2000 a ridiculous price for replacing the head gasket
> on a Saturn? I know these cars are expensive to repair but that sounds
> a little crazy. The repair shop looked a little too pretty and nice
> for my price range, so it wouldn't surprise me if they charge top
> prices. But I trust them to diagnose it well.
>
> I know it's my fault for driving it further, but things are a little
> scary in this area for a young woman walking alone at 11:30pm on a
> Saturday night, plus I wasn't well-prepared for the cold weather nor
> did I have a cell phone. I probably should have driven it in more
> short spurts but that wasn't going too well. I also had nonrefundable
> airplane tickets and had to leave for the airport in 5 hours! It was
> a tough judgment call, having a vague idea but not knowing how much
> damage was already done or would be done by driving an extra mile or
> so. Will let you know what the diagnosis is.
>

On 24 Mar 2006 20:50:24 -0800, wrote:


More than likely it is a stuck thermostat. If engine was overheated
badly enough to wraps head and blow a head gasket or cause other
damage, you would be better to replace the engine with a bone yard
motor because sometimes when a motor is cooked good, it is never quite
right again even after repairs and if the head of block is not cracked
now, it may later.

>I have a '93 Saturn SL1 with 146k miles that catastrophically
>overheated on the highway recently (still need to get it towed and into
>a repair shop from a mall parking lot!). I'm trying to get an idea of
>what might have happened and whether there could be significant engine
>damage. This problem came mostly out of nowhere, although there have
>been a few odd things lately:
>
>1. Had the EGR valve replaced a few weeks ago after a hesitation
>problem - after my mechanic forced the valve closed, essentially
>disconnecting it from the pneumatic mechanism, the hesitation
>completely disappeared. So he installed a new valve, hesitation was
>gone.
>2. Soon after having the EGR valve replaced, the check engine light
>came on again (code 26 - quad drive module), which only happened at
>speeds in excess of 65 mph. This light first came on at high speeds 8
>months ago, and it didn't seem to be a big issue, and the light went
>off once slowing down to 60 mph or lower - I figured it was something
>worthless like the canister purge solenoid, or after the EGR incident,
>that it was perhaps because of the EGR. Apparently not.
>3. Although the entire car is a rattling piece of plastic junk and I
>give up trying to diagnose individual rattles, since shortly before the
>EGR valve went bad, there has been a loud rattle and occasionally a
>grinding sound coming from somewhere under the hood. Other than the
>sound, everything seemed to run fine. Right before overheating, there
>was a chirping sound, but after a prolonged horrible squealing after
>overheating and attempting to drive again, it looks like these sounds
>are due to the drive belt covered in coolant ejected from the
>reservoir.
>4. A few months ago, the coolant overheat/fill light flashed at me a
>few times (while the engine was still cold). I never had to add
>coolant before, but it was very slightly below the fill bar. I added
>some coolant and the light didn't come back.
>
>I don't know how long I was driving with the engine really hot, but
>suddenly I looked down and the temp gauge was way up in the red zone.
>Since it was pitch black, late at night, and freezing outside, and I
>don't own a cell phone, I decided to try to get the car to an area near
>a phone. The fan was blowing after turning the car off, so it must
>have known it was overheating. Turned it on once more after about 10
>minutes, horrible squealing (wet drive belt?) when reentering the
>highway, and it shot up to past the red mark within 30 seconds and for
>the first time the coolant overheat light started flashing. I pulled
>over again, turned the car off, and after a few minutes once more
>entered the highway and drove, with the light flashing, to a mall off
>the highway. The car was 'smoking' but it smelled only like burning
>coolant. Coolant was belched everywhere under the hood and it lost
>possibly up to half a liter pouring onto the pavement. What are the
>chances that serious damage was done to the engine? Is there any
>relationship at all between the vacuum used to open/close the EGR
>valve, engine pressure, and possible head gasket seal leaks? Any
>suggestions are appreciated.
>
>Also - this is eerily similar to major problems I had with my last car,
>an 87 Nova. I had perpetual problems trying to prevent the car from
>overheating, but it was usually fine so long as it wasn't the middle of
>summer in stop-and-go traffic. Something was pressurizing the coolant
>(head gasket seal problem? It was blown years before and fixed, but
>maybe not well enough) and it was being ejected from the reservoir.
>The radiator appeared empty, as it had a cap and was accessible, unlike
>the Saturn. The car probably only badly overheated once when I tried
>some stupid tip I read online about leaving the radiator cap slightly
>open while driving to alleviate the pressure drop (I was desperate, and
>it was 100 degrees that day...), and it died of what was probably a
>cracked cylinder catastrophically on the interstate a couple months
>afterwards. If this is likely to happen to the Saturn, I don't think I
>want to spend $1000 or more fixing it now.

