94 Explorer cranks but no start, details inside Thanks for any help

This problem started a while ago, but would usually start after
letting it sit for at least 8 hours. Now its been a week and I'm
clueless where to start.

Recently replaced EG valve and regulator, new plugs and wires.

has 133k miles. I have a code reader and nothing came up.



Thanks for any help

Jim

On Apr 4, 6:44 pm, J Adams > wrote:
> This problem started a while ago, but would usually start after
> letting it sit for at least 8 hours. Now its been a week and I'm
> clueless where to start.
>
> Recently replaced EG valve and regulator, new plugs and wires.
>
> has 133k miles. I have a code reader and nothing came up.
>
> Thanks for any help
>
> Jim

Sounds very much like the fuel pump relay. Open the relay box on the
passenger side, under the hood. Swap the A/C relay with the fuel pump
relay- each has an unused pair of contacts, and they are opposites so
they will be good as new.

If that doesn't do it, another common problem is the crank position
sensor.
-Paul

On 4 Apr 2007 20:51:43 -0700, "Paul G." > wrote:

>On Apr 4, 6:44 pm, J Adams > wrote:
>> This problem started a while ago, but would usually start after
>> letting it sit for at least 8 hours. Now its been a week and I'm
>> clueless where to start.
>>
>> Recently replaced EG valve and regulator, new plugs and wires.
>>
>> has 133k miles. I have a code reader and nothing came up.
>>
>> Thanks for any help
>>
>> Jim
>

Thanks Paul

>Sounds very much like the fuel pump relay. Open the relay box on the
>passenger side, under the hood. Swap the A/C relay with the fuel pump
>relay- each has an unused pair of contacts, and they are opposites so
>they will be good as new.
>
>If that doesn't do it, another common problem is the crank position
>sensor.

Where is the crank position sensor? Is there a way to test if its bad?

>-Paul

On Thu, 05 Apr 2007 14:48:20 GMT, J Adams > wrote:

>On 4 Apr 2007 20:51:43 -0700, "Paul G." > wrote:
>
>>On Apr 4, 6:44 pm, J Adams > wrote:
>>> This problem started a while ago, but would usually start after
>>> letting it sit for at least 8 hours. Now its been a week and I'm
>>> clueless where to start.
>>>
>>> Recently replaced EG valve and regulator, new plugs and wires.
>>>
>>> has 133k miles. I have a code reader and nothing came up.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any help
>>>
>>> Jim
>>
>
>Thanks Paul
>
>>Sounds very much like the fuel pump relay. Open the relay box on the
>>passenger side, under the hood. Swap the A/C relay with the fuel pump
>>relay- each has an unused pair of contacts, and they are opposites so
>>they will be good as new.
>>
>>If that doesn't do it, another common problem is the crank position
>>sensor.
>
>Where is the crank position sensor? Is there a way to test if its bad?
>
>>-Paul

Does it start if you push down the gas pedal? If so, you have a bad
idle air control valve.

On Apr 5, 6:48 am, J Adams > wrote:

> >Sounds very much like the fuel pump relay. Open the relay box on the
> >passenger side, under the hood. Swap the A/C relay with the fuel pump
> >relay- each has an unused pair of contacts, and they are opposites so
> >they will be good as new.
>
> >If that doesn't do it, another common problem is the crank position
> >sensor.
>
> Where is the crank position sensor? Is there a way to test if its bad?

I don't have personal experience with the crank position sensor, but
if you search this newsgroup you'll find info like this:

Here's some good info from Dr. Bob on the crank position
sensor:

"The crank position sensor is the hall effect sensor pointing to the
front of the crankshaft. The hub behind the front pulley has grooves
machined in it, with one groove missing. the sensor reads each of the
pulses from the grooves to know exactly how far the crankshaft has
turned, and reads the missing groove to re-identify a known position
to reference from.

This allows the ignition and fuel injection systems to make sparks and
fuel at the right time.

