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#1
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Nobody knows what is wrong with my 99 Dodge Avenger v6
This was the start of my original problem that was previously posted.
My problems started on 2/18/04. I had to have my timing belt replaced, a tune up, front and rear brakes, water pump replaced, spark plugs replaced and wires and a distributor cap. Cost $533.90 in labor and $363.79 for the parts. I then had a rear seal that was supposed to be leaking and was charged by the dealer $40.85 for the diagnosis. I had a transmission service and paid 78.00 which was for the service and the fluid and filter. I had my output speed sensor go out and had to replace it for a charge of $57.77. Car then began to sag and stall when trying to go up a hill or accelerate it would get between 1200-1500 rpm and the rpm guage will flutter and it will jerk and act like it does not want to go and so I took it to the dealer to see what in the hell is going on now and was charged $83.33 to have it put on the computer for a scan. I was told I had the wrong wires in it and the wrong plugs, so I had to buy genuine mopar wires and platinum plugs, that was $126.01 in parts. After that was changed out car still stalling hesitating and wanting to die out and it seems to only do it when the car heats up, so I took the car back to dealer and they kept it two days and stated that the technicians said it was the distributor. While they had it they cleaned throttle body and charged me $376.91 for that. I get the distributor in and it is still doing the same thing so as you can imagine at this point I am I am having the fuel filter replaced today. I don't know what else to do with it. I have practically replaced everything on it. If anyone has had this problems or thinks that they know what it could be please help me. I have spent out close to $2,000 dollars. I was told that it was most likely the EGR Valve so I had that replaced and after they replaced that part the mechanic took it out and it started running rough again and the check engine light came on saying misfire on #3 and #7. The mechanic thought that it needed a fuel filter so he put one on it and it is still acting the same way so I do not know what to do at this point they are thinking electrical or fuel problem anyone have any ideals. They told me that the car is dropping fuel pressure the longer it runs. I am about to lose it _________________ |
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#2
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Probably need a new fuel pump. A different dealer wouldn't hurt either.
LadyGelzer04 wrote: > > This was the start of my original problem that was previously posted. > > My problems started on 2/18/04. I had to have my timing belt replaced, a > tune up, front and rear brakes, water pump replaced, spark plugs replaced > and wires and a distributor cap. Cost $533.90 in labor and $363.79 for the > parts. I then had a rear seal that was supposed to be leaking and was > charged by the dealer $40.85 for the diagnosis. I had a transmission > service and paid 78.00 which was for the service and the fluid and filter. > I had my output speed sensor go out and had to replace it for a charge of > $57.77. Car then began to sag and stall when trying to go up a hill or > accelerate it would get between 1200-1500 rpm and the rpm guage will > flutter and it will jerk and act like it does not want to go and so I took > it to the dealer to see what in the hell is going on now and was charged > $83.33 to have it put on the computer for a scan. I was told I had the > wrong wires in it and the wrong plugs, so I had to buy genuine mopar wires > and platinum plugs, that was $126.01 in parts. After that was changed out > car still stalling hesitating and wanting to die out and it seems to only > do it when the car heats up, so I took the car back to dealer and they > kept it two days and stated that the technicians said it was the > distributor. While they had it they cleaned throttle body and charged me > $376.91 for that. I get the distributor in and it is still doing the same > thing so as you can imagine at this point I am I am having the fuel filter > replaced today. I don't know what else to do with it. I have practically > replaced everything on it. If anyone has had this problems or thinks that > they know what it could be please help me. I have spent out close to > $2,000 dollars. > > I was told that it was most likely the EGR Valve so I had that replaced > and after they replaced that part the mechanic took it out and it started > running rough again and the check engine light came on saying misfire on > #3 and #7. The mechanic thought that it needed a fuel filter so he put one > on it and it is still acting the same way so I do not know what to do at > this point they are thinking electrical or fuel problem anyone have any > ideals. They told me that the car is dropping fuel pressure the longer it > runs. I am about to lose it > _________________ |
#3
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Probably need a new fuel pump. A different dealer wouldn't hurt either.
