If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
"goose" > wrote in message ... > Hello all > > I've just changed the tappet cover gasket on my 1986 525e; > I noticed that the clips that go over each rocker arm > (flimsy looking metal thing) each seemed to have a > light-coloured deposit (creamy). > > Any idea what this could be? Condensation? The so called mayanaise. Mike. |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
On Thu, 07 Oct 2004 23:40:17 +0100, Mike G wrote:
> > "goose" > wrote in message > ... >> Hello all >> >> I've just changed the tappet cover gasket on my 1986 525e; I noticed >> that the clips that go over each rocker arm (flimsy looking metal thing) >> each seemed to have a light-coloured deposit (creamy). >> >> Any idea what this could be? > > Condensation? > The so called mayanaise. Actually mayonaise is closer than you might think. Both what you are seeing and mayonaise is just an emulsion of oil and water (well not solely water in mayonaise, but that's beside the point). It suggests to me that the car isn't being driven hard enough, often enough, to bring the engine up to full temperature long enough to boil out moisture that collects in the oil. In non-winter conditions it takes something like 15-20 minutes of 60MPH or better driving to bring everything up to normal running temperaures. Yeah, I know the temp gauge will indicate normal much sooner than that, but that's only the coolant temp in the block. The oil pan and contents aren't at full temp until much later and then only when the engine is working much harder than it does at low speed driving. And once at full running temp it takes a while more to boil any moisture out of the oil. A small amount of moisture in the oil such that you see some emulsion on cooler parts of the engine (unually just found under the valve cover) isn't necessary terribly harmful. However that moisture isn't just water. It also contains some acids from the combustion blow by, which is where the moisture normally comes from. And it's the acids that break down the oil and that's not good. The nicest thing you can do for any engine (other than good maintainance and timely oil changes) is a good 30 minute or so run at highway speeds at least once a week. All of that assumes that you don't have an inexplicable loss of coolant. If you are loosing coolant with no obvious leaks it is possible that it is winding up in the oil. That's not good at all any would require immediate investigation and repair. -- The instructions said to use Windows 98 or better, so I installed RedHat. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
deposit on rocker clips?
Hello all
I've just changed the tappet cover gasket on my 1986 525e; I noticed that the clips that go over each rocker arm (flimsy looking metal thing) each seemed to have a light-coloured deposit (creamy). Any idea what this could be? (Learned *one* important thing tonight: when working at night in the summertime, close the garage doors before you pull off the tappet covers. It took me the best part of an hour to fish out three moths who suicidally flitted around the light hanging over the cylinder head) goose, the *moth* man prophecy |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Mike G wrote:
> "goose" > wrote in message > ... > >>Hello all >> >>I've just changed the tappet cover gasket on my 1986 525e; >>I noticed that the clips that go over each rocker arm >>(flimsy looking metal thing) each seemed to have a >>light-coloured deposit (creamy). >> >>Any idea what this could be? > > > Condensation? > The so called mayanaise. What exactly is it, then? Oil + condensation? Does it possibly indicate engine damage/wear/condition? goose, TIA |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