There is a 'limp home' mode, as you have discovered, that allows the
engine minimum operating ability so you aren't stranded.

A failed sensor generates an error code, so the diagnosis is fairly
straightforward. If you weren't at a Ford dealer, the $200 is the
result of not having the right code reader. The sensor takes mere
minutes to change."

Here's a description of the problems it causes:

"The crank sensor went out last fall on our '92 XL, too. The car would
suddenly die and wouldn't start again. After about 10 minutes, it
would
start up fine and run like there was nothing wrong (until it would die
again, usually days later). Finally, it would run only poorly (the
"limp home" mode, I guess)."

On Thu, 05 Apr 2007 11:38:38 -0400, Big Shoe
> wrote:

>On Thu, 05 Apr 2007 14:48:20 GMT, J Adams > wrote:
>
>>On 4 Apr 2007 20:51:43 -0700, "Paul G." > wrote:
>>
>>>On Apr 4, 6:44 pm, J Adams > wrote:
>>>> This problem started a while ago, but would usually start after
>>>> letting it sit for at least 8 hours. Now its been a week and I'm
>>>> clueless where to start.
>>>>
>>>> Recently replaced EG valve and regulator, new plugs and wires.
>>>>
>>>> has 133k miles. I have a code reader and nothing came up.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for any help
>>>>
>>>> Jim
>>>
>>
>>Thanks Paul
>>
>>>Sounds very much like the fuel pump relay. Open the relay box on the
>>>passenger side, under the hood. Swap the A/C relay with the fuel pump
>>>relay- each has an unused pair of contacts, and they are opposites so
>>>they will be good as new.
>>>
>>>If that doesn't do it, another common problem is the crank position
>>>sensor.
>>
>>Where is the crank position sensor? Is there a way to test if its bad?
>>
>>>-Paul
>
>Does it start if you push down the gas pedal? If so, you have a bad
>idle air control valve.

I held the gas pedal down and tried to start with no luck. However, a
couple of weeks ago I remember I did that and it started, but not this
time.

On 5 Apr 2007 08:41:01 -0700, "Paul G." > wrote:

>On Apr 5, 6:48 am, J Adams > wrote:
>
>> >Sounds very much like the fuel pump relay. Open the relay box on the
>> >passenger side, under the hood. Swap the A/C relay with the fuel pump
>> >relay- each has an unused pair of contacts, and they are opposites so
>> >they will be good as new.
>>
>> >If that doesn't do it, another common problem is the crank position
>> >sensor.
>>
>> Where is the crank position sensor? Is there a way to test if its bad?
>
Thanks Paul,

Located the sensor, bottom center front (under). I ran the code reader
and nothing came up. I think I interpreted what you wrote correctly.



>I don't have personal experience with the crank position sensor, but
>if you search this newsgroup you'll find info like this:
>
>Here's some good info from Dr. Bob on the crank position
>sensor:
>
>"The crank position sensor is the hall effect sensor pointing to the
>front of the crankshaft. The hub behind the front pulley has grooves
>machined in it, with one groove missing. the sensor reads each of the
>pulses from the grooves to know exactly how far the crankshaft has
>turned, and reads the missing groove to re-identify a known position
>to reference from.
>
>This allows the ignition and fuel injection systems to make sparks and
>fuel at the right time.
>
>There is a 'limp home' mode, as you have discovered, that allows the
>engine minimum operating ability so you aren't stranded.
>
>A failed sensor generates an error code, so the diagnosis is fairly
>straightforward. If you weren't at a Ford dealer, the $200 is the
>result of not having the right code reader. The sensor takes mere
>minutes to change."
>
>Here's a description of the problems it causes:
>
>"The crank sensor went out last fall on our '92 XL, too. The car would
>suddenly die and wouldn't start again. After about 10 minutes, it
>would
>start up fine and run like there was nothing wrong (until it would die
>again, usually days later). Finally, it would run only poorly (the
>"limp home" mode, I guess)."
>

