'79 front suspension

We're still at the beginning of the saga of this car, but I have a
couple questions on the front suspension and what we might do next.
(the front brake upgrade is still high on our list...but junior needs
to earn a few more paychecks to buy them)

We replaced the rod and bushings that connect the lower arm to the sway
bar. That was a good, easy fix that my son did himself. (How do we know
how far to tighten this?) However, the car still bangs pretty hard over
gaps in the pavement.

Looks to me like the ball joints need replaced, based on the Chilton's
diagrams that show the grease fitting position as it relates to wear. I
don't have any experience to draw from here... would old ball joints
make a rough ride? Any tips on replacing them, and favorite places to
buy the parts?

I'm also thinking we need to do some easy stuff, such as replace the
sway bar mounts and any other rubber in there.

How do I check if the springs are sprung? The previous owner stuck a
piece of 2x4 in the rear springs. I'm not sure what he was going for,
but I can compress those (just a little) with my hand. What's a good
price for new non-performance springs? (I'm not building a hot-rod.)

Last q...where do I get a throttle cable assembly?

Just a point of interest, it looks like we have the 2.8 V-6, which was
never used again in this car. What's the consensus on this engine?
Junk? Solid? Just OK?

-John O

In article . com>, JohnO wrote:

> Looks to me like the ball joints need replaced, based on the Chilton's
> diagrams that show the grease fitting position as it relates to wear.

Chilton's manuals are crap. They tend to mix all sorts of things up. Does
the '79 even have grease fittings on the ball joints from the factory?

Ball joint wear is generally measured by the free play in the joint.
This means taking the weight off that portion of the suspension and
trying to move the wheel/tire correctly (play in and out) to see if there is
any looseness in the ball joint.

> I
> don't have any experience to draw from here... would old ball joints
> make a rough ride? Any tips on replacing them, and favorite places to
> buy the parts?

Actually it sounds as if the car needs struts/shocks.

> How do I check if the springs are sprung? The previous owner stuck a
> piece of 2x4 in the rear springs. I'm not sure what he was going for,
> but I can compress those (just a little) with my hand. What's a good
> price for new non-performance springs? (I'm not building a hot-rod.)

Sounds like he was trying to make half ass supports for sagging springs.

> > Looks to me like the ball joints need replaced, based on the Chilton's
> > diagrams that show the grease fitting position as it relates to wear.
>
> Chilton's manuals are crap. They tend to mix all sorts of things up. Does
> the '79 even have grease fittings on the ball joints from the factory?

Yeah, I see that now. Some of the engine instrux aren't very clear. I
work for Heathkit, so I am spoiled, but still.

The '79 does have grease fittings.

>
> Ball joint wear is generally measured by the free play in the joint.
> This means taking the weight off that portion of the suspension and
> trying to move the wheel/tire correctly (play in and out) to see if there is
> any looseness in the ball joint.
>
> > I
> > don't have any experience to draw from here... would old ball joints
> > make a rough ride? Any tips on replacing them, and favorite places to
> > buy the parts?
>
> Actually it sounds as if the car needs struts/shocks.

Struts up front. Well, good thing junior has a job. :-) That's one I
don't think we'll install ourselves. I'll buy them somewhere and take
them to a pro.



> > How do I check if the springs are sprung? The previous owner stuck a
> > piece of 2x4 in the rear springs. I'm not sure what he was going for,
> > but I can compress those (just a little) with my hand. What's a good
> > price for new non-performance springs? (I'm not building a hot-rod.)
>
> Sounds like he was trying to make half ass supports for sagging springs.

Yeah, I thought it was something stupid like that.

"JohnO" > wrote:

>
> Struts up front. Well, good thing junior has a job. :-) That's one I
> don't think we'll install ourselves. I'll buy them somewhere and take
> them to a pro.

I suggest you dont... now is as good a time as any to demonstrate how to do
such a job SAFELY.
For crine out loud... you are going to be rebuilding that whole car, you
cant run it to the shop every time it gets a little dangerous.
And that's nowhere near as risky as messing with springs... which I also
recommend he learn how to do right.

Find a local, even a shop mech, who has done it a couple times, have him
come and supervise for a few beers (after!)...


--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!

In article .com>, JohnO wrote:

>> Actually it sounds as if the car needs struts/shocks.
>
> Struts up front. Well, good thing junior has a job. :-) That's one I
> don't think we'll install ourselves. I'll buy them somewhere and take
> them to a pro.

The mustang has struts separate from the springs. It's actually a
straightforward job to do. I've done it on two mustangs, just took care
and attention.

