96 3.3 Dodge just stopped. Cam & crank sensors changed w/ASD. Spark hits one time only at each try. Coil pack changed. Help Me!?

Was running fine during routine shopping. When my wife came out of
store the engine would not crank. Fuel is no problem it has new fuel
pump. I have replaced crank and cam sensors, also plugged in new ASD
relay to no avail. Changed coil pack. When I check the firing at plugs
it hits ONE HEAVY SPARK and NO MORE at each try. Only hit's again after
ignition is turned off and then back on. Please respond with any
suggestion.

wrote:
> Was running fine during routine shopping. When my wife came out of
> store the engine would not crank. Fuel is no problem it has new fuel
> pump. I have replaced crank and cam sensors, also plugged in new ASD
> relay to no avail. Changed coil pack. When I check the firing at plugs
> it hits ONE HEAVY SPARK and NO MORE at each try. Only hit's again after
> ignition is turned off and then back on. Please respond with any
> suggestion. waht sise engine you have??

> wrote in message
ps.com...
> Was running fine during routine shopping. When my wife came out of
> store the engine would not crank.

Starter or starter relay... Not cranking, means not turning...

> Fuel is no problem it has new fuel
> pump. I have replaced crank and cam sensors, also plugged in new ASD
> relay to no avail. Changed coil pack. When I check the firing at plugs
> it hits ONE HEAVY SPARK and NO MORE at each try. Only hit's again after
> ignition is turned off and then back on. Please respond with any
> suggestion.
>

Stop wasting money on all these parts and get the starter and starter relay
tested... Should get you "crank[ing]" again...

> wrote in message
oups.com...
>
> wrote:
> > Was running fine during routine shopping. When my wife came out of
> > store the engine would not crank. Fuel is no problem it has new fuel
> > pump. I have replaced crank and cam sensors, also plugged in new ASD
> > relay to no avail. Changed coil pack. When I check the firing at plugs
> > it hits ONE HEAVY SPARK and NO MORE at each try. Only hit's again after
> > ignition is turned off and then back on. Please respond with any
> > suggestion.

> waht sise engine you have??

Spelling?? I guess you read about as well as you spell. Look in the
subject line..

wrote:
> Was running fine during routine shopping. When my wife came out of
> store the engine would not crank. Fuel is no problem it has new fuel
> pump. I have replaced crank and cam sensors, also plugged in new ASD
> relay to no avail. Changed coil pack. When I check the firing at plugs
> it hits ONE HEAVY SPARK and NO MORE at each try. Only hit's again after
> ignition is turned off and then back on. Please respond with any
> suggestion.

Does the starter turn the engine, or does it only crank a little, then
stop turning ??

Keep in mind any newer vehicle from about 1985 on up, has an ON BOARD
spark/fuel computer, with a variety of sensors- and the only way to
effectively check them all, is with a special diagnostic computer-
which the dealer has- or the better repair garages have. You have to
"scan" the entire system first, to be sure all the sensors are working
properly. Then also do a fuel pump pressure and volume test, and a fuel
pump relay check- (all new cars are fuel injected- so they use an
electric fuel pump usually) Once you eliminate the computer controls
and sensors, THEN you can move on to the basic engine diagnosis.

95% of the time, it's in the computer controls and fuel system. Most
of the time, the problem is electrical or sensors.

Finally, every car should be checked for EXHAUST BACKPRESSURE, by
removing the O2 sensor, and running the car with a pressure tester
screwed into the O2 tap. Many converters come up PLUGGED. My 2002 GM
car with 75,000 miles on it, already had a plugged converter.

Drive with a plugged converter long enough, you burn all the heads off
the exhaust valves- due to excessive engine heat- the exhaust cant' get
out.

just a word to the wise.

my advice, take the car to a shop with diagnostic computer, the days of
the home grown fixer is over for these new cars. The only thing the
average guy can do, is brakes, change oil, trans fluid, filters. When
it comes to a "no run" problem, forgettaboutit...

On 5 Sep 2006 09:31:26 -0700, "duty-honor-country"
> wrote:

>Finally, every car should be checked for EXHAUST BACKPRESSURE, by
>removing the O2 sensor, and running the car with a pressure tester
>screwed into the O2 tap. Many converters come up PLUGGED. My 2002 GM
>car with 75,000 miles on it, already had a plugged converter. <snip>

Now he mysteriously has a 2002 "GM car." When did this happen,
Noodles? Raid another estate sale? Oh, BTW....a plugged converter
usually results from BYPASSING EMISSIONS EQUIPMENT, such as EGR valves
and air pumps, which you advocate doing elsewhere on Usenet...a
Federal crime.

>Drive with a plugged converter long enough, you burn all the heads off
>the exhaust valves- due to excessive engine heat- the exhaust cant' get
>out. <snip>

LMAO! The engine will quit running before that point, dumbbell.
>
>just a word to the wise.
>
>my advice, take the car to a shop with diagnostic computer, the days of
>the home grown fixer is over for these new cars. The only thing the
>average guy can do, is brakes, change oil, trans fluid, filters. When
>it comes to a "no run" problem, forgettaboutit... <snip>

For an idiot like you, Noodles, perhaps. For a smart tech with proper
tools and knowledge, no way.

No it doesn't stop turning - no problem with battery or starter.

It does look like the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is my next step
and I may be forced to have it towed to a dealer for diagnosis. I just
didn't want to be ripped off which none of us can afford.

Your word to the wise concerning EXHAUST BACKPRESSURE is well taken; I
did NOT know that. I'm in agreement with you concerning "gone are the
days". Thanks for all your input

I wasn't sure - was there any advise to me concerning my dilemma?

goto dealer, ask them for the wiring diagram. try to locate all the
sensors realted to the ignitiion system. Check all the connectors. Same
books shows wehre the connectors are. Try to test all the sensors to be
sure youhave working sensors. If you want you can bypass some relays.

Be sure you check all the fuses. Especailly ECM one.


PS: you confirm you have fuel. Relief fuel pressure and check it as you
crank.ifyou get fuel pressure you have no fuleproblem.
wrote:
> I wasn't sure - was there any advise to me concerning my dilemma?

On 5 Sep 2006 11:43:52 -0700, wrote:

>Your word to the wise concerning EXHAUST BACKPRESSURE is well taken; I
>did NOT know that. I'm in agreement with you concerning "gone are the
>days". Thanks for all your input <snip>

"Plugged" converters usually show up on car that are either prodigeous
oil burners (ash then plugs the honycomb) or which have had their
emssions systems tampered with (as all of Charlie Nudo's cars are)
where the platinum substrate has been depleted by running a car too
rich. Of course, old age kills converters, too, but I've seen them
with 200K on them and still working satisfactorily enough to pass the
most stringent smog testing regimen in the US. The key is good engine
and system maintenance.

Not long ago, a doofus nearby in an older Ranger neatly melted his cat
converter by simply unplugging the O² sensor, forcing the fuel system
to run rich in open loop, saying that smog control was "government
interference" with him running his car...about as convoluted a bit of
thinking I've seen in awhile. When told he needed a new converter AND
a smog check, he said not to worry, just put in a spacer and that "Joe
Blow" across town would pass it by putting his car on the
dyno/sniffer. "Joe Blow" is now serving a five year stint in one of
our unluxurous and adventurous state prisons for multiple counts of
fraud and clean air violations.