1000 dollars or so will buy a lower mileage engine out of a wreck with
install.
Being a 93 I'm theorizing the coolant wasnt changed every 2 years and
years of having a bad PH balance had ate up the head gasket and probably
the waterpump.


In article >,
says...
> On 24 Mar 2006 20:50:24 -0800, wrote:
>
>
> More than likely it is a stuck thermostat. If engine was overheated
> badly enough to wraps head and blow a head gasket or cause other
> damage, you would be better to replace the engine with a bone yard
> motor because sometimes when a motor is cooked good, it is never quite
> right again even after repairs and if the head of block is not cracked
> now, it may later.
>
> >I have a '93 Saturn SL1 with 146k miles that catastrophically
> >overheated on the highway recently (still need to get it towed and into
> >a repair shop from a mall parking lot!). I'm trying to get an idea of
> >what might have happened and whether there could be significant engine
> >damage. This problem came mostly out of nowhere, although there have
> >been a few odd things lately:
> >
> >1. Had the EGR valve replaced a few weeks ago after a hesitation
> >problem - after my mechanic forced the valve closed, essentially
> >disconnecting it from the pneumatic mechanism, the hesitation
> >completely disappeared. So he installed a new valve, hesitation was
> >gone.
> >2. Soon after having the EGR valve replaced, the check engine light
> >came on again (code 26 - quad drive module), which only happened at
> >speeds in excess of 65 mph. This light first came on at high speeds 8
> >months ago, and it didn't seem to be a big issue, and the light went
> >off once slowing down to 60 mph or lower - I figured it was something
> >worthless like the canister purge solenoid, or after the EGR incident,
> >that it was perhaps because of the EGR. Apparently not.
> >3. Although the entire car is a rattling piece of plastic junk and I
> >give up trying to diagnose individual rattles, since shortly before the
> >EGR valve went bad, there has been a loud rattle and occasionally a
> >grinding sound coming from somewhere under the hood. Other than the
> >sound, everything seemed to run fine. Right before overheating, there
> >was a chirping sound, but after a prolonged horrible squealing after
> >overheating and attempting to drive again, it looks like these sounds
> >are due to the drive belt covered in coolant ejected from the
> >reservoir.
> >4. A few months ago, the coolant overheat/fill light flashed at me a
> >few times (while the engine was still cold). I never had to add
> >coolant before, but it was very slightly below the fill bar. I added
> >some coolant and the light didn't come back.
> >
> >I don't know how long I was driving with the engine really hot, but
> >suddenly I looked down and the temp gauge was way up in the red zone.
> >Since it was pitch black, late at night, and freezing outside, and I
> >don't own a cell phone, I decided to try to get the car to an area near
> >a phone. The fan was blowing after turning the car off, so it must
> >have known it was overheating. Turned it on once more after about 10
> >minutes, horrible squealing (wet drive belt?) when reentering the

On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 03:26:32 GMT, blah blah > wrote:

I never change my antifreeze every 2 years but I do run around 70%
anitfreeze though and have for many years and have no build up
problems at all. I have a 89 burb that the overflow tank is as clean
as the day it was built with no stains and it has no had a coolant
change for about 7 years now. I also have a 1954 JD tractor that has
not had a coolant change in 20 years but it is almost pure antifreeze
(80 to 90%) and it is clean still too. It sees about 30 to 50 hours of
use a year too. The best way to insure coolant stabilty is to run
60/40 or better as 50/50 does not cut it long term, especailly if a
motor with aluminum parts. Wate is very reactive with disimular metals
and the less of it in your coolant, the better.

