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Frugal auto transportation: theories?



 
 
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  #11  
Old January 5th 05, 03:58 AM
Rod Speed
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John R Weiss > wrote
in message news:SwICd.281115$5K2.27171@attbi_s03...
> Tock > wrote...


>> Lots of cheap VW bugs still out there, and parts are still easy to come by.
>> Best years, IMHO, are 69 to 71, after the switch to 12 volts and before they
>> put air pumps on the engine. Pre-67's are ok, if you don't mind the single
>> circuit brake lines . . .


> IIRC, the 67s had the best power/weight ratio; also, 12V, large rear window,
> pre-smog rules...


Still think the body design is well past its useby date and
that a Golf of the same vintage makes a lot more sense.

> OTOH, they have become a cult car, and may be relatively expensive to buy...



Ads
  #12  
Old January 5th 05, 04:52 AM
Bob
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As long as everyone is throwing stupid ideas for cheap transportation out
there I might as well add mine. A late 80s to mid 90s Lincoln Continental,
they get decent mileage and you can buy them cheap........ lol...
Bob
"Tock" > wrote in message
om...
>
> "Tock" > wrote in message
> om...
>> Lots of cheap VW bugs still out there, and parts are still easy to come
>> by. Best years, IMHO, are 69 to 71, after the switch to 12 volts and
>> before they put air pumps on the engine. Pre-67's are ok, if you don't
>> mind the single circuit brake lines . . .
>> --Tock

>
>
>
> Oh yah, heard on PBS radio tonight that some company started up in France
> to do nothing but make replacement parts for the Citroen 2-CV. They're
> able to build an entire new car from their inventory . . . so there's
> another possibility . . .
> -Tock
>



  #13  
Old January 5th 05, 06:38 AM
Victor Smith
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On Wed, 5 Jan 2005 00:10:44 +0000 (UTC), Jonathan Grobe
> wrote:

>My traditional view of frugal auto transportation has
>been to have two beaters: (a small car I use most of
>the time and a larger vehicle for hauling larger cargoes
>and for backup). I've given up on my small car (a 1984
>Chrysler Laser with 265,000 miles and am considering
>what I should buy next (I got the Laser about 6 years
>ago when it had 145,000 miles on it). So taken
>everything into consideration (initial cost, repair
>costs, insurance/license costs, gas costs...) what do
>you recommend as the type (age, mileage, foreign vs
>domestic...) of vehicle to purchase?
>
>Thank you.


'96 Corsica, 2.2 engine. 50-80k on the odo.
Unless you suffer from car ego, you won't do better.
This assumes you exercise due diligence in examination/test drive,
and gas doesn't go above 5 bucks a gallon.
Car gets @22-33 mpg, city/highway.
1.5-3 g's for the car, depending.

--Vic
  #14  
Old January 5th 05, 07:19 AM
Jonathan Grobe
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On 2005-01-05, Al Bundy > wrote:
>>

> I think your transportation costs are about to go up dramatically with
> the newer technology and the cost of newer parts. If they can't get you
> with a new car they will kill you with parts and repairs. You might get
> away with one more care in the pre OBDll era before about '93.


What is the pre OBD11 era? Please clarify about the costs of newer
technology and new parts...

--
Jonathan Grobe Books
Browse our inventory of thousands of used books at:
http://www.grobebooks.com

  #15  
Old January 5th 05, 07:44 AM
James
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"Jonathan Grobe" > wrote in message
...
> My traditional view of frugal auto transportation has
> been to have two beaters: (a small car I use most of
> the time and a larger vehicle for hauling larger cargoes
> and for backup). I've given up on my small car (a 1984
> Chrysler Laser with 265,000 miles and am considering
> what I should buy next (I got the Laser about 6 years
> ago when it had 145,000 miles on it). So taken
> everything into consideration (initial cost, repair
> costs, insurance/license costs, gas costs...) what do
> you recommend as the type (age, mileage, foreign vs
> domestic...) of vehicle to purchase?
>
> Thank you.
>
> --
> Jonathan Grobe Books
> Browse our inventory of thousands of used books at:
> http://www.grobebooks.com
>


Your second car should always be a "PICKUP TRUCK". Can you think of any
thing more useful or practical than a pickup truck? Hell, for many people
their pickup is their first vehicle not the second one.


  #16  
Old January 5th 05, 07:48 AM
Nate Nagel
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Daniel J. Stern wrote:

> On Wed, 5 Jan 2005, Jonathan Grobe wrote:
>
>
>>My traditional view of frugal auto transportation has been to have two
>>beaters: (a small car I use most of the time and a larger vehicle for
>>hauling larger cargoes and for backup). I've given up on my small car (a
>>1984 Chrysler Laser with 265,000 miles and am considering what I should
>>buy next (I got the Laser about 6 years ago when it had 145,000 miles on
>>it). So taken everything into consideration (initial cost, repair costs,
>>insurance/license costs, gas costs...) what do you recommend as the type
>>(age, mileage, foreign vs domestic...) of vehicle to purchase?