On 4 Apr 2007 20:51:43 -0700, "Paul G." > wrote:

>On Apr 4, 6:44 pm, J Adams > wrote:
>> This problem started a while ago, but would usually start after
>> letting it sit for at least 8 hours. Now its been a week and I'm
>> clueless where to start.
>>
>> Recently replaced EG valve and regulator, new plugs and wires.
>>
>> has 133k miles. I have a code reader and nothing came up.
>>
>> Thanks for any help
>>
>> Jim
>
>Sounds very much like the fuel pump relay. Open the relay box on the
>passenger side, under the hood. Swap the A/C relay with the fuel pump
>relay- each has an unused pair of contacts, and they are opposites so
>they will be good as new.

Swapped the relays and still no start

>If that doesn't do it, another common problem is the crank position
>sensor.
>-Paul

On Apr 5, 8:10 am, J Adams > wrote:
>
> Swapped the relays and still no start
>

OK, down to basics. To start you need:
1. spark
2. proper fuel/air mixture
3. timing
4. compression

At least one of those is missing.

1. Have someone crank it while you check for a spark. Create an 1/8"
gap to ground somehow- old spark plug, nail, screwdriver, whatever.
However, you should have an error code if the ignition system is not
working.

2. Listen near the gas tank while someone turns the key to run. You
should hear the fuel pump run briefly. Next check the fuel rail for
pressure. It runs along the top of both heads, connecting to each fuel
injector. Look for a schraeder valve, like on a tire. Have someone
turn the key to run for a few seconds, then off, and see if there is
pressure in the rail. Needless to say, there is some danger involved
here. Don't be spraying gas all over, smoking, etc. The spec is 35-45
psi, key on, engine off. It is supposed to drop 10 psi when the engine
starts. If you don't hear the fuel pump run and there is no fuel
pressure, you have narrowed it down to the fuel pump or the fuse and
wiring to the pump. There is also a fuel pressure regulator which can
fail, in which case the fuel pressure will be wrong.

3. You should have an error code if you have a crank sensor or other
timing related problem.

4. I'm sure you'd know if you had no compression in all 6 cylinders.
-Paul

On 5 Apr 2007 10:14:09 -0700, "Paul G." > wrote:

>On Apr 5, 8:10 am, J Adams > wrote:
>>
>> Swapped the relays and still no start
>>
>
>OK, down to basics. To start you need:
>1. spark
>2. proper fuel/air mixture
>3. timing
>4. compression
>
>At least one of those is missing.
>
>1. Have someone crank it while you check for a spark. Create an 1/8"
>gap to ground somehow- old spark plug, nail, screwdriver, whatever.
>However, you should have an error code if the ignition system is not
>working.

I checked for spark. Pulled plug, attached plug wire, laid on
alternator, cranked. No spark. Used different plug wire, no spark.

Also, for some reason the code reader doesn't seem to be working.

I had disconnected the battery and reconnected. The alarm kept going
off.

>2. Listen near the gas tank while someone turns the key to run. You
>should hear the fuel pump run briefly. Next check the fuel rail for
>pressure. It runs along the top of both heads, connecting to each fuel
>injector. Look for a schraeder valve, like on a tire. Have someone
>turn the key to run for a few seconds, then off, and see if there is
>pressure in the rail. Needless to say, there is some danger involved
>here. Don't be spraying gas all over, smoking, etc. The spec is 35-45
>psi, key on, engine off. It is supposed to drop 10 psi when the engine
>starts. If you don't hear the fuel pump run and there is no fuel
>pressure, you have narrowed it down to the fuel pump or the fuse and
>wiring to the pump. There is also a fuel pressure regulator which can
>fail, in which case the fuel pressure will be wrong.

Should I be able to smell gas once I removed a plug?

>3. You should have an error code if you have a crank sensor or other
>timing related problem.
>
>4. I'm sure you'd know if you had no compression in all 6 cylinders.
>-Paul
>
>
>
>