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#11
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Must be the fancy gloves!
-- Dana Port Kent, NY 2002 Saturn LW300 93 Jeep YJ 90 Jeep XJ Ltd. --------------- 95 Grand Cherokee Ltd. 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. 82 Cherokee 4dr 76 Cherokee 2dr "L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" > wrote in message ... > Hi Dana, > You need to visit the pit area of a drag race meat, they rebuild a > seven thousand horsepower engine less to time then you're giving Dick: > http://www.nhra.com/ > Ninety percent of the engines I've worked on have always need at > least the spark plug ratchet: http://www.billhughes.com/sparksocket.jpg > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > > Dana Rohleder wrote: >> >> Let's see: >> >> Check gap - 1min >> Pull old plug - 5 min >> Install new plug - 4 min >> >> Total 10 min/plug avg. X 8 plugs = 80 min. Labor rate in my parts >> $50-70/hr, >> so $60 bucks for labor sounds reasonable to me. >> >> I doubt you will be able to do the job yourself in under an hour on an I6 >> let alone the V8 if you haven't done it in 40 years. And that is without >> losing 20 minutes trying to find the damn spark plug wrench that should >> be >> right there in the tool box that your neighbor "borrowed" 2 years ago, >> dropping any wrenches or plugs into god-awful places where the sun never >> shines such as skid pans or those "metal sleeves" you mention, no >> beer/butt >> breaks, no time lost trying to locate the aft plugs or removing shrouds >> and >> chunks of engine that don't even look familiar because they weren't >> around >> 40 years ago, and no breaks to stop for bleeding/first aid. I can't even >> change a fuse any more without 2 days of back pain! >> -- >> Dana >> Port Kent, NY >> >> 2002 Saturn LW300 >> 93 Jeep YJ >> 90 Jeep XJ Ltd. >> --------------- >> 95 Grand Cherokee Ltd. >> 91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. >> 82 Cherokee 4dr >> 76 Cherokee 2dr |
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#12
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If it wasn't for scares, I'd have no skin at all:
http://www.billhughes.com/scares.jpg God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O Dick wrote: > > I forgot about the bleeding part. :-) |
#13
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Bill,
Actually, the proliferation of hoses gave it away more than the valve covers. I believe that the transition to the new small block design was 1966, give or take a year. Earle "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in message ... > Hi Earle, > I believe the engine you're thinking of is probably the 318 using > the 383 block with the irregular shaped valve covers, but I know of the > 318 that topped out a 360" unfortunately I can only find an engine > picture going back to this '67 Plymouth: > http://www.hemmings.com/index.cfm/fu...icle_id/218886 > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > http://www.billhughes.com/ > > Earle Horton wrote: > > > > That is not a 1957 318". I don't even have to look in the book for that > > one. > > > > Earle |
#14
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The "new" 318 came out in 1967
"Earle Horton" > wrote in message news:1120361330.ec78b60b4d77110a8a0a4076fb72d709@t eranews... > Bill, > > Actually, the proliferation of hoses gave it away more than the valve > covers. I believe that the transition to the new small block design was > 1966, give or take a year. > > Earle > > "L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in message > ... >> Hi Earle, >> I believe the engine you're thinking of is probably the 318 using >> the 383 block with the irregular shaped valve covers, but I know of the >> 318 that topped out a 360" unfortunately I can only find an engine >> picture going back to this '67 Plymouth: >> > http://www.hemmings.com/index.cfm/fu...icle_id/218886 >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O >> http://www.billhughes.com/ >> >> Earle Horton wrote: >> > >> > That is not a 1957 318". I don't even have to look in the book for >> > that >> > one. >> > >> > Earle > > |
#15
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The metal sleeves are heat shielding and keep the plug wires from move it