>
>
> A Dodge Spirit or Plymouth Acclaim with non-turbo 4-cylinder engine and
> either automatic or (preferably but harder to find) manual transmission.
> They are much sturdier, more reliable and more durable than your '84 Laser
> was (and look how long you managed to make your Laser last!), with
> identically inexpensive parts/service/insurance costs. Gas mileage is high
> 20s to high 30s depending on equipment and driving conditions.You and/or
> your mechanic will already be familiar with Chrysler FWD cars, so there'll
> be no new learning curve. Thieves don't see them any more. Cops look right
> through them. They have good heaters, defoggers and air conditioners, and
> most of them came with cruise control. There are still plenty of low-miles
> examples around, especially if you're willing to travel for the right one.
> The '91-'93 models are the best. '94-'95 models have a less-safe
> (automatic motorized) right front seat belt, but are otherwise identically
> reliable and the motorized belt can easily be removed and replaced with
> the safer manual belt from a '91-'93 car. There's nothing really wrong
> with the '89-'90 cars, but the '91-up suspension is somewhat better.
>
> DS


I vote for an A2 chassis VW Golf or Jetta, base model, no power options.
The froofy stuff is crap on VWs but the basic mechanicals are solid
and easy to work on. I know DS will disagree with me vehemently, but I
have had excellent luck with them. Do try to find one in good condition
though, a "beater" can be more trouble than it's worth if the PO has let
everything go to hell. Beware of blown heater cores, there was a recall
on them but VWoA is a pain in the keister about it.

Alternately, I like the old A-body MoPars, you know, Dart, Valiant,
Duster, Demon, etc.

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
  #17  
Old January 5th 05, 07:49 AM
Nate Nagel
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Tock wrote:

> Lots of cheap VW bugs still out there, and parts are still easy to come by.
> Best years, IMHO, are 69 to 71, after the switch to 12 volts and before they
> put air pumps on the engine. Pre-67's are ok, if you don't mind the single
> circuit brake lines . . .
> --Tock
>
>


Not if you're in the rust belt. Perhaps the OP will respond with a
location. Some of my other favorite "run till ya drop" cars are also
excluded from the list because I still live in an area where rust is
somewhat a concern.

Now the watercooled VWs seemed to have better rust protection...

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
  #18  
Old January 5th 05, 07:50 AM
SoCalMike
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Jonathan Grobe wrote:
> What is the pre OBD11 era? Please clarify about the costs of newer
> technology and new parts...


OBD2- (not 11)

cars made in 1995 or older.
  #19  
Old January 5th 05, 07:52 AM
Nate Nagel
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John R Weiss wrote:

> "Tock" > wrote...
>
>>Lots of cheap VW bugs still out there, and parts are still easy to come by.
>>Best years, IMHO, are 69 to 71, after the switch to 12 volts and before they
>>put air pumps on the engine. Pre-67's are ok, if you don't mind the single
>>circuit brake lines . . .

>
>
> IIRC, the 67s had the best power/weight ratio; also, 12V, large rear window,
> pre-smog rules...
>
> OTOH, they have become a cult car, and may be relatively expensive to buy...
>
>


IMHO that's a good thing. A "cult car" will have a thriving aftermarket
parts supply. But I still would recommend a watercooled.

I'm currently driving a Porsche 944. You wouldn't think it would be
possible to drive it on a budget, but I've been doing all right by doing
as much work on it as I can myself and buying my parts from online
aftermarket sources. Fits right in with my theory that you want to buy
a car with a thriving enthusiast base. Also vehicle-specific newsgroups
and web boards are great if you're a DIYer, there's lots for Porsches,
VWs, but not so many for stuff like Cavaliers, etc. It really does pay
to drive an interesting car, that's my story and I'm sticking to it

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
  #20  
Old January 5th 05, 08:00 AM
James
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"Roger Blake" > wrote in message
...
> On Wed, 5 Jan 2005 00:10:44 +0000 (UTC), Jonathan Grobe >
> wrote:
>>you recommend as the type (age, mileage, foreign vs
>>domestic...) of vehicle to purchase?

>
> I would go with a domestic compact such as Rambler American, Studebaker
> Lark,
> Plymouth Valiant, Ford Falcon, etc. Each model has its own strengths and
> weaknesses, but as a group they are durable, easy to work on, and the
> pre-1973 models get decent gas mileage. I guess the foreign tin can
> be somewhat attractive due to better gas mileage, but that can be offset
> by the price and availability of parts and service. (Ever try to get
> a fuel pump for your Borgward while stuck out in the middle of nowhere?)
>
> --
> Roger Blake
> (Subtract 10 for email.)


Yea, right. You are joking right? Where do you suggest one find a
Studebaker or a Rambler? I have not seen one of those in over 35 years.
However, there are some Ford Falcons still around, my neighbor that lives
across the street has 2 of them. One of them is for sale, he wants $600.00
for it and it does run.


 




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