Engine/Trans removal Toyota 4wd

LarryB wrote:

> If I put the front end on blocks it looks like I only lower it 8 or 9
> inches. Is it more the angle of the lowered truck that helps? If it
> is, it seems like driving the back wheels on to ramps may help also. I
> only have access to a cherry picker.

The angle and the lowered height help a lot more than you would
initially think.

I don't know about putting the rear end up on ramps; though I would
encourage the use of ramps over jackstands, so it might not hurt to try.

I should have also mentioned: if you don't have fender covers, at least
use some old blankets or rugs to protect your fenders and front grill as
you're working.

good luck!
GTr
- -
http://www.preservestoughton.org/

Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know.

Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know.

(LarryB) wrote in message . com>...
> Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know.

Funny you should ask.....

I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod
bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as
a unit. I didn't listen, pulled the motor (royal pain to get it
separated from the trans) and did the work. When it came time to lower
it back in, i worked in vain for nearly a whole day to get the two
mated back togeter. Finally gave up, pulled the trans, mated them
together outside the truck and installed them as a unit back in. Much
easier. When you read to pull it as a unit, believe it. It has to do
with the dowels between the bellhousing and the back of the engine.
Things have to be just right and I never could get that combination of
"just right".
By the way, good luck...

Charlie

(LarryB) wrote in message . com>...
> Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know.

Funny you should ask.....

I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod
bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as
a unit. I didn't listen, pulled the motor (royal pain to get it
separated from the trans) and did the work. When it came time to lower
it back in, i worked in vain for nearly a whole day to get the two
mated back togeter. Finally gave up, pulled the trans, mated them
together outside the truck and installed them as a unit back in. Much
easier. When you read to pull it as a unit, believe it. It has to do
with the dowels between the bellhousing and the back of the engine.
Things have to be just right and I never could get that combination of
"just right".
By the way, good luck...

Charlie

"chestand" > wrote in message
om...
> (LarryB) wrote in message
. com>...
> > Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know.
>
> Funny you should ask.....
>
> I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod
> bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as
> a unit. I didn't listen, pulled the motor (royal pain to get it
> separated from the trans) and did the work. When it came time to lower
> it back in, i worked in vain for nearly a whole day to get the two
> mated back togeter. Finally gave up, pulled the trans, mated them
> together outside the truck and installed them as a unit back in. Much
> easier. When you read to pull it as a unit, believe it. It has to do
> with the dowels between the bellhousing and the back of the engine.
> Things have to be just right and I never could get that combination of
> "just right".
> By the way, good luck...
>
> Charlie

Why did you pull the engine? I changed the rod bearings in my '86 2wd (and
piston rings - had the head off because it was cracked) with the engine in
situ. The pan comes down easily.

"chestand" > wrote in message
om...
> (LarryB) wrote in message
. com>...
> > Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know.
>
> Funny you should ask.....
>
> I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod
> bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as
> a unit. I didn't listen, pulled the motor (royal pain to get it
> separated from the trans) and did the work. When it came time to lower
> it back in, i worked in vain for nearly a whole day to get the two
> mated back togeter. Finally gave up, pulled the trans, mated them
> together outside the truck and installed them as a unit back in. Much
> easier. When you read to pull it as a unit, believe it. It has to do
> with the dowels between the bellhousing and the back of the engine.
> Things have to be just right and I never could get that combination of
> "just right".
> By the way, good luck...
>
> Charlie

Why did you pull the engine? I changed the rod bearings in my '86 2wd (and
piston rings - had the head off because it was cracked) with the engine in
situ. The pan comes down easily.

"Chas Hurst" > wrote in message >...
> "chestand" > wrote in message
> om...
> > (LarryB) wrote in message
> . com>...
> > > Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know.
> >
> > Funny you should ask.....
> >
> > I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod
> > bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as
> > a unit. I didn't listen, pulled the motor (royal pain to get it
> > separated from the trans) and did the work. When it came time to lower
> > it back in, i worked in vain for nearly a whole day to get the two
> > mated back togeter. Finally gave up, pulled the trans, mated them
> > together outside the truck and installed them as a unit back in. Much
> > easier. When you read to pull it as a unit, believe it. It has to do
> > with the dowels between the bellhousing and the back of the engine.
> > Things have to be just right and I never could get that combination of
> > "just right".
> > By the way, good luck...
> >
> > Charlie
>
> Why did you pull the engine? I changed the rod bearings in my '86 2wd (and
> piston rings - had the head off because it was cracked) with the engine in
> situ. The pan comes down easily.


I pulled the engine for a number of reasons. 1. I have a gravel
driveway and don't particularly like lying on my back on the gravel
for an extended period. 2. I didn't know exactly what was causing the
horrible knock from the bottom end and I knew that if I had to pull
the crank (I did by the way), that I'd much rather do it with the
engine pulled and on a stand. And 3. I knew that with the mileage
showing (approx. 200,000) that a clutch change was in order.
P.S. - the ring gap was within factory specs - even with 200,000 miles
on the clock!

"Chas Hurst" > wrote in message >...
> "chestand" > wrote in message
> om...
> > (LarryB) wrote in message
> . com>...
> > > Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know.
> >
> > Funny you should ask.....
> >
> > I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod
> > bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as
> > a unit. I didn't listen, pulled the motor (royal pain to get it
> > separated from the trans) and did the work. When it came time to lower
> > it back in, i worked in vain for nearly a whole day to get the two
> > mated back togeter. Finally gave up, pulled the trans, mated them
> > together outside the truck and installed them as a unit back in. Much
> > easier. When you read to pull it as a unit, believe it. It has to do
> > with the dowels between the bellhousing and the back of the engine.
> > Things have to be just right and I never could get that combination of
> > "just right".
> > By the way, good luck...
> >
> > Charlie
>
> Why did you pull the engine? I changed the rod bearings in my '86 2wd (and
> piston rings - had the head off because it was cracked) with the engine in
> situ. The pan comes down easily.


I pulled the engine for a number of reasons. 1. I have a gravel
driveway and don't particularly like lying on my back on the gravel
for an extended period. 2. I didn't know exactly what was causing the
horrible knock from the bottom end and I knew that if I had to pull
the crank (I did by the way), that I'd much rather do it with the
engine pulled and on a stand. And 3. I knew that with the mileage
showing (approx. 200,000) that a clutch change was in order.
P.S. - the ring gap was within factory specs - even with 200,000 miles
on the clock!

(chestand) wrote in message > Funny you should ask.....
>
> I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod
> bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as
> a unit.

Thanks for the info. I am concerned about pulling them both together
because of the length of the assembly. It looks like the length of the
engine/trans/shift/transfer case is around 4 to 5 feet. The 2wd is
shorter. A standard cherry picker lifts to a height of about 72" and I
was thinking of using a balancer which would lesson that height. I
just don't know it the cherry picker will lift it up high enough.

Did you have a problem with the height or length of the assembly?

Also the motor has 177 k on it and I was thinking of replacing rod and
main bearings. I have seen rebuilding kits available with new pistons,
rings and bearings for about $200 to $300. When you replaced the rod
bearings, did you replace the pistons,main bearings and thrust
bearings? Or do you think channging pistons would be wasted?

TIA
Larry