side to side. You should have changed the plugs every 30K (my opinion). You need to get a new set of wires, distributor cap and a rotor too. Just wiggle the wire until it comes free, use a plug wrench with several extensions and universal joints. If they are OEM plugs they will be a ******* to remove the factory always over tightens them, you might even break the porcelain but no biggy. -- Coasty SEMPAR PARATUS (ALWAYS READY) Remove The SPOOGE To Reply "Dick" <LeadWinger> wrote in message ... > It has probably been 40 years since I have changed plugs on one of my > vehicles. Primarily because when I was working I never kept a car > long enough for it to need new plugs. My '93 JGC V-8 has 90,000 > miles, and it is time for new ones. I thought I would just do it > myself so I bought a set of plugs. Then I had second thoughts and > checked with a couple of independent shops, and they both wanted $60 > just for the labor! The Jeep dealer wanted even more! Am I missing > something here? > > I know on my '67 GTO you had to put it on a hoist, remove the front > wheels, and go in through the wheel wells. The JGC looks pretty easy. > Maybe the air cleaner tube needs to come off, but other than that, I > can't see why it would cost $60 to remove and install 8 spark plugs. > > I see that there are little metal sleeves around each plug, and the > plastic cap has a ridge that kind of covers the sleeve. Is it OK to > pull on the ridge to remove the plug wires? Or do you need a special > puller? Can you just leave the metal sleeve in place and take the > plug out through it? Thanks. > > Dick |
#16
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Thanks. Everything was changed at the Jeep dealer at 64,000. A
little past the 60,000 mile point. At 90,000, only the plugs and air cleaner are scheduled for change. The next major replacement point is 120,000 miles. Do you know if the metal sleeves can stay in place when you remove the plugs? Dick On Sun, 3 Jul 2005 06:20:33 -0400, "Coasty" > wrote: >The metal sleeves are heat shielding and keep the plug wires from move it >side to side. You should have changed the plugs every 30K (my opinion). >You need to get a new set of wires, distributor cap and a rotor too. Just >wiggle the wire until it comes free, use a plug wrench with several >extensions and universal joints. If they are OEM plugs they will be a >******* to remove the factory always over tightens them, you might even >break the porcelain but no biggy. |
#17
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Don't forget to flush the transmission, unless you want to change
it: http://www.billhughes.com/lubeSchedule.pdf God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O Dick wrote: > > Thanks. Everything was changed at the Jeep dealer at 64,000. A > little past the 60,000 mile point. At 90,000, only the plugs and air > cleaner are scheduled for change. The next major replacement point is > 120,000 miles. Do you know if the metal sleeves can stay in place > when you remove the plugs? > > Dick |
#18
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Got that done too!
On Sun, 03 Jul 2005 12:28:11 -0700, L.W.(ßill) Hughes III > wrote: > Don't forget to flush the transmission, unless you want to change >it: http://www.billhughes.com/lubeSchedule.pdf > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > >Dick wrote: >> >> Thanks. Everything was changed at the Jeep dealer at 64,000. A >> little past the 60,000 mile point. At 90,000, only the plugs and air >> cleaner are scheduled for change. The next major replacement point is >> 120,000 miles. Do you know if the metal sleeves can stay in place >> when you remove the plugs? >> >> Dick |
#19
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I figured you didn't back at sixty, or the transmission was
exchanged at that mileage. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O http://www.billhughes.com/ Dick wrote: > > Got that done too! |
#20
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Except for being a little late sometimes, I have had everything
required by the maintenance schedule done as specified. I did use an ASE certified transmission shop for the transmission, transfer case and differentials at 30K and 65K as they were about 20% cheaper than the Jeep dealer. Other than that, all maintenance has been done at the Jeep dealer. I figure this Jeep has to last as long as I do, so I better take care of it. :-) Dick On Sun, 03 Jul 2005 13:55:41 -0700, L.W.(ßill) Hughes III > wrote: > I figured you didn't back at sixty, or the transmission was >exchanged at that mileage. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O http://www.billhughes.com/ > >Dick wrote: >> >> Got that done too! |
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