>1000 dollars or so will buy a lower mileage engine out of a wreck with
>install.
>Being a 93 I'm theorizing the coolant wasnt changed every 2 years and
>years of having a bad PH balance had ate up the head gasket and probably
>the waterpump.
>
>
>In article >,
says...
>> On 24 Mar 2006 20:50:24 -0800, wrote:
>>
>>
>> More than likely it is a stuck thermostat. If engine was overheated
>> badly enough to wraps head and blow a head gasket or cause other
>> damage, you would be better to replace the engine with a bone yard
>> motor because sometimes when a motor is cooked good, it is never quite
>> right again even after repairs and if the head of block is not cracked
>> now, it may later.
>>
>> >I have a '93 Saturn SL1 with 146k miles that catastrophically
>> >overheated on the highway recently (still need to get it towed and into
>> >a repair shop from a mall parking lot!). I'm trying to get an idea of
>> >what might have happened and whether there could be significant engine
>> >damage. This problem came mostly out of nowhere, although there have
>> >been a few odd things lately:
>> >
>> >1. Had the EGR valve replaced a few weeks ago after a hesitation
>> >problem - after my mechanic forced the valve closed, essentially
>> >disconnecting it from the pneumatic mechanism, the hesitation
>> >completely disappeared. So he installed a new valve, hesitation was
>> >gone.
>> >2. Soon after having the EGR valve replaced, the check engine light
>> >came on again (code 26 - quad drive module), which only happened at
>> >speeds in excess of 65 mph. This light first came on at high speeds 8
>> >months ago, and it didn't seem to be a big issue, and the light went
>> >off once slowing down to 60 mph or lower - I figured it was something
>> >worthless like the canister purge solenoid, or after the EGR incident,
>> >that it was perhaps because of the EGR. Apparently not.
>> >3. Although the entire car is a rattling piece of plastic junk and I
>> >give up trying to diagnose individual rattles, since shortly before the
>> >EGR valve went bad, there has been a loud rattle and occasionally a
>> >grinding sound coming from somewhere under the hood. Other than the
>> >sound, everything seemed to run fine. Right before overheating, there
>> >was a chirping sound, but after a prolonged horrible squealing after
>> >overheating and attempting to drive again, it looks like these sounds
>> >are due to the drive belt covered in coolant ejected from the
>> >reservoir.
>> >4. A few months ago, the coolant overheat/fill light flashed at me a
>> >few times (while the engine was still cold). I never had to add
>> >coolant before, but it was very slightly below the fill bar. I added
>> >some coolant and the light didn't come back.
>> >
>> >I don't know how long I was driving with the engine really hot, but
>> >suddenly I looked down and the temp gauge was way up in the red zone.
>> >Since it was pitch black, late at night, and freezing outside, and I
>> >don't own a cell phone, I decided to try to get the car to an area near
>> >a phone. The fan was blowing after turning the car off, so it must
>> >have known it was overheating. Turned it on once more after about 10
>> >minutes, horrible squealing (wet drive belt?) when reentering the

blah blah wrote:
> 1000 dollars or so will buy a lower mileage engine out of a wreck with
> install.
> Being a 93 I'm theorizing the coolant wasnt changed every 2 years and
> years of having a bad PH balance had ate up the head gasket and probably
> the waterpump.
>

I'm guessing that $1000 doesn't include installation, just pulling it
out of a junkyard (and who knows what might be wrong with it?). I live
in an apartment building and am not a hobbyist mechanic so the cost
would likely be at least double for me!

The cooling system problem has been diagnosed as the water pump. The
bearings went bad, which explains that grinding and rattling sound
under the hood that I described, that had occurred for a few months.