LadyGelzer04 wrote: > > This was the start of my original problem that was previously posted. > > My problems started on 2/18/04. I had to have my timing belt replaced, a > tune up, front and rear brakes, water pump replaced, spark plugs replaced > and wires and a distributor cap. Cost $533.90 in labor and $363.79 for the > parts. I then had a rear seal that was supposed to be leaking and was > charged by the dealer $40.85 for the diagnosis. I had a transmission > service and paid 78.00 which was for the service and the fluid and filter. > I had my output speed sensor go out and had to replace it for a charge of > $57.77. Car then began to sag and stall when trying to go up a hill or > accelerate it would get between 1200-1500 rpm and the rpm guage will > flutter and it will jerk and act like it does not want to go and so I took > it to the dealer to see what in the hell is going on now and was charged > $83.33 to have it put on the computer for a scan. I was told I had the > wrong wires in it and the wrong plugs, so I had to buy genuine mopar wires > and platinum plugs, that was $126.01 in parts. After that was changed out > car still stalling hesitating and wanting to die out and it seems to only > do it when the car heats up, so I took the car back to dealer and they > kept it two days and stated that the technicians said it was the > distributor. While they had it they cleaned throttle body and charged me > $376.91 for that. I get the distributor in and it is still doing the same > thing so as you can imagine at this point I am I am having the fuel filter > replaced today. I don't know what else to do with it. I have practically > replaced everything on it. If anyone has had this problems or thinks that > they know what it could be please help me. I have spent out close to > $2,000 dollars. > > I was told that it was most likely the EGR Valve so I had that replaced > and after they replaced that part the mechanic took it out and it started > running rough again and the check engine light came on saying misfire on > #3 and #7. The mechanic thought that it needed a fuel filter so he put one > on it and it is still acting the same way so I do not know what to do at > this point they are thinking electrical or fuel problem anyone have any > ideals. They told me that the car is dropping fuel pressure the longer it > runs. I am about to lose it > _________________ |
#4
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Sharon said it first - go to a different dealer. The one you have been
going to is only parts swapping. In MHO they should not be charging you anything if they don't fix anything. They are selling you new and installed parts that you don't need nor did you ask for. At least I would tell them up front that if they do not fix the problem(s) then there will be no money changing hands. It sounds like they have already taken you for a ride and it has not been a cheap one. A '99 should never have had the timing belt replaced in the first place unless you have 110K miles on it. Other than that it may not even have been installed correctly. I don't know anything about the Avenger - does it even have a distributor? Also, if you are having misfire issues with plug #3 and #7 on a 6 cylinder engine then you do have some serious issues. Have a "smart" mechanic, if you can possibly find one, check the PVC valve. The EGR will put codes in your computer. If the computer never stated the EGR had issues then it was prolly not smart to change it. In fact, you may want to consider a lawyer. On second thought, another car would still be cheaper. "LadyGelzer04" > wrote in message lkaboutautos.com... > This was the start of my original problem that was previously posted. > > My problems started on 2/18/04. I had to have my timing belt replaced, a > tune up, front and rear brakes, water pump replaced, spark plugs replaced > and wires and a distributor cap. Cost $533.90 in labor and $363.79 for the > parts. I then had a rear seal that was supposed to be leaking and was > charged by the dealer $40.85 for the diagnosis. I had a transmission > service and paid 78.00 which was for the service and the fluid and filter. > I had my output speed sensor go out and had to replace it for a charge of > $57.77. Car then began to sag and stall when trying to go up a hill or > accelerate it would get between 1200-1500 rpm and the rpm guage will > flutter and it will jerk and act like it does not want to go and so I took > it to the dealer to see what in the hell is going on now and was charged > $83.33 to have it put on the computer for a scan. I was told I had the > wrong wires in it and the wrong plugs, so I had to buy genuine mopar wires > and platinum plugs, that was $126.01 in parts. After that was changed out > car still stalling hesitating and wanting to die out and it seems to only > do it when the car heats up, so I took the car back to dealer and they > kept it two days and stated that the technicians said it was the > distributor. While they had it they cleaned throttle body and charged me > $376.91 for that. I get the distributor in and it is still doing the same > thing so as you can imagine at this point I am I am having the fuel filter > replaced today. I don't know what else to do with it. I have practically > replaced everything on it. If anyone has had this problems or thinks that > they know what it could be please help me. I have spent out close to > $2,000 dollars. > > I was told that it was most likely the EGR Valve so I had that replaced > and after they replaced that part the mechanic took it out and it started > running rough again and the check engine light came on saying misfire on > #3 and #7. The mechanic thought that it needed a fuel filter so he put one > on it and it is still acting the same way so I do not know what to do at > this point they are thinking electrical or fuel problem anyone have any > ideals. They told me that the car is dropping fuel pressure the longer it > runs. I am about to lose it > _________________ > > |
