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Here are a few checks you can perform without getting out your gauge
set.* My experience has been that a/c is something GM did well in this class of vehicle, and when functioning properly it should make things good and cold. 1. Under circumstances when you think it should be cooling but isn't, is the compressor clutch engaged? If you can't tell from behind the wheel, find a parking spot where you can safely leave the engine running and pop the hood and take a look. Some cars (dunno about this one) have demand cutoffs that temporarily disengage the a/c compressor when you accelerate, which you do a lot more often around town. 2. Does it give more satisfactory results on the MAX a/c setting? MAX closes the air-circulation intakes, so you are recirculating the cabin air and making it cooler and cooler rather than admitting hot outside air. 3. What does your engine temperature gauge look like when this is going on -- nominal, or getting pretty hot? 4. Is the temperature changer knob or slider all the way over to "Cool"... and is the heater core aware of that fact? Unless they changed it (along with several other things) between my '95 and your '96, make sure the cable linkage between the two hasn't gotten slack enough to be giving you heat... Best of luck, --Joe * Though presumably you have a gauge set if you've been recharging your own a/c... most cars have an overpressure cutoff switch in the circuit, which presumably could be tripping under some circumstances if you put too much in. One of the widely available consumer-grade brands of gauge, Interdynamics if memory serves, comes with a handy guide for interpreting the high-and low-side reading and needle behavior and other easily observed data. |
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