"JohnO" > wrote in news:1145968479.047805.80180
@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

> Just a point of interest, it looks like we have the 2.8 V-6, which was
> never used again in this car. What's the consensus on this engine?
> Junk? Solid? Just OK?

I have a 2.8 in my '75 Mercury Bobcat. It's a dependable, if somewhat
noisy engine. It has solid lifters and has a distinctive clatter. It's
strong enough to move that car, but your son isn't going to be doing any
burnouts with it.

Also, don't expect fabulous gas mileage. 22 highway is about as good as
it gets.

The 2.8 is a popular engine in Europe for swaps into cars like the
Sunbeam, etc. They were originally used in the imported Mercury Capri,
and found their way into Pintos, Mustangs, Capris, and early Rangers. It
was originally an industrial engine made by Volkswagen. Ford bought the
engine, and re-engineered it for use in automobiles. Ford updated it in
the '80s as the 2.9, and again later as the 4.0.

One tip I can give you - the thermostat housing can be a pig to work on.
It's located on the water pump, and has 3 steel bolts threading into an
aluminum shell. I would start looking for a spare, because if you ever
have to change the thermostat, chances are the bolts will snap off,
unless someone was smart enough to use antiseize on them. The part you
want is not the front part of the shell, but the rear part that the bolts
thread into.

>
> > Just a point of interest, it looks like we have the 2.8 V-6, which was
> > never used again in this car. What's the consensus on this engine?
> > Junk? Solid? Just OK?
>
> I have a 2.8 in my '75 Mercury Bobcat. It's a dependable, if somewhat
> noisy engine. It has solid lifters and has a distinctive clatter. It's
> strong enough to move that car, but your son isn't going to be doing any
> burnouts with it.

Just as well, I suppose.

>
> Also, don't expect fabulous gas mileage. 22 highway is about as good as
> it gets.

Well, that sucks. :-)

>
> The 2.8 is a popular engine in Europe for swaps into cars like the
> Sunbeam, etc. They were originally used in the imported Mercury Capri,
> and found their way into Pintos, Mustangs, Capris, and early Rangers. It
> was originally an industrial engine made by Volkswagen. Ford bought the
> engine, and re-engineered it for use in automobiles. Ford updated it in
> the '80s as the 2.9, and again later as the 4.0.
>
> One tip I can give you - the thermostat housing can be a pig to work on.
> It's located on the water pump, and has 3 steel bolts threading into an
> aluminum shell. I would start looking for a spare, because if you ever
> have to change the thermostat, chances are the bolts will snap off,
> unless someone was smart enough to use antiseize on them. The part you
> want is not the front part of the shell, but the rear part that the bolts
> thread into.

Wow, that's really good to know. We almost took a look at that
thermostat, and breaking off bolts would have wrecked our day. So, the
'stat is on top of the pump? A buddy and I guessed it was at the
bottom, and my quick look at a Chiltons led me to believe the same. But
the top is better. Looks like someone once replaced all the coolant
fittings because there's blue sealant at those points. I'll cross my
fingers on the bolts for now, but we'll keep any eye out for a spare
rear shell. Thanks.

-John O

Backyard Mechanic wrote:
> "JohnO" > wrote:
>
> >
> > Struts up front. Well, good thing junior has a job. :-) That's one I
> > don't think we'll install ourselves. I'll buy them somewhere and take
> > them to a pro.
>
> I suggest you dont... now is as good a time as any to demonstrate how to do
> such a job SAFELY.
> For crine out loud... you are going to be rebuilding that whole car, you
> cant run it to the shop every time it gets a little dangerous.
> And that's nowhere near as risky as messing with springs... which I also
> recommend he learn how to do right.
>
> Find a local, even a shop mech, who has done it a couple times, have him
> come and supervise for a few beers (after!)...

OK, a look at the book last night confirms what you're telling me. This
isn't nearly as difficult as I imagined. Looks like we can do the ball
joints, lower control arm bushings, and maybe springs/struts all at the
same time.

Autozone rents (loans?) the tools to remove and install ball joints.
Good idea to do this myself?

-John O

"JohnO" > wrote in news:1146051109.856536.232120
@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

> So, the
> 'stat is on top of the pump?

No, it's on the right lower side. The bottom radiator hose attaches to it.

> > So, the
> > 'stat is on top of the pump?
>
> No, it's on the right lower side. The bottom radiator hose attaches to it.

That was where we guessed. PITA to have to drain the entire system to
replace a $8 part.
;-)

-John O