#5
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Sharon said it first - go to a different dealer. The one you have been
going to is only parts swapping. In MHO they should not be charging you anything if they don't fix anything. They are selling you new and installed parts that you don't need nor did you ask for. At least I would tell them up front that if they do not fix the problem(s) then there will be no money changing hands. It sounds like they have already taken you for a ride and it has not been a cheap one. A '99 should never have had the timing belt replaced in the first place unless you have 110K miles on it. Other than that it may not even have been installed correctly. I don't know anything about the Avenger - does it even have a distributor? Also, if you are having misfire issues with plug #3 and #7 on a 6 cylinder engine then you do have some serious issues. Have a "smart" mechanic, if you can possibly find one, check the PVC valve. The EGR will put codes in your computer. If the computer never stated the EGR had issues then it was prolly not smart to change it. In fact, you may want to consider a lawyer. On second thought, another car would still be cheaper. "LadyGelzer04" > wrote in message lkaboutautos.com... > This was the start of my original problem that was previously posted. > > My problems started on 2/18/04. I had to have my timing belt replaced, a > tune up, front and rear brakes, water pump replaced, spark plugs replaced > and wires and a distributor cap. Cost $533.90 in labor and $363.79 for the > parts. I then had a rear seal that was supposed to be leaking and was > charged by the dealer $40.85 for the diagnosis. I had a transmission > service and paid 78.00 which was for the service and the fluid and filter. > I had my output speed sensor go out and had to replace it for a charge of > $57.77. Car then began to sag and stall when trying to go up a hill or > accelerate it would get between 1200-1500 rpm and the rpm guage will > flutter and it will jerk and act like it does not want to go and so I took > it to the dealer to see what in the hell is going on now and was charged > $83.33 to have it put on the computer for a scan. I was told I had the > wrong wires in it and the wrong plugs, so I had to buy genuine mopar wires > and platinum plugs, that was $126.01 in parts. After that was changed out > car still stalling hesitating and wanting to die out and it seems to only > do it when the car heats up, so I took the car back to dealer and they > kept it two days and stated that the technicians said it was the > distributor. While they had it they cleaned throttle body and charged me > $376.91 for that. I get the distributor in and it is still doing the same > thing so as you can imagine at this point I am I am having the fuel filter > replaced today. I don't know what else to do with it. I have practically > replaced everything on it. If anyone has had this problems or thinks that > they know what it could be please help me. I have spent out close to > $2,000 dollars. > > I was told that it was most likely the EGR Valve so I had that replaced > and after they replaced that part the mechanic took it out and it started > running rough again and the check engine light came on saying misfire on > #3 and #7. The mechanic thought that it needed a fuel filter so he put one > on it and it is still acting the same way so I do not know what to do at > this point they are thinking electrical or fuel problem anyone have any > ideals. They told me that the car is dropping fuel pressure the longer it > runs. I am about to lose it > _________________ > > |
#6
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I have no clue about your problem. But I do have this to say:
I agree with both of the other respondents. Only, I would say screw dealers altogether. Unless that car is under warranty they shouldn't be selling you **ANYTHING** because then they can get money. When the car's under warranty, you're not paying for parts (God knows you paid enough for the car after their 100%+ markup), so it's in their best interest to fix it right the first time. As soon as the warranty expires, do your own work or make damned good friends with the parts house guys. In fact, you've got friends here. Most ppl posting problems here get them resolved. Some are just weird strange problems -- I notice a lot of weird problems with Mopars. My 89 Daytona, 90 Daytona, and the family's 92 Grand Voyager all have had their quirks that were cured by the most unlikely means at times. Mostly undocumented means. Anyway, point is, if you don't have any experience we can probably help you -- just keep in mind, many of us are experts and pros, and many of us (myself incl.) are not. My advice for any future cars you purchase: If you take it to any dealer for repair after the warranty