You're correct that the coolant was neglected (I only checked the level
and the color, but intended to get a flush, just never got around to
it) but supposedly the water pumps are something that you just need to
preventatively replace at ca. 100k miles, and if it was the bearings,
the failure wasn't due to corrosion. The mechanic won't check the
engine for damage until they can run it without causing further damage
(is this common practice? it might be worth it for my sake to just turn
it on for a couple minutes and check the emissions composition or
pressure or whatever...), so they're replacing the water pump and belt
and will then further diagnose. If the head gasket is ruined, there
was no sign of it prior to the overheating incident. I had some water
condensation around the engine oil cap that looked like a water/oil
emulsion last time I did an oil change, but was informed that some
water condensation around the cap is normal if the car is only driven
short distances without warming up, particularly in winter. The rest
of the drained oil looked ok.

In article . com>,
says...
> blah blah wrote:
> > 1000 dollars or so will buy a lower mileage engine out of a wreck with
> > install.
> > Being a 93 I'm theorizing the coolant wasnt changed every 2 years and
> > years of having a bad PH balance had ate up the head gasket and probably
> > the waterpump.
> >
>
> I'm guessing that $1000 doesn't include installation, just pulling it
> out of a junkyard (and who knows what might be wrong with it?). I live
> in an apartment building and am not a hobbyist mechanic so the cost
> would likely be at least double for me!

Nah that was the whole shebang if you shop around ($400 for motor, rest
labor). Yeah the replacement motor is a big question mark but then again
so is yours in a way.


> The cooling system problem has been diagnosed as the water pump. The
> bearings went bad, which explains that grinding and rattling sound
> under the hood that I described, that had occurred for a few months.
>
> You're correct that the coolant was neglected (I only checked the level
> and the color, but intended to get a flush, just never got around to
> it) but supposedly the water pumps are something that you just need to
> preventatively replace at ca. 100k miles, and if it was the bearings,
> the failure wasn't due to corrosion. The mechanic won't check the
> engine for damage until they can run it without causing further damage
> (is this common practice? it might be worth it for my sake to just turn
> it on for a couple minutes and check the emissions composition or
> pressure or whatever...), so they're replacing the water pump and belt
> and will then further diagnose. If the head gasket is ruined, there
> was no sign of it prior to the overheating incident. I had some water
> condensation around the engine oil cap that looked like a water/oil
> emulsion last time I did an oil change, but was informed that some
> water condensation around the cap is normal if the car is only driven
> short distances without warming up, particularly in winter. The rest
> of the drained oil looked ok.

Emissions have to be checked with the engine at a normal temp. A
cylinder leak down test can be done in its current state, also pressure
testing of the cooling system can be done. You might get lucky and be
able to get this engine up and running without any major work at all.

In article >,
says...
> On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 03:26:32 GMT, blah blah > wrote:
>
> I never change my antifreeze every 2 years but I do run around 70%
> anitfreeze though and have for many years and have no build up
> problems at all. I have a 89 burb that the overflow tank is as clean
> as the day it was built with no stains and it has no had a coolant
> change for about 7 years now. I also have a 1954 JD tractor that has
> not had a coolant change in 20 years but it is almost pure antifreeze
> (80 to 90%) and it is clean still too. It sees about 30 to 50 hours of
> use a year too. The best way to insure coolant stabilty is to run
> 60/40 or better as 50/50 does not cut it long term, especailly if a
> motor with aluminum parts. Wate is very reactive with disimular metals
> and the less of it in your coolant, the better.

You have some points there but not enough caution to people who are in a
different climate than you. Pure antifreeze will freeze and doesnt do a
very good job of absorbing and transfering heat away from an engine.
Clean means nothing when you have acid in your cooling system and not
just in your battery. So more antifreeze can be a very bad thing. Tap
water or just dirty unfiltered water gets people into trouble. I use a
carbon filter jug (once used for drinking water) here at home to distile
my well water. I use a 50/50 mix of dexcool and all of my vehicles
cooling systems are very clean.

http://www.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForu...images/680.jpg