"goose" > wrote in message ... > Mike G wrote: > > > "goose" > wrote in message > > ... > > > >>Hello all > >> > >>I've just changed the tappet cover gasket on my 1986 525e; > >>I noticed that the clips that go over each rocker arm > >>(flimsy looking metal thing) each seemed to have a > >>light-coloured deposit (creamy). > >> > >>Any idea what this could be? > > > > > > Condensation? > > The so called mayanaise. > > What exactly is it, then? Oil + condensation? Does > it possibly indicate engine damage/wear/condition? Usually indicates the car is not used for long enough or gets hot enough to evaporate the internal condensation that occurs with any engine as it cools down. Look at the outside of an engine after a cold night. It's usually wet. Similar condensation occurs within the engine. Short runs simply emulsify that condensed water with oil to form the mayonaise. Over time it simply builds up. Too much and the oil performance will be affected. I've seen cars so bad that the dipstick only shows creamy emulsified oil. A good long run, with the engine at full temperature will clear it, providing it's not caused by a failed head gasket, or similar. Mike |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Are the cams slightly worn out ? Is the amount of mayonaise rather important
? Was the cover stained inside ? If yes, you've probably a crack in the head. If they don't appear, take care, they could become quickly. It could also be condensation. I don't believe so. Keep watching it at least once a week for several months through the oil opening, especially after long and intense heatings. Put a finger inside, look at it. I Had this problem on my first 316 (1985). When the engine was very_very hot, water drops were sourcing below the head of a bolt. The thing slowly increased for months until I was able to see the water coming out. The head was dismounted at the dealer's, put in a liquid and the crack traced under UV. It was located between a head bolt hole wall and the water cavity. Because of the tight contact due to the pressure of the head bolt against the aluminium, the crack was almost sealed most of the time. I had to replace the head (of course), the camshaft and the crankshaft bearings as well. BMW took it under guaranty albeit the car was 4-year old and the guaranty period over. Good luck "goose" > a écrit dans le message news: ... > Mike G wrote: > > > "goose" > wrote in message > > ... > > > >>Hello all > >> > >>I've just changed the tappet cover gasket on my 1986 525e; > >>I noticed that the clips that go over each rocker arm > >>(flimsy looking metal thing) each seemed to have a > >>light-coloured deposit (creamy). > >> > >>Any idea what this could be? > > > > > > Condensation? > > The so called mayanaise. > > What exactly is it, then? Oil + condensation? Does > it possibly indicate engine damage/wear/condition? > > goose, > TIA ( |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
"Simon Cussonnet" > wrote in message >...
<snipped description of problem: creamy deposit in head> > Are the cams slightly worn out ? yes, very slightly, I believe (due to being very afraid of adjusting with too small a clearance). > Is the amount of mayonaise rather important > ? I dont know, which is why I'm humbly asking assistance :-) > Was the cover stained inside ? no. > If yes, "yes" to which one of the above questions? I've answered "yes", "dont know" and "no" ;-). I suspect that you mean number 3 only. > you've probably a crack in the head. > If they don't appear, take care, they could become quickly. > It could also be condensation. I don't believe so. > Keep watching it at least once a week for several months through the oil > opening, especially after long and intense heatings. Put a finger inside, > look at it. > > I Had this problem on my first 316 (1985). When the engine was very_very > hot, water drops were sourcing below the head of a bolt. > The thing slowly increased for months until I was able to see the water > coming out. > > The head was dismounted at the dealer's, put in a liquid and the crack > traced under UV. It was located between a head bolt hole wall and the water > cavity. > Because of the tight contact due to the pressure of the head bolt against > the aluminium, the crack was almost sealed most of the time. > I had to replace the head (of course), the camshaft and the crankshaft > bearings as well. > BMW took it under guaranty albeit the car was 4-year old and the guaranty > period over. Oh dear! Now you've frightened me. This is an ancient car with no warrantee(sp?) at all; A crack in the head of this car is a death-knell for the entire car. > > Good luck thanks, and thanks for your reply as well, goose |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Jim Levie > wrote in message >...
