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#1
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Geo Metro R wheel bearings keep failing
I've replaced wheel bearings on the same rear wheel about 5 times. They only
last a few weeks to a few months. The first failure spun in the hub so I had to replace the drum/hub. The spindle looks ok. The last time I got another used hub, first one was new. I was thinking that some internal dimension was off in the 1st new hub. Its only been about 3 weeks and the bearing is starting to make noise again. There is a sleeve between the bearings that the inside race of the bearings tightens against when you tighton the spindle knut. I've tightoned the knut to the proper torque. The bearings I used may have been cross referenced to other bearing numbers of the same size. As long as they have the right seals they should work, right? I getting tired of replaceing wheel bearings almost as often as I buy gas. John |
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#2
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The first one that seized up and spun out likely got hot enough to warp
the spindle enough that the new bearings don't seat right or square. It takes very little warp or melt on the seat to make that spacer sleeve put too much stress on one side of the bearing which will fry it fast. My Jeep front hub and spindle acted like that. Spun the first one in the hub. When I was going for the 3rd bearing I changed the spindle and no more issues. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's JOHN D wrote: > > I've replaced wheel bearings on the same rear wheel about 5 times. They only > last a few weeks to a few months. The first failure spun in the hub so I had > to replace the drum/hub. The spindle looks ok. The last time I got another > used hub, first one was new. I was thinking that some internal dimension > was off in the 1st new hub. Its only been about 3 weeks and the bearing is > starting to make noise again. There is a sleeve between the bearings that > the inside race of the bearings tightens against when you tighton the > spindle knut. I've tightoned the knut to the proper torque. The bearings I > used may have been cross referenced to other bearing numbers of the same > size. As long as they have the right seals they should work, right? I > getting tired of replaceing wheel bearings almost as often as I buy gas. > John |
#3
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JOHN D wrote:
>There is a sleeve between the bearings >that the inside race of the bearings >tightens against when you tighton the >spindle knut. I've tightoned the knut >to the proper torque. On some makes, that sleeve is available as a selectable fit in a multitude of sizes. I don't think it is on the Metro, though. Also as a side note, the likelyhood that a mechanic would ever replace a sleeve is virtually nil. That being said, maybe your sleeve has been crushed slightly and is allowing too much sideload on the 2 bearings. Its purpose is to keep the inner races spread apart at the exact specified distance under the force of the spindle nut. I would make sure the spindle and drum bearing surfaces are still smooth/undamaged, then replace the sleeve and 2 new bearings (for the last time!) And replace the nut and stake it in place after torquing. >Im getting tired of replaceing wheel >bearings almost as often as I buy gas. At least you have a Metro. Imagine how often you would have to replace bearings if you had a gas guzzler... Toyota MDT in MO |
#4
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"Mike Romain" > wrote in message ... > The first one that seized up and spun out likely got hot enough to warp > the spindle enough that the new bearings don't seat right or square. > > It takes very little warp or melt on the seat to make that spacer sleeve > put too much stress on one side of the bearing which will fry it fast. > > My Jeep front hub and spindle acted like that. Spun the first one in > the hub. When I was going for the 3rd bearing I changed the spindle and > no more issues. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > ************************************************** *** Thanks for your reply As far as I can tell it didn't spin on the spindle but it must have got pretty hot to loosen it self in the hub. I can't rule out anything at this point. I expect the sleeve lenght should be exactly the same as distance between shoulders in the hub. Maybe my friend the machinist can measure both. Bearings have failed with 2 drums with different sleeves in them so whats left is the spindle. There is still the possibility that the new aftermarket drum and the used junkyard drum are both somehow out of tolerance. Its been apart so many times that there's not much edge left to stake on the nut. It allways tightens to the same spot.. John ************************************************** **** |
#5
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Are the bearings you have been buying made in China?
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#6
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> wrote in message ups.com... > Are the bearings you have been buying made in China? > Of course there made in China. So what? Nobody could be selling a bearing that was such poor quality that it would fail as fast as these have. My local autoparts store would not sell them if they were that bad. There is something causing the failure. The brand name on the box is Coast. The part numbers are 204ff and 205ff. |
#7
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"Of course there made in China. So what? Nobody could be se=ADlling a
bearing that was such poor quality that it would fail as fast as the=ADse have. My local autoparts store would not sell them if they were that =ADbad. There is something causing the failure." So you buy crap parts, then complain when they don't last? Correct? Have you even tried using good ones? |
#8
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> wrote in message ups.com... "Of course there made in China. So what? Nobody could be se*lling a bearing that was such poor quality that it would fail as fast as the*se have. My local autoparts store would not sell them if they were that *bad. There is something causing the failure." So you buy crap parts, then complain when they don't last? Correct? Have you even tried using good ones? bull **** |
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