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Junkyard Engine Computer Issues
I think the PCM (powertrain control module) in my 1998 Grand Voyager,
3.3L w/anti-theft is bad, and I'd like to swap in one from a junk yard. In reading what I can find on the net, it seems like this should work. It sounds like there are problems with the BCM (body control module) if it does NOT have the anti-theft option and the replacement PCM DOES. But I do have anti-theft, so it sounds like if I get a non-anti-theft PCM it will not damage anything. However, I'm wondering about my VIN number and odometer readings. Will those come from the junkyard PCM? If so, how can that be corrected? It would be worthwhile to me to verify that the problem is the PCM by swapping in a used one, even if I have to buy another one from the dealer or pay to have the junk one reprogrammed. The junkyard PCM's can be had for ~$100, sounds like one from the dealer will cost many times that. I think my PCM is bad because it behaves erratically even when I just turn the key on, with the ASD, fuel pump, and purge valve relays clicking wildly. Battery is good, cranks well and measures 13.4V after charging. Cleaned battery cables, checked fuses, reseated power distribution and PCM connectors. -Paul |
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#2
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Junkyard Engine Computer Issues
Try Ebay first. I bought a Honda Accord PCM for 29 bucks.
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#3
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Junkyard Engine Computer Issues
wrote: > I think the PCM (powertrain control module) in my 1998 Grand Voyager, > 3.3L w/anti-theft is bad, and I'd like to swap in one from a junk yard. > Update on this. I searched for compatible engine computers online: http://www.car-part.com/ and found 10 or so. There was a huge variation in price, from $500 to $65, I ordered the $65 unit from All West Coast Auto Wrecking in Washington. They sent me the wrong part, a transmission computer. Easy mistake to make, that one is on the right fender, the correct part is mounted on the left fender. I figured I'd get the run around, but they said they had the right part, and just send back the wrong one, which I did. I expected it to take a week for them to receive my package and send me the correct part, but they shipped without waiting so I got it in 3 days. I plugged it in, and it fixed the problem. So I guess I still have to buy one from the dealer with the correct VIN programmed, but I can take my time and won't have to pay a fortune for troubleshooting and having the wrong parts replaced. In fact, I may take a crack at the bad computer. I'm an electronic tech by trade, if I can get the potting compound off I may be able to troubleshoot it. I suspect a voltage regulator, since the problem affected all parts of the computer. Oh, I should mention that in searching the net, I found that a lot of people with a similar problem had fixed it by reflowing the solder on the instrument cluster connectors. There was a ground that tended to crack on the 1996-2000 minivans. Their van would suddenly quit and refuse to start, and they could get it going by pounding on the dash. So I pulled the instrument cluster, but could see no fractured solder joints. I reflowed the solder on the cable connectors anyway, but it didn't help in my case. Hope this helps someone down the road with one of these problems. -Paul |
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Junkyard Engine Computer Issues
-- > wrote in message oups.com... > > wrote: > > I think the PCM (powertrain control module) in my 1998 Grand Voyager, > > 3.3L w/anti-theft is bad, and I'd like to swap in one from a junk yard. > > > > Update on this. I searched for compatible engine computers online: > http://www.car-part.com/ > > and found 10 or so. There was a huge variation in price, from $500 to > $65, I ordered the $65 unit from All West Coast Auto Wrecking in > Washington. > > They sent me the wrong part, a transmission computer. Easy mistake to > make, that one is on the right fender, the correct part is mounted on > the left fender. I figured I'd get the run around, but they said they > had the right part, and just send back the wrong one, which I did. I > expected it to take a week for them to receive my package and send me > the correct part, but they shipped without waiting so I got it in 3 > days. > > I plugged it in, and it fixed the problem. So I guess I still have to > buy one from the dealer with the correct VIN programmed, but I can take > my time and won't have to pay a fortune for troubleshooting and having > the wrong parts replaced. In fact, I may take a crack at the bad > computer. I'm an electronic tech by trade, if I can get the potting > compound off I may be able to troubleshoot it. I suspect a voltage > regulator, since the problem affected all parts of the computer. > > Oh, I should mention that in searching the net, I found that a lot of > people with a similar problem had fixed it by reflowing the solder on > the instrument cluster connectors. There was a ground that tended to > crack on the 1996-2000 minivans. Their van would suddenly quit and > refuse to start, and they could get it going by pounding on the dash. > So I pulled the instrument cluster, but could see no fractured solder > joints. I reflowed the solder on the cable connectors anyway, but it > didn't help in my case. > > Hope this helps someone down the road with one of these problems. > -Paul > Actually if you take the back cover off, plug the PCM back into the vehicle and wiggle the aluminum tower like thing that looks like cooler (I have no idea what it is) the engine will probably start and run until you wiggle it again, this is a common problem with those PCM's. Even the ones that MOPAR Remanufactures (by a sublet company) get put back out on the market with these problems. Try it and let me know if it starts Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech |
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Junkyard Engine Computer Issues
maxpower wrote: > -- > > > wrote in message > oups.com... > > > > wrote: > > > I think the PCM (powertrain control module) in my 1998 Grand Voyager, > > > 3.3L w/anti-theft is bad, and I'd like to swap in one from a junk yard. > > > > > > > Update on this. I searched for compatible engine computers online: > > http://www.car-part.com/ > > > > and found 10 or so. There was a huge variation in price, from $500 to > > $65, I ordered the $65 unit from All West Coast Auto Wrecking in > > Washington. > > > > They sent me the wrong part, a transmission computer. Easy mistake to > > make, that one is on the right fender, the correct part is mounted on > > the left fender. I figured I'd get the run around, but they said they > > had the right part, and just send back the wrong one, which I did. I > > expected it to take a week for them to receive my package and send me > > the correct part, but they shipped without waiting so I got it in 3 > > days. > > > > I plugged it in, and it fixed the problem. So I guess I still have to > > buy one from the dealer with the correct VIN programmed, but I can take > > my time and won't have to pay a fortune for troubleshooting and having > > the wrong parts replaced. In fact, I may take a crack at the bad > > computer. I'm an electronic tech by trade, if I can get the potting > > compound off I may be able to troubleshoot it. I suspect a voltage > > regulator, since the problem affected all parts of the computer. > > > > Oh, I should mention that in searching the net, I found that a lot of > > people with a similar problem had fixed it by reflowing the solder on > > the instrument cluster connectors. There was a ground that tended to > > crack on the 1996-2000 minivans. Their van would suddenly quit and > > refuse to start, and they could get it going by pounding on the dash. > > So I pulled the instrument cluster, but could see no fractured solder > > joints. I reflowed the solder on the cable connectors anyway, but it > > didn't help in my case. > > > > Hope this helps someone down the road with one of these problems. > > -Paul > > > > Actually if you take the back cover off, plug the PCM back into the vehicle > and wiggle the aluminum tower like thing that looks like cooler (I have no > idea what it is) the engine will probably start and run until you wiggle it > again, this is a common problem with those PCM's. Even the ones that MOPAR > Remanufactures (by a sublet company) get put back out on the market with > these problems. Try it and let me know if it starts > That's a good tip, I can see you know your stuff. I tried that already, I found some info online that said the solder joints on the connectors can crack, so I was in there pushing on everything thru the potting compound while my wife worked the key. Didn't make any difference. Something is drawing a lot more current than on the good computer, though, so I have a chance of zeroing in on it. Most likely it is one of the devices connected to the "silver towers", which are heat sinks. The parts that get hot are mounted on them, so they're the ones that tend to fail, and they're most likely voltage regulators. Peering thru the amber potting compound, the one at lower left looks like a switching power supply, it probably makes 5V out of 12V. Thanks for the reply. -Paul |
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Junkyard Engine Computer Issues
Well, why would you get another one with your vin encoded in it? The one you
have is working, so it would seem pretty stupid to spend the money on one to get the vin encoded on it? Especially since your vehicle is no longer under warranty. |
#7
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Junkyard Engine Computer Issues
wrote: > Well, why would you get another one with your vin encoded in it? The one you > have is working, so it would seem pretty stupid to spend the money on one to > get the vin encoded on it? Especially since your vehicle is no longer under > warranty. I'm in California. I'm told it won't pass my biannual smog test which is all computerized to prevent fraud. The car's a giant paperweight if it won't pass the smog test. I'm going to try to fix the old one, since I'm an electronic tech. Meantime, I can drive about a year until the next smog test is due. I'm actually pretty happy to have it driveable again, and know for certain what the problem is. I pictured getting ripped off for thousands of dollars as the dealer changed part after part. -Paul |
#8
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Junkyard Engine Computer Issues
I'm in Arizona and have to go for emissions every few years also. The only
thing they are worried about with the computer, is that they can plug in the scanner to prove there are no engine codes. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
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Junkyard Engine Computer Issues
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#10
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Junkyard Engine Computer Issues
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