expires, you deserve to have your wallet raped. Dealers have a reputation for being cheats for a REASON. I wouldn't even trust most garages like AAMCO or Pep Boys. The best investment you can make, if you haven't made it already, is a complete set of *****QUALITY***** hand tools. Mac and Snap-on seem to have the best reputation, but Craftsman are what my dad swears by (and they've served me well too). He says he has only needed Mac or Snap-On about three times in 30 years, and otherwise he has always used Craftsman. I'd say that's a pretty good deal. Some Husky tools from Home Depot seem to be made by the same shop that makes Craftsman (at least by appearance and feel) so they're probably decent too (never used 'em). Standard 7- or 11- piece screwdriver set, metric wrenches from 4 to 17 mm, SAE wrenches from 1/4 or 1/8 up through 3/4 or 1 inch, an equivalent set of 6- and 12-point sockets, one 1/4 and one 3/8 inch ratchet set, and a torquewrench that will hit 200 ft-lbs or go as low as 40 in-lbs should be enough to get you started. Most of the wrenches and sockets can be had in mostly complete sets for a deal. Maybe a breaker bar and an appropriate socket for your lugnuts, but usually tire places don't rip you off too badly. I'm forgetting something. All of this should run you a few hundred dollars at least, but considering how much you've paid for service (not counting parts), these tools would well have paid for themselves twice over. We got a Craftsman sales ad in the mail a couple days ago - through the 23rd of this month, you can get a closeout deal on a 248-piece socket and wrench set for $161.89 if you're a "club member", or $179.88 otherwise. Club members just get 10% off. You get 3 sizes of ratchet, 153 sockets both deep and shallow well, 26 combo wrenches, and 62 specialty tools (mostly hex keys (allen wrenches) ). A 173-piece set with 95 sockests deep and shallow, 10 wrenches, and 63 specialties for only $99.88 (non member) or $89.89 (member). They have another kit for $49.88, which would probably be more than enough for most of our work, but with only 2 double-open-end wrenches, you'd better get a separate wrench set. For screwdrivers, get the old-fashioned single-piece kind. Those with removable bits are worthless for me. They have a 24-pc set for $24.99 on sale. Slotted, Phillips, and Torx. They don't show any wrench kits by themselves. If you get Craftsman, you won't need to get the "professional" series. The normal line is good enough. I have a few "professional" series tools, but I used them in electrical construction and for what tools I used, I did need the higher quality, but for auto repair, the standard line will do. Just avoid the cheap stuff and the stuff with removable parts (like multi-bit screwdrivers). In addition, a good, *****QUALITY***** repair manual. Some people swear by Haynes, I hate them. Some people swear by Chilton. I prefer them between the two. What I did was contact Chrysler and get the FSM set for my car. $80. About 4 times as thick, in total, as a Chilton; about 7 times as thick as a Haynes. Worth every penny when it came to rebuilding my engine and transmission myself, saving thousands, literally. Plus, I got to do my own inspection and see what damage there was. Nothing beats experience. Get some. And make friends with a mechx who doesn't mind helping you start out. Tools can be expensive, but they're not nearly as expensive as having the someone else do your work for you. Especially when that someone else is a dealer. By all means, if the car's warranty will cover repairs, take it to the dealer, but otherwise do it yourself or get a friend. I know plenty of people who wouldn't mind working on cars in exchange for favors like a lawn-mowing or a nice dinner. Some will even do it for a premium lager :-D HIH, take care, and GL CJ |
#7
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I have no clue about your problem. But I do have this to say:
I agree with both of the other respondents. Only, I would say screw dealers altogether. Unless that car is under warranty they shouldn't be selling you **ANYTHING** because then they can get money. When the car's under warranty, you're not paying for parts (God knows you paid enough for the car after their 100%+ markup), so it's in their best interest to fix it right the first time. As soon as the warranty expires, do your own work or make damned good friends with the parts house guys. In fact, you've got friends here. Most ppl posting problems here get them resolved. Some are just weird strange problems -- I notice a lot of weird problems with Mopars. My 89 Daytona, 90 Daytona, and the family's 92 Grand Voyager all have had their quirks that were cured by the most unlikely means at times. Mostly undocumented means. Anyway, point is, if you don't have any experience we can probably help you -- just keep in mind, many of us are experts and pros, and many of us (myself incl.) are not. My advice for any future cars you purchase: If you take it to any dealer for repair after the warranty expires, you deserve to have your wallet raped. Dealers have a reputation for being cheats for a REASON. I wouldn't even trust most garages like AAMCO or Pep Boys. The best investment you can make, if you haven't made it already, is a complete set of *****QUALITY***** hand tools. Mac and Snap-on seem to have the best reputation, but Craftsman are what my dad swears by (and they've served me