> On Thu, 07 Oct 2004 23:40:17 +0100, Mike G wrote: > > > > > "goose" > wrote in message > > ... > >> Hello all > >> > >> I've just changed the tappet cover gasket on my 1986 525e; I noticed > >> that the clips that go over each rocker arm (flimsy looking metal thing) > >> each seemed to have a light-coloured deposit (creamy). > >> > >> Any idea what this could be? > > > > Condensation? > > The so called mayanaise. > > Actually mayonaise is closer than you might think. Both what you are > seeing and mayonaise is just an emulsion of oil and water (well not solely > water in mayonaise, but that's beside the point). It suggests to me that > the car isn't being driven hard enough, often enough, to bring the engine > up to full temperature long enough to boil out moisture that collects in > the oil. That could be; I vary rarely drive the car hard and I almost *never* exceed 2000rpm. Once a month (sometimes twice, like this month) I drive down to the coast. Its a 600km trip (one-way), but I generaly keep to around 100km/h - 110km/h, which equates to around 2000rpm - 2200rpm. Is that not hard enough? The car has /very/ long legs, even in auto form and I find that to maintain 3000rpm I've got to keep to a speed of around 165km/h. > > In non-winter conditions it takes something like 15-20 minutes of 60MPH or > better driving to bring everything up to normal running temperaures. Yeah, > I know the temp gauge will indicate normal much sooner than that, but > that's only the coolant temp in the block. The oil pan and contents aren't > at full temp until much later and then only when the engine is working > much harder than it does at low speed driving. And once at full running > temp it takes a while more to boil any moisture out of the oil. > Like I said, this car is geared for very low rpm's. I could possibly keep it in third (or something) at 120km/h (national speed limit), which would keep the rpm's up, but the engine just doesn't feel like it is working when you cruise in third gear at 120km/h (it feels like it is under no strain at all i.e. not working as hard as it would be if you were in final gear). > A small amount of moisture in the oil such that you see some emulsion on > cooler parts of the engine (unually just found under the valve cover) > isn't necessary terribly harmful. However that moisture isn't just water. > It also contains some acids from the combustion blow by, which is where > the moisture normally comes from. And it's the acids that break down the > oil and that's not good. The nicest thing you can do for any engine > (other than good maintainance and timely oil changes) is a good 30 minute > or so run at highway speeds at least once a week. > > All of that assumes that you don't have an inexplicable loss of coolant. Not that I've noticed (check about once a month). > If you are loosing coolant with no obvious leaks it is possible that it is > winding up in the oil. That's not good at all any would require immediate > investigation and repair. <grin>So, you reckon a good, rapid drive to the coast and back on my next trip should do the trick? "But officer, the car *needs* to go that fast, honest!" :-) goose, bail me out, please :-) |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
"Mike G" > wrote in message >...
> "goose" > wrote in message > ... > > Mike G wrote: > > <snipped description of problem> > > > > > > Condensation? > > > The so called mayanaise. > > > > What exactly is it, then? Oil + condensation? Does > > it possibly indicate engine damage/wear/condition? > > Usually indicates the car is not used for long enough or gets hot enough to > evaporate the internal condensation that occurs with any engine as it cools > down. > Look at the outside of an engine after a cold night. It's usually wet. > Similar condensation occurs within the engine. > Short runs simply emulsify that condensed water with oil to form the > mayonaise. I do roughly 20km to work each morning in peak traffic, and 20km back home each evening in peak traffic. Could that be "Short runs"? > Over time it simply builds up. Too much and the oil performance will be > affected. Should I rather change the oil more frequently? > I've seen cars so bad that the dipstick only shows creamy emulsified oil. > A good long run, with the engine at full temperature will clear it, > providing it's not caused by a failed head gasket, or similar. I do long runs once (sometimes twice) a month, but the car never gets above 2200rpm (unless its for a minute or so while I'm climbing a hill). thanks goose, |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
"goose" > wrote in message om... > Jim Levie > wrote in message >... > That could be; I vary rarely drive the car hard and I almost *never* > exceed 2000rpm. Once a month (sometimes twice, like this month) I drive > down to the coast. Its a 600km trip (one-way), but I generaly keep > to around 100km/h - 110km/h, which equates to around 2000rpm - 2200rpm. > > Is that not hard enough? The car has /very/ long legs, even in auto form > and I find that to maintain 3000rpm I've got to keep to a speed of around > 165km/h. No, that is nowhere near hard enough. You will have carbon deposits in your combustion chamber and the mayo you have seen. Wring it out once in a while... get it to where it's indicating normal operating temperature, and drop a gear or two. Get the revs up near the redline and let off the gas to let it engine brake a few times while maintaining the same gear. You might even see a white puff of smoke when you let off, that's burnt carbon (good). You don't need to go fast to do this, only to rev hard. That's what your transmission is for. Do this for 5 or 10 minutes, get things really ticking in there. BMW motors are literally designed to run like this. Once every couple of weeks should be enough. If that was your cracked block in the other post there though, I might have to take that back. You could cause a catastrophic failure of a weakend area by doing the above. Also, I've seen cases where the accumulated carbon was so bad, that the first hard run caused a valve to explode (piece came out) because of the very poor heat transfer caused by the excessive carbon. This happend when she went up a long hill once while in a very rare hurry on a car she never drove hard any other time. So you might want to work up to full heat cycling or perhaps do a wet soak first. -Russ. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|