well too). He says he has only needed Mac or Snap-On about three times in 30 years, and otherwise he has always used Craftsman. I'd say that's a pretty good deal. Some Husky tools from Home Depot seem to be made by the same shop that makes Craftsman (at least by appearance and feel) so they're probably decent too (never used 'em). Standard 7- or 11- piece screwdriver set, metric wrenches from 4 to 17 mm, SAE wrenches from 1/4 or 1/8 up through 3/4 or 1 inch, an equivalent set of 6- and 12-point sockets, one 1/4 and one 3/8 inch ratchet set, and a torquewrench that will hit 200 ft-lbs or go as low as 40 in-lbs should be enough to get you started. Most of the wrenches and sockets can be had in mostly complete sets for a deal. Maybe a breaker bar and an appropriate socket for your lugnuts, but usually tire places don't rip you off too badly. I'm forgetting something. All of this should run you a few hundred dollars at least, but considering how much you've paid for service (not counting parts), these tools would well have paid for themselves twice over. We got a Craftsman sales ad in the mail a couple days ago - through the 23rd of this month, you can get a closeout deal on a 248-piece socket and wrench set for $161.89 if you're a "club member", or $179.88 otherwise. Club members just get 10% off. You get 3 sizes of ratchet, 153 sockets both deep and shallow well, 26 combo wrenches, and 62 specialty tools (mostly hex keys (allen wrenches) ). A 173-piece set with 95 sockests deep and shallow, 10 wrenches, and 63 specialties for only $99.88 (non member) or $89.89 (member). They have another kit for $49.88, which would probably be more than enough for most of our work, but with only 2 double-open-end wrenches, you'd better get a separate wrench set. For screwdrivers, get the old-fashioned single-piece kind. Those with removable bits are worthless for me. They have a 24-pc set for $24.99 on sale. Slotted, Phillips, and Torx. They don't show any wrench kits by themselves. If you get Craftsman, you won't need to get the "professional" series. The normal line is good enough. I have a few "professional" series tools, but I used them in electrical construction and for what tools I used, I did need the higher quality, but for auto repair, the standard line will do. Just avoid the cheap stuff and the stuff with removable parts (like multi-bit screwdrivers). In addition, a good, *****QUALITY***** repair manual. Some people swear by Haynes, I hate them. Some people swear by Chilton. I prefer them between the two. What I did was contact Chrysler and get the FSM set for my car. $80. About 4 times as thick, in total, as a Chilton; about 7 times as thick as a Haynes. Worth every penny when it came to rebuilding my engine and transmission myself, saving thousands, literally. Plus, I got to do my own inspection and see what damage there was. Nothing beats experience. Get some. And make friends with a mechx who doesn't mind helping you start out. Tools can be expensive, but they're not nearly as expensive as having the someone else do your work for you. Especially when that someone else is a dealer. By all means, if the car's warranty will cover repairs, take it to the dealer, but otherwise do it yourself or get a friend. I know plenty of people who wouldn't mind working on cars in exchange for favors like a lawn-mowing or a nice dinner. Some will even do it for a premium lager :-D HIH, take care, and GL CJ |
#8
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Thanks for all the information. I really appreciate it. It's nice to know
some people are still willing to help just out of the goodness of their hearts. I went and got my car from the dealer and took it to someone else who is willing to do help me out and go over the car with a fine tooth comb. I will keep you posted. |
#9
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Thanks for all the information. I really appreciate it. It's nice to know
some people are still willing to help just out of the goodness of their hearts. I went and got my car from the dealer and took it to someone else who is willing to do help me out and go over the car with a fine tooth comb. I will keep you posted. |
#10
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yes. you did good. keep us posted also. and for goodness sake, pay him
"NOTHING" if he fixes "NOTHING." He can put in an entire engine if he wants but you are only obligated to pay for the piece that fixed the exact problem. If the mechanic puts in $3,000 worth of new parts and a $2.00 part is what fixed the problem, then all you owe is the $2.00 plus the "appropriate" labor. It is "NOT" your problem that the dealer (old one) is stupid and has no clue as to what is wrong. You should "NOT" have to pay for that. You are only obligated to pay for your own stupidity - not theirs (God knows I've paid a lot for my own in the past). If he installs $3,000 worth of parts that do you no good then that is "his" problem and he should eat them - not you. "LadyGelzer04" > wrote in message lkaboutautos.com... > Thanks for all the information. I really appreciate it. It's nice to know > some people are still willing to help just out of the goodness of their > hearts. I went and got my car from the dealer and took it to someone else > who is willing to do help me out and go over the car with a fine tooth > comb. I